No point on paying 10x the price for an EWS deleted one when you can do it yourself.
Here's the ms43 tuning thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1082287

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929951

 

Main question was changing from ms42 to ms43 ecu. Ews delete was incidental.

 

The second link I posted is all about that.
In case you didn't know, MS42 can be tuned too.

 

Further question as I think I will see if I can do the upgrade to ms43:

Will I have asc/abs problems? How different are the ms43 ecu versions for the various abs systems?

Garry

 

Looked at Realoem and early 330s had asc. Ms43 for later models is backwards compatible. So I have bought all the bits to do an upgrade. Will document my progress in this thread. May take a few weeks to all arrive. Very committed to keeping this car as I have put a lot of hours into it getting rid of oil leaks etc. Also car is my hobby.

Garry

 

Ms42 to ms43 is not just couple pins repin.

42 got cable tbody
43 got electronic tbody.
That means harness is different and pedal is different. You will need to rewire pedal.
Intake manifolds are different.
Fuel pressure Regulators are different.

Befor start taking your car appart search ms42 to ms43. Plenty of people done it.

In summary probably 6 or 8 new wires and another 10 needs to be switched around. + pedal, + manifold, + tb and other things.

I done it like 3 years ago so don't remember exactly.

Sent from my [device_name] using E46Fanatics mobile app

 

I am aware of what it needs. Done research and spent lots of $s ordering parts. Fuel pressure is a new one though. I will look into it.

 

Same filter and pressure regulator is used right across the e46 range from 318i to 330i according to Realoem. I know it was from memory. Thanks for your help. There is a link to a thread early in this thread that describes what is needed.

 

I guess this entire thread you are just talking to yourself. M54 fuel filter got fuel pressure regulator built in. M52 does not.

 

Not M52 engine. E46 318 body with M54b30 but not fully converted. Sorry but I had documented this elsewhere and had assumed that it was in here. I am also adding to an old thread after learning a lot about what is needed and the state of the engine conversion that was done before I bought it.

 

You should have bought the cheapest ms43 you could find. You could have done the EWS delete yourself. The DME doesn't care if the car is auto or manual. I bought one for $20 and used Daniel's EWS delete file. Post cat delete and sap delete could've been done by yourself too.

 

I got warranty from a ebay seller with a bricks and mortar place that specialises in ecu tuning. Did not want to muck around. Cost was not an issue for me. The auto vs manual may be a problem as ews needs to be wired from the cruise switch on the clutch. I do not yet have this. Car will not start according to threads I have found.

 

Parts are coming in slowly. Just checked that my current injectors are purple for a 330. So company that put the 330 in did not downgrade everything.... Just the manifold and associated fuel mixture gear.

Main items I am waiting is the connector for the fly by wire throttle pedal. Cannot make its 6 wire cable until I get it. I plan to leave the current pedal and throttle cable in place and test with the fly by wire under the bonnet. Will then install when it all works.

Many small BMW items that are discontinued are available from an eBay company in England called pantri_trading_cymru Good prices, range, and cheap shipping. Just slow shipping.

 

Another Option if You Want to stay MS42

I bought the adaptor to connect the 2.8L cable throttle to the 330 manifold when I thought I would stay MS42. I was going to get it and the throttle bored to 69mm.

I am going to upgrade the manifold this weekend and use this until the MS43 ecu turns up.

Will let me check for leaks and test everything before upgrading ecu.

How it looks:

 

Installed Manifold with 2.8 Throttle Adaptor

Only lost one nut, but got the manifold on.

The adaptor stops the wiring harness plastic centre totally mounting. 2 out of 3 is ok. Second pic below. Put the bolt in place for later.

I did not unclip the fuel hose as my Hayes manual suggested.

I have a fairly late model 330 manifold. It had a plastic plug in the hole where the intake air temperature sensor goes. So later models are backwards compatible. Pic 4 is of the plug below.

Pic one is of a connector I want to remember when I change harnesses.

Pic 3 is all but done.

 

Finished the other end of the throttle cable.
Matched 4 wire colours from the two auto connectors I am using.
Had a blue wire that I stripped and used some of the insulator to denote blue wire.
Could not find a larger red wire for its insulation. Used orange and will get some red shrink wrap sometime.

Leaving unwrapped for the moment. I will likely need to shorten the cable when it is working.



