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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I am planning out the solution to a problem I ran into quite a while ago. Quite honestly it's all my fault for not informing myself well enough. On the other hand, I hip-checked a deer and need to purchase some new headlights ASAP.

My problem: In my haste, I bought some Projector46s from Umnitza, bad idea. So I went from having bi-xenons to having not high beams and the halogen angel eyes that I got with the headlights don't even work. At this point I have decided to forgo angel eyes all together. It's way too much of a hassle at this point. Therefore, priority number one is getting my high beams working again.

My solution: The first proposed solution to my problem was the fact that, and I quote, "most people don't use their high beams anyway. It's not like you actually need them. But for the sake of argument, lets just say you have to have them..." The conversation went downhill from there.

My solution which I feel to be much better is as follows:

On my old headlights, I still have the original ballasts as well as the original bi-xenon projectors. Everything is in working condition. The only reason I absolutely had to get new headlights is because the housing for the headlights has a quarter size hole in the top where moisture can get in.

On the p46s I have FXR xenon projectors that function just fine but terribly ugly halogen flash to pass bulbs. I also have ballasts that work just fine for the p46 xenon set up.

My idea is to take steps straight from this DIY http://e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=895209&highlight=fxr+retrofit
but without having to buy any new equipment. I want to use my original bi-xenon projectors for my low and high beams. I then want to take the FXR projectors currently installed in the low beam section and move them to the flash to pass section of the headlight. This would effectively give a dual (quad) projector set up.

As far as everything running smoothly, I believe that if I wire up the original projectors using the original ballasts then they should run smoothly. Also, If I hook up the FXR projectors with the aftermarket ballasts that came with my p46s that run without any errors, then they should run smoothly as my flash to pass projectors.

****Question Time****

1st question- with my limited knowledge of headlights and the need for ballasts, I understand that they are required to tell my cars computer how much voltage to give to the lights to make them run properly and also tell my car that its ok to draw power. Is all my understanding of ballasts correct?

Also, am I missing any possible problem areas with running this many ballasts in my car?

2nd question- Can anyone tell me how difficult it will be to wire up this set up? Quite honestly, dealing with the electronics in my car is what scares me the most. I am willing to give it a go though.

3rd question- can anyone give me any pointers as to what pieces to use to retrofit my lights? I've seen places where people use silicone rings (possibly to keep out moisture) but I have no idea what to use. I have been contemplating getting in contact with the retrofit source but I wanted to get some feedback here first. Again- I would like to not spend any more money. Therefore, the more I can do myself the better.

4th question- is it ok to paint the exterior of the projector housings? The shiny chrome film that covers the plastic piece around the projector got accidentally rubbed of a little by myself trying to wipe things down after getting a little moisture in the lights. If this is possible, I would love to add some flare of color to my car coloring them a bit. Just something different.

THANK YOU for any help in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
u need the morimoto h1 kit and dont forget some 100m rubber housing caps! wiring is insanely difficult imo
Why is that necessary though? I have all the original parts from my oem bi-xenon projectors. Is it not possible to just combine the two sets of hardware into the same headlight housing?

It seems like if I just put both sets of projectors in the same assembly, the wiring would be separate and shouldn't cause any issue.

I'm just trying to get enough information to understand why it won't work, shouldn't work or should work.

By the way, thank you for responding!
 

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So I went from having bi-xenons to having not high beams
I'm pretty sure your missing some wiring to trigger the FX-R solenoid for your high beam...


Q: Also, am I missing any possible problem areas with running this many ballasts in my car?

A: As long as you wire it correctly, it should be a problem.


Q: 2nd question- Can anyone tell me how difficult it will be to wire up this set up? Quite honestly, dealing with the electronics in my car is what scares me the most. I am willing to give it a go though.

A: I suggest you read up more. It will be daunting if you don't understand or have no clue what you're doing. Research on how your OEM wiring is setup and what kind of relay harness you would need.


Q: 3rd question- can anyone give me any pointers as to what pieces to use to retrofit my lights? I've seen places where people use silicone rings (possibly to keep out moisture) but I have no idea what to use. I have been contemplating getting in contact with the retrofit source but I wanted to get some feedback here first. Again- I would like to not spend any more money. Therefore, the more I can do myself the better.

A: If your asking how to mount the projectors to the frame you can either use JB Weld (or similar gule/expoxy) or use screws and hardware (http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/sho...nting-Method-(with-Rotational-Adj-Capability))

You have a pre-facelift coupe? If so, you don't need "silicone rings" to seal your headlight since they just come apart without baking them.



Q: 4th question- is it ok to paint the exterior of the projector housings? The shiny chrome film that covers the plastic piece around the projector got accidentally rubbed of a little by myself trying to wipe things down after getting a little moisture in the lights. If this is possible, I would love to add some flare of color to my car coloring them a bit. Just something different.

A: Yes, you can paint the shroud.


