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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:42 PM   #121
mrmaico
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Great DIY and lots of helpful info! I seem to have a unique problem though, about a week ago my OEM alarm on my 04 coupe started going off at random times. First thing I checked was the hood switch, tried both unhooking it and leaving the hood open but neither seemed to make a difference.

Next step was I fired up the laptop and DIS showed 32 instances of fault codes for the drivers door lock mechanism. I ran through the diagnostics on DIS for the fault but it didn't find any issues. It was a pretty basic test though, tests to see if the lock cylinder is showing locked-unlocked and whether the door is showing as closed-open. If the fault is random though I don't expect this would have found any issues.

I assume it must be a bad switch or contact in the door lock/latch mechanism? I have a new mechanism I ordered and have just been checking the forums today for any info/diy's. I hate to replace the mechanism if that isn't the problem but I don't see what else it could be. Anyone ran across anything like this before?

Thanks......Barry
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:31 AM   #122
hk_e46
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this diy come in handy while replace the Left door Actuator (on RHD model).
with the help of the youtube video, manage only to release 2 nuts and 1 screws for the glass regulator and rail bolts.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:41 AM   #123
jolaine
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Anyone know what this wedge looking aluminum part is? Half of it was at the bottom of my door. Can it be bought separately or is it part of the window regulator?? I can't find it on realoem..

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachm...9&d=1262467451

Last edited by jolaine; 07-01-2014 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:24 AM   #124
paraklas
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It's the part that holds the glass on the up/down mechanism
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:03 AM   #125
Bhorvat
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New drivers side actuator - new locking problems

Ok so I've read every thread on here trying to figure out why the door on my 2004 M3 won't open even though the actuator is working properly. I tried everything! Played with the outside level adjustment screw, double check the cable attachment points, ensured the key lock receiver was in the right position, everything seemed to be in place but I still couldn't open the door after closing, locking, and unlocking the door. I basically had to give the door an ultimate shake down just to get it to open and therefore drove it around for a week leaving it unlocked. Talk about unerving.

This morning I decided to take the door apart again and try to figure out what in the heck was going on. After I disassembled and reassembled everything I still had the same problem. I decided to reach my hand up in the door to verify the outside lever was properly engaged with the cable, low and behold I discovered the cable was twisted into a loop. I easily untwisted it and it snapped right back into its original position. Like it wanted to be there. Viola!!!!! That was the problem. Basically the loop in the cable was cinching up every time I pulled the outside handle not allowing it to open the door.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Door and locks work like a charm.
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Old 09-21-2014, 08:14 PM   #126
John in VA
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Originally Posted by Bhorvat View Post
I easily untwisted it and it snapped right back into its original position. Like it wanted to be there. Viola!!!!! That was the problem.
Congrats on the fix! Love me some viola!!

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Old 09-24-2014, 12:04 PM   #127
mikeetastic
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subscribe..

@TS - can you update the pictures please?
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:44 PM   #128
shaunster
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I don't suppose anyone has the pictures for this DIY Saves, or knows of another DIY with pics?

Every other website and thread I have seen point to this one.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:04 AM   #129
paraklas
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Pictures are still online, I'll check with the hosting provider
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:29 AM   #130
PancakeBimmer
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@paraklas Did you pull apart your old door lock actuator? I am curious as to what is inside that could fail.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:45 AM   #131
mrmaico
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Pictures are still online, I'll check with the hosting provider
Thanks for fixing the pics!
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:36 PM   #132
civic44
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I just tackled this job this afternoon. Here are some observations:

