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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:44 PM   #21
devedean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001bimmer330i View Post
The adjuster unit article is interesting and many of the symptoms related to it failing apply to me. I've noticed a constant whistling noise when under moderate throttle just cruising as well. Could this mean the seal between the adjuster unit and intake manifold has failed? I have actually removed and inspected the unit more than once when replacing the CCV valve, cleaning the idle control valve, etc. The adjuster looked okay with no broken parts.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:16 AM   #22
Schnake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterrM3 View Post
Its a comon problem on all 6cyl E46. It mite give you misfire codes or no codes at all and sometime it even smokes too. Your problem is your Crankcase Vent Valve. Part number 11 61 7 501 566. Its under the intake and a pain in the ass to change.
Apologies for reviving an old post thread... but I am curious to know if anyone has any further developments with the problem described by the OP. PeterrM3 had what seems like a logical answer, though I question why the code given would refer to a specific cylinder and why does the problem disappear for most once the engine is restarted?

I got a code on my Peake scanner for cylinder #4 misfire, so I replaced both the coil and plug. Same deal. I went further by actually removing the connector off the coil when the problem was evident and there was no change in the engines idle, from this I suppose one can conclude it is a specific cylinder problem.
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:29 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Schnake View Post
Apologies for reviving an old post thread... but I am curious to know if anyone has any further developments with the problem described by the OP. PeterrM3 had what seems like a logical answer, though I question why the code given would refer to a specific cylinder and why does the problem disappear for most once the engine is restarted?

I got a code on my Peake scanner for cylinder #4 misfire, so I replaced both the coil and plug. Same deal. I went further by actually removing the connector off the coil when the problem was evident and there was no change in the engines idle, from this I suppose one can conclude it is a specific cylinder problem.
Same thing here, changed coil pack, spark plug and spark plug boot. My car was smoking a while back so I changed the Crank Case Valve a couple of months ago. My car is still misfiring on cylinder 5. I just ordered a new injector and changing it out. I've read some threads on there about malfunctioning injectors casing misfires. I added a fuel injector cleaner in my tank and it helped a little, but the problem is still there. I'm hoping the problem is fixed with a new injector.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:35 AM   #24
Schnake
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My plan is to change the injector too. Please let me know how you go Albarran9.

Like wise from my end I'll keep you all posted.

One thing I noticed this morning is that when I started the car and drove off straight away things were fine. It only happens when I allow the car to warm up at idle. Maybe a coincident.
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:40 PM   #25
albarran9
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Mine dose the same thing. Its only when it sits over night that it misfires, and some times it feels like its going to but I never get a CEL. It drives fine once it passes that fist cold start misfire. I do keep on getting the same code that reads "misfire on cylinder 5 with fuel cutoff". I took out the spark plug when I was changing it and it looked toast. I'm really hoping its the injector because if not i'll have to take it to the stealership and have them work on it.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:28 PM   #26
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I'll try keeping this thread alive too. I've had the same symptoms since i bought my car 3 years ago with 70k miles... I did the musical coil/plug/boot swap thing and changed the VANOS steals with no change. I have NOT swapped injectors or any other parts, but I did inspect for vacuum leaks.

Here are my observations:
  • Driving away in the morning and hoping you don't hit a stop light until the temp gauge is just about out of the blue prevents the symptoms.
  • once symptoms begin (and CEL comes on), shutting off the engine for at least 3 seconds and restarting returns engine operation to normal and sometimes turns off the CEL (I've had to do this while driving )
  • There seems to be a short window of opportunity (30 sec to a minute or so) in the morning before the symptoms kick in. If we knew what peripheral turns on at that time and turns off once the engine oil is warm, we may have our answer
  • Revving the engine when cold and stationary does not help. Apparently, the engine needs some kind of load to prevent the misfire.
  • Misfire is consistent on one cylinder only (mine is #3) - this rules out a vacuum leak, because a lean mixture would show up on one bank, or all randomly.
  • VANOS seals did not cure the issue, although they did fix a dropping idle when the temperature gauge was between the blue and the first slash.

Every morning i dread getting caught at a stop light too soon!

maybe this is the single cause of the 'impatient bimmer driver' stereotypes - a bunch of us fighting to warm up our cars before they start shaking!
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:22 PM   #27
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WRBUSA... your description sounds all to familiar, but I never get a CEL. Mine clears up after a kilometre of driving... probably because of the warmer climate.

I haven't had the time to change the injector though I have spoken to the service manager at the stealership about it and he said he has a fair idea as to what it can be... which really comes as no surprise, of course he will say that simply to get the car in and change every part under the sun.

Keep this thread going and I'm sure collectively we will solve the unknown
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:40 PM   #28
TX325i
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I bought my car with 75k miles and it's been doing this since i got it. Misfires on start up for about 5 seconds then stops. Does it every morning and sometimes during the day when its cold. Also misfires when I am accelerating around 70-80, after 80 it runs smooth.

