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2003 BMW 325i
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
correct crankcase vacuum at idle (~14 mbar, or 5" water column).
I will check tomorrow, but I do remember being able to easily and with no resistance pull off the oil cap when idling. Obviously the car was running rough when I did this, but on my friend's E46 it takes quite a bit of force to remove when idling. He did have an oil-catch can, so I'm not sure if this is related.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Clogged dipstick tube, or worse yet obstructed one could (?) be a cause. Tantamount to an obstructed toilet waste line.

Compression does factor in, however the oil control ring really doesn't play a part in the compression number. That is to say compression testing is not conclusive evidence of strong or weak performing oil control ring.

I'd likely be checking the dipstick and doing a couple of L-M motor flush treatments along with Leichtlauf 5-40 sub 2k oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
These are the steps I followed: took out all dpark plugs, disconnected DME relay, cranked six times on all cylinders, and these are the results(that shoe zi either did the test wrong, or there is something really wrong with my car):
1-190 psi
2-6: 200 psi
Gonna check the dipstick tube. But those are confusing to me. I believe they should be 140-150 psi, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'm going to go ahead and replace the dipstick tube as well as do this:
I'd likely be checking the dipstick and doing a couple of L-M motor flush treatments along with Leichtlauf 5-40 sub 2k oil changes.
I also realize that 140-150 number was for the minimum number and my compression is fine.
 

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To my understanding, new design was only post-production [one of very few by BMW].

May look fine -- but did you blow through it? They'll obstruct internally and anything short of free-flowing an issue. Difficult to clean. New design tube (~$120), smoke testing/repairs of vacuum leaks, several LM Flushes with short oci's plus highway miles pulled my engine from same or similar downward spiral. Currently zero consumption and running great. GL

Edit: Oh, and fresh orings on dipstick and dipstick tube

Edit 2: Part number for the new design dipstick tube is 11437565437. This is the one you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
no harm. This is the older version tube; is this the stock tube for you 2003 car? I thought yours should have the simple single layer tube version.
Yeah mines a bit of a mix. It's got the MS45 and the later version of the SAP, but got some weird older stuff on it too. To my knowledge its an 06/2003 production date, I believe that's right in the middle of when they were changing things.

but did you blow through it?
I blew through the CCV line, heard some bubbling, so I pulled the tube. Had some silicon grease or something on the end from the shop installing the new line, because it was clear. I sprayed brake clean to check and it all came pouring out fine, no sludge came out. Gonna replace it with the updated tube anyway, but I was gonna go with the LM flush route that MrMCar as well as you have mentioned. If that doesn't work guess I'm going with a soak if that doesn't work then I guess I'm in a bit of a pickle.
 

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So you hope it's clear. No, it's time to make sure it's clear or the engine will suck oil and eat it for lunch: at the hose connecting the CCV to the dip tube, remove the end at the CCV, then with the dipstick installed, blow hard into the removed end of the hose and if you hear bubbling then it's not clear.
Hey sapote .can you clarify- when you blow into the tube you should hear bubbling or NOT.
I always thought that bubbling heard means it is thru and thru and path is clear.
I find it easier to remove the Ccv dipstick tube drain line at the dipstick and attach an old hose on there then blow air thru the line to clear it....
 

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Once an M54 engine gets a signifinant oil consumption for whaterver reason, it tends to get worse - because of the oil control rings.
In your situation, you should make sure the primary reason for oil consumption (if other than the oil control rungs having being gradually gunked up) is fixed, then try to clean the rings with oil flush, then perhaps try the O2Pilot mod, etc.

If you suspect a CCV system failure was what initated this, make sure it is working properly now:

  • correct crankcase vacuum at idle (~14 mbar, or 5" water column).
  • not too much oil in the intake side of the CCV system and the air intake itself.
  • oil draining into the dipstick duide tube, and the guide tube allowing this oil to flow down into the oil pan.

Also check if the fuel trims aren't too far off - this should rule out vacuum leaks messing up your mesurements.
Didn't I see that you actually did a piston soak a while ago? Did that actually help with consumption? Not to semi hijack the thread but I'm having the exact same problem as op and want to know if this is worth trying.

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk
 

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Didn't I see that you actually did a piston soak a while ago? Did that actually help with consumption? Not to semi hijack the thread but I'm having the exact same problem as op and want to know if this is worth trying.

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk
I have, it didn't help much, but that engine probably wasn't the best example as it suffered a head gasket failure not long after.

Today, I'd start with LM engine flush rather than piston soak.
 

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Anyone guess why BMW engineer designed the more complicate old version tube with double walls and welded in a small tube just below the O-ring for venting the inner tube (but not the outer tube)? What is the function of the welded vent tube?
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Anyone guess why BMW engineer designed the more complicate old version tube with double walls and welded in a small tube just below the O-ring for venting the inner tube (but not the outer tube)? What is the function of the welded vent tube?
Unfortunately much of the "engineering" behind as to why this part or that is no longer the purview of the engineering staff alone. Very often anymore a team compromised of engineers, platform designers and manufacturing support specialists make up a panel. From there a compromise solution is found to yield a part that most can agree upon and meeting a price-point. :(

Sometimes the compromise is NOT an ideal one and a "revision" of said part comes to fruition.
 

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The design of the first version tube is superior than the updated tube, but the engineers didn’t account for those drivers that drive short distance and low speed, and not everyone is driving on the Autobahn.

The first version is so complicate that I think it costed them 3 to 5 times to make as compared to the updated simple tube.
V1: double and isolated compartments; drilled holes on both tubes then welded on a short small vent tube through the holes but for the inner dipstick tube only and this is not a simple task.
V2: both dipstick and CCV use the same simple tube. So why they didn’t use this simple low cost design in the first place? Because it has a flaw: the oil level on the dipstick can be wrong – lower than reality. Without the small vent hole (just below the rubber O-ring), when you insert the dipstick in the tube, it creates air pressure and push the oil in the tube lower, and reading the oil level lower and owner filled up and over filled.

Just to have the vent hole for the dipstick correct reading, that the engineers had to design and make the double tube first version; just think about those German engineers, and it backfired on them because the old ladies driving slow and short distance trips.

And then some owners in an attempt to solve the mayo clogged drain tube, they drilled many holes through the double tube. Without knowing this would defeat the function of the CCV, because it now suck the oil vapor in the oil pan straight up into the intake manifold instead of separating the oil in the spiral path. Who still have the multi-hole drilled old version tube?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thanks for all the input. Gonna be a few weeks till I can work on it, for now its parked at home. I'll update when I can work on it again.
 
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