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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 02-28-2017, 06:09 PM   #61
bryanjb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyki View Post
Oh right, I bought the harbor freight version of that tool a few years ago to disassemble an E36 and it lasted 3 ball joints before the threads jammed up. Could have been because I used my air gun on it but more than likely it was just junk to begin with. Crud. I've already got the drill bits and an ez-out kit, I think I'll try that first before buying yet another tool.
the HF is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

the first thing to do when putting the HF ball joint tool into service is grease or anti seize the crap out of the threads. using it without lube, given the forces, will gall up the threads and kill it. contrary to much HF stuff (kinda krappy) this is a good tool - the steel is very good quality. i've done many axle swaps for cracked boots, and it works without fail, without hurting the ball joint boot. using the HF tool, there isn't much clearance, so the nut has to come off after the ball taper has cracked loose. it is a good idea to really loosen the nut up well first. after the ball joint taper pops loose (it can be enough force to make a really loud bang), it may turn with the nut. i end up putting a bottle jack under the ball joint and pushing the taper back up just enough to keep the thing from spinning while i get the nut the rest of the way off. it sounds like more work than necessary, but with all the tools at hand, it works quickly and predictably - i've found no better way yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psyki View Post
Moved on to the passenger side, right away the head on the pinch bolt snapped off. At this point I'm perfectly willing to have a shop do the rest of the bearing work for me but I need to know how to remove the spindle with the strut still attached. Is it possible to spread the pinch enough to free the strut? Like the driver side, the bolt is probably corroded all the way through the pinch housing. Is it possible to cut the bolt through the gap without touching the strut tube with my angle grinder? I thought if I could free the control arm ball joint and detach the strut from the body I could move the spindle enough to pull the axle out but there isn't enough room to get my puller on the control arm joint with the axle in the way.
as far as getting the pinch bolt out using an easy-out, those are made from steel very much like the grade 10.9 bolt. if that high grade bolt broke, the easy out will not move it.

my bud with a 325xit like mine had the exact same thing happen, head broke off the knuckle / strut pinch bolt. there is no way to pull the knuckle off the strut while the bolt is in place, because the strut has a depression that the bolt keys into perpendicular. he ended up drilling it out from the head end so the knuckle would come off. the drill bit of choice would be one made of cobalt steel - HSS drill bits will wander and dull quickly on a grade 10.9 bolt. realoem.com (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0564) id'd the bolt thread diameter and pitch (M12X1,5X60-grade 10.9) to select the correct tap. it cleaned up just fine. Ace Hardware carries a good selection of inch fraction cobalt bits. 12mm is just less than 1/2", so a 7/16" or 15/32" *max* would clear the unthreaded portion well. he also made sure to not drill into the region with the threads. once the knuckle was loose, he brought it over to my shop, where i put it on the bridgeport mill, after getting the hole aligned axially and centered. i milled through the center of the bolt, getting the threaded portion hollowed out, then we carefully chipped the threads out of about 1/4", and chased the rest with a tap. if you choose to drill out the threaded end, this spec page (http://mdmetric.com/tech/M-thead%20600.htm) shows the minor diameter just less than 10mm, so the drill for that needs to be less than 10mm. center it up very carefully, best to drill out in steps to avoid getting off center and drilling off the inside threads of the knuckle.

i put virtually every bolt in my e46 back in with aluminum anti-seize, except where there is a critical torque spec, where the torque is spec'd dry.

good luck. i'll be interested to see how this turns out for you.

Last edited by bryanjb; 02-28-2017 at 08:24 PM. Reason: adding additional response
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:07 PM   #62
AKA
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This is a great diy. I used it a few months ago to replace a bearing and am about to do so again as it turns out the hub on that same side has lateral runout causing braking issues. (a story for another time).
Anyhow, I wanted to add that (1)this kit from amazon: B07BGVKRSW works great in place of the bmw tool.
(2) I wasted 45 minutes trying to get the inner race off by making a gap for the puller then moved on to the angle grinder method and it was off in 5'. You just put a notch in the inner race with a angle grinder then wack the notch with a chisel to split it. Sounds ridiculous but was super easy and no filing step afterward.

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Old 12-21-2018, 09:13 PM   #63
mr_y82
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Thanks for sharing the extra info and amazon kit. Cheers!
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Old 12-30-2018, 06:54 PM   #64
Ettinger
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Nicely done. Thanks for the write-up!


