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Old 01-10-2020, 01:21 PM   #1
malapane
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Chasing codes, where first?

OK, back ground. Bought a 2005 325i with M54 last spring. The engine has always run strong. Smooth idle, no vanos noise, no lack of power - nothing that I have noticed.

I have been working over the summer to sort this thing out for my daughter to use as her first car. Then later this fall, I got the bank 1 and 2 lean codes. Found a failed lower CCV tube, but during this time code P0011 first showed up. Since the lean codes were first and I knew I had a vacuum leak, I started there. Replaced the entire CCV system, cleared codes and OK for a bit, shortly after (1 to 2 weeks), heard whistling and lean code(s) only returned. Replaced DISA o-ring, whistling gone and codes gone, but now, shorlty there after (2 to 3 weeks), I have code P0011 camshaft position timing again plus P0335 crankshaft position sensor. (no lean codes though)

If there were any vanos noise or any lack of power, I would start with a vanos seal rebuild, but since it is running so well, is there somewhere else I should start given the sequence and timing of codes P0011 and P0335?

Thank you all for any tips you can share!

Last edited by malapane; 01-10-2020 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 01-10-2020, 01:59 PM   #2
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Could try to swap your intake and exhaust solenoids to see if the codes change at all.
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:01 PM   #3
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Some good info in this thread: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=299149

A failing/failed CPS can be the culprit for all kinds of issues. Maybe start with those sensors (inexpensive and less involved than a Vanos rebuild).
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:20 PM   #4
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In addition to above advice, I would carefully inspect the DME connectors for fluid intrusion or other damage.
The camshaft position sensors do go out on the M54, often intermittently. Usually the amplifier inside the sensor starts crapping out. They can be easily tested, check youtube for videos on that.
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:48 PM   #5
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Great info! Thank you.

I would happily test them, but as it will be fine for weeks, I'm not sure I would be sure to find it.

I have a second E46 with M54, perhaps I will start with swapping Cam Position Sensor from one car to the other and see which car has the code return.

Does P0011 indicate certainly Exhaust or Intake Cam Position Sensor?
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:49 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Knight View Post
Some good info in this thread: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=299149

A failing/failed CPS can be the culprit for all kinds of issues. Maybe start with those sensors (inexpensive and less involved than a Vanos rebuild).
When you say CPS, are you referring to Cam or Crank?
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:57 PM   #7
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I have a second E46 with M54, perhaps I will start with swapping Cam Position Sensor from one car to the other and see which car has the code return.

Does P0011 indicate certainly Exhaust or Intake Cam Position Sensor?
People need to post the description along with each trouble code, so everyone doesn’t have to go look it up.

P0011 is for intake. See more details here.
P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0011

Intermittent trouble codes while the engine seems to run fine can be difficult to pinpoint and troubleshoot. Having another M54 around for swapping parts is a nice luxury.
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Old 01-10-2020, 03:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
People need to post the description along with each trouble code, so everyone doesn't have to go look it up.

P0011 is for intake. See more details here.
P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0011

Intermittent trouble codes while the engine seems to run fine can be difficult to pinpoint and troubleshoot. Having another M54 around for swapping parts is a nice luxury.
Sorry, didn't get a printout from the scan this morning, so I missed the "A" when I took notes and shared above.

I can scan with my Peake Research tool, but it seems like most people reference the generic OBDII codes not the specific Peake codes/ descriptions. I will get those when I get home.

Anyway, I can easily swap the intake cam sensor and see what happens Thank you

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Old 01-10-2020, 08:02 PM   #9
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Sorry, didn't get a printout from the scan this morning, so I missed the "A" when I took notes and shared above.

I can scan with my Peake Research tool, but it seems like most people reference the generic OBDII codes not the specific Peake codes/ descriptions. I will get those when I get home.

Anyway, I can easily swap the intake cam sensor and see what happens Thank you
I would sell the Peake tool. Back in the day it was all there was, but now you can have BMW Scanner 1.4 which blows it away for just a $20 cable.
https://www.xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-...de-reader.html
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Old 01-11-2020, 01:03 PM   #10
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When you say CPS, are you referring to Cam or Crank?
Both, based on the codes your car generated. For the P0011-A, it's more likely (and hopefully to be the case) that the culprit is the CamPS and not an issue with your timing chain.

These sensors are known to fail after some time and there have even been cases where proactive replacement fixed other issues that seemed unrelated.

