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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:26 PM   #61
BMWinTheDriveway
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I'm not having any luck locating a 5hp19 valve body overhaul /rebuild kit, only a 5hp19 transmission overhaul kit
any suggestions for a source? I'm in California if it matters
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:26 PM   #62
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You can't get a valve body repair kit, but you can buy the parts individually for much cheaper than the overhaul kit. Have a look at the parts catalogue and see which parts are listed for the overhaul kit that go into the valve body. There aren't many. It will be less than $100. I would call Eriksson Industries and speak to Nat Wentworth there. He's about the most helpful bloke you could want to deal with.
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Old 08-24-2015, 01:22 PM   #63
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Usually my method of fixing stuff is 1. identify the problem 2. shop for solution parts/availability 3. procrastinate, if possible. 4. dig in to the work, ordering the part or parts whenever they can be safely identified, so I am now at step 3 until I can organize a spot in the garage to stick the car for however long it takes me to pull the VB out again.

jjrichar: You mentioned a reasonable method for re-using nearly new trans fluid and I'm on my 3rd fill in about a year so it should be pretty fresh, do you have a link or description of the procedure?
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:51 PM   #64
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The method is something I made up myself. I did it about four times with no problems. Best to do with oil warm so it drains easier.

-Do this in an area that is clean, no wind, no risk of anything being blown around etc.

-Clean bottom of pan around the drain plug so it's spotless. I used solvent and then compressed air.

-Use a clean drum for oil capture. I used a 20 litre drum that fresh transmission oil had recently come from. Large funnel also that has is perfectly clean.

-Have drum/funnel about 6 inches below drain plug.

-Remove drain plug and allow all to drain out.

-Insert drain plug. Remove funnel and cover (cling film). Cap on drum.

-Lower pan about 12 inches on transmission jack so everything drips into pan. Gently remove pan gasket. Gently clean gasket in solvent and then dry with compressed air. Don't leave soaked with oil.

-Remove filter and immediately cover in cling film to use later.

-Place drum/funnel just below drain plug and then remove drain plug.

-Lower valve body about 8mm on the 14 T40 bolts. Allow all the oil to drain into the pan and then into the drum. When all the oil has drained, tilt the pan towards the drain plug to get most of it in. A bit will remain in the pan due to the raised portion of the drain hole. If there is any heavy grit that has gone in there, it will stay at the bottom and not go in the drum.

-Remove funnel and cap drum.

I found this allowed me to get about 7 litres from the transmission to use, and only need about 500ml of additional fluid when refilling next time.
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:30 AM   #65
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Nice. Thanks! I guess I should wait to spend any money on replacing parts that aren't broken until I can see which ones appear dysfunctional, considering the 'kit' doesn't seem to have things I might need and does have things I won't need unless doing a total rebuild like a bunch of O-rings.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:58 PM   #66
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I can't find anything physically wrong with the vb except I need a new gasket since I tore up the one that was there.
everything looks brand new in there otherwise.. Ideas?

I have the newer style piston parts not the ones prone to rupture

Last edited by BMWinTheDriveway; 08-29-2015 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 08-30-2015, 01:02 AM   #67
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Have you tested the solenoids, and in particular EDS2. The symptoms you posted a while back to me sound like a C clutch problem. The latest video I posted has how to do this.

Also, if you have the valve body open, I would replace the O rings on the EDS solenoids and on the D and F clutch dampers plugs. The won't cost much and it's a good time to do them.
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:03 PM   #68
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Tested all the solenoids per your test procedure on this video It's at about 17:00 in for anyone following after...

All 6 check out normal (Green = no flow, +12V = flow; Black = flow, +12V = no flow), though none of them flow any through the hole between the electrical connectors, only through the neck of the solenoid through either large or small holes. (7th I just checked for the 'click', haven't removed it from the small valve body yet.

The Solenoid O-rings seem loose, there is about 100% more width than necessary in the channel they are sitting in, but all of them are that same way so I assume that is normal.

The fluid with only 2-3,000 miles on it ( ~1 year ) was pretty murky and there was a light coating of black "tar" on the transmission pan magnets in that time as well, so I will put fresh in when I get back to that point.

California has outlawed cleaning supplies such as mineral spirits so not sure what is a good substitute other than brake cleaner to get the old fluid off.

Misc. observations:
When I removed the gasket from the divider in the VB, the divider has a spot where clearly a human has vigorously rubbed something off- a scuffed area in the middle of the stainless steel plate. The gasket stuck pretty good to a couple of spots on the plate, so I have a wonder about that.
The screen on the inlet portion of the green solenoids turns freely, while the black (gasketed) solenoids is fixed in place.