CEL comes on at random times. Sometimes when I'm on the highway and I'm running smooth.
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Old 04-23-2010, 06:36 PM   #29
wrbusa
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For anyone subscribing to this thread; I found this thread (https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...morning&page=4) extremely helpful, particularly post #73 by Rajaie, the engineer behind the upgraded vanos seals. He gives a really good account of what is occuring during warmup.

Personally, I've just ordered parts to replace the intake boot, crankcase vent system and related hoses in hopes that a small vacuum leak is causing my symptoms. While i'm in there, I will be replacing the intake manifold gasket, cleaning and testing the DISA valve and ISV.

I'll report back after next weekend.
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Old 12-25-2010, 03:14 PM   #30
95m3ltw
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Bump, So did anybody find a fix/cure?

Our 04 330 85,000miles, is doing the same. plugs and coils were changed 3 months ago due to a slight misfire, problem went away until recently.

Cold starts it will run very rough for 15-20 seconds then clears up.

2 days ago, it started missing on the interstate at 75mph. Throws p0301/cyl 1 misfire. I kill the car, restart and it runs fine for another 20 miles.

This morning start the car and it is running rough. Swap cyl 1 coil with cyl1. This time it throws cyl 4 misfire. let it idle for 10 mins with no change. Kill the car, restart a few minutes later and it runs fine
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:11 PM   #31
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I've changed the vanos seals (as a side issue), crank case vent valve & had injector 4 (the cylinder with the misfire) swamped with 1. Haven't had it rescanned to see if the problem moved to cylinder 1 though. No major improvements to the issue at hand.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:55 AM   #32
wrbusa
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95m3ltw - I am describing a specific misfire issue that occurs only on the first start, and doesn't reappear when warm. Not saying these repairs won't solve your misfire, but if it follows the coil, then that's the most likely suspect.

As far as this topic goes, here's my update:

Replaced to date:
VANOS seals (cured issue of almost stalling when warming up)
Intake boots (found hairline cracks, but no tears)
CCV & 3 related hoses (found upper hose cracked)
Injector seals
Intake Manifold Gasket
O2 sensors (100,000 mile preventative)

I also cleaned and inspected the MAF, DISA and ISV, but the misfire persists.

Here is what I'm left with:
1. Persistent vacuum leak - Although I'm not sure where it could originate, but it is possible a vaccum leak still exists somewhere. After replacing the intake boots and CCV system, I thought I could hear a 'wooshing' noise when manipulating the throttle, but I could not locate the origin, and I double checked all my connections.

2. Exhaust cam position sensor - No code, but the exhaust cam timing is critical during the cat warm-up phase.

3. Collapsed lifter - I can't rule this out, although I do not hear the typical chatter when starting cold or when sitting idle. Damn the high quality sound dampening!

4. Faulty VANOS - Maybe the upgraded seals are hiding a larger flaw in the vanos system, not allowing the cam timing to match the input from the DME.

Not sure when I'll get around to troubleshooting this issue some more. As it is, the car runs beautifully after the initial warmup, and depending on how I hit traffic in the mornings, I may not see the check engine light for weeks. It is frustrating, but so it goes with modern cars with increasingly stringent emissions requirements. In all practicality, if the car didn't turn off fuel to the cylinder, and turn on the dummy light, its highly likely that none of us would know or care that this was happening.
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:27 PM   #33
Schnake
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Thanks for the update WRBUSA! Seems like you have done every thing I have done. I should add I have replaced the spark plugs and coil too as well as had the cylinder compression checked and ECU software upgraded.
To me it feels like the suspect cylinder is getting to much fuel. But that's just a gut feel.
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:26 PM   #34
95m3ltw
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Update.

In our case, it turned out to be a defective new spark plug.

I had been chasing a misfire so I replaced the rest of the coils and all plugs. Cured the running misfire but cold starts were rough for about 15 seconds with it getting worse and worse. Over Christmas when we started experiencing missing on the road, I had planned on doing a compression test etc. After pulling cyl 4 plug and noticing the ceramic insulator was in pieces, replaced it and all is well.

I would also add. My first code was cyl 1 misfire. I swapped cyl 1 coil with cyl 2, then I had a misfire on 4, 5, 3, all etc. Cyl 4 kept coming up with the most misfires so I pulled it first and saw the bad plug. Replaced the plug, no issues so far.
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Old 01-15-2011, 09:35 PM   #35
95m3ltw
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New update,

Fook me, the rough cold start has come back. Very strange it would be cured by new plugs for a week or so and then come back. Will step back and start checking the basics.
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Old 12-20-2019, 02:46 PM   #36
BESEMBO
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ahh i have done more then you guys can imagine. in the end i even updated dme to correct version. nothing.
engine is left... ***x1f61e;
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