This is the Ultimate resource for people who want to do the 5 speed conversion. Paired with the DIY by Ivegotissues666, you should be golden.
This thread is going to be oriented more towards the process side of the swap rather than the DIY. I will include my own documentation and pictures of the swap but there will not be as much detail in the mechanical side as Ivegotissues666's DIY. If you have a hard time following DIYs and filling in possible gaps in information, you might want to invest in a Bentley manual.
Here are all my resources I used:
www.realOEM.com<---------------------------------- Part number lookup
https://cardiagn.com/bmw-wiring-diagram-system-wds/<------ BMW WDS (every wiring diagram)
Members I referred to for help. Thanks to you guys VERY much
I decided to go for the swap because I plan to keep my car for a very long time and selling it was unrealistic for me. I've already put about $4000 in this car, replacing just about everything and making this car pretty much brand new. We will start with prices:
If you are a DIY kind of person, you can expect to pull the swap for about $2500. This includes pretty much all OEM parts, some aftermarket.
OEM Parts:
Various OEM parts - BMW Dealership / Tischer / TurnerMotorsport
I'm just the kind of person who likes to buy new used things so I hunted for the best transmission I could find for the price. It came from a 1998 BMW 328i. I checked on realOEM and it has the same model and part number, exactly for my 328Ci. After I did the shift pin service on it, I realized that the car it came out of might have been a 1998, but the transmission itself is wayyy newer. Because it doesn't have a VIN number on the transmission and the build date on it is newer. My guess is that the previous owner of this transmission had a problem and BMW just replaced the transmission rather than doing the 5th/reverse gear detent fix. I guess that's what BMW did back in the day before they decided to make TSBs...
Back on track: Then I started to buy the goodies, new OEM Luk flywheel from Autozone. Proceeded to buy the OEM Sachs Clutch kit from TurnerMotorsport for $250 and added a SS Clutch line. I felt like doing the swap right the first time so I also threw in the UUC EVO3 + DSSR from Turner. Bought all new parts and pieces from my friend at the dealer, which I got for around $500. This doesn't include the rear main seal kit or transmission repair kit to fix the "stick rests at 5th gear" problem. The driveshaft I COULD NOT find anywhere, so I had to buy a brand new one from my friend at the BMW dealer. $610.04... damn. Oh well, at least I don't have to worry about bad U-joints or a bent shaft. If you need to replace you rear main seal, tack on another $150 because if you neglect to replace a leaking seal, your clutch will slip because of all the oil so just go ahead and assume that the entire parts list comes around to a total of $3000 properly done. Also, a known problem with these manual transmissions is the "shifter rests at 5th gear" problem. There is a TSB out for this and if you decide to repair your transmission, tack on another $50 to the entire cost. Your transmission will feel brand new and yeah, do it.
If you decide to do the 5th/reverse fix, it's very wise to fix the shifter pins as well because the transmission is already out. There are 3 shifter pins plus the pins for 5th/reverse.
Here are the parts you need:
And the DIY:
Sticky shifter on the M Coupe...Common problem?
Stick rests at 5th gear when cold
transmission work at the Forbes' place <-------- real DIY with good pictures
--------------------------------------------
All in all, DIY total comes around to $3000... this includes the UUC EVO3 SSK that I also purchased from TurnerMotorsports (I figured I could buy one nice aftermarket piece right?). The new driveshaft came with the guibo but if you find a good used driveshaft, you will still need to buy a new guibo. You also need new manual transmission fluid so tack on another $35 to that price. Like I said before, if you shop smart, you can do the conversion for under $2500, it might be less if you can find a good used driveshaft... It might be a lot more if you decide that you need the UUC stage 2 flywheel/M5 clutch combo! It really doesn't matter though, the swap will still be around $2500-3000 DIY or $4000-5000 professionally done.
For an average person like me, DIY is the way to go. I cannot afford having a shop do this for me, as it would cost into 5k as some of the members here have posted. I simply cant justify spending that much, half of that is ok...
