E46 Fanatics Forum banner
41 - 48 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Okey if I want to do it myself its just a normal pressure gauge with a schrader valve connection?
It's a screw on connection not the clamp on types you get for tyre pressure. The internals of the tube and gauge are also rated for corrosive fluids hence why when you see the kits they're quite a bit more expensive than a tyre inflation gun. Being that you're in Sweden then unless it's a tool you're going to get lots of use out of I'd say a quick trip to a friendly mechanic would be the easiest solution or wait a few weeks for a cheapo to turn up from China via fleabay/Amazon etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I have now smoketested for leaks, i pushed the smoke through the air intake boot. No leaks found.

I also replaced the grommets but decided to degrease around the engine so im waiting for it to dry.

I checked the coolant expansion tank and discovered it was no visible coolant in it.
I had a coolant leak like 2 years ago after i changed the thermostat but fixed it then, the engine temp was normal when i drove it
 

·
Registered
2002 330ci auto
Joined
·
807 Posts
I have now smoketested for leaks, i pushed the smoke through the air intake boot. No leaks found.

I also replaced the grommets but decided to degrease around the engine so im waiting for it to dry.

I checked the coolant expansion tank and discovered it was no visible coolant in it.
I had a coolant leak like 2 years ago after i changed the thermostat but fixed it then, the engine temp was normal when i drove it
Smoke doesn't travel from the air intake boot into the intake system very easily, the throttle body and iacv block a lot of the smoke coming through. I'd recommend you do another smoke test through the brake booster vacuum hose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
UPDATE

I started the car and let it idle to op temp and fuel trims seems fine around +- 3, i rev it to around 2500rpm and hold it there for about 30 secs and fueltrims are then around 6-10, shouldnt they drop to 0 after the initial rev?

After a while i saw smoking coming from the engine bay, this time not from the same spot as before, now its coming from the O2 sensor 1 bank 1 and I can se oil "bubbling" up from the top of the o2 sensor, like where the wires go.... wtf is my car doing?
 

·
Registered
2002 330ci auto
Joined
·
807 Posts
UPDATE

I started the car and let it idle to op temp and fuel trims seems fine around +- 3, i rev it to around 2500rpm and hold it there for about 30 secs and fueltrims are then around 6-10, shouldnt they drop to 0 after the initial rev?

After a while i saw smoking coming from the engine bay, this time not from the same spot as before, now its coming from the O2 sensor 1 bank 1 and I can se oil "bubbling" up from the top of the o2 sensor, like where the wires go.... wtf is my car doing?
Probably oil from the vcg no? Wicking it's way down the o2 sensor wiring perhaps.

What fuel do you use? Is it E10?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
The rear of the VC oil leak could easily be finding it's way down to the O2 sensor. If however the area around the O2 sensor is totally dry then I'd pull the O2 sensor and see if it's oily or not. If you have a sooted up or oily O2 then it'll read wrong and make the ECU feed the incorrect amount of fuel to the engine.

Don't stress yourself as you end up jumping down rabbit holes that can be a waste of time. Take things logically from the basics upwards. Redo the smoke test via the brake booster hose to ensure you have no air leaks, get the fuel pressure checked to ensure correct PSI for injectors, check the O2 sensor isn't oily/sooty.
Depending on the fuel used, the time the vehicle sits around unused and the mileage it's covered plus just the age of the vehicle then once you've covered the basics I'd seriously think about having the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. A poor spray pattern won't necessarily mean the engine runs bad but will mean the ECU has to trim the fuel to account for poor combustion due to poorly atomised fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
The rear of the VC oil leak could easily be finding it's way down to the O2 sensor. If however the area around the O2 sensor is totally dry then I'd pull the O2 sensor and see if it's oily or not. If you have a sooted up or oily O2 then it'll read wrong and make the ECU feed the incorrect amount of fuel to the engine.

Don't stress yourself as you end up jumping down rabbit holes that can be a waste of time. Take things logically from the basics upwards. Redo the smoke test via the brake booster hose to ensure you have no air leaks, get the fuel pressure checked to ensure correct PSI for injectors, check the O2 sensor isn't oily/sooty.
Depending on the fuel used, the time the vehicle sits around unused and the mileage it's covered plus just the age of the vehicle then once you've covered the basics I'd seriously think about having the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. A poor spray pattern won't necessarily mean the engine runs bad but will mean the ECU has to trim the fuel to account for poor combustion due to poorly atomised fuel.
Okey will redo smoketest and fuelpressure test, ive tried looking for pressure testing equipment in my country but only find really expensive ones, i would really like to do everything myself to learn.

I think the fueltrims are acting really weird:
COLDSTART- runs a tiny bit lean +3-5%
HOTIDLE- pretty much 0%
3K RPM hold(30secs) - lean about 8-15%

Now when i let it back to idle after the 3k rpm hold the fuel trims start around -4% and become richer and richer, all the way to -15%
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Okey will redo smoketest and fuelpressure test, ive tried looking for pressure testing equipment in my country but only find really expensive ones, i would really like to do everything myself to learn.

I think the fueltrims are acting really weird:
COLDSTART- runs a tiny bit lean +3-5%
HOTIDLE- pretty much 0%
3K RPM hold(30secs) - lean about 8-15%

Now when i let it back to idle after the 3k rpm hold the fuel trims start around -4% and become richer and richer, all the way to -15%
I understand doing things yourself to learn and understand how your wanting to learn how the vehicle works but if you'd rather not wait X amount of weeks for a tester from China then go to a garage and stand there when they do the test. As I said it's a 5 minute job to attach the gauge if the engines beauty covers are removed. If you stand there and watch you can see the gauge readings so you don't have to take the mechanics word.

The trims do seem odd from my knowledge. Does your scan tool show the O2 sensor readings? As the fuel trims are dictated by the O2 sensor. You can get lazy sensors as they age but a dirty sensor will also feed incorrect info to the ECU. You could check the colour of the spark plug tips but I'm thinking for the small trim amount that they wouldn't really show any overheating etc from the slightly lean condition.
 
41 - 48 of 48 Posts
Top