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Old 01-18-2020, 09:29 PM   #21
BaliDawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EugeneF View Post
What's your opinion on Auto Tranny fluid? I'm at 102k - flush it or leave it alone?
Absolutely change the ATF, at least every 50k-60k miles.

Some do multiple drain and fills, but I like to do a full exchange using the ATF cooler lines.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1240813
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:41 AM   #22
Efthreeoh
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Originally Posted by io14 View Post
If I may suggest that the rubber brake line hoses from the calipers to the steel brake fluid lines should be changed out around 15 years on these vehicles as well. Just my 2 cents.
My Wife's Z3 now at 24 years old has the original brake hoses on it. Took it on a road trip in late 2017 across the USA. I checked the lines. They were dirty. Used some silicone rubber seal treatment on them and they cleaned up to look brand new.
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Old 02-19-2020, 11:58 AM   #23
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Added steering flex disc/giubo at 150k. You will notice the difference!
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Old 03-19-2020, 03:08 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by paindoc View Post
Would you alter these age-based recommendations for a car that has been in garage storage for 10 years? I had mine looked over closely by a local indie shop and all they found was a bad fuel pump, and changed the oil. Specifically said all the fluids, rubber, lines, and hoses were fine. Now I need to deal with the fabric peeling off the A, B, and C pillars, and a blown rear speaker.
How I dealt with that on my touring:

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpo...5&postcount=24
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:34 PM   #25
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I'd say engine mounts 75k-100k. The OEM Corteco mounts are now just $31 each.
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Old 05-10-2020, 04:50 PM   #26
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My Ride: 330cic, 325i Touring
Year: 03
Model: 330cic
Transmission: 6-Speed, auto
I am doing my fourth "rigorous tuneup" since November, and have been using my findings to inform this schedule:

1. 2002 330cic - 135k miles
2. 2002 325cic - 180k miles
3. 2003 330cic ZHP - 190k miles (120k on engine)
4. 2002 325iT - 150k miles

General observations - every CCV was shot. Front control arms, bushings, front end links, struts and shocks shot on every one.

Coolant hard lines gone. Vacuum hoses crumbling. Power steering lines from reservoir and main ps pressure lines gone.

Front sway bar bushings we're very soft in each case.

Every one.

On a positive front, the calipers and pins on all were in great shape (California cars), the rear end links and stabilizer bushings were all solid.
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Old 05-10-2020, 05:08 PM   #27
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1. 330cic

This was a friend's car that was sold to another friend. There was 18" of water in the trunk! Otherwise the car was in fantastic shape interior and exterior.

Someone prior had put on oversized wheels and spacers, which is super-irritating.

Did a complete intake refresh - every o-ring, seal, gasket and hose.

- all vacuum lines were long past shot. Replaced with silicon
- when we pulled the fuel rail the o-rings were rigid. Tried to reuse and it sprayed everywhere with the engine on. Lesson learned. Those guys should be replaced or left alone!
- hard lines were powder at the head. Looked great from the outside
- low fuel pressure - replaces filter and pump
- high ltfts led to replacement of MAF, Precat O2 sensors

Suspension looked fine at first glance except torn FCABs and FCA boots, but car was bottoming out. Replaced shocks, struts, fca and fcabs. Huge difference in stability and no more bottoming out.

Oil pan, tranny sump, and OFHG all leaking. Replaced them all. Flushed transmission and changed seal and filter.

Left door actuator was also shot. Replaced.

Last edited by Archbid; 05-10-2020 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 05-10-2020, 05:22 PM   #28
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My Ride: 330cic, 325i Touring
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Model: 330cic
Transmission: 6-Speed, auto
2. 2002 325cic - 180k miles

Holy cow. Deferred maintenance sucks.

Closing on 200k, this car, for the daughter of a friend, needed a ton.

All the standard intake work as above. Everything crumbled when removed. O2 sensors and MAF were under-reporting and fuel pressure was 40psi.

DISA wouldn't hold vacuum and slipped right out when removed.

IAC and throttle were in good shape.

Still testing, but VANOS seems to be having issues.

OFHG been changed before, but I put a new one in anyway while I was in there. AC is dead. New belts, pulleys and spark plugs.

Haven't done suspension yet, but FCA, FCABs, tie rod ends, end links, shocks and struts are all gone. Car weaves and bobs all over the place.

If the car weren't free, I would not have worked on it. So much to fix.

Running well except cold start. Will do suspension next.