We will start with a parts list. This is for my 328Ci so if you have a 323/325/330, these parts will have different parts number. This is PRETTY MUCH the Official 5 Speed parts list. The ones listed in bold are special order parts so good luck getting most of them at your local BMW parts counter. Prices are listed next to the parts, most of them are from Pelican parts or BavAuto. Some of the bigger parts you can get at BMA Parts. All of the prices are listed considering the quantity of the parts. So those are the prices for those listed numbers of parts.
5 speed parts list Prices
Gearbox Support:
Linkage Parts
Pedal Assembly
Flywheel
Clutch
Clutch Control
Driveshaft Components
Exhaust Suspension
Gearbox Mounting
Parts you might need if they don't already come with the transmission
I went back and I also noticed I forgot to add these parts:
You also will need to get the shifter knob of your choice, I opted for the weighted ZHP knob from Tischer. Also, you need the manual shifter boot, I also got that from Tischer.
You will need 2 liters of manual transmission fluid as well. After a lot of research I decided to get RP Synchromax from my local Napa Auto store. When I bought the transmission from my local salvage yard, I guess they drained the fluid from the transmission, because there was no fluid when we went to flush it and fill it with Royal Purple. btw, the Synchromax feels great, shifts are so smooth and I have no problems with any of the shifter gates/shift pins. I haven't driven more than 200 miles since the swap so I cant tell you how RP is in the long run but I'll let you know.
The last part I forgot to get until the last minute was the clutch alignment tool for self adjusting clutches or SACs. The SAC uses a special tool unlike regular sprung clutch assemblies. You can get the tool from Pelican Parts for $17. That's where I got it from but I needed overnight shipping so the total came to around $40. It's the tool in the picture of the shift knob + shift boot.
I cross-referenced these part numbers with the realOEM part printouts I already had and came up with prices and updated part numbers and such. You should do the same. Btw, I'm not liable for any mis-ordered parts. Use this list at your discretion.
_
Here is a picture of the manual transmission. This is after I soaked it in purple power degreaser and scrubbed it down. It was really clean when I first picked it up though. Be sure to get the same transmission realOEM says is for your car. My car used a ZF S5D 320Z THMW, the car I got if from used the exact transmission. The only difference between most of the transmissions you will find is the 4 letter combination at the end, I'm not sure if its a final drive ratio code or something but I didn't want to mess around and experiment. Here are a bunch of pictures!!
UUC EVO3 SSK + DSSR!!!
Before you do this swap, you should be very schooled in the electronics of E46s. I read up on everything I needed to know in advance. Neutral safety switch, reverse lights, recoding all the modules with the GT1, ect. KNOW your stuff before you get involved in the swap otherwise you might regret it later. Use the link to the WDS I linked so you can study up!
The electronic side of the swap involves getting this information from your car:
SA code
GM
VN
Then removing the automatic transmission option from the SA and recompiling the SA to that of a manual transmission car. Then you reapply the SA into the car and recode all the modules to a manual transmission. You will need access to a BMW GT1 or Autologic system. I used the one at my local BMW dealership but if you don't have access. Just kindly ask your service manager to help you out and do the coding. It will probably cost you 2 hours of labor or just the flat rate fee of re-flashing your car's ECU. There is no need to replace your ECU or replace your instrument cluster or anything. Just have to recode all the modules in your car.
I planned this to be a 4 week project. 1 week to research the swap, 1 week to get the parts, 1 weekend to do the swap (my friend is a freaking pro btw), and 1 week to finish up and code the car. This didn't turn out like I wanted it to... It took about 3 weeks to get all the parts and another 2 weeks to even begin the swap. Also, be prepared to leave yourself a couple of days without a car at least. I have my super awesome E23 beater car so transportation wasn't my main concern but if it's yours, plan ahead. I know that I had to run to the store multiple times during the swap for random things so you definitely will need access to another car during the conversion.