My .02 cents. Just keep the FX-R in it's current location and retrofit your OEM projectors to the inner halogen slot.
 

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You said there was a hole in your housing letting moisture in the original headlight.
I would plastic weld the hole and any parts back up. Shouldn't cost anything and plastic welding is very easy. Motorcycle fairings are repaired this way. I welded my brackets back on to my broken headlight and have added patches in fairings where the street rubbed through. Then seal the weld up with some black epoxy or JB weld..or don't.....it's probably not necessary. You can fix that housing.

You can also JB weld a patch in the hole in the housing or just JB weld whatever's broken and get your originals back to working. Your over complicating this.

If your interested in fixing the original housing let me know.

Buy a new housing.....get a halogen housing. I think they are the same as projector, but much less expensive. Or salvage yard headlight, like pull apart
Salvage yard that doesn't care which headlight it is ..all the prices all the same for all headlights removed from their cars

The shroud.....vacuum deposited aluminum is the stuff that came off. It is also transparent from the back side. When the finish fully removed , the shroud is clear plastic. Looks kind of cool with all the chrome removed. Gives it a mechanical look. Sure you can paint them.....the effects.....I don't know because the shroud let's light through, if there is any to get through. High temp paint though as the the parts get hot. I rubbed my shroud paint off to see what it looked like.....and replaced it with a used one. Then experimented with it to figure out how to clean it. Best not to touch it at all. Microfiber did ok.
When handled in with a plastic ziplock. The paint won't come off.

I held the clear one up to the housing to see what it would look like. I liked the way it showed everything. And it really wasn't all that different form what the original reflected anyway.

The p46.......they fit very well into the mtech or m3 bumpers fog light housings. Perfect fit. If you have either one of those bumpers the p46 screw right onto the back and create a new set of headlights where the fog lights were. My next light upgrade.
The balasts being 35 watt with no brights are perfect for that. To me it looks weird on the e46 with side by side projectors.......and projectors for flashing pass lights. Overkill. Because unlike brights. Who uses the passing lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm pretty sure your missing some wiring to trigger the FX-R solenoid for your high beam...


Q: Also, am I missing any possible problem areas with running this many ballasts in my car?

A: As long as you wire it correctly, it should be a problem.


Q: 2nd question- Can anyone tell me how difficult it will be to wire up this set up? Quite honestly, dealing with the electronics in my car is what scares me the most. I am willing to give it a go though.

A: I suggest you read up more. It will be daunting if you don't understand or have no clue what you're doing. Research on how your OEM wiring is setup and what kind of relay harness you would need.


Q: 3rd question- can anyone give me any pointers as to what pieces to use to retrofit my lights? I've seen places where people use silicone rings (possibly to keep out moisture) but I have no idea what to use. I have been contemplating getting in contact with the retrofit source but I wanted to get some feedback here first. Again- I would like to not spend any more money. Therefore, the more I can do myself the better.

A: If your asking how to mount the projectors to the frame you can either use JB Weld (or similar gule/expoxy) or use screws and hardware (http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/sho...nting-Method-(with-Rotational-Adj-Capability))

You have a pre-facelift coupe? If so, you don't need "silicone rings" to seal your headlight since they just come apart without baking them.



Q: 4th question- is it ok to paint the exterior of the projector housings? The shiny chrome film that covers the plastic piece around the projector got accidentally rubbed of a little by myself trying to wipe things down after getting a little moisture in the lights. If this is possible, I would love to add some flare of color to my car coloring them a bit. Just something different.

A: Yes, you can paint the shroud.


My .02 cents. Just keep the FX-R in it's current location and retrofit your OEM projectors to the inner halogen slot.

Thank you very much for your input! You've been extremely helpful! I'll definitely look into more of the wiring set up on my car. I really want to fix my issue, so I'll end up doing something soon. I just don't know yet.


glhx said:
Buy a new housing.....get a halogen housing. I think they are the same as projector, but much less expensive. Or salvage yard headlight, like pull apart
Salvage yard that doesn't care which headlight it is ..all the prices all the same for all headlights removed from their cars
This has me thinking...

What about sticking my original projectors with the bulbs from the umnitza set up so I have high beams and normal looking headlights on my 330ci. With this set up, I could get the super bright bulbs from umnitza that match the fogs I have. The flap in the original projectors just allows more light from the bulb to hit the glass, true? Therefore I don't see a problem.

Then I could buy a halogen shell and stick the FX-Rs with the original xenons from the 330ci. To my understanding, a halogen set up uses the inner bulbs for brights so you could have xenon running lights and halogen brights. Does this sound right?

Thank you for your input!
 

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It will work. My question would be for the 'flash to pass' setup. If you put another projector(FXR) if you want the 'flash' setup the bulb needs to already be fired. So you would be running 4 low beam projectors. Hit the high beam and then all 4 shields move. It would not be as dramatic as you think I don't believe.
 
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