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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently changed out both front axles on my 330xi. I also changed the bearing assembly on the passenger side axle. We also change the rear lower A-arm bushings.

Since we did the work the traction control light, brake light and I believe ABS light have stayed on. During the axle replacement we had the battery unhooked. Showing no fault codes?

Is there someting I need to reset with the new axles?

Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I looked at all the connectors after the lights didn't go out after the initial drive from hooking the battery back up.

I will check them again. Thanks for the reply!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey all,

My son was home this weekend and I got a chance to look over the wheel speed sensors and everything looks fine. All connections were good and nothing seems out of place.

Any other ideas? Tonight I plan on hooking up an OBDLink to see if it will show any codes since the generic code reader is showing nothing.

Is it possible that the sensors went bad at the same time? Just very odd things happened like this??

Thanks for the help
 

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All connections were good and nothing seems out of place.

Any other ideas?
How did you verify the 'connections were good'? Did you test with a meter? Physical appearance is not a good test for electrical connections.

Since the systems were good before you did the work (correct?), the most likely cause of the errors you are seeing is something you did during the repairs. As markusmarkus stated, check your connections. As a general rule for me, whenever I disconnect an electrical connector, I use electrical contact cleaner when reassembling.

Is it possible that the sensors went bad at the same time? Sure, it's possible but pretty unlikely.
 

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It's definitely going to be an ABS sensor; either a bad connection, it's not properly lined up with the ring, or a sensor itself is bad. Most generic scanners won't get you ABS codes, but the larger units usually can. My local Advance Auto uses one of the larger handheld scanners to check codes for people that shows ABS codes as well as live data. Perhaps one of your local chain stores has one of the larger units. Beyond that, BMWScanner is a great tool to have to scan all the individual modules; it cost like $30 for the cable and software (though the cheap ones usually need two pins soldered together within the cable; pay more to avoid this is you can't solder) and any old laptop with Windows XP can run it. Definitely worth having to pin down specific sensor codes since otherwise you're just wandering in the dark. Good luck with it, hopefully it's something simple :)
 

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How did you verify the 'connections were good'? Did you test with a meter? Physical appearance is not a good test for electrical connections.

Since the systems were good before you did the work (correct?), the most likely cause of the errors you are seeing is something you did during the repairs. As markusmarkus stated, check your connections. As a general rule for me, whenever I disconnect an electrical connector, I use electrical contact cleaner when reassembling.

Is it possible that the sensors went bad at the same time? Sure, it's possible but pretty unlikely.
^ This.

I left the battery + connection loose once and had the same dash lights and other electrical issues.

Sent from my SM-T560NU using E46Fanatics mobile app
 

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Here's a possibility - when you replaced the front passenger side wheel bearings, did you ensure it was pressed in correctly? If you reversed the bearing, the magnetic bits won't line up with your sensor, and could throw the codes you describe...best of luck!
 

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Trifecta lights

Here's a possibility - when you replaced the front passenger side wheel bearings, did you ensure it was pressed in correctly? If you reversed the bearing, the magnetic bits won't line up with your sensor, and could throw the codes you describe...best of luck!
I think this sounds about right. You should also use a multi meter to pin test each sensor. Sometimes just pulling off the harness connector and reattaching it clears up trifecta. But, after axle swap, it just makes sense that something is misaligned, and reversing the bearing would make sense. You also might have some grease that migrated to the ring inside the hub. I've explored way too much tracking down my trifecta to write off the obvious and easy stuff. Especially since you say you are getting a driver side rear sensor fail. Do you have speedo and odo? If so, it is NOT the rear sensor fail.
 

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Here's a possibility - when you replaced the front passenger side wheel bearings, did you ensure it was pressed in correctly? If you reversed the bearing, the magnetic bits won't line up with your sensor, and could throw the codes you describe...best of luck!
They didn't say wheel bearing. The bearing assembly on the passenger side axle is the axle supporting bracket (part no. 31537500850) the axle slides through and is bolted to the oil pan.

Might be crap between the sensor and the wheel bearing seal. Could also be a broken wire if the sensor wire was left attached to the strut when changing the axle. Google for "abs light strut replacement". Happens when the wire gets kinked and breaks internally.
 
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