Use Ivegotissues666's DIY for the mechanical side of the swap, the part for swapping the transmission:
DIY: Auto <---> 5 Speed Swap Lots of Pixs!!!
Or use mine, Which starts here:
_
Ok, you are ready to begin your E46 manual conversion. You will need a well lit area with a lot of space. I chose my garage as I could just pull my car in diagonally and leave it there safely over the course of the swap.
Preparation:
Get the car on ramps and or jack stands. I got ahold of 4 jackstands and a good jack. I used the factory jackpoints in the rear of the car and in the front, I put the jackstands on the frame rails. Put your e-brake on as you don't want the car rolling around while you are jacking up on it.
Step 1:
When I was reading Ivegotissues666's DIY, he recommended removing the drivers seat in order to have easier access for installing the clutch pedal. I decided that this was a waste of time but let me tell you, you really should remove the drivers seat. If you choose not to remove the seat, at least move the seat all the way back and recline it all the way. Next, remove the negative cable to your car battery.
Step 2:
You will need to start out by removing the exhaust. There are two hangers in the rear of the car holding the muffler in (4 - 13mm nuts) and two braces halfway down the exhaust (8 - 13 mm bolts). Moving your way up to the exhaust manifold, there are 4 - 13mm nuts that hold the exhaust on. These will more than likely be seized on so you might need a blow torch. I was lucky and they came loose without a fuss.
Step 3:
Removing the heatshields! This was the easiest part of the swap in my opinion, there are 4 - 13mm bolts holding the larger heatshield on that covers most of the driveshaft. The other smaller heatshield has 3 - 10mm nuts I believe.
Heatsheilds removed! To make it simple just remove the 3 bolts from the driveshaft to the flex disc (aka guibo) leaving the flex disc still attached to the transmission with give you something to hold onto while pulling the transmission out. I wasnt thinking when I was removing the driveshaft and just wasted my time removing the other 3 bolts that attach the guibo to the transmission. The bolts and nuts are 18mm, you will need two 18mm wrenches.
Hex nuts holding the center mount and bearing in place.
Differential bolts (These are inverse torx bolts, don't remember the size)
Driveshaft removed!
Step 4:
Removing the transmission. It is recommended that you support the transmission with a jack when you are taking out the bell housing bolts. I found that the bell housing is so seized on the engine, that you don't need to support the transmission at all. If you only have one floor jack, put it under the A/C compressor with a piece of wood on the jack pad to distribute the stress and jack up on the front of the motor. This allows you to have easier access to the top 2 transmission bolts. Remove the engine support brace to tilt the engine and transmission in order to access the bolts on top of the bell housing though.
Disconnecting the gear selector cable.
Disconnecting the Autos wiring harnesses.
Ok, now the fun part. You need to remove the oil cooler lines that run into the side of the transmission. These are a PITA! They pour oil everywhere! You push in on the locking clip and turn it to remove the lines. One of the clips wouldn't release on my swap so I just ended up cutting the rubber line and leaving the connector on there. No harm done
You do not need to remove the starter bolts. Once the bolts are removed at the top of the bell housing the transmission will come free without the starter attached.
In order to remove some of the bell housing bolts you will need like 10 socket extensions though. Roughly enough to run the entire length of the transmission. Make sure to be very careful when you are removing the bell housing bolts, if you are not using the correct size socket, it will literally ruin your day.
Before you drop the transmission, you will need to remove the gear selector. So wash your hands (you wouldn't want to get grease all over your clean interior) and move inside of your car!
First off, open the top compartment in your center console. You can pull out on it and it will slide out fairly easily. There are 2 screws holding the compartments (for lack of the correct word) in. You will need to get this piece out in order to remove the steptronic assembly. Once you remove the connectors to the window switches and such, there are 3 hex head bolts holding the steptronic assembly in. You will need to disconnect the parking lock cable in order to take the assembly out of the car. Just use a small flat head screwdriver and pry the clip aside. It doesn't matter if you bend it right? Its not like you need this steptronic shifter anymore...
