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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 05 325i 182997 miles on it.. I know a few of my sensors are messed up cause the airbag light is on the radios changes on its own and the side mirror moves by itself.. but I noticed after about 30+ min of driving the gearbox light comes on. Could be trans fluid needing to be changed ?? Also car overheats when AC is on. But now notice it overheats when off too or when car is still but as soon as I’m driving it’s fine ??? First bmw first car not sure what to do any suggestion ??


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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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12,348 Posts
I would prioritize fixing the problems in this order.
  1. Overheating engine
  2. Transmission light
  3. Airbag
  4. Mirror
  5. Radio
Overheating engine is serious as it can quickly ruin the engine.
Are you only looking at the coolant temperature gauge on the dashboard?
Is the engine electric fan spinning?

Do you have any OBD scan tool or adapter/app?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just looking at the coolant temp on dash. Like I said before it goes to red when ac on was fine without it on but then yesterday and today whether it was on or off it was on red but as soon as I drove it went to middle, I live in Florida and it’s always 90+ out. Also I scan it with the one from autozone and no engine codes came up they said but I was going to buy my own and check it out I actually just made an appointment with firestone to put it on the left and do a inspection so I guess I’ll find out what’s wrong. But here are some pics of the dash I took


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I have a 05 325i 182997 miles on it.. I know a few of my sensors are messed up cause the airbag light is on the radios changes on its own and the side mirror moves by itself.. but I noticed after about 30+ min of driving the gearbox light comes on. Could be trans fluid needing to be changed ?? Also car overheats when AC is on. But now notice it overheats when off too or when car is still but as soon as I’m driving it’s fine ??? First bmw first car not sure what to do any suggestion ??


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This symptom set is descriptive of a failed/failing viscous couple (fan clutch). With the engine at normal operating temp and running, use a folded rag to carefully bring the fan to a stop, then give it a spin in the opposite direction the engine is trying to make it go. It should turn round and go the right way within a full rotation or so, if it spins backwards multiple rotations, then the viscous couple is worn.


THE WAY IT WORKS
The car is moving at 30+ mph and air is forced through the radiator because the car is moving. When the car slows -- stop-n-go traffic, stop cycle -- the viscous material expands due to the heat, and locks the clutch that is built in to physically attach the fan to the pulley that is driven by the serpentine belt. This causes the fan to pull air through the radiator until the car begins moving again when the relatively cool air causes the fan clutch to release so the fan is no longer being driven by the engine, and the cool air is forced again due to the vehicle speed. You are describing the viscous material failing to expand so that the clutch locks to drive the fan when the car is not moving. The thing is, the fan does not need to be connected to the serpentine belt unless the car has stopped moving and airflow through the radiator stops. The resulting heat rise causes the viscous material to expand and engage the clutch that locks the fan to the belt. When the car is moving again, the viscous material contracts and the fan is allowed to float -- it is driven purely by the movement of the viscous material being pushed around by the rotation of the mechanical parts connected to the belt. The idea is that driving the fan with the serpentine belt consumes gasoline at a time -- moving vehicle -- when the fan is not needed. You are describing a condition where the fan is needed but is not being driven. Classic Fan Clutch issue.
 

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I would prioritize fixing the problems in this order.
  1. Overheating engine
  2. Transmission light
  3. Airbag
  4. Mirror
  5. Radio
Overheating engine is serious as it can quickly ruin the engine.
Are you only looking at the coolant temperature gauge on the dashboard?
Is the engine electric fan spinning?

Do you have any OBD scan tool or adapter/app?

I'm not sure I agree with you putting the radio at the bottom of the list. Cranking up the radio solves lots of other noise issues, it's an important item to have.
 

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2003 325i (M54B30 swap)
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If it’s overheated and been in the red even once, let alone multiple times, you need to compression and leak down test before you put any money into it. Sounds to me like a fan issue is causing your overheating, but if your engine has been in the red, especially again multiple times, you may be screwed.

These engines don’t tolerate overheating well, and you don’t wanna throw money at an engine that’s got one foot in the out door. Ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Houston we have a problem 🤦🏻‍♂️if this app allowed me to add pics I would but I’m just going to write everything here that’s on the inspection results

Codes:

P0700trans control system
P0117 engine coolant temp circuit low input
P0732 no info returned
P0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank2
P0420 same as above ^ but bank 1

Dealer codes
10179
10650
10045
10040
10123
52
145
148
80
3

Recommend services

Passenger tire and driver rear tire both finished !

Wheel alignment

Brake pad
2 DLG rotors
Break wear sensor x2


Control arm bush x2
Control arm w bjf x2

Leaking engine oil and p/s fluid

Im over it


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Discussion Starter #14
The brakes and wheel alignment etc not worried about that I want to know how much I’m going to spend on work for those codes especially the trans and engine coolant


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2003 325xi 5spd Manual
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891 Posts
Tranny, you need specific software to read whats goung with it. Balidawg can chime in. Cooling system is easy to DIY...

Cat codes are usually just vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My trans number is 83220024359 that’s a gm right ? And is valvoline max life atf fluid good ? Was going to change the fluid my self


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2003 325i (M54B30 swap)
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I believe that number is for the GM trans. If the sticker you read it off was green, then yes it’s GM. Any Dex VI fluid is fine, make sure to change the filter too. Personally I run Castrol trans max dexron vi, but stressing about fluids is more headache than its worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah it’s green and ok I’m about to search up the filter as well, by any chance you know what size it is so I can get the right set of tools


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Discussion Starter #20
Also I got Mobil 1 for the oil change so if I use that and then Castrol or valvoline would that have a bad affect or not


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