E46 Fanatics Forum banner

DIY: Adding OEM Rear Fog Lamps for under $30

136K views 138 replies 41 participants last post by  Cloudyy 
#1 · (Edited)
Finally finished this easy and cheap DIY.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RZ1x1DfwKI

As many of you may know all E46 vehicles made before 9/2001 (prefacelift) have an empty bulb slot
under the reverse lamp in the trunk lid that is reserved for the rear fog bulbs.
In Europe this slot is usually used for the rear fog lamps that powers on with the extra fog lamp switch on the LKM (European version of the Light Switch Module). On the USA facelift E46 cars made after 9/2001 this bulb slot includes a bulb that is used for the normal driving tail lamps. In Europe the bulb in these trunk lid slots on their facelift E46 cars brightens when the rear fog button is pushed. So that noted I will add that my DIY serves those E46 sedans and possibly coupes/convertibles made before 9/2001.
I'm sure this DIY can be used as a general guide for the later E46 sedans as well once the proper LKM faceplate w/ rear fog button is added to their cars.

In the USA rear fogs have been excluded and our LCM (USA version of the Light Switch Module) lacks the rear fog lamp button.

Now to add Rear Fogs to any USA E46 (prefacelift) you will need;

1. The Euro LKM faceplate that has the rear fog button on it. The faceplates all detach from the Light Switch Module body and will attach easily onto your LCM.
I got mine from eBay.co.uk for $15. They are always lots of them there for cheap. Don't pay more than $50 for one and NO you do not need this to get dealer programming NOR does it set off your odometer tamper indicator. Remember you ONLY need the faceplate and NOT the entire LKM.



2. A pair of Pin Bushing Contacts to fit in to the Tail Lamp Bulb Holder connector BMW Parts #61130006626. You need two (one for each bulb). I paid $6.46 for the pair at my local BMW dealership.


3. One Pin Bushing Contact for the LCM Pin 49 slot BMW Parts#61130008998 which cost $3.60 at my dealership.


4. About 30 feet of 20-22 gauge wire. I paid about $5 for a spool at the local radio shack. Also heat shrink and a lighter to connect the wires together. I paid 99 cents for a pack of heat shrink at Home Depot.

5. A Woodboring 5/8" drill bit which cost me $2.49 at Home Depot. You do not need to buy the Steelboring bit which cost about $20 to $30 for just the one bit. The Woodboring bit did the trick. You also need a 6V or better power drill and small drill bits that usually come with the drill. Most households already have this or you can easily borrow from somewhere.

6. wire coat hanger and Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) or some sort of lubricant.

7. Fog light bulbs which is identical to the reverse tail lamp bulbs I got 1157 which is 12volts/26watts. They cost about $1.50 each.

8. Needle nose Pliers, dull butter knife and screwdriver for removing LCM and Trunk lid lining

Let's begin our Pictorial DIY:










To see how to remove the driverside footwell panel and steering wheel trim
please see my previous DIY showing how to do it

http://www.e46zone.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=10223



















 
See less See more
16
#116 · (Edited)
I saw something where terra phantom said.....U.S. Halogen cars don't come with the motors that use that thumb dial but the European ones do. I may have read it wrong....the conversation wasn't exactly detailed

If I can get rid of one tail gater it's worth it. I will never ever ever ever understand why someone has to drive that close to someone else. The common sense just isn't involved. It's the only reason I want this. I was going to wire my tail lights to a switch anyway before i found this......and I still might.

I do wonder what other benefits the lkm has over the lcm?
 
#121 · (Edited)
The cars from the phillipnes are left hand drive.
They have the rear fog lights and the drivers glove box
The picture above is a car from there.

The switches are expensive for what they are. They won't sell them separate from the lkm.
$80 seems a bit much for a headlight switch
 
#124 · (Edited)
I will document it carefully when I do the job.
I can walk you through it in detail with pictures I already have without actually doing the mod.

Basically
Your inner tail lights have a plate over a hidden bulb housing. Grind that out and add bulbs

There's 2 little silver connectors that fit into the plug for the lights. You put a wire on them and crimp it down.
These are the same little pins that are already in the plug. You just adding another with a wire.
So now your plug has.....say.....3 wires instead of the original 2 coming out the back of it.

Then there is the lcm. Same thing there.....buy a pin connector and attach a wire to it with crimpers. Plug it right in to the lcm

Run that wire the length of the car. From the trunk to the headlight switch.
If you want this go ahead and run the wire and leave some extra for cutting and I'll walk you through the rest. I would go with 12 gauge automotive wire. You get it at any auto parts store in 5 colors. Zip tie it to the existing wires. I get bright colors for this kind of stuff.

Add a euro switch and your done.
There are several switches to choose from depending on what you want.

I won't be doing this for a while as the switch is expensive for what it is and I've got to drop $600 on replacing all the rear suspension bushings , bearings and lower control arms. I was doing mods like led tails, m3 mirrors, and a rear view mirror compass upgrade. I got them done....
The rear lights were next but I have to focus on suspension stuff. I have a bad vibration all of a sudden and the differential is making a faint knocking sound on take off. I'm guessing the rear diff bushing but I don't know if that would cause vibration. In looking at everything.,...it visually looks ok except for some cracking of the diff bushing
 
#125 ·
You've got a lot on your plate. Good luck with the suspension.
I may just wait for your DIY. I botched up my crispy sound deadening in the back doing the fuel pump , which I need to address, car is now really loud. Need to change the tranny and differential fluid. Plus shocks for the rear, and a brake sensor. So the rear fogs will take a back seat for now.
Are you happy with your new paint? Haven't visited that thread in a while.
 
#126 ·
I haven't visited that thread in forever. There is still work I need to do on it to finish it. Hundreds of pictures sit in my Flickr of the car being in pieces.

I am happy with the new paint so far. My car is low and I hit unplowed snow going from one county to the next and it broke my bumper. It all has to be repaired but shouldn't be too bad. I'll do a diy on the plastic fix n the paint thread.

I'm at sort of a loss on which direction to go with the suspension. Poly or rubber. So much mixed information on the two. I know factory rubber lasts 140k so it's a safe bet but my suspension is stiff so it might wear it faster.
 
#133 ·
Hello,

Could someone PLEASE help me figure out why my e46 320d (Europe) from 2003 (Post facelift) has the fog lights always ON (dimmed but ON)?
I HATE THAT!!!! I would like them to be ON just when I press the rear Fog Button and not as running lights.

Here's a picture about what I'm talking:



I would be much appreciated for your help!

Raul Nunes
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top