If you are not aware of how to disassemble ecu connectors, some pics:

Pic 1 shows the tab to push down as you pull the wire out.
Pic 2 shows the tab on the connector that retains it in the housing.
Pic 3 shows the little tabs that needs to be pulled up to extract the connector.

 

Comparing MS42 to MS43 and also the MS43 engine harness

Started to note down the ecu wiring differences from the research I did on here and also my own documentation.

Pic 1 is my spreadsheet where I documented the ECUs, by connector ID. Included wire colours and signal ID’s. Also where the signal came from.
Green were same, red were different, and bright orange is major difference.
Research done on bmw-planet.net. See pic 2.

Pic 3 has more wires on an eight connector block. I have wrapped green wire about the differences. My car has 2 matching wires and a 2 connector block (pointed at in pic4). Need to research the difference. May be secondary air pump I do not have.

Pic 5 shows an extra wire on the 8 pin connector. Need to see if I am feeding it, or where it comes from.

Major difference between MS42 and MS43 are X60003 which are corrected if you get a new engine wiring harness, adding the pedal wires to MS43 X60004, and...

MS42 X60002 pin 6 D_TXD2 goes to MS43 X60001 pin 3.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Also any advice on the other differences would be terrific.

 

Found one Extra Wire Out

BMW-planet says that the extra wire on the 8 pin connector at location 7 is for the injector relay.

I do not currently use it. Have input wire though. See pic 1.
Pics 2 and 3 are connector for MS42.

Pics 3 and 4 are connector for MS43.

Pic 5 shows that pin 1is used for auto trans (A7000). I am manual so don’t care.

So.... I am not current needing? the wire under ms42. Anyone know if I will have problems under MS43? I can rig it up, but want to be informed.



Update. Opened up new harness and the extra wire at position 7 (that I am not using) splits and goes to one side of every injector plug. WTF! How is my current harness wired!

 

EXtra Wires on non ecu Connector.

Did more research on the extra wires that do not go to the ecu.
Opened up the harness casing ang every one was used by some connector somewhere on the harness.
Put coloured wire on the extra wire and the connector it goes to.
I thought I was using every connector on the old harness...
I will look at the new harness connections tomorrow and see what is different to the old harness.

 

My Findings on Harness Differences

Dug into my current harness and found that the additional wires on the MS43 black eight pin connector connect to the X60003 connector at various pins on my MS42.

The same pins in my new MS43 are empty.
They are meant to be empty on both MS42 and MS42 ECUs according to my mapping of wires. I checked the p/n of my current harness on realoem and it was not found....

So now I need to research the ‘new’ black 8 pin connector’s wiring within the car body...

The extra wire at pin 7 of the MS43’s clear 8 pin connector comes from the injector relay on the body. It is only connected to the injectors. I have a connector there, so may be OK.

My current wiring loom does not have separate wiring to the injectors. The injectors hang off pin 3 and share it with at least the VANOS plug.

I will only upgrade when I think I have it whipped.

My current thinking is to make a body-side harness for the new black 8 pin connector and add it over the top of the current wiring. I can then revert if problems, and also do not need the other side of the connector. I will replace the one on the engine harness with a generic connector.

 

MS43 into 318i Research.

Did the research on the wiring differences:



So essentially the ecu gets the extra sensor info via the instrument cluster.
Will look at making up a new harness for the engine harness black 8 pin connector labelled X6011.

Will need to see if my car has wires at the instrument cluster points or whether I need to get the correct crimp connectors.

Then I hope it will talk correctly to the new MS43 ecu...

 

Made Extra Harness And More Research

Picked up a 6 pin connector and cut the 8 pin off the engine harness, leaving a pigtail in case I wanted to reattach.

Put a rubber grommet into the ecu box. Pic 1 shows how you can get at it.
Pic 2 shows the new harness in the ecu box.
Pic 3 shows the extra connector to the instrument cluster, for my reference if I need it.
All the connections at the other cluster connector were in place. Likely I can get at the 3 wires I want to connect to under the ecu box. Will investigate tomorrow. Cannot see any easy way to access drivers side other than through the vent below the ecu box. Was looking at drilling and grommet on rhd driver’s side.
Pic 4 shows the new connector on the engine harness. I kept the wires in the same pin locations as they were on the original 8 pin connector.



