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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, took my oil sump off last night to inspect my oil pressure relief valve, and upon removing the circlip and sleeve, the spring is exposed but wont drop from the timing case. The spring can be seen protruding from the bottom but no matter how hard I pull and turn it, it wont move an inch.

Im assuming the piston has melted due to an overheat some 6 months ago, and fixed itself to the spring.

Am i right in assuming the whole thing should drop out if everything is intact?

Any one else been in this situation before? Any help would be greatly appreciated as always

Phil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Dont know if it will help, but the reason I took the sump off in the first place is because I've been seeing low oil pressure and hearing a slight tick upon engine load. Also on cold starts it takes significantly longer to regain pressure, sometimes up to 10 seconds. I believed this to be due to a blockage/seizure in the oil pressure relief valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update: The spring is out, managed to effectively unscrew it, using pliers. Now for the piston, it appears to be quite deformed... Rummaging around now for a tapping/threading set to see if i can tap a thread in for a bolt and pull it out. Any suggestions welcome.

Phil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Spent three hours chipping away at it with chisels and screwdrivers, then blew out all the tiny broken pieces from the oil passages with an air compressor.

For future reference if you've overheated your engine, and then have problems with your oil pressure, this valve could easily have melted and seized, and good luck getting it out.

Phil.
 

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This is very interesting. Relief valves have been known to stick with debris but overheating is a new one.. Pics..? Curious to see the layout. What parts are you replacing to regain the oil relief functionality?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can't be a 100% sure that it was the overheat that caused the valve to stick as I never got a chance to see the whole thing in one piece. It broke into a hundred pieces as it came out, and I can only imagine the extremely hot oil caused the piston to swell and stick in the oil passages, and also caused the plastic to become quite brittle.

I didn't bother taking any pictures of the old parts, because by the time the last pieces was blown out of the oil passages by the air compressor, there were fragments all over the place. I did however take a photo of the new valve. As far as I could tell it was only the piston that was broken, but I replaced the three parts pictured for piece of mind, along with the circlip that holds them in place.

Phil.
 

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Hi! I think I have the similar problem. My oil pressure light (red) turns on during idle. This happens when the engine is already heated up or about 20 minutes of driving. The light goes away when I rev to about 800 RPM. Pressure sensor was changed but still with symptoms described. I assume that this part is the culprit. Do you have the part number of this part? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I dont have the part numbers on me, but they can be found relatively easily through realoem.com, i'll post them later incase you cant find it

I warn you though its not an easy job to change it, however if you have the same engine as me then our idle speed is supposed to be 800rmp. If the engine drops below this speed then its normal for the oil pressure light to illuminate, because the engine isnt turning the oil pump fast enough to generate pressure.

Theres a lot of information on here about low idle speeds, I reccomend you have a read through them if you havent done already.

Hope this helps, Phil.
 
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