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Old 01-16-2020, 03:52 AM   #1
gagi
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Engine Mount

To replace engine mounts, do I need an engine support bar on the top to lift the engine? Would a floor jack pushing on the oil pan be enough?
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Old 01-16-2020, 04:22 AM   #2
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I did mine with a floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. I followed the 50sKid video below.

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Old 01-16-2020, 01:52 PM   #3
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What's the pain index with this project?
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Old 01-16-2020, 04:07 PM   #4
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Pretty easy but you will need a long extension bar/universal to reach the RS nut from the top. Easier if you remove the air pump.
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Old 01-16-2020, 04:29 PM   #5
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It's an easy enough job. You might have to remove some **** around it, but it's easy. Jack & wooden board will do the trick.
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Old 01-16-2020, 08:41 PM   #6
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Same. Did it with a jack and wooden block to spread the load.
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Old 01-17-2020, 05:21 AM   #7
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Doing this as soon as it warms back up in NYC, but will probably pull the trigger on the harbor freight engine support bar.

That said, I'm more worried about tackling the trans mounts, which I SHOULD have done when I did the flex disc. Maybe even remove the exhaust / disc again to do it?

Anyone have a good tutorial (besides 50s kid's) for auto trans mounts?
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by sefeing View Post
Doing this as soon as it warms back up in NYC, but will probably pull the trigger on the harbor freight engine support bar.

That said, I'm more worried about tackling the trans mounts, which I SHOULD have done when I did the flex disc. Maybe even remove the exhaust / disc again to do it?

Anyone have a good tutorial (besides 50s kid's) for auto trans mounts?
I did mine at the same time I did the engine mounts. I even used 50sKid hack of using a 13mm wrench and a 1/2" ratchet to turn the wrench. That took all of 5 minutes to replace them with nothing else removed. Easy peazy.
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Old 01-17-2020, 07:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sefeing View Post
Doing this as soon as it warms back up in NYC, but will probably pull the trigger on the harbor freight engine support bar.

That said, I'm more worried about tackling the trans mounts, which I SHOULD have done when I did the flex disc. Maybe even remove the exhaust / disc again to do it?

Anyone have a good tutorial (besides 50s kid's) for auto trans mounts?
I did mine at the same time I did the engine mounts. I even used 50sKid hack of using a 13mm wrench and a 1/2" ratchet to turn the wrench. That took all of 5 minutes to replace them with nothing else removed. Easy peazy.
Great to hear this hack was easily repeatable - I'll give this a shot!
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Old 01-17-2020, 09:18 AM   #10
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I have the harbor freight engine bar, so much easier. I accessed the passenger side mount's top nut from underneath, a flex head ratchet makes it easy. The drivers side you can also get to from the top by just reaching your hand down there and go after it. Again, a flex head ratchet is key. With the engine brace it is super easy and takes 45 minutes tops. Use the vertical hooks that come with the kit to go through the loop right above the tstat. Once the lower nuts are loose, just give a few twists on the hook to raise the engine some, the mounts slide right out.

I HIGHLY recommend Corteco M3 engine mounts. Just installed them on my 330ci and they are nice Oem+ option. Bought mine from FCP, lifetime warranty abounds!
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:18 AM   #11
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I am expecting new mounts from FCP next Wednesday. Looking at the dramas on YouTube, I think people got into clearance trouble because they tried to change both sides at the same time. Shouldn't be an issue if done one side at a time. I guess I will find out.

Now, I am debating if I need to get the engine bar from Harbor Freight.

The job that I am really dreading is the oil pan gasket. I never liked working under the car anyway.
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:37 AM   #12
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I have the harbor freight engine bar, so much easier. I accessed the passenger side mount's top nut from underneath, a flex head ratchet makes it easy. The drivers side you can also get to from the top by just reaching your hand down there and go after it. Again, a flex head ratchet is key. With the engine brace it is super easy and takes 45 minutes tops. Use the vertical hooks that come with the kit to go through the loop right above the tstat. Once the lower nuts are loose, just give a few twists on the hook to raise the engine some, the mounts slide right out.