Ok did more research and:

X6011:
Pin 1 already there in ecu box goes directly to ews pin 1.
Pin 2 goes to Fuse30. F30 also goes to my early diagnostic plug pin 16. Also goes to the existing 2 wire connector (it is a green/brown wire) that the larger Pin 1 black starter wire goes to. It is a 2 wire connector in my 318 early car.
Pin 3 goes to cluster pin 13. Cluster pin 13 currently goes to X60004 pin 11. MS43 does not use pin 11, so you must disconnect it from X60004.
Pin 4 goes to cluster pin 2. Cluster pin 2 currently goes to X60004 pin 1.
Pin 5 goes to cluster pin 17. Cluster pin 17 currently goes to X60004 pin 21.
Pin 6 goes to X276. Currently in ecu box and is the starter signal feedback. Could not actually find further reference for X276. But from wiring diagram, you can connect to X60004 pin 2.

So all wires can connect in the ecu box.

I checked these for MS42 and MS43. F30 may change for later years but easy to work out.

 

Connected up all but the two existing wires for X6011. Need to work out how to get under the car side 2 pin plug in the ecu box.

This is how I like to add a wire to an existing wire:



In my example, the existing red wire has a connector on the lhs. I have cut and stripped it at a good location. Strip the wire to be added long, and solder the existing wire (red) source-side to it (yellow). Then solder the connector end of the existing (red) wire on to the longer (yellow) wire. This way you can easily strip all wires and you do not shorten the existing wire.
Then shrink wrap over the connection.

Quick edit.
Will cut the current engine harness and connect to the two starter wires that way. Easy to do and easy enough to reverse if needed.

Waiting on MS43 ecu and the throttle gasket. Should be here early next week.

 

Did some more wiring research and updated post #28. All wires for X6011 can connect in the ecu box.

My wiring harness must be a very early version. My M42 ecu I think is 2.8L E36 or E39.

 

It Lives!

Could not get at the sensor under the middle rear of the intake manifold, so cut wires and joined them onto new loom.

Changed everything over, cutting a connector off the auto power feed connector to put into X60001 pin 3.

Put it all together and started first go! :excited: Pedal works as it should!

Noticed that the oil pressure light was on, so need to check my wiring.

Rechecked the bmw wiring site and I was correct at post 28.

Will change tomorrow, feed the throttle wiring through the firewall where the current throttle cable exits, and all done.

 

Checked continuity of X60004 pin 11 to the oil pressure sender and all good.
Rechecked bmw wiring site and confirmed:
1. X6011 pin 3 goes directly to instrument cluster pin 13, and
2. MS43 does not use X60004 pin 11.

Unplugged pin 11 from the ecu plug and oil pressure light goes out....

 

Changed the throttle. Needed to find a bolt and make a spacer so the pedal mount sat at the right angle.

Drove out my dirt driveway and was spinning the wheels! Seat of pants is a big performance increase.

When I say this, I mean fully converting my car to a M54B30. It was a hybrid 2.8L.

Well worth the effort.

 

I am very happy that it all came together. I did not cover how the spark plug side of the harness was fitted as it was already done. Nothing suspicious in the ecu box. Happy to help if you PM me.

Forgot to add that I did a throttle adaptation reset.
Ie push throttle pedal to max, turn on ignition (do not start), hold for more than ten seconds, turn off ignition, release pedal.

The hole where the throttle cable comes through is square. I put a round grommet in it and fed the new pedal wiring through it.

My new ecu is throwing three errors in that it is expecting dsc when I have asc. Ie cannot find the steering angle sensor. Asc works anyway. The other error is no auto controller. I am now manual, so no real problems.

 

Adjusting Hand/Emergency Brake

—-Wrong Thread, but cannot delete—-
Thought I would explain how the brake adjusts so people are not put off adjusting them.
If someone has adjusted them the wrong way, they can be very stubborn to get going the correct way.
The adjuster is essentially a nut. The part that threads into it is essentially a bolt.
To tighten the brakes, you need to force the ‘bolt’ end out. This is the same as taking a nut off a bolt.
Make sure that your adjuster is oriented the same as mine to use my directions. They can go in the opposite way.
Mark the tighten/loosen directions on the disc.
Added a pic of the Bentley manual directions.