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Old 03-25-2020, 01:33 AM   #41
Archbid
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Quote:
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Knocked out the front control arms and bushings today. Took a lot more effort than I thought. I thought I would never get the ball joints disconnected from the bearing carrier/upright. They have been on there 18 years and I could not get them to break free with hammering the joint at the carrier. I went to Advance and used their loaner pickle fork set and the right side came off pretty quickly but the left side didn't want to break free. I beat on that pickle fork for an hour before it finally came loose. Holy ****!

The ball joints at the subframe came right off with 2 or 3 strikes. Anyway, the Genuine BMW stage 1 front suspension kits came with control arms, lollipops with bushings and all new fasteners. 4 ball joint nuts, 4 FCAB lollipop bolts and 8 new reinforcement plate bolts. Looks pretty nice up there now with everything new.
I love the way it looks with new suspension. I am about to do the same project on my touring. BTW, this is your friend:

Ball Joint Separator

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Old 03-25-2020, 01:36 AM   #42
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Hi everyone my first time posting, I always read, and look for trouble shooting answers, but have never chimed in, so today I thought I would give it a shot. anything besides doing my home work. I'm off work this week and was going to take advantage and work on my car, with my husbands help of course. it started off with: Suspension Refresh, Brakes/Rotors all around, Timing chain and a week ago my starter went out, so now my garage looks like the local pick-a-part, got under my car and now I am going to add the power steering to the list, it's leaking pretty bad, and half the motor is out due to Starter. My husband dropped off my calipers of today to be powder coated PINK, I have been wanting to do it for a while, so now is the perfect time. its going to take some time to get it all done, I will work 1 week on 1 week off till all of this calms down or I get activated
The power steering leaks are mostly from the high-pressure line (the one with a U in it). Just replace it. Pumps don't go bad very often.

The key to removing the starter is a 3/8" spline wrench with a flex head. Take off the intake and just unscrew it.
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Old 03-25-2020, 03:18 AM   #43
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Knocked out the front control arms and bushings today. Took a lot more effort than I thought. I thought I would never get the ball joints disconnected from the bearing carrier/upright. They have been on there 18 years and I could not get them to break free with hammering the joint at the carrier. I went to Advance and used their loaner pickle fork set and the right side came off pretty quickly but the left side didn't want to break free. I beat on that pickle fork for an hour before it finally came loose. Holy ****!

The ball joints at the subframe came right off with 2 or 3 strikes. Anyway, the Genuine BMW stage 1 front suspension kits came with control arms, lollipops with bushings and all new fasteners. 4 ball joint nuts, 4 FCAB lollipop bolts and 8 new reinforcement plate bolts. Looks pretty nice up there now with everything new.
I already have my front control arms set. planned to do on base with lift and proper tools. i'm afraid I don't have enough room to whack them off with just jack stands. but more likely base auto hobby shop is close right now. I was just able to get in today because I have to pick up prescriptions. with a loaner pickle fork or Archbid's ball-joint separator, jack stand high, lying on my back, is it doable?
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:38 AM   #44
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I already have my front control arms set. planned to do on base with lift and proper tools. i'm afraid I don't have enough room to whack them off with just jack stands. but more likely base auto hobby shop is close right now. I was just able to get in today because I have to pick up prescriptions. with a loaner pickle fork or Archbid's ball-joint separator, jack stand high, lying on my back, is it doable?
Yes sir, very doable. I did mine on my QuickJack so jackstands are basically the same. I like the ball joint separator Archbid recommends, but I got it done with the pickle fork. His option certainly would have been quieter.
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:16 AM   #45
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I've done the pickle fork and ball joint separator. Either way will bang. With the separator, make sure none of you is under the arm. It will jolt in that direction at release. Or keep a nut on it.
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:50 AM   #46
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I am still working (from home) otherwise I would be trying to change the fluids with my kids help.
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:16 PM   #47
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I hope to organize my many sets of xenon headlights, and start in on my Quad Bi-Xenon project. Fire up the CNC and make some aluminum mounts and adapters etc.. Should be a fun project.

Since we run a farm that has retail sales to the local area, I'm still quite busy. Which we are grateful for, just wish it was under different circumstances.

Last edited by HayWagon; 03-25-2020 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:17 PM   #48
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I've done the pickle fork and ball joint separator. Either way will bang. With the separator, make sure none of you is under the arm. It will jolt in that direction at release. Or keep a nut on it.
Also wear eye protection. And warn the folks in your household that it will sound like someone discharged a firearm in the garage.
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:47 PM   #49
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My husband dropped off my calipers of today to be powder coated PINK, I have been wanting to do it for a while, so now is the perfect time.
Pink, now that’s original. Would very much like to see this.
Also are these the stock calipers or some other brake kit?
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OE CSL WHEELS - OE CSL BRAKES - OE AUTOFLD MIRRORS - CSL RACK - CSL TRUNK - CSL DIFFUSER - AA TUNE - AA PULLEYS - AS 40% SSK - BILSTEIN PSS9s
CF CSL LIP - NAV- BMWP CF STRUT BAR - BMW GROUP N MNTS - GRUPPE M CF INTAKE - SUPERSPRINT - UUC S/S LINES, RTABs - H&R SWAYS - 4.10 M-SPORT DIFF
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Old 03-25-2020, 01:04 PM   #50
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Pink, now that’s original. Would very much like to see this.

Also are these the stock calipers or some other brake kit?
+1 pictures!