Now back under the car looking at the front of the transmission you will see this little rubber plug called an access plug. Remove this and you can see the torque converter. There are 3 bolts bolting the flywheel to the torque converter. In order to visually see them you have to turn the crankshaft in order to see them in the access hole. Once you see them use your socket, I believe it was a 17mm bolt
In order to manually turn the crankshaft, get a 22mm socket on the front of the crank and have a buddy use a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft until the torque converter bolts come into sight.
Autotragic out! This thing was super heavy and we had to lay it on its side in order to slide it out from underneath the car.
That's the 1st half of the swap - Removal of old parts
This thread is going to be oriented more towards the process side of the swap rather than the DIY. I will include my own documentation and pictures of the swap but there will not be as much detail in the mechanical side as Ivegotissues666's DIY. If you have a hard time following DIYs and filling in possible gaps in information, you might want to invest in a Bentley manual.
Here are all my resources I used:
www.realOEM.com<---------------------------------- Part number lookup
https://cardiagn.com/bmw-wiring-diagram-system-wds/<------ BMW WDS (every wiring diagram)
Members I referred to for help. Thanks to you guys VERY much
- Ivegotissues666
- SammyV
- Navin323i
I decided to go for the swap because I plan to keep my car for a very long time and selling it was unrealistic for me. I've already put about $4000 in this car, replacing just about everything and making this car pretty much brand new. We will start with prices:
If you are a DIY kind of person, you can expect to pull the swap for about $2500. This includes pretty much all OEM parts, some aftermarket.
OEM Parts:
- Transmission ~15k miles---------$485----------------------------Local BMW Salvage yard
- Sachs Clutch---------------------- $247-------------------------- TurnerMotorsport
- OEM Luk flywheel------------------$385---------------------------Autozone
- New OEM driveshaft--------------$610.04------------------------BMW Dealership
Various OEM parts - BMW Dealership / Tischer / TurnerMotorsport
I'm just the kind of person who likes to buy new used things so I hunted for the best transmission I could find for the price. It came from a 1998 BMW 328i. I checked on realOEM and it has the same model and part number, exactly for my 328Ci. After I did the shift pin service on it, I realized that the car it came out of might have been a 1998, but the transmission itself is wayyy newer. Because it doesn't have a VIN number on the transmission and the build date on it is newer. My guess is that the previous owner of this transmission had a problem and BMW just replaced the transmission rather than doing the 5th/reverse gear detent fix. I guess that's what BMW did back in the day before they decided to make TSBs...
Back on track: Then I started to buy the goodies, new OEM Luk flywheel from Autozone. Proceeded to buy the OEM Sachs Clutch kit from TurnerMotorsport for $250 and added a SS Clutch line. I felt like doing the swap right the first time so I also threw in the UUC EVO3 + DSSR from Turner. Bought all new parts and pieces from my friend at the dealer, which I got for around $500. This doesn't include the rear main seal kit or transmission repair kit to fix the "stick rests at 5th gear" problem. The driveshaft I COULD NOT find anywhere, so I had to buy a brand new one from my friend at the BMW dealer. $610.04... damn. Oh well, at least I don't have to worry about bad U-joints or a bent shaft. If you need to replace you rear main seal, tack on another $150 because if you neglect to replace a leaking seal, your clutch will slip because of all the oil so just go ahead and assume that the entire parts list comes around to a total of $3000 properly done. Also, a known problem with these manual transmissions is the "shifter rests at 5th gear" problem. There is a TSB out for this and if you decide to repair your transmission, tack on another $50 to the entire cost. Your transmission will feel brand new and yeah, do it.
If you decide to do the 5th/reverse fix, it's very wise to fix the shifter pins as well because the transmission is already out. There are 3 shifter pins plus the pins for 5th/reverse.
