BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My car is stalling when idle. I've cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the Oil Separator with all new hoses, cleaned the ICV and removed the broken flap of the DISA until the new one arrives on the mail. I also replaced the lower intake boot, since it was in fact broken on the elbow.

After doing all that the car still stalls, I'm looking into replacing the camshaft sensors, but i thought i would check with you guys to see if there is anything else that i should be looking at first. The issue started after i replaced the Thermostat Housing and the water pump. Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated.

I'm getting the following codes:

P0313
P0300
P1342
P1347
P1349
P1352
P1351
P1085
P0174
P0171
P1083
P0313
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
If you didn't get the new DISA Valve yet and replaced it, don't do anything else till you do. WIthout the flap, you are going to through codes and at times the car will stall at idle. Once you install the new DISA, have the codes reset and see what happens, if it throws any codes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It seems like there might something more to it. I just drove home from work (about 35 min drive) and the car didn't die once. The idle was a little rough but solid just over 500 RPMs.

When it happens, the car feels like it looses power (almost like if one of the pistons wasn't firing) and the automatic transmission takes longer to shift up. Also, the RPMs jump up and down before stalling like if the car was trying to compensate something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
All things that will happen if the DISA Valve is broken, you need to replace it, re-set the codes and see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
didnt look up the codes but do any point to cam position sensors? one or two of those look familiar... (they should be replaced in pairs if you replace them)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
My car had a similar issue recently.. I wasn't as severe and I didn't throw those codes.

Your main problem right now is definitely the disa. With that flap missing its not going to work right, but for now you could also check a few things that you may have over looked like I did. For starters, make sure your battery terminals are correctly installed nice and snug. These cars do weird things when they are loose.

Re check the installation of your intake boots.. I recently didn't tighten the upper boot properly to the middle connector where it meets the lower boot and caused very similar problems like you explained with the car stalling, loss of power, idling issues. Etc

Check your electrical connectors on all sensors for corrosion and contact points. Some times crimping the connectors after cleaning them helps connectivity.

Check your throttle body gasket.

The "f" connector on the upper intake boot. These can crack and cause fuel/idling issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
SlimE46, all other issues/places for him to look at IF the problem continues after installing a new DISA and having the codes reset. It will not correct itself or get much better with a broken DISA even if one of the other things is also a problem. The DISA has to be intact and working first of all since he said it is broken. That's the place to start!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OK, so a quick update. The symptoms kind of disappeared for a few days, then it started doing it again. It would basically stall on idle and be very unstable on low RPMs, then today on the way to work it felt like it was chocking when i tried to accelerate, sounded very rough, and i couldn't go over 25mph. I stopped, tried to to turn it off and on multiple times and then it went back to the previous symptoms, so i drove to work.

Tonight when i tried to drive home it started doing the same thing "choking" and then finally it started stalling more and more until it wouldn't turn on anymore. now the engine turns over but it doesn't start.

I am thinking (hoping) that the crankshaft sensor finally died and was the one that was causing all this issues. I'm going to have someone that has a computer run some tests on it tomorrow to see.

Do you guys have any other ideas on what could be causing this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,963 Posts
^ So instead of reading and doing what everyone has told you to do so far (replace DISA valve/check connections/check your work again), you're just waiting for something else to give before you finally fix it? You want us to rediagnose the same problem again?

Diagnosis: Replace DISA valve, inspect intake track for cracks/tears/leaks, check electrical connections, and report back.

Also, think it's more so your cam shaft sensor than the crank sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I already did all of the above. Took apart everything I had to touch to replace the oil separator; that still didn't change the stalling. I already have the new DISA in place, the only thing that the new DISA did was better the idle when it wasn't stalling, but it didn't stop it from doing so when the symptoms re-appeared.

I'll post an update tomorrow after I run it through the computer.

Thanks for all the replies so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Hmm. Well its kind of hard to tell without actually being there but what I would do is start with basics. Check sparkplugs, fluid levels, connectors, etc. Then I'd move on to big stuff like compression test, computer test, etc... But yes for now get the codes pulled. CHECK EVERYTHING AGAIN. (btw did you check your idle control valve?) and well see what to do from there.