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Old 03-25-2020, 01:15 PM   #51
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I've done the pickle fork and ball joint separator. Either way will bang. With the separator, make sure none of you is under the arm. It will jolt in that direction at release. Or keep a nut on it.
+1

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Also wear eye protection. And warn the folks in your household that it will sound like someone discharged a firearm in the garage.
So True! I could not believe how loud that thing sounded when popped loose. Like a gun shot going off. Did have to beat on that pickle fork with a 3lb sledge for what seemed like forever.
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:58 PM   #52
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will do on safety. just have to order..would choose ball joint separator, less beating with a hammer, away from under arm, with goggles on. till then new tires and alignment in one shot
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:47 AM   #53
Archbid
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My Ride: 330cic, 325i Touring
Year: 03
Model: 330cic
Transmission: 6-Speed, auto
Quote:
Originally Posted by LL i am View Post
I already have my front control arms set. planned to do on base with lift and proper tools. i'm afraid I don't have enough room to whack them off with just jack stands. but more likely base auto hobby shop is close right now. I was just able to get in today because I have to pick up prescriptions. with a loaner pickle fork or Archbid's ball-joint separator, jack stand high, lying on my back, is it doable?
I have "refreshed" three cars now and never used a lift - total suspension replacement. Don't even need to get on your back - go in from the side. But use the ball joint separator and save your arms and ears!

I am going to do the entire front end on my wagon and I think I will assemble away from the car and then jack it into place. It is about $1,200 for the struts, control arms, FCABs, end links, rotors, pads and tie rods, so I bought a $9 front end at the pick and pull to attach it to. Also going to do oil pan and motor mounts. Takes about 6 hours (mostly spent unscrewing and reattaching the oil pan...

One suggestion - if you are getting up in there, think about replacing the steering giubo. Most folks ignore it because it doesn't "break," but it does wear over time, and a new one feels much tighter. I recommend between 125 and 150k miles.

Clarification - you do need to get on your back for tie rods, oil pan, and sway bars.

Last edited by Archbid; 03-26-2020 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:57 AM   #54
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will do on safety. just have to order..would choose ball joint separator, less beating with a hammer, away from under arm, with goggles on. till then new tires and alignment in one shot
Once, when I bought a new engine, I had to separate the front end, and I pulled out my ball joint separator. The guys ran a small shop and had always used the pickle fork. They were so happy at how easy it was that I left them the tool as a gift (they gave me some tie-downs for the truck bed!)
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:38 PM   #55
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Just happen to pick up a new play toy - 02 vert with 98k miles before all this started. Time to refresh everything. Starting on the cooling system and moving forward. Plenty to keep me busy.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:38 PM   #56
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Control Arms on my 330 are a PITA. Original to the car with 15 years (i.e. Winters) and 210K+ miles on them. Passenger side, center ball joint (the one through the subframe) nut did not want to come loose.

After some experimentation, ultimately used an extended 21mm wrench, rubber hammer and more patience than I was expecting to burn but finally got it off.

Driver side I'm more optimistic about. Removed the entire intake track to the TB and can access the nut from the top so the impact gun can take care of it.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:47 PM   #57
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Passenger side, center ball joint (the one through the subframe) nut did not want to come loose.

After some experimentation, ultimately used an extended 21mm wrench, rubber hammer and more patience than I was expecting to burn but finally got it off.
Nice job. I haven't yet done my control arms, and I'm still unsure of how I'm supposed to torque that nut to spec given that there's absolutely no way to get a socket on it.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:51 PM   #58
Overboost
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight View Post
Control Arms on my 330 are a PITA. Original to the car with 15 years (i.e. Winters) and 210K+ miles on them. Passenger side, center ball joint (the one through the subframe) nut did not want to come loose.

After some experimentation, ultimately used an extended 21mm wrench, rubber hammer and more patience than I was expecting to burn but finally got it off.

Driver side I'm more optimistic about. Removed the entire intake track to the TB and can access the nut from the top so the impact gun can take care of it.
The center ball joint nuts were definitely a PITA to get off but they popped off with only 2 or 3 strikes with a 4 lb mini sledge. I struggled like nobody's business getting the outer ball joints off though. Just went thru this but so satisfying getting it done after 18 years.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:28 PM   #59
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A bunch of retrofits (323i). Salvage yards remain open and continue to add cars to pull from.

1. HK amp/speakers/sub with working spatial button.
The spatial button works but doesn’t light up; its missing
resistors for the led to function in the center switch.

2. Interior trunk release button.

3. Sport steering wheel swap.

4. M56 valve cover conversion.

5. M50 manifold conversion.


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Old 04-02-2020, 10:28 PM   #60
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Nice job. I haven't yet done my control arms, and I'm still unsure of how I'm supposed to torque that nut to spec given that there's absolutely no way to get a socket on it.
You can fit a standard depth 3/8 drive socket on it, but the problem is clearing the ratchet as well. I have a super thin combination ratchet from HFT that works but my torque wrench is too big.

While poking around under there, I decided to order new engine and transmission mounts. That might be the ticket, i.e. jack up the engine and while the engine mount on the passenger side is out, take advantage of the newfound clearance and torque the control arm nut.

Plan B will be to try and torque with a crowfoot wrench.

Plan C will be to brace myself and crank on it as hard as I can with a basic wrench.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
The center ball joint nuts were definitely a PITA to get off but they popped off with only 2 or 3 strikes with a 4 lb mini sledge. I struggled like nobody's business getting the outer ball joints off though. Just went thru this but so satisfying getting it done after 18 years.
Absolutely! The QuickJack also helps encourage me to take on more of these projects.

I've been chipping away at various projects (lunch hour here, part of an evening there). The process is sometimes infuriating but the satisfaction of overcoming a hurdle or completing a job is certainly there.
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