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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello

First of all my sincere apologizes if my English spelling and grammar fails - it is my 3rd language and due to that i am not that strong in it.

Anyway i bought myself recently my first BMW and already having serious issues with repairing it.

After driving around 4500 miles with it problems started to occure. Firstly i noticed that oil lamp started flashing on armature (when motor speed was ~400-600 rpm). After removing oil pan i noticed that guide rail of chain tensioner was in crashed into pieces and lots of them were in oil suction pump. This was solved.

Afterwards took car to specialists who set the timing right.

Now having problems with engine idle fluctuates which is between 600 - 1700 rpm. Called them and asked are they going to solve the situation. ~3 days and no change. :|

Any ideas what might cause it? Did diagnostics also at specialists - there are not any errors in engine electrical system.

I just hope that my darling is going to get fixed soon : (. Been messing around like ~2 months : |

edit: i doubt that i will find any help / suggestions. Mostly thanks to my shitty (technical) English knowledge. But maybe it is worth to try.
 

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Do you have an SES light?
If so what codes?
If not get it scannned, and report back.

It could be as simple as a dirty MAF, a bad ICV, a Vacuum leak cam position sensors.

Pull the codes.

Sent haphazardly from my HTC
 

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Tere! Haha I think I looked at that car :D Glad I didnt buy it!

Yes more info then just idle fluctuations would be nice. That could be caused by a myriad of things.

When you say oil light flashing, was it literally flashing? Or did it come on solid? When it came on was it red or yellow? How long did you drive it like that?
 

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The N42 doesnt really have an ICV. It has an equivalent bit in the manifold but they are less problematic on these engines then on the M52/54
CCV, or a Vac leak could also give these symptoms
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Do you have an SES light?
If so what codes?
If not get it scannned, and report back.

It could be as simple as a dirty MAF, a bad ICV, a Vacuum leak cam position sensors.

Pull the codes.

Sent haphazardly from my HTC
No i do not have a SES light. Vacuum leak is one option.
Tere! Haha I think I looked at that car :D Glad I didnt buy it!

Yes more info then just idle fluctuations would be nice. That could be caused by a myriad of things.

When you say oil light flashing, was it literally flashing? Or did it come on solid? When it came on was it red or yellow? How long did you drive it like that?
Hei. I guess that i could describe you the situation better if i could do that in Estonian.

Anyway, oil light was flashing red. Continuously and very quickly if rpm was around 400-600 (around there). As soon as i hit on accelerator it disappeared. I am pretty sure that it flashed thanks to guide trail plastic pieces. There were a lot of em in oil suction pipe.

Wasn't the best choice that i bought this, but probably going to fix it, or atleast trying to. If we were changing chain tensioner and guide rail we noticed silicon everywhere - which means someone has messed there before us.

Oil lamp does not flash anymore.

Keywords in Estonian, which i have in my mind what might cause a problem: lõdvikud, õhulugeja, leke vaakumivoolikutes, tühikäigumootor, küünlad (kahtlen).

Car is at the service atm. Been there for 3 days and no result yet. Thinking about taking it back and trying to solve the situation my own.
 

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I can kind of understand Estonian but I don't really speak it... But you are right for the most part.

The most likely spots for a leak in a hose (õhulugeja, leke vaakumivoolikutes) would be in the area these diagrams cover:
Crank Case Ventilation
Secondary Air Pump

By küünlad i assume your talking about spark plugs?? That's possible also. You could just change them anyway its pretty cheap maybe 20 euros.

If you want to explain in Estonian I might be able to translate it into English so people here can answer better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yea, spark plugs. United Motors does ask 20 eur per spark plug. Same time eparts does sell BOSCH spark plugs for 9 eur. Unsure if they make that much difference.

Leak in hose could be easily checked. Just pull out the cable and if motor still fluctuates, then the problem must be there. Vacuum pipes? could be checked with breake cleaner? Just spray it everywhere where it takes the air and if situation goes better then the problem is found.

Since i bought the car i have not changed the spark plugs. On eparts website spark plugs look totally different of those which i have on my car. https://www.eparts.ee/catalog/#detail:0242236562_30/tab:3/part_number:12 12 0 141 871/type:10

Problem must be caused by our recent activity, since before changing the chain tensioner and guide rail there was not such kind of issue. Same time i already did check most of the parts i removed previously. Cannot be there.

Camshaft/crankshaft timing must have been done correctly. Since the service i took my car is specialized only on BMW -s and been active since year 2000 or so. So i do trust them and feedback which i found from internet was great. Tomorrow they did promise to call me. Maybe they will gain some progress during the Wednesday.

errors cannot be caused by lambdas either - no faults in diagnostics + it does not take a lot of gas. Before it was like ~7l/100km. Now it is like 6l/100km on freeway.
 

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Bosch Spark Plugs are fine and if you shop around a bit I bet you can get them under 8 euro.

Using brake cleaner, is one way however a smoke test is a bit more effective. This is where you spray smoke over the hoses with the engine running and see if it gets sucked in anywhere.
 

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That would be the Check Engine Light or CEL. Take your car someplace where they can plug it in and read the error codes.

If you can get the codes and post them that would help you out a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Okay. You are right. Then i was right - no SES light : ).

As i did say previously - my car is at the service at the moment, but been there without change since last week. Full diagnostics have been done couple times after removing old errors any of new ones did not show up.

Previously there were 2 errors. Did use Auto Data and got them resolved. One WAS 2782 and other 277F.

277F - crankshaft error.
2782 - camshaft error.

Firstly after chaning guide rail car did not start anymore. There was no spark and fuel pump did not work. Thought that maybe immobilisator caused that but after removing and clearing crankshaft sensor both errors did disappear.

So problems must be technical, not in engine electrical system.

Posted thread because thinking about finding solution my own. Might keep car at service for day or two, but since there has not been much of progress i might just have to pay and it would not get any better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Problem solved. Idle speed is around 600 rpm and does not fluctuate. Great!

Crankcase did get extra air, as i had in my mind previously.

After driving ~15 miles i parked car for shopping. Afterwards car did not want to start. Starter did its job, but car just did not start. Had to press accelerator pedal and works again. But this time not as good as before - check engine light appeared + car vibrated a lot. To me it seemed that some cylinders do not work perfectly.

Well did not pull over. Thought maybe it will change after dirivng awhile. Did drive around 30+ miles - no change. Then pulled over, turned ignition out and back in - everything was fine again. Idle speed 600 rpm and no vibrate.

What does make me to concern is that apperantly car does not start without pressing accelerator pedal. Should i check fuel pump or something?
 
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