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    1. · Administrator
      2013 X1 M-sport
      Joined
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      22,586 Posts
      I would ONLY buy a genuine BMW branded one. All the others I have tried were garbage and a waste of money.

      And holy crap, the genuine BMW one is now over $100??? It was around $50 like a year ago!

      It’s pretty easy to test them with a 12V power supply, Vacuum Gauge, and Multimeter.
      DME is very particular about the resistance of the solenoid.
       
    1. · Administrator
      2013 X1 M-sport
      Joined
      ·
      22,586 Posts
      Sounds like the ignition switch is malfunctioning. This post has a nice write-up on removal, cleaning, lubing, and worth a try.
      Ignition Switch Cleaning DIY and Anatomy
      That would certainly explain most/all of the symptoms you are seeing.

      Suggest you get a cheap multimeter to measure battery/system voltage, and a BMW-specific scanner to read the nonOBD trouble codes (like from EWS).
      BMW Scanner 1.4
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
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      3 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #3 ·
      Sounds like the ignition switch is malfunctioning. This post has a nice write-up on removal, cleaning, lubing, and worth a try.
      Ignition Switch Cleaning DIY and Anatomy
      That would certainly explain most/all of the symptoms you are seeing.

      Suggest you get a cheap multimeter to measure battery/system voltage, and a BMW-specific scanner to read the nonOBD trouble codes (like from EWS).
      BMW Scanner 1.4
      BaliDawg, thanks for the suggestion. We will look into the ignition switch. I already have a multimeter and he is waiting for a Foxwell NT510 Elite BMW he ordered last week.
       
    1. · Administrator
      2013 X1 M-sport
      Joined
      ·
      22,586 Posts
      You need a multimeter and INPA to troubleshoot this. We can help you, but without those two it is hopeless.
       
    1. · Administrator
      2013 X1 M-sport
      Joined
      ·
      22,586 Posts
      Suggest you get a multimeter for measuring voltage, check continuity, etc. Very useful for electrical issues and checking.

      There are links in that post for the update process, clearing adaptations, etc. I do this for forum members for free. I will PM you my contact info in case you have questions.
       
    2. · Registered
      2001 BMW 330i A/T
      Joined
      ·
      10 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #7 ·
      Suggest you get a multimeter for measuring voltage, check continuity, etc. Very useful for electrical issues and checking.

      There are links in that post for the update process, clearing adaptations, etc. I do this for forum members for free. I will PM you my contact info in case you have questions.
      I tracked down a multimeter and started testing. At the battery terminals under the hood I was getting ~ 12.3 V and at the battery I was getting 12.4. I would then try to start the car and it would not crank and after a minute no power at all. I retested the terminals under the hood but now I was only getting ~ 5V, and at the battery still over 12V.
      I took a break to give some thought as to what might be going on and then tested the battery again. As soon as the positive probe hit the battery post there was a click like a fuse had been reset. (Both places testing at 12V again). Tried to start and same thing, like a fuse blew.

      Long story short the positive battery terminal was a little loose and was causing the issues.

      I then followed your instructions to clear the adaptations, cleared the errors and was able to take a short drive.

      I think it was truly dumb luck that this power issue didn’t occur during the ECU update.


      I will dig into whether the updates (ECU etc) were successful over the weekend or early next week.

      I just wanted to make sure to thank you for the guidance as I was getting pretty close to having the car towed to a repair shop (which I really cannot afford right now).

      Very much appreciated.
       
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