Transmission fluid sprays all over the place at 60psi

Part #s for future ref:
Gasket 1060 327 075
O-ring 0734 313 190 (2)
O-ring 0734 313 219 (3)
O-ring 0634 316 523
found the gasket for $4.99 but no luck so far on the O-rings
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Last edited by BMWinTheDriveway; 08-30-2015 at 05:45 PM. Reason: adding part #s
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Old 08-30-2015, 06:36 PM   #69
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I don't understand why the MV solenoids (green) aren't venting out the port between the contacts. They definitely should like the picture below. Blocked maybe? Try cleaning.

Other things.
EDS solenoid O rings are loose when fitted, but require a bit of force and twisting to fit. If they are easy to push in they won't seal very well. Old ones are hard. New are much softer and flexible.
I would only re-use fluid when the stuff coming out looks the same as what is going in. Good idea to replace. A bit of black/grey sludge on the magnets is fine.
I use fuel to clean everything. Cheap and works perfectly.
An old gasket will stick very well to the channel plate. That seems to be normal. I've re-used a new one again after it separated very easily.
Don't know about the screen on the MV solenoids rotating. I'll test on the spares at home and get back to you.


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Old 08-30-2015, 07:03 PM   #70
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curiosity..
under the damper piston is a mark that looks like damage from impact right in the center.

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Old 08-30-2015, 07:20 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWinTheDriveway View Post


Part #s for future ref:
Gasket 1060 327 075
O-ring 0734 313 190 (2)
O-ring 0734 313 219 (3)
O-ring 0634 316 523
found the gasket for $4.99 but no luck so far on the O-rings

Contact

Eriksson Industries, division of Wentworth Engineering Inc.
146 B Elm Street
Old Saybrook, CT 06475
800-388-4418

They are very accomodating. They will sell you any 5hp19 part available, with no minimum and reasonable shipping.

They may have what you need.


.

Last edited by BMWCaptain; 09-02-2015 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:47 PM   #72
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mv solenoids are venting but the volume is too small to feel unless there is some liquid in there

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Old 08-31-2015, 01:11 AM   #73
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When I tested the MV solenoids I have, it vented at high pressure with barely any restriction.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:13 AM   #74
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CobraTransmission has a valve body kit they sell for the 5hp19 for about $175.00.

Not sure if it is a kit or just all the parts put together for a kit. It looks like it includes the springs found with each valve. Even the 5hp19 Master Kit doesnt include the springs.
..
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:32 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
When I tested the MV solenoids I have, it vented at high pressure with barely any restriction.
Like I noted, I was unable to "feel" any air coming through at 60psi, then the solenoid popped off the hose and went flying, haha, hope I didn't damage anything. When I dropped some soapy water into the screen it sprayed out a mist through the vent hole but it was definitely restricted.

Looking over the diagram I realized I should also replace the O-rings on the connector tubes from the transmission to/from the valve body; Lots of expensive rubber bands... The ones on the piece that stays stuck to the transmission are a little raggedy feeling.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:26 PM   #76
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BMWin, I did a bit more testing on the solenoids this morning to clarify what happens when you apply power. The picture above is a bit misleading. Whilst the summary below the picture is correct, the picture could make you think that when you apply air to the nose of the solenoid without power, air should come out the back hole. This is incorrect. My apologies for possibly feeding you incorrect information. If you apply air to the rear exhaust hole without power applied, it will come out of the neck holes and not from the snout. I suspect your solenoids are working correctly. Below is an adjusted diagram.


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Old 09-01-2015, 05:31 PM   #77
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Aye, that's good. Solenoids are much more expensive to replace than O-rings and gaskets
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:33 PM   #78
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If you need all solenoids. I hive a complete set to sell.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:30 PM   #79
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I ordered all the O-rings and a new gasket for the Valve Body from Erikkson Industries in CT, about a week to get here. Update once I'm back together.
I did not order new O-rings for the wiring harness/transmission connection as it was not leaking and I am not yet convinced I won't have to purchase a new harness at some point.
They seem still pretty flexy but I won't know if they are contracted/stiff compared to the new until the new stuff comes in. I pulled one off a EDS solenoid and it looked OK save the damage I caused pulling it off with a metal tweezer (could see it through a 20x loupe)
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:29 PM   #80
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Whilst the parts are coming, I would suggest testing all the signals coming from the TCM. If you are worried about the harness, see what is being sent to the TCM in the way of speeds etc and give the harness and plugs a good wiggle/squeeze etc to see if there is something not quite right. I also pressure tested all the solenoids with the signal sent from the TCM to see if this was OK. Be aware when doing this that everything needs to be connected otherwise the TCM says no to everything.
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