Here are the parts you need:
- Reverse gear/5th gear fix
- Qty 2 - Repair kit: 23 11 7 542 726
- Locking pins: 23 31 7 502 165 / 23 31 1 224 849
- Shift pin service
- Qty 3 - Repair kit: 23 11 7 525 048
- Qty 3 - Sealing caps: 23 31 7 222 988
And the DIY:
Sticky shifter on the M Coupe...Common problem?
Stick rests at 5th gear when cold
transmission work at the Forbes' place <-------- real DIY with good pictures
--------------------------------------------
All in all, DIY total comes around to $3000... this includes the UUC EVO3 SSK that I also purchased from TurnerMotorsports (I figured I could buy one nice aftermarket piece right?). The new driveshaft came with the guibo but if you find a good used driveshaft, you will still need to buy a new guibo. You also need new manual transmission fluid so tack on another $35 to that price. Like I said before, if you shop smart, you can do the conversion for under $2500, it might be less if you can find a good used driveshaft... It might be a lot more if you decide that you need the UUC stage 2 flywheel/M5 clutch combo! It really doesn't matter though, the swap will still be around $2500-3000 DIY or $4000-5000 professionally done.
For an average person like me, DIY is the way to go. I cannot afford having a shop do this for me, as it would cost into 5k as some of the members here have posted. I simply cant justify spending that much, half of that is ok...
We will start with a parts list. This is for my 328Ci so if you have a 323/325/330, these parts will have different parts number. This is PRETTY MUCH the Official 5 Speed parts list. The ones listed in bold are special order parts so good luck getting most of them at your local BMW parts counter. Prices are listed next to the parts, most of them are from Pelican parts or BavAuto. Some of the bigger parts you can get at BMA Parts. All of the prices are listed considering the quantity of the parts. So those are the prices for those listed numbers of parts.
5 speed parts list Prices
Gearbox Support:
- 1 - GEARBOX SUPPORT------------------------22 31 6 769 911------$37.95
- 4 - HEX BOLT WITH WASHER-------------22 31 1 091 785------$4
Linkage Parts
- 1 - SHIFTING ARM ---------------------------- 25 11 1 434 109-----$19.95
- 1 - BUSH BEARING OVAL --------------------- 25 11 7 507 695-----$2.95
- 1 - BEARING BOLT ---------------------------- 25 11 1 221 849-----$4.95
- 1 - BEARING, SHIFTING ARM ---------------- 25 11 1 222 015-----$16.95
- 1 - BEARING, SHIFT LEVER ------------------ 25 11 1 220 600-----$10
- 1 - RUBBER BOOT ---------------------------- 25 11 7 522 149-----$18
- 4 - PLASTIC WASHER ------------------------- 25 11 1 220 439----$2
- 2 - CIRCLIP -------------------------------------25 11 1 220 379----$1.85
- 1 - GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT --------------------25 11 1 222 688----$13.95
Pedal Assembly
- 1 - BRAKE PEDAL ---------------------------- 35 20 6 752 649------$30.95
- 1 - RUBBER PAD ----------------------------- 35 21 1 160 422------$4.95
- 3 - FLAT FUSES ------------------------------ 07 12 9 934 921 ----- $3
- 4 - BUSH BEARING -------------------------- 35 21 1 158 290 ----- $8
- 4 - GROMMET -------------------------------- 35 41 1 113 728------ $4
- 1 - RETURN SPRING -------------------------35 30 1 165 321 ----- $1
- 1 - CLUTCH SWITCH STARTLOCK------------61 31 8 363 710 -----$40
- 1 - CLUTCH PEDAL -------------------------- 35 31 1 163 870 ----- $36
- 1 - PIN, MASTER CYLINDER -----------------35 31 1 163 874------$3
- 1 - RUBBER PAD -----------------------------35 21 1 108 634------ $4.95
- 1 - CLIP -------------------------------------- 51 48 8 245 867------$1
Flywheel
- 1 - GROOVED BALL BEARING ----------------11 21 1 720 310-----$9.95
Clutch
- 1 - BALL PIN ---------------------------------- 21 51 1 223 328-----$1.95