Last edited by Archbid; 05-10-2020 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:00 PM   #29
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3. 2003 330cic ZHP - 190k miles (120k on engine)

This is my baby, and I covered most of the maintenance in my swap thread.

4. 2002 325iT - 150k miles

I love my touring so much, but I paid $500 for it and may have overpaid. Body in perfect condition, interior was a disaster. Did a complete interior swap to black and can comfortably say that nobody should do this. Impossible to find parts except in Europe, and expensive.

That said, once I got the interior where I wanted it, I started on the maintenance (I am sharing these stories to contextualize my old-a$$ maintenance schedule). I feel like one of the prior owners went to Burning Man in it and drove home via Boston midwinter. So much dirt in every crevice, and much more corrosion in the underbody than we see out here in CA.

At 150k, I expected to have to do the cooling, belts and pulleys, and I was not disappointed. Replaced most of the rubber attached to the intake, but did not have to replace the MAF or pump. LTFTs are in line. Replaced the O2 sensors because they were original and it was time.

The suspension was a train wreck. It was groaning a bit so I figured struts. A casual survey showed a lot of corrosion and wear - FCA ball joints were shot, FCABs were ripped, end links were torn. I decided to just rebuild the front end outside the car and swap when it was ready, and that gave me the opportunity to put in 330 brakes and kingpins. I highly recommend this method! I had to get another front subframe, which was $20 at Pick n Pull, but everything else bolts on and it is just so much easier to do outside of the car!

I pulled the old suspension out and holy c***. One engine mount was completely torn and detached. The other was close to failure. Every piece of the suspension was gone. Old rack was fine, but since I got a 712 for $16, I swapped it out.

150k and the entire front suspension was gone. Note - I have not done the rear.

Last edited by Archbid; 05-10-2020 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:02 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
If you think about it, there is no other fluid on a car that anyone will say "if you haven't changed in all this time you're better off leaving it alone", they'll say in every other case "are you crazy?! Let's get that out of there!"
Thatís not true...
Blinker fluid never needs to be replaced and one should not mess with it. Unless you want to upgrade it to faster blinking fluid.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:16 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Archbid View Post
I am working on my first two A/T cars right now and am flushing both - one at 125k and another at 175k. I'll let you know in a few weeks if either blows up, but I always bias towards maintenance. I hate endless codes.
been a few weeks.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:19 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Alex323Ci View Post
Thatís not true...
Blinker fluid never needs to be replaced and one should not mess with it. Unless you want to upgrade it to faster blinking fluid.
Most people don't even know where the Knuter valve is located to even change the blinker fluid!
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:29 PM   #33
LL i am
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Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
Most people don't even know where the Knuter valve is located to even change the blinker fluid!

guilty. I trust professionals on stuffs like this. my mechanic was surprised (me lucky) blinkers didn't get damaged running dry.
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Old 05-10-2020, 10:52 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LL i am View Post
been a few weeks.
Got tied up replacing the entire front suspension on my touring as well as the oil pan gasket and the OFHG. Next up is the transmission fluid!

I'll get to the blinker fluid eventually, but that stuff is as good on the last day as it was on the first!

Last edited by Archbid; 05-10-2020 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 05-11-2020, 02:05 AM   #35
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Would I be correct in thinking that car owners who drive their vehicles hard (eg; like they stole 'em)
suffer more degeneration of parts, etc?
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:47 AM   #36
pepega
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Would you recommend to replace starter and alternator as preventative maintenance at 100k? What's your advice? Do alternators fail without any signs? I believe in preventative maintenance but I also believe not throwing money if the part has plenty of life left.
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:55 AM   #37
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Would you recommend to replace starter and alternator as preventative maintenance at 100k? What's your advice? Do alternators fail without any signs? I believe in preventative maintenance but I also believe not throwing money if the part has plenty of life left.
No. Alternator will show signs if you watch voltage. Starter will die, and I put it in at 150k because in order to do the intake seals you need to remove the intake, and definitely PM when the intake is off.
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:56 AM   #38
Archbid
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Would I be correct in thinking that car owners who drive their vehicles hard (eg; like they stole 'em)
suffer more degeneration of parts, etc?
I have no idea, except for clutches and brakes!
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:11 AM   #39
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****. I already taken off intake to replace seals and hard coolant lines. Dont want to take it off again.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:14 AM   #40
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Archbid,
2002 330 vert with 41,500 on the clock and lives in the CA desert. Getting ready to have a MT swap. What are the other logical things to have done at the same time? I was thinking electric fan and expansion tank. Thanks.


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