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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I believe I've had a vacuum leak for a while, but the other symptoms came out of no where. I had driven the car the night before, and it was fine. Then in the morning, I did an aux cable install for my kenwood kvt-516 and removed the glovebox and the install went great.

I went to start the car and the rpm's hopped from 1k to 2k several times then died. The hissing (vacuum leak) seems to have gotten worse.

Anyone have any ideas on what I should check, VANOS or anything like that? Thanks in advance.

Here is a link to how it sounds: http://youtu.be/Pp3Uuxr09F0
 

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I believe I've had a vacuum leak for a while, ...
Find that and take care of it. If it's gotten worse it can cause all kinds of issues, including lousy idle. The most likely spots are the little elbow coming off the lower intake boot, and around the DISA valve.
 

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As above where the boot joins the throttle body and splits off is usually bad, get a block of wood and starve the engine of air (put in front of airflow meter) if it's bad enough it'll carry on running and you will hear where from...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can you hear that it's a vaccum leak?

So do you guys hear what would be a vaccum leak in the video and would that cause what you see in the video as far as the idle issues? Do you think the VANOS has anything to do with my issues?

I believe I've had a vacuum leak for a while, but the other symptoms came out of no where. I had driven the car the night before, and it was fine. Then in the morning, I did an aux cable install for my kenwood kvt-516 and removed the glovebox and the install went great.

I went to start the car and the rpm's hopped from 1k to 2k several times then died. The hissing (vacuum leak) seems to have gotten worse.

Anyone have any ideas on what I should check, VANOS or anything like that? Thanks in advance.

Here is a link to how it sounds: http://youtu.be/Pp3Uuxr09F0
 

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Don't even bother looking for other issues until you fix the vacuum leak. I have that same intake and it makes hissing sounds under normal circumstances so it's hard to tell what's from the intake and what's a leak. Check that elbow in the lower intake boot, and feel around the DISA while the engine is running to feel if there's a leak there. Vacuum leaks too small to even be heard will cause idle and smooth running issues, so don't get yourself into a snipe hunt. Confirm you have no vacuum leaks and then move on from there if fixing any you find doesn't get rid of the problem.
 

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Not likely you VANOS, get this out of your mind until you resolve the simple stuff.

Also not likely your MAF.

Get codes read, check Long Term Fuel Trim values at warm idle. If you do not have an OBDII scan tool, buy one, you WILL need it. Read this - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=967204

Also read the first few link below in my signature. Pretty much everything you need to know in these links. You may need to read them 2-3 times to absorb what you need to know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the replies

I'll try all your suggestion on Fri when I don't have school. Then I'll let you know what happens. I'm going to buy a ODB2 reader today. What do you suggest I get? I'll search through the links, I'm sure there is something here about it.
 

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Search around and see what you can find. I see it is listed on Amazon for $179 free shipping, but it is not fulfilled by Amazon, so unclear how long it will take to get.

Launch also came out with a CRP129 which adds a few items, but not sure unless you need electronic parking brakes, steering angle sensor and oil change indicator clearing it is a must have?

I think I even saw the CReaderVI for about $80 as well somewhere recently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So do you recommend the CReaderVI over the crp 123 or 129? And will these allow me to access the BMW computer like the BMW scan tool?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay, I've got my codes. Got them done at AutoZone, they are as follows:

Okay, I've got my codes. Got them done at AutoZone, they are as follows:

P0313
The pcm has determined that a misfire has occurred with low fuel

P0492
Secondary air injection system isufficient flow bank 2
Damaged air system components probable cause
aas1 - faulty air solenoid valve
aa2. - faulty air system relay

P0420
Catalyst efficiency bank1
Faulty catalytic converter
Probable cause
aa1 rich air/ fuel ratio
aa2 high fuel pressure
aa3 ignition or fuel injector fault.
 

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So do you recommend the CReaderVI over the crp 123 or 129? And will these allow me to access the BMW computer like the BMW scan tool?
Again, ALL generic OBDII tools can read generic codes and "extened" or manufacturer specific codes as long as the manufacturer follows the OBDII standards.

There is not much magic here, ALMOST ALL engine driveability problems are P0XXX codes and you do not need a BMW specific tool for them.

The CRP123/129 will read a lot more and it supports like 32 different manufacturers.

ALL the codes you just pulled were generic and not manufacturer specific. All P0XXX, anything that starts with P0 is a generic code.

You have at least 2 things to worry about.

1. The misfire with low fuel. Not always a low fuel issue, but could be. Might be a fuel pump and filter? See the 2nd link below in my signature.

2. SAP, likely broken vacuum hose along the passenger valve cover and under the rear of the intake. Also the large hose from the SAP pump rots. This also assumes the SAP pump is running.

3. P0420, forget about this for now, this is a red herring and likely a side effect of a different problem. This is an industry problem for ALL manufacturers.

You need to get the Freeze Frame data, this will tell a bit more of the story. The scan tool you used likely supported Freeze Frame data? Maybe you did not know where to find it?

You likely have an O2 sensor that is maybe lazy as well?

The best way to figure out if the O2 sensors are lazy is to finger print them by graph for the first 4-5 minutes on cold start without driving.

See this graph with Bank 1, Sensor 1 lazy, never triggered any codes. Pretty obvious the problem once you see the graph!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm headed to he autoparts store to grab some vaccum line just in case. Does anyone know the size of the vaccum lines for the secondary air system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Okay, update.
I removed the intake book and the DISA. I think the DISA was my problem and the flange giggles and the gasket is all flat. Also the lower intake book has some cracking, but not all the way through. One big question though, when I got the DISA off, the flange was all black, also the inside of the intake manifold was black as well with what looked like carbon deposits. Is this normal or a sign of something else going on?

When I do the DISA out there was a strong fuel smell, not sure if that's normal, or if that's proof of me running lean as my codes state.
As far as the P0492 the issue there is the motor does not run. I removed the pressure tube, started it up on a cold start and no air came out at all. I'll test with a multimeter once I find the specifications.

See the video below:

http://youtu.be/GTcyjMlMct4
 

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Yeah that's how my intake looked like when I took out my DISA. Been meaning to go back and clean some of it up (ideally I'd like to take off the manifold and just get it scrubbed and cleaned. I definitely cleaned the DISA until it was spotless.

Make sure you check to see if the diaphragm is working. That "circular part" of the DISA has a nub with a hole. You want to twist the flap and then cover that hole and let the flap go. The flap should stay without moving as long as you have that hole sealed. If the flap moves and goes back to normal position, your diaphragm is busted and you'll need to get a new DISA (the diaphragm is unfortunately unserviceable)
 
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