For reference, both of mine are original and the plan is to replace both at the first sign of trouble.
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Old 01-12-2020, 10:36 AM   #11
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I will swap the intake Cam position sensors between my two M54s this morning and wait and see what happens.
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Old 01-12-2020, 12:09 PM   #12
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We had similar issues(lean codes, sensor codes) with our xi. To deal with the sensor codes I replaced the following, especially since they seem to be an "ism" with these cars:
1) crankshaft sensor (fun on an xi)
2) both, intake and exhaust cam sensors
No more sensor DTC's in over a year.
Getting rid of the lean codes was more of an issue, as we were getting the car up to date service wise from the original/previous owner. Here's a list of what I did:
1) pulled the intake manifold and resealed everything, replaced all vac hoses and all o-ring seals/gaskets(air bar, injectors, manifold, etc..).
2) replaced all the CCV hoses and valve with factory parts
3) replaced all 4 O2 sensors (car had 60+k)
4) installed new fuel pump and filter/regulator(both were shot)
5) replaced the faulty bremi coils with new Bosch units and fresh NGK plugs(made a huge improvement).
6) replaced the DISA with a factory BMW part(this was the final nail in the coffin for the lean codes).
For over a year now, the car has run like a champ. No codes and really decent MPG/performance. Our DISA was quite bad, the metal flapper pin was lying in the intake. I was fortunate enough to catch it in time. What a horrid design. Best of luck with it.
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Old 01-13-2020, 01:45 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by 77'911 View Post
We had similar issues(lean codes, sensor codes) with our xi. To deal with the sensor codes I replaced the following, especially since they seem to be an "ism" with these cars:
1) crankshaft sensor (fun on an xi)
2) both, intake and exhaust cam sensors
No more sensor DTC's in over a year.
Getting rid of the lean codes was more of an issue, as we were getting the car up to date service wise from the original/previous owner. Here's a list of what I did:
1) pulled the intake manifold and resealed everything, replaced all vac hoses and all o-ring seals/gaskets(air bar, injectors, manifold, etc..).
2) replaced all the CCV hoses and valve with factory parts
3) replaced all 4 O2 sensors (car had 60+k)
4) installed new fuel pump and filter/regulator(both were shot)
5) replaced the faulty bremi coils with new Bosch units and fresh NGK plugs(made a huge improvement).
6) replaced the DISA with a factory BMW part(this was the final nail in the coffin for the lean codes).
For over a year now, the car has run like a champ. No codes and really decent MPG/performance. Our DISA was quite bad, the metal flapper pin was lying in the intake. I was fortunate enough to catch it in time. What a horrid design. Best of luck with it.
regards
+1 on this if you want a car that won't strand her or that she won't detest. You can chase codes for a long time the way you are going.

I would always replace the starter, the VANOS oil line, the crankshaft sensor, and the OFHG when you have the intake off.

I am doing the whole shebang right now on a friend's car. Including the above plus replacing the entire cooling system (except radiator), the oil pan gasket, power steering lines and reservoir, the starter and alternator, and flushing all fluids will end up running about $1,600 in parts. That is the cost of one minor trip to a shop when something blows up. I didn't change the DISA because it doesn't strand you and there was no obvious issue.

And there is nothing like a car that just starts every day and runs great.

Oh, and pull the ignition switch and file/clean the starter contact or just replace the switch if the car is over 150k if you really want to have it sorted.

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Old 01-13-2020, 10:38 AM   #14
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Very good. Thanks all.

I swapped the intake cam sensors over yesterday. Would have been a piece of cake except I dropped the stupid 5mm bit. I looked everywhere and never could find it. That's it, I am buying a magnetic bit ratchet. I am sick of using a 1/4" socket and taping the bit in. No more of that.

The sensor on both cars seemed to never have been touched and both had a little debris on them, more on the one with the codes. Both check engine lights are off, so I will know if this had any effect in a few weeks. I will report back.

I have done all the CCV, DISA and vacuum stuff already. Didn't take the intake off, so some of the extras such as the coolant pipes haven't been done. Previous owner did the plugs and sorted all the oil leaks. I think I will wait 1.5 years until she goes off to college to do the whole cooling system and complete engine refresh. She is only driving around home for the time being.

I will be doing a major portion of the things above on my second E46 this winter. I have many of the parts ready to go. Neither needs to be my daily driver at the moment, so I am not too likely to start replacing working parts. I have been burned by that too many times before where the replaced parts fails before the original probably would have. But, I do plan to swap every plastic and rubber part on the second one when I have the intake out. This one is a Jan, 2003 build and seems to have had very little work ever done to it. Nearly everything I touch seems to be unmolested. So far, I have only been able to confirm control arm bushings have been changed...

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Old 01-13-2020, 10:43 AM   #15
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:38 AM   #16
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Very good. Thanks all.

I swapped the intake cam sensors over yesterday. Would have been a piece of cake except I dropped the stupid 5mm bit. I looked everywhere and never could find it. That's it, I am buying a magnetic bit ratchet. I am sick of using a 1/4" socket and taping the bit in. No more of that.