I say to check everything again and again because I can not even begin to explain how many times I've seen expert mechanics, friends, and also my self leave something as simple as a connector not pushed in all the way that will cause a weekend of over thinking, buying unnecessary parts and lots of time and beer wasted in the shop trying to figure it out. I'm sure your problem is something stupid if your car was fine before the water pump and thermostat stuff... Just my 2 cents
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Matter a fact, Isn't the exhaust cam sensor right next to the thermostat on the left hand side? Might be hard to see but check the front side of your motor where the water pump and thermostat are. Take the connectors all the way out, check them, and then push them all the way in to assure they are connected. Also check belt routing while your in there. Some people like to put the belt on the wrong way.... Seen in many times. I'll get back to.you if I can think of anything else.

Can you please explain anything else you did while changing the cooling components? Was it just a straight forward drain, remove/replace and refill or were you doing other things too? I think that's where you need to focus on since the problem started happening there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Wasn't mentioned that he checked them.. I think this has a good chance of being a simple mistake since things were ok before the thermostat and water pump change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,963 Posts
I already did all of the above. Took apart everything I had to touch to replace the oil separator; that still didn't change the stalling. I already have the new DISA in place, the only thing that the new DISA did was better the idle when it wasn't stalling, but it didn't stop it from doing so when the symptoms re-appeared.

I'll post an update tomorrow after I run it through the computer.

Thanks for all the replies so far.
You didn't post that you did anything hence the assumption that you didn't. Sorry, my bad.

I would definitely check your work one more time just to be sure. It's very easy to mess up something very simple and cause a very big problem.

Please clear the codes and then read what comes back on.

I say to check everything again and again because I can not even begin to explain how many times I've seen expert mechanics, friends, and also my self leave something as simple as a connector not pushed in all the way that will cause a weekend of over thinking, buying unnecessary parts and lots of time and beer wasted in the shop trying to figure it out. I'm sure your problem is something stupid if your car was fine before the water pump and thermostat stuff... Just my 2 cents
+1, there have been lots of times I thought I had completely screwed up a job but it turned out that I forgot to plug a connector back in. :facepalm:

We've all been there, it's more common than not.

My biggest oops was when doing my cooling system, I forgot to plug the coolant level sensor back in so when I started the car the light came on and I thought I was about to spend a lot of money. Turned out everything was fine and the connector wasn't plugged in.

Matter a fact, Isn't the exhaust cam sensor right next to the thermostat on the left hand side? Might be hard to see but check the front side of your motor where the water pump and thermostat are. Take the connectors all the way out, check them, and then push them all the way in to assure they are connected. Also check belt routing while your in there. Some people like to put the belt on the wrong way.... Seen in many times. I'll get back to.you if I can think of anything else.
All good things to check, make sure you clear and then read the codes again afterwards. That will really help out in diagnosing things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
OK, so a quick update. The symptoms kind of disappeared for a few days, then it started doing it again. It would basically stall on idle and be very unstable on low RPMs, then today on the way to work it felt like it was chocking when i tried to accelerate, sounded very rough, and i couldn't go over 25mph. I stopped, tried to to turn it off and on multiple times and then it went back to the previous symptoms, so i drove to work.

Tonight when i tried to drive home it started doing the same thing "choking" and then finally it started stalling more and more until it wouldn't turn on anymore. now the engine turns over but it doesn't start.

I am thinking (hoping) that the crankshaft sensor finally died and was the one that was causing all this issues. I'm going to have someone that has a computer run some tests on it tomorrow to see.

Do you guys have any other ideas on what could be causing this?
After reading this again.. If your car is still not starting, take out your spark plugs one by one, clean them and reinstall. You probably fouled them up by trying to start it so many times. Happened to me once and my car wouldn't start for 2 days. When I pulled them out they were still soaked lol.

By the way, on your dash where it shows P,R,N,D is there a little gear looking symbol next to it that's lit up?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top