I HIGHLY recommend Corteco M3 engine mounts. Just installed them on my 330ci and they are nice Oem+ option. Bought mine from FCP, lifetime warranty abounds!
Rad! Did you have any issues with clearance that required you to do what 50's kid did and lever the engine to one side? Or is it super super straight forward with the support bar?
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:50 AM   #13
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Rad! Did you have any issues with clearance that required you to do what 50's kid did and lever the engine to one side? Or is it super super straight forward with the support bar?
Super straight forward with the engine bar. A buddy just updated a thread on bimmerfest on his revshift mounts. Check the pic here (https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=962475) and you will see me under the car and my support bar on top. I did one at a time, though both are easily removed at the same time with the support bar and no "levering' needed on the ZHP in the pic or my car a few weeks ago with regular sized M3 mounts (because the bar will lift the engine uniformly and give you plenty of room). For $80 or less, it is cheap insurance that the engine wont fall off a jack or that you damage your oil pan.

I just did my oil pan gasket and new mounts on my car, wouldnt even attempt to lower the front subframe for that work without the bar. Well worth the $$ IMO.

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Now, I am debating if I need to get the engine bar from Harbor Freight.

The job that I am really dreading is the oil pan gasket. I never liked working under the car anyway.
Yea, you need it. $80 or less with their "super coupon" and well worth the piece of mind and all the extra room under the car without a jack in your way.
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Last edited by smolck; 01-17-2020 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 01-17-2020, 12:09 PM   #14
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Yea, you need it. $80 or less with their "super coupon" and well worth the piece of mind and all the extra room under the car without a jack in your way.[/QUOTE]

that alone makes it worth the $80.

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Old 01-17-2020, 12:20 PM   #15
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I did this job following the 50s Kid. The engine bar might have been nice, but it is unnecessary. I used the jack and chunk of wood method. Each side, front and back. It's difficult torquing the transmission mounts with a normal sized Torque wrench. For the front, if you do it one side at a time at least loosen the nut for the other side, but don't take the nut off. This eases the tilt of the engine. Don't torque the top bolts on the front mounts until you're done. It keeps things flexible as you finish the job. For the rear mounts it makes things easier the higher up you have your car raised. All in all it took me about three hours.

If you have a front mount that has leaked out it can end up with one side of the engine an inch or two lower than it should be. I had that issue on my passenger side. You will have to raise the engine up higher on that side to install the new mount. If you have this issue however and a manual stick, your car will shift much better when you do this job. It's worth the effort.
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:02 PM   #16
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The vibration that I am experiencing is not bad at all. It is hardly noticeable in N and very slight in D. How much improvement can I expect from new mounts? Will I notice during acceleration and deceleration?
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Old 01-17-2020, 02:43 PM   #17
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The vibration that I am experiencing is not bad at all. It is hardly noticeable in N and very slight in D. How much improvement can I expect from new mounts? Will I notice during acceleration and deceleration?
Mine were complete blown out. I noticed a difference, especially in shifting (manual trans). If yours are as bad as mine were, you’ll notice.

Here are mine compared to the new M3 mount.....
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Old 01-17-2020, 02:49 PM   #18
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Mine were complete blown out. I noticed a difference, especially in shifting (manual trans). If yours are as bad as mine were, you’ll notice.

Here are mine compared to the new M3 mount.....
Wow. Those look even worse than mine did. At least both of mine were still intact. Was your passenger side the one that was the most compressed?

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Old 01-17-2020, 03:10 PM   #19
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Wow. Those look even worse than mine did. At least both of mine were still intact. Was your passenger side the one that was the most compressed?
Yes, broken one came off the driver side, flat one from the passenger side.
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:54 PM   #20
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I am expecting new mounts from FCP next Wednesday. Looking at the dramas on YouTube, I think people got into clearance trouble because they tried to change both sides at the same time. Shouldn't be an issue if done one side at a time. I guess I will find out.

Now, I am debating if I need to get the engine bar from Harbor Freight.

The job that I am really dreading is the oil pan gasket. I never liked working under the car anyway.
If the oil pan gasket is on your "to do list", then get the Harbor Freight engine support bar, you will need it anyway for that job.
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