Quote:
Originally Posted by AKA View Post
This is a great diy. I used it a few months ago to replace a bearing and am about to do so again as it turns out the hub on that same side has lateral runout causing braking issues. (a story for another time).
Anyhow, I wanted to add that (1)this kit from amazon: B07BGVKRSW works great in place of the bmw tool.
(2) I wasted 45 minutes trying to get the inner race off by making a gap for the puller then moved on to the angle grinder method and it was off in 5'. You just put a notch in the inner race with a angle grinder then wack the notch with a chisel to split it. Sounds ridiculous but was super easy and no filing step afterward.

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Thanks!
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Old 04-06-2019, 10:12 PM   #65
keenyoung
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Rental puller

I know it's an old thread, but it's a good one thanks to the OP and everyone who contributed. My only contribution is that Oreilly Auto has a bearing puller for rent that looks exactly like the SIR Tools BMW-90 puller.

I used it to do my mother's 2001 325xi wagon, and it worked fine. I did manage to bow the top plate on the puller just a bit, but Oreilly didn't notice. I had soaked down the pinch bolt, and bearing with PB blaster for a couple hours, and still managed to break my 30 year old OTC 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe extension.

If I have to do the other one in the future, I will probably pull the knuckle and have a shop pull and press the bearing.

Keen
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Old 04-08-2019, 11:39 PM   #66
mr_y82
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Not using the designated genuine BMW tool... The shame! Seriously though, good job and thanks for sharing! Glad it worked out!
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:31 PM   #67
ShadeTreeJack
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Year: 2002
Model: 330XI
Transmission: Auto
wheel speed sensor tone wheel

somewhat related to this thread: I recently replaced the pass. side CV shaft. Afterwards, there were codes indicating that the speed sensor was not reading. I went to replace it and noticed that there was no tone wheel for the ss to read. I first assumed that I got the wrong CV axle or one with the tone wheel missing. I searched several parts websites and all the pictures showed no tone wheel. I searched further and found it to be part of the bearing, so I ordered a wheel hub and bearing assembly. the tone wheel is on the OD of the bearing and is flush with the end of the bearing. Here is my issue: the current installed bearing doesn't extend through far enough to line up with the speed sensor. I am not sure if it is not pressed in far enough, not sure if it has a tone wheel (can't see one) and I don't want to remove the old bearing/hub assy. and get into a jam if it doesn't fit as I am living in an apartment and 2000 miles from the majority of my tools.

Excellent post by the way
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:05 PM   #68
Mariner05
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Hi ShadeTreeJack -

Did the code only show up after you replaced the passenger side CV axle ? Before anything else, I would be certain the sensor is not damaged and is fully inserted and well connected. It seems strange you wouldn't have the code before changing axles, only to have it show up later.

By the way, depending upon year, the front xi wheel bearings were installed at the factory with 'sleeve retainer' or a green Loctite. They are hard to remove without heat. My benchtop press was barely adequate for pressing them out when I did it with no heat. You should be able to tell whether the bearing is fully pressed in by careful study of the back side of the knuckle - the bearing bottoms out. Of course, with the axle in place, you cannot see this.

Hope this helps a little.

Mariner05
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Old 12-18-2019, 09:46 PM   #69
Pointblank319
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How important is replacing the dust protection collar? Can you re-use the old one? Thanks.
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Old 12-18-2019, 10:33 PM   #70
Mariner05
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Yes, you can reuse - but you may have to dimple it / bend it a little to make sure it seats securely like a new one. I would not leave it off - at least in all the salty slush I drive through in winter here.
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Old 12-19-2019, 04:04 PM   #71
Pointblank319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mariner05 View Post
Yes, you can reuse - but you may have to dimple it / bend it a little to make sure it seats securely like a new one. I would not leave it off - at least in all the salty slush I drive through in winter here.
Yeah I live in northern BC so I don't plan on leaving it off, I've already ordered my parts to do this job and forgot the collar by mistake. just wanted to make sure it wasn't crucial to use a brand new one.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-20-2020, 04:00 PM   #72
fanatichuman
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Ignore my post

Last edited by fanatichuman; 01-23-2020 at 01:48 AM.
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Old 01-22-2020, 02:31 PM   #73
EDWAGON
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subscribed !
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Old 02-08-2020, 05:33 PM   #74
GreaseJunkie
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Can I get in on this?

I'm having trouble getting the old bearing out of my xi. I'm reading about a "chase" and I don't know WTH that is. I see the diagram and only see 5 parts to the whole job.

I'm on my phone, so not sure the order of my pics, but here's the blueprint and I see no "chase" at all. I don't see where to chisel anything. I've broken two flatheads already and been hammering the bearing from the inside, but it's not moving. According to the diagram, the only thing holding the bearing in place is the C ring.

I'm down to the knuckle and the bearing, as far as I can tell. And the dust shield (but I don't think it's in the way, unless I am really missing something).

Help me please!?



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