- 6 - FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW------------------07 11 9 901 023-----$6
Clutch Control
- 1 - INPUT CYLINDER CLUTCH ----------- 21 52 6 758 822 -----$68
- 1 - HEX BOLT --------------------------------- 07 11 9 901 539 ----- $.95
- 1 - HEX BOLT M6X45 --------------------- 07 11 9 912 324 ---- $.95
- 1 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ---------------- 07 12 9 900 191 ----- $1
- 1 - PIN, MASTER CYLINDER ----------------- 35 31 1 163 874 ----- $1.25
- 1 - GROMMET -------------------------------- 21 52 1 156 082 ----- $1.50
- 1 - PIPE -------------------------------------- 21 52 6 753 332 ----- $18
- 1 - SUPPORT PRESSURE HOSE---------------21 52 1 163 906 ----- $1
- 1 - RUBBER GROMMET--------------------21 52 1 165 819 ---- $1.50
- 1 - CLIP -------------------------------------- 34 34 1 163 565 ----- $1
- 1 - PIPE -------------------------------------- 21 52 6 774 230 ----- $17.50
- 2 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ------------ 07 12 9 904 877 ---- $2
- 2 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ---------------- 07 12 9 906 196 ----- $2
- 1 - GROMMET -------------------------------- 21 52 1 163 894 ----- $1.50
- 1 - PIPE CLIP -------------------------------- 16 12 1 176 767 ------ $1
- 1 - MODULE, CLUTCH SWITCH-----------61 31 6 905 900 ---- $35
- 2 - ADAPTER LEAD ---------------------------61 11 6 911 072 ----- $14
- 1 - HOSE ------------------------------------- 21 52 1 163 714 ----- $9.75
Driveshaft Components
- 6 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------26 11 7 523 709-----$18
- 6 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ---------------- 07 12 9 900 047-----$6
Exhaust Suspension
- 1 - BRACKET -----------------------------------18 31 1 728 254--------
- 2 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------- 07 11 9 901 120
- 4 - RUBBER BUSHING ------------------------ 18 20 7 546 579
- 2 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------- 07 11 9 913 111
- 2 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ----------------- 07 12 9 964 675 - total - $17
- 1 - EXHAUST SUPPORT ----------------------- 18 30 1 436 331
- 1 - CLAMP LOWER ---------------------------- 18 10 1 433 250
- 1 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------- 07 11 9 904 533--------
Gearbox Mounting
- 2 - TORX BOLT -------------------------------- 23 00 1 222 891-------
- 2 - TORX BOLT -------------------------------- 23 00 1 222 894
- 3 - TORX BOLT -------------------------------- 23 00 1 222 887 - total - $10
- 1 - HEX BOLT ----------------------------------07 11 9 904 094
- 2 - DOWEL ------------------------------------ 11 11 7 524 470
- 2 - TORX BOLT ---------------------------------07 12 9 904 681-------
Parts you might need if they don't already come with the transmission
- 1 - OUTPUT CYLINDER,CLUTCH---------------21 52 6 766 279 --------$50.91
- 1 - CLUTCH REL.FORK LEVER-----------------21 51 1 223 302
- 1 - VENT SCREW ----------------------------- 21 52 1 116 360
- 1 - DUST CAP -------------------------------- 34 11 1 153 198
- 1 - UNIVERSAL JOINT ----------------------- 26 11 7 511 454
- 1 - Center Mount -----------------------------26 12 7 501 257
- 1 - Twin Mass Flywheel ---------------------- 21 21 7 512 474
- 1 - SPRING CLIP ----------------------------- 21 51 1 223 234
- 1 - SPRING CLIP ----------------------------- 21 51 7 570 284
I went back and I also noticed I forgot to add these parts:
- 2 - Exhaust gasket(FLAT GASKET)-----------18 30 1 440 183------$10.88
- ~ - assorted electrical connectors
- 10 - BMW replacement temperature sensor wire connectors (trust me)
You also will need to get the shifter knob of your choice, I opted for the weighted ZHP knob from Tischer. Also, you need the manual shifter boot, I also got that from Tischer.