The sensor on both cars seemed to never have been touched and both had a little debris on them, more on the one with the codes. Both check engine lights are off, so I will know if this had any effect in a few weeks. I will report back.

I have done all the CCV, DISA and vacuum stuff already. Didn't take the intake off, so some of the extras such as the coolant pipes haven't been done. Previous owner did the plugs and sorted all the oil leaks. I think I will wait 1.5 years until she goes off to college to do the whole cooling system and complete engine refresh. She is only driving around home for the time being.

I will be doing a major portion of the things above on my second E46 this winter. I have many of the parts ready to go. Neither needs to be my daily driver at the moment, so I am not too likely to start replacing working parts. I have been burned by that too many times before where the replaced parts fails before the original probably would have. But, I do plan to swap every plastic and rubber part on the second one when I have the intake out. This one is an Jan, 2003 build and seems to have had very little work ever done to it. Nearly everything I touch seems to be unmolested. So far, I have only been able to confirm control arm bushings have been changed...
A few notes:
1. Both times I did this (125k mile engines) the hard pipe ends were completely destroyed and it took the better part of an hour just to clear out the bits that had fused to the head
2. I am on the fence with the "replace working parts" bit. All of these engines need the "intake off refresh", and everything rubber has to go. The hard decisions are the starter and the sensors. I would always replace the starter and crankshaft position sensor if more than 100k miles and the intake is off because they are SO hard to get to otherwise.
3. There are maintenance items and "when failed" items. I consider O2 sensors, fuel filters and MAF maintenance items (100k, 60k, and 175k respectively). Others don't. You should just replace them at those miles.
4. Do the whole shebang on the 2003. It needs it
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Old 01-13-2020, 12:41 PM   #17
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A few notes:
1. Both times I did this (125k mile engines) the hard pipe ends were completely destroyed and it took the better part of an hour just to clear out the bits that had fused to the head
2. I am on the fence with the "replace working parts" bit. All of these engines need the "intake off refresh", and everything rubber has to go. The hard decisions are the starter and the sensors. I would always replace the starter and crankshaft position sensor if more than 100k miles and the intake is off because they are SO hard to get to otherwise.
3. There are maintenance items and "when failed" items. I consider O2 sensors, fuel filters and MAF maintenance items (100k, 60k, and 175k respectively). Others don't. You should just replace them at those miles.
4. Do the whole shebang on the 2003. It needs it
1.Yes, I have heard about the hard plastic coolant pipes. This will be my first set, which seems odd after how many cooling systems I have replaced on E46s going back 13 or 14 years.

2.Yes, I know this one needs everything. It was in a very fair climate it's whole life, so I expect problems now that it will see cold winters and hotter summers.
I think I will leave the starter, but may likely do the crank position sensor, only $53 and not as wasteful. Only I drive it, and I have a couple extra cars if it gives me trouble, so I can keep an eye on it and see how it goes. I don't mind going back in there if I need to. I've done it so many times that I don't really dread it anymore.

3.I will do the fuel filters on both soon enough. I will certainly keep a close eye on any codes and address any that arise right away so as to keep the scope small. It's always harder when you try to clear codes on a car that has been neglected and you are chasing several different issues at the same time.

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Old 01-13-2020, 04:21 PM   #18
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When you say CPS, are you referring to Cam or Crank?

P0011 is a cam shaft code for the intake cam, P0335 is the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Google is your friend. You can Google all of the Generic codes, and some of the unique ones.

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Old 01-14-2020, 10:30 AM   #19
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P0011 is a cam shaft code for the intake cam, P0335 is the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Google is your friend. You can Google all of the Generic codes, and some of the unique ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malapane View Post
...(2 to 3 weeks), I have code P0011 camshaft position timing again plus P0335 crankshaft position sensor. (no lean codes though)...

... is there somewhere else I should start given the sequence and timing of codes P0011 and P0335?

Thank you all for any tips you can share!

Yes, I have that in my first post. The only thing I was missing was "A" to designate intake cam vs exhaust cam.

Cut a guy some slack... I think my first post was nearly complete

Certainly both sensors haven't gone bad at the exact same moment. I was asking which one he was referring to. His answer was both. I started with the intake cam sensor as it was the earliest code and it is much easier to get to. We will see what happens.

Last edited by malapane; 01-14-2020 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 01-14-2020, 10:52 AM   #20
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Yes, I have that in my first post. The only thing I was missing was "A" to designate intake cam vs exhaust cam.

Cut a guy some slack... I think my first post was nearly complete

Certainly both sensors haven't gone bad at the exact same moment. I was asking which one he was referring to. His answer was both. I started with the intake cam sensor as it was the earliest code and it is much easier to get to. We will see what happens.
Please ignore unreasonable critique posts. Your OP was detailed and provided a good amount of background (missing the "A" is a minor, honest mistake).
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