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Old 08-02-2019, 09:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armenh7 View Post
By less heat, I meant radiant over actual fluid temperatures.

Ebay turbo. A little too small for a M54B30 as the engine swap happened last moment and the turbo was the first thing I had bought. I believe it can be referenced as a "57mm exhaust 62mm intake." It's a 0.57 A_R.

Since the turbo is pretty small, the benefit is pretty much instant boost but the downside is it chokes at high rpm near redline
that must be a .57 ar compressor, I'm assuming. What's the turbine?
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Old 08-02-2019, 09:43 AM   #22
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that must be a .57 ar compressor, I'm assuming. What's the turbine?
Compressor:
Trim: 55
A/R: .5
Inducer: 50.5
Exducer: 76
Turbine:
Trim: 73
A/R: .63
Inducer: 65.5
Exducer: 55.9
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:11 AM   #23
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I used to have a 325 auto. I bought a wrecked manual 330ci and swapped the engine, transmission, and rear subframe in.



I forgot to safety wire the opn on but it shouldn't be that big of s deal because I have no reason to raise my redline from 6500.
Did you even loctite it? The vibration alone is enough to pump your nut, and the increased spinn action from the turbo may exacerbate that. just saying.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:10 PM   #24
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Did you even loctite it? The vibration alone is enough to pump your nut, and the increased spinn action from the turbo may exacerbate that. just saying.
I felt that it's better untouched than to loosen and retighten. My b25 was pretty much at redline all day and it was tight on there
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:22 PM   #25
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Great job, Armen! Any plans to get it on a dyno?

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Did you even loctite it? The vibration alone is enough to pump your nut, and the increased spinn action from the turbo may exacerbate that. just saying.
Wat.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:24 PM   #26
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Great job, Armen! Any plans to get it on a dyno?



Wat.
Thank you.

I do want to go on a dyno just because it'll help a lot with tuning since I'll know if I'm making more power or not. The butt dyno can only give you so much information
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:28 PM   #27
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I felt that it's better untouched than to loosen and retighten. My b25 was pretty much at redline all day and it was tight on there
B25 has a different crank though.

B30 has the M3 crank.

Also it's not always due to miles. Our grand leader here (former) had his fall off brand new from the dealer.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:31 PM   #28
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B25 has a different crank though.

B30 has the M3 crank.

Also it's not always due to miles. Our grand leader here (former) had his fall off brand new from the dealer.
I know the cranks are different and the B30 crank exerts more vibrations. That's why a lower redline gives a higher safe zone
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:37 PM   #29
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Just saying... B30=addressing the nut is better than not. particularly when boosted.

your call.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:37 PM   #30
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Thank you.

I do want to go on a dyno just because it'll help a lot with tuning since I'll know if I'm making more power or not. The butt dyno can only give you so much information
Well in situ electronic tuning aids (g-meters, etc) are a lot more sophisticated now than they used to be. So there's no real need to rely on the butt dyno... A dyno is a nice controlled environment where you can test one thing at a time, though.


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B25 has a different crank though.

B30 has the M3 crank.

Also it's not always due to miles. Our grand leader here (former) had his fall off brand new from the dealer.
Mango how hard is it just to say "Good job" to someone who's done a project you'll never do, without the concern-trolling?
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:15 PM   #31
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Just saying... B30=addressing the nut is better than not. particularly when boosted.

your call.
The weak point isn't even the but. Sure, it can back off but if it's strengtehend, the next thing that happens is the sprocket shears off. That's due to a worn out tensioner. The real fix is putting a new chain and tensioner so there's no slack
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:16 PM   #32
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Well in situ electronic tuning aids (g-meters, etc) are a lot more sophisticated now than they used to be. So there's no real need to rely on the butt dyno... A dyno is a nice controlled environment where you can test one thing at a time, though.




Mango how hard is it just to say "Good job" to someone who's done a project you'll never do, without the concern-trolling?
Good point. With those tuning aids, there are still a lot of variables. Speeding on the roads is a major issue.
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Old 08-02-2019, 06:41 PM   #33
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Would you mind sharing the total cost up to this point?
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Old 08-03-2019, 12:21 AM   #34
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Would you mind sharing the total cost up to this point?
I did have a spreadsheet keeping track of everything but stopped updating it. Around $3500 to $4000. That's with buying some parts new, some on sale, some from forums, etc. If I got a brand name manifold and turbo, those two alone would've been an additional $1-2000. Additionally, I got some fabrication at a low cost. I still need to get the rest of my exhaust made which could be an additional $400

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