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Old 07-27-2010, 05:48 PM   #21
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The E36 thermostats shown in that video appear to use a flat gasket that is just sandwiched between the thermostat housing and where it mounts. It could be that the different gasket style the E46 thermostat uses eliminates that issue. The rubber gasket in the channel would allow for more movement before causing any leaks...
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:49 PM   #22
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http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...54ALUTHERM.htm

$500 thermostat - Can't go wrong ::Rolls Eyes::
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:24 PM   #23
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http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...54ALUTHERM.htm

$500 thermostat - Can't go wrong ::Rolls Eyes::
Goes perfectly with their $1,000 radiator.

http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...code/E46AR.htm
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:07 AM   #24
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so i wat stupid enough to buy aluminium thermostat from e bay as well and after installing the thermostat i drove to portland from seattle....
my car broke on my way back luckly it was close enough thus i towed my car to my friends house. i discovered fuel pump relay was burnt and replaced it however my car still wont start. do i have to use a replacement key to start my car as the key is programmed that way or is there something else wrong?
i know for sure the culprit was the thermostat housing now that i read your thread....
please help
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:07 AM   #25
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https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...23i+wont+start
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:19 AM   #26
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130386454521
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Old 08-09-2010, 03:13 AM   #27
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just go OEM. the only non OEM part i have put on my car is a brass bleeder screw. (besides suspension ofc.)
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:46 AM   #28
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You buy cheap chinese parts, you get chinese crap. Lesson learned???
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:59 PM   #29
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yup lesson learnt indeed no more cheap chinese parts.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:00 PM   #30
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just go OEM. the only non OEM part i have put on my car is a brass bleeder screw. (besides suspension ofc.)
suspension ofc? whats that?
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:15 PM   #31
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suspension ofc? whats that?
I'm thinking that 'ofc' means 'of course' but we'll find out. Golf found out that there's a hidden fan club of his, just wondering what he's going to do next...so we all know that he violated the 'stock oath' and went with that other brand of control arms/bushing.

Next meeting, we vote on the matter...that's next Thursday (PM me, guys, to confirm).

Anyway, the brass bleeder was just too much, so he's on the agenda.

And, don't forget, when he says OEM, he really means OE or OEM (when it's prolly going to be exactly the same part...but sometimes OEM means that Bosch makes the coil, so it's an OEM company...but if you buy an Alternator that, say, Bosch doesn't make for the E46, it could still be called an OEM part. It is; it's just that that part isn't OE. Confused? Hope not!

Anyway, another reason we're all really concerned about Golf...and it's not just a game!

Rumor has it that he's thinking of doing the clown nose removal mod and actually glue a painted piece of index card over the hole...if he is...he should stop!
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:44 AM   #32
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thanks
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:47 AM   #33
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A reliability issue the E46 cooling system is that there are too many plastic pieces, like the thermostat. So I bought an aluminum version that stands up to heat cycles, but whose electronics were abysmal. On day 3, (why couldn't it have been immediately at install) I got stranded with no start situation, like I was fuel starved. No CEL codes showed to diagnose the thermostat fault.

Unfortunately these Chinese sourced versions are the only aluminum versions. The Behr and Wahlers have stuck to plastic.
The result was an expensive tow and diagnosis in the shop.
The E46 uses sensors to control the thermostat opening. If the sensor malfunctions the engine simply will not start. The electrical connection is there to power a heater element in the thermostat. This enables opening of the thermostat by the engine management system. With a conventional r rethermostat the coolant around the cylinders would boil under hard acceleration before the water at the thermostat got hot enough to open it and cool the cylinders. With a heated (map) thermostat the engine management system can look at the power requirement and predict the heat build up, therefore it can switch on the thermostat heater and get the thermostat open in time to cool the cylinders.
My aluminum version of the E46 thermostat was not up to the job.
so what all was wrong with your car and how did u get it fixed? my car got same issues after replacing the cheap aluminium thermostat
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:29 PM   #34
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so what all was wrong with your car and how did u get it fixed? my car got same issues after replacing the cheap aluminium thermostat
The ECU was not picking up sensors from the thermostat and the car would crank and crank with no start. Needed to pull out and return the Asian fake thermostat and put in an OEM supplier t-stat - Behr. The Asian thermostat ran for only 3 days.
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:44 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arsevader View Post
Seeing as the M54 thermostat is more likely to stick open than crack, the housing the aluminum one is overkill. The e36 thermostat was more prone to cracking and therefore an aluminum housing made sense.

With the addition of electronics, it's a pretty much done deal. No way to separate the 2.
+1

I used to drive an e36 so don't even ask why i agree.

Xiter thanks for making this thread and the heads up!

I always value your threads, posts and advice.

Thanks.
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:33 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xi_ter View Post
The ECU was not picking up sensors from the thermostat and the car would crank and crank with no start. Needed to pull out and return the Asian fake thermostat and put in an OEM supplier t-stat - Behr. The Asian thermostat ran for only 3 days.
i changed the thermostat back to oem however no start..
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Old 08-16-2010, 12:29 AM   #37
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Is the electrical connector attached to the thermostat solidly?


Check fuses and electrical connections to the fuel pump (under the rear seat). Also the code reader might give a code for what's causing the problem.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:52 AM   #38
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The ECU was not picking up sensors from the thermostat and the car would crank and crank with no start. Needed to pull out and return the Asian fake thermostat and put in an OEM supplier t-stat - Behr. The Asian thermostat ran for only 3 days.
stupid .... dont matter if that sh!t was made by a redneck out in the boondocks, its still an Aluminum thermostat ur dumass bought off of EBAY. u didnt trust OEM parts, so u looked to eBAY? good job
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Old 08-16-2010, 07:27 AM   #39
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Is the electrical connector attached to the thermostat solidly?


Check fuses and electrical connections to the fuel pump (under the rear seat). Also the code reader might give a code for what's causing the problem.
Fil,

Not sure where you were in your other thread, but Xi has good suggestions...

I'm sure that the battery has been checked, right? Did you use a different key yet or put new bats. in yours (if they're replaceable like mine...think in '01, all became only chargeable...but there is a diy for fixing bat yourself in them to save $150 or more!). Oh, and pull up on cable too...they sometimes have tight nuts on cable, but cable is still loose on terminals.

Starters go bad...if you bang them, evidently you can sometimes get them to actually start...if it does after banging, you know you need a new starter.

There's a switch on clutch pedal on mine that has to be engaged also for car to start...sure there's an analogous one on autos too...they go bad.

If you had a clutch stop added, remove it and try again.

Sorry...I didn't go back to your original thread...sometimes best to keep dialogue all in one thread to make it easier on us lazy, but trying to be helpful, types!

Doug
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:14 PM   #40
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i took it to dealership in seattle they just called first hour of diagnostics they found out that theres no power comming to fuel pump possibly a wire sorted out or something they are still looking
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