- I didn't disconnect the battery
- I didn't remove the airbag
- I only peeled away part of the plastic
- I didn't remove the glass mount on the rail, as I didn't have a female torx bit. This might have made it harder to remove the actuator.
- I left the window all the way up the whole time.
- There is only one way I could figure out to force out the old actuator, which I figured out by looking at the new unit and the space I was working in. It involved a lot of swearing.
- I had a lot of trouble popping out the inner door handle cable. It was in there pretty tight.
- I followed the suggestion to connect the door pin shaft in before installing the new unit. Unfortunately, it popped out once everything else was plugged in. I had the hardest time getting it back in.
- I had everything reinstalled, and when I went to try it out, I realized the outer door handle would not open the door. There was almost no resistance when I pulled the handle. I took the door panel off again and reached inside. I could feel that the outer handle cable had popped out and managed to pop it back in. While reassembling everything, I accidentally had the door pin shaft pop out on me. I again managed to get it back in, with more swearing.
- When I got it all back together again, it all seemed to work fine. I had spent 3 hours on this by this point... I went to pick up my son at daycare, and while lowering the window, it caught on something on the way down. From this point on, the lock did not work at all with the remote or the button. I concluded I had improperly routed the electric plug and that the sliding window had unplugged it. When I took the panel off (again!), I realized this was the case. If you pop the sort of plastic tie-wrap into the hole in the door for this purpose, you have routed it correctly.
- Everything seems to work now. I am quite dirty and a bit scratched up. I wished I had smaller hands while doing this job.
- I wish anyone trying this good luck, but it is doable, even for people with very average skills, like myself.

Last edited by civic44; 12-09-2014 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:40 PM   #133
DEADF15H
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Paraklas , I'm sure this job took twice as long to do 6 years ago, your efforts are much appreciated. Photos make a huge difference

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Old 05-21-2015, 09:15 AM   #134
Masud_Ali
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Well I tried this DIY but ended up with nothing.My door is still malfunctioning and does not get well.I want to thank you for your guide but i dont know where i made mistake and did wrong placements.I think now i have to call emergency locksmith to make my door work again.Well i am not going to repair my lock next time, unless i am well aware of what to do._nr_
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:05 PM   #135
GabeB
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What a pain in the rear but I finished it after a comfortable 5 hours or so with a run to Lowes to extract one of the 3 T30s that hold it in place after rounding it over. I pulled like crazy on the window regulator to get it out of the way and finally got it out. I assembled it easily but the door cable got bent and the door wouldn't open. So, I spent about 30 minutes playing with it to get it to open. Then the door pin kept falling out when putting the cover back on. But, I spent 5 hours less with my mother in law and saved a few hundred.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:39 PM   #136
TynPar
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8 years later, the DIY is still fantastic, thanks everyone!

I was able to do this twice in about an hour. Why twice?... I accidentally put the old one back in...

But this is not a hard job at all on my 01 vert, way easier than the e36s I've done in the past. One tip, have a vice grip ready for removing the t30 screws, because they strip really easily.
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:42 AM   #137
zophar
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Good DYI for sure.
I did a write up on how to disassemble and possibly repair the mechanism a few weeks ago.
The type of connection used on the motors inside it is, well, less than satisfactory.
Two prongs that easily get corroded or just burnt from poor connectivity. Simple fix if you have a few hours to burn.
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:10 PM   #138
GmbH
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Hi,
I read your post about replacing the door actuator. I have removed all bolts on my 01 m3 and can't seem to find an e30 torx female bit. You mentioned that a 6mm socket works! Do you know if that does the trick? Thanks for your input!
Justin
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:12 PM   #139
rednex
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Great write-up, thank you so much for putting it together. Did this on the driver side Saturday night and it only took me 2 hours start to finish because of the work you guys have put in here with the help. my keyfob works again.
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Old 01-15-2018, 03:55 PM   #140
raenglehart
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My son and I did this job in about 45 minutes. Thanks for the detailed info. For anyone else, here's what our problem was:

Manually key open the driver door and it unlocked, turn again, passenger unlocked (as it should). However, push the key fob (new key btw) the locks would actuate but the driver side would not come up/unlock. I can hear the door actuator click, but no movement on the lock/unlock arm itself. I have half a mind to open up my bad actuator just to see what is the fault........maybe one day when I'm out of stuff to do (in 40 years.......lol). I bet it's some simple plastic bit inside there that is broken. Anyhow, now on to the removal of the headliner to re-skin it.
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