You will need 2 liters of manual transmission fluid as well. After a lot of research I decided to get RP Synchromax from my local Napa Auto store. When I bought the transmission from my local salvage yard, I guess they drained the fluid from the transmission, because there was no fluid when we went to flush it and fill it with Royal Purple. btw, the Synchromax feels great, shifts are so smooth and I have no problems with any of the shifter gates/shift pins. I haven't driven more than 200 miles since the swap so I cant tell you how RP is in the long run but I'll let you know.
The last part I forgot to get until the last minute was the clutch alignment tool for self adjusting clutches or SACs. The SAC uses a special tool unlike regular sprung clutch assemblies. You can get the tool from Pelican Parts for $17. That's where I got it from but I needed overnight shipping so the total came to around $40. It's the tool in the picture of the shift knob + shift boot.
I cross-referenced these part numbers with the realOEM part printouts I already had and came up with prices and updated part numbers and such. You should do the same. Btw, I'm not liable for any mis-ordered parts. Use this list at your discretion.
_
Here is a picture of the manual transmission. This is after I soaked it in purple power degreaser and scrubbed it down. It was really clean when I first picked it up though. Be sure to get the same transmission realOEM says is for your car. My car used a ZF S5D 320Z THMW, the car I got if from used the exact transmission. The only difference between most of the transmissions you will find is the 4 letter combination at the end, I'm not sure if its a final drive ratio code or something but I didn't want to mess around and experiment. Here are a bunch of pictures!!
UUC EVO3 SSK + DSSR!!!
Before you do this swap, you should be very schooled in the electronics of E46s. I read up on everything I needed to know in advance. Neutral safety switch, reverse lights, recoding all the modules with the GT1, ect. KNOW your stuff before you get involved in the swap otherwise you might regret it later. Use the link to the WDS I linked so you can study up!
The electronic side of the swap involves getting this information from your car:
SA code
GM
VN
Then removing the automatic transmission option from the SA and recompiling the SA to that of a manual transmission car. Then you reapply the SA into the car and recode all the modules to a manual transmission. You will need access to a BMW GT1 or Autologic system. I used the one at my local BMW dealership but if you don't have access. Just kindly ask your service manager to help you out and do the coding. It will probably cost you 2 hours of labor or just the flat rate fee of re-flashing your car's ECU. There is no need to replace your ECU or replace your instrument cluster or anything. Just have to recode all the modules in your car.
I planned this to be a 4 week project. 1 week to research the swap, 1 week to get the parts, 1 weekend to do the swap (my friend is a freaking pro btw), and 1 week to finish up and code the car. This didn't turn out like I wanted it to... It took about 3 weeks to get all the parts and another 2 weeks to even begin the swap. Also, be prepared to leave yourself a couple of days without a car at least. I have my super awesome E23 beater car so transportation wasn't my main concern but if it's yours, plan ahead. I know that I had to run to the store multiple times during the swap for random things so you definitely will need access to another car during the conversion.
Use Ivegotissues666's DIY for the mechanical side of the swap, the part for swapping the transmission:
DIY: Auto <---> 5 Speed Swap Lots of Pixs!!!
Or use mine, Which starts here:
_
Ok, you are ready to begin your E46 manual conversion. You will need a well lit area with a lot of space. I chose my garage as I could just pull my car in diagonally and leave it there safely over the course of the swap.
Preparation:
Get the car on ramps and or jack stands. I got ahold of 4 jackstands and a good jack. I used the factory jackpoints in the rear of the car and in the front, I put the jackstands on the frame rails. Put your e-brake on as you don't want the car rolling around while you are jacking up on it.
