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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:36 PM   #21
als00328ci
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So I finally received my new extraction bits which I found were very solid and meant for high torque applications. They are so strong that I unfortunately broke the bolt ear since I drilled the pilot hole extremely off center and off perpendicular. At this point, it looks like I have no choice but to remove the engine and now I have to also figure out how I can fix the broken bolt hole and the remaining stuck bolt. I'm wondering if I can get an epoxy or possibly weld it and retap the hole.
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:39 PM   #22
Effduration
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That's a real drag, man. Here is a thread i found that deals with a similar issue:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/.../t-170912.html

A Couple of ideas:
1. Remove remaining threads if you can without further damage. Then put some threaded rod thru the trans and what's left of that hole and bolt it on both sides. Don't crank on it. Less torque than that used on the other big bolts. I am not sure whether you put the dowel back in.

2. Just go without. I am not wild about this solution because I think that was one of the bigger bolts, and it had a dowel. But we are not sealing the bellhousing to block, just snugging them tight. And the trans mount supports the trans from below. The (weak) consensus in above thread was that going without one would be fine.

Even if you do pull the engine, I am not sure how you repair that hole to hold any kind of torque (I don't think JB WEld will do it)

Please keep us posted.
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:57 PM   #23
Effduration
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I am reading another thread where a a fellow with a manual 5-series (similar engine) bolted his transmission with only one dowel present. He and others think it caused a slight mis-alignment (due to slop in bell housing bolt holes ) that caused clutch issues. You should try to find a solution that preserves the dowel in that hole.

I would try the threaded rod with the dowel in place and bolts/washers on either side.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mponents/page2

Last edited by Effduration; 07-23-2018 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:24 AM   #24
als00328ci
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I think the dowel is needed for sure. I will need to get another one before I can even bolt anything together. Instead of the threaded rod, I wonder if it would be possible to get the broken piece welded back on and then have a longer bolt installed with a deep nut that I can get welded to the back of the old hole. The dowel would provide the stability to keep it aligned and the new bolt and nut should provide a good clamping force.

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Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
I am reading another thread where a a fellow with a manual 5-series (similar engine) bolted his transmission with only one dowel present. He and others think it caused a slight mis-alignment (due to slop in bell housing bolt holes ) that caused clutch issues. You should try to find a solution that preserves the dowel in that hole.

I would try the threaded rod with the dowel in place and bolts/washers on either side.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mponents/page2
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Old 02-27-2019, 03:58 PM   #25
als00328ci
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So after a while sitting on the idea of taking out my engine, I finally decided to remove it to have it fixed. I was looking at the idea of swapping engines or getting this one rebuilt but I managed to find a welding shop that will be able to fix the broken piece or rather rebuild the broken piece. I dropped it off today so let's see how this goes.

All of this due to one broken bolt.
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Old 02-27-2019, 05:25 PM   #26
cwarel
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Had same issue literary , crooked drilled hole that had no effect on removing a bolt , had to drill it out completely and put a nut on the other side , but then from torque or whatever a whole chunk just broke off , so I never bothered with that bolt and everything seems alright so far )))
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:33 PM   #27
als00328ci
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That is exactly my fear which led me to remove the engine and try to get it a stronger fix. The welding company has been around for over 60 years and they are confident that the rebuilt hole will be just as strong as the original. I hope he is right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwarel View Post
Had same issue literary , crooked drilled hole that had no effect on removing a bolt , had to drill it out completely and put a nut on the other side , but then from torque or whatever a whole chunk just broke off , so I never bothered with that bolt and everything seems alright so far )))
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Old 03-01-2019, 11:50 AM   #28
Voltron263
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Weld

if there is enough space you can weld a 13mm nut on top on the bolt and get it out that way.
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Old 03-01-2019, 04:14 PM   #29
als00328ci
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I just picked up my engine from the welding shop and they did a fantastic job in rebuilding the broken ear. Looks great and feels solid. I gave them the transmission and bolts so they could test fit it all and it fit perfectly. Now just need to order some additional parts since the engine is out and see if I could put it back together. I'm wondering if the fuel tank and fuel lines need to be cleaned since the fuel has been sitting there for over a year with no fuel stabilizer??


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Last edited by als00328ci; 03-01-2019 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 03-02-2019, 03:57 PM   #30
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Congrats!
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:53 PM   #31
als00328ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltron263 View Post
Congrats!
Thanks alot I hope this was the hardest part.

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Old 07-22-2019, 12:48 PM   #32
als00328ci
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Just a little update. Replaced a bunch of seals, sensors, gaskets and finally the engine is back in with some other upgrades. It's looking alot better now. Started the engine and noticed oil spraying from the pulley. Just sent the blower to superchargerebuilds who seem to be one only guys that work on Rotrex blowers so let's hope for the best. I heard of some good and bad things about them and I'm hoping I will not end up with a negative view on them.
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