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    1. · Registered
      '05 M3 Vert, '03 330Ci Vert, '05 ZHP 330i 6MT, 996 GT3, 2018 Audi SQ5
      Joined
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      38 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #7 ·
      I'm about to replace my oil pan gasket soon. Were the other repair items easier to get to while doing this job?
      I broke the jobs up into 2 phases...did the oil pan gasket first then moved on to the intake removal phase. You don't get much second order benefits with the oil pan removal other than safety wiring the oil pump gear. I did pop off the fan/intake boots/alternator/power steering pump prior to starting the oil pan job so you could say that the oil pan job facilitated the intake removal.

      WRT the thermostat @Effduration - does that just pop out after unclipping the two clips that put a bind on the spring? I was reticent to force it out (it wouldn't budge and I put this one in already installed in a fresh housing last year) given it has a heated element in there and didn't want to paint myself into a corner with a busted thermostat near job completion. I know that one of the two plastic coolant pipes will get pressurized via the bleed port and will search threads to confirm if only one of the two get tested w/ thermostat in place. I did spend $60 and got a radiator test kit after the fact to properly pressurize and check the leak down.

      Next project is the washer pump....that went south and I found it odd that I get 9V to the pump with the key off. Something isn't right with that but happier than a 16 year old with a new credit card in a whorehouse that I don't have any coolant leaks or oil leaks after going thru this 3 day effort. Sometimes you just don't want to see what's behind the curtain but I don't even want to think what the stealership would charge above the $2,500 just for the oil pan gasket to do the coolant lines/vanos line/etc.

      Oh yeah...one last thing....I didn't use a worm screw type hose clamps on the brake booster line. I bought a box of pinch clamps and the tool to replace the OEM clamps on the brake vacuum line. Those pinch clamps are the bomb (as is the flexible driver to get to the boot clamps with a 6mm 1/4" socket).
       
    2. · Premium Member
      E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
      Joined
      ·
      12,225 Posts
      I broke the jobs up into 2 phases...did the oil pan gasket first then moved on to the intake removal phase. You don't get much second order benefits with the oil pan removal other than safety wiring the oil pump gear. I did pop off the fan/intake boots/alternator/power steering pump prior to starting the oil pan job so you could say that the oil pan job facilitated the intake removal.

      WRT the thermostat @Effduration - does that just pop out after unclipping the two clips that put a bind on the spring? I was reticent to force it out (it wouldn't budge and I put this one in already installed in a fresh housing last year) given it has a heated element in there and didn't want to paint myself into a corner with a busted thermostat near job completion. I know that one of the two plastic coolant pipes will get pressurized via the bleed port and will search threads to confirm if only one of the two get tested w/ thermostat in place. I did spend $60 and got a radiator test kit after the fact to properly pressurize and check the leak down.

      Next project is the washer pump....that went south and I found it odd that I get 9V to the pump with the key off. Something isn't right with that but happier than a 16 year old with a new credit card in a whorehouse that I don't have any coolant leaks or oil leaks after going thru this 3 day effort. Sometimes you just don't want to see what's behind the curtain but I don't even want to think what the stealership would charge above the $2,500 just for the oil pan gasket to do the coolant lines/vanos line/etc.

      Oh yeah...one last thing....I didn't use a worm screw type hose clamps on the brake booster line. I bought a box of pinch clamps and the tool to replace the OEM clamps on the brake vacuum line. Those pinch clamps are the bomb (as is the flexible driver to get to the boot clamps with a 6mm 1/4" socket).
      "The Tool" you posted is the RIGHT one.

      Most buy the crimping tool without the little "shoe" in the center. That shoe is VERY important to properly crimp the Oetiker hose clamps.
      Good job!
       
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