Step 1:
When I was reading Ivegotissues666's DIY, he recommended removing the drivers seat in order to have easier access for installing the clutch pedal. I decided that this was a waste of time but let me tell you, you really should remove the drivers seat. If you choose not to remove the seat, at least move the seat all the way back and recline it all the way. Next, remove the negative cable to your car battery.
Step 2:
You will need to start out by removing the exhaust. There are two hangers in the rear of the car holding the muffler in (4 - 13mm nuts) and two braces halfway down the exhaust (8 - 13 mm bolts). Moving your way up to the exhaust manifold, there are 4 - 13mm nuts that hold the exhaust on. These will more than likely be seized on so you might need a blow torch. I was lucky and they came loose without a fuss.
Step 3:
Removing the heatshields! This was the easiest part of the swap in my opinion, there are 4 - 13mm bolts holding the larger heatshield on that covers most of the driveshaft. The other smaller heatshield has 3 - 10mm nuts I believe.
Heatsheilds removed! To make it simple just remove the 3 bolts from the driveshaft to the flex disc (aka guibo) leaving the flex disc still attached to the transmission with give you something to hold onto while pulling the transmission out. I wasnt thinking when I was removing the driveshaft and just wasted my time removing the other 3 bolts that attach the guibo to the transmission. The bolts and nuts are 18mm, you will need two 18mm wrenches.
Hex nuts holding the center mount and bearing in place.
Differential bolts (These are inverse torx bolts, don't remember the size)
Driveshaft removed!
Step 4:
Removing the transmission. It is recommended that you support the transmission with a jack when you are taking out the bell housing bolts. I found that the bell housing is so seized on the engine, that you don't need to support the transmission at all. If you only have one floor jack, put it under the A/C compressor with a piece of wood on the jack pad to distribute the stress and jack up on the front of the motor. This allows you to have easier access to the top 2 transmission bolts. Remove the engine support brace to tilt the engine and transmission in order to access the bolts on top of the bell housing though.
Disconnecting the gear selector cable.
Disconnecting the Autos wiring harnesses.
Ok, now the fun part. You need to remove the oil cooler lines that run into the side of the transmission. These are a PITA! They pour oil everywhere! You push in on the locking clip and turn it to remove the lines. One of the clips wouldn't release on my swap so I just ended up cutting the rubber line and leaving the connector on there. No harm done
You do not need to remove the starter bolts. Once the bolts are removed at the top of the bell housing the transmission will come free without the starter attached.
In order to remove some of the bell housing bolts you will need like 10 socket extensions though. Roughly enough to run the entire length of the transmission. Make sure to be very careful when you are removing the bell housing bolts, if you are not using the correct size socket, it will literally ruin your day.
Before you drop the transmission, you will need to remove the gear selector. So wash your hands (you wouldn't want to get grease all over your clean interior) and move inside of your car!
First off, open the top compartment in your center console. You can pull out on it and it will slide out fairly easily. There are 2 screws holding the compartments (for lack of the correct word) in. You will need to get this piece out in order to remove the steptronic assembly. Once you remove the connectors to the window switches and such, there are 3 hex head bolts holding the steptronic assembly in. You will need to disconnect the parking lock cable in order to take the assembly out of the car. Just use a small flat head screwdriver and pry the clip aside. It doesn't matter if you bend it right? Its not like you need this steptronic shifter anymore...
Now back under the car looking at the front of the transmission you will see this little rubber plug called an access plug. Remove this and you can see the torque converter. There are 3 bolts bolting the flywheel to the torque converter. In order to visually see them you have to turn the crankshaft in order to see them in the access hole. Once you see them use your socket, I believe it was a 17mm bolt
In order to manually turn the crankshaft, get a 22mm socket on the front of the crank and have a buddy use a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft until the torque converter bolts come into sight.
Autotragic out! This thing was super heavy and we had to lay it on its side in order to slide it out from underneath the car.
That's the 1st half of the swap - Removal of old parts