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Suspension & Braking
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:07 PM   #41
tlester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
I used a big long flathead screwdriver and a 2.5 lb hammer to knock it off. What'd you do?
That's what I did.
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:53 PM   #42
white46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
I used a big long flathead screwdriver and a 2.5 lb hammer to knock it off. What'd you do?
That's pretty mush what I did to remove it.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:09 PM   #43
tlester
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Originally Posted by 2003silver330i View Post
I'm not sure how some of you are messing up this procedure. The new coupler can only go on one way because of the plastic guide that is attached to the power steering rack. This plastic guide automatically rotates when you turn your front wheels left or right. So even if you bump your wheels when the car is up in the air on jack stands you can just rotate the wheels using your hand to match up the plastic guide with the new coupler's slot. As long as you don't break or bend the plastic guide when you remove the old coupler you should not have any issues installing the new coupler or require an alignment. If you required an alignment afterwards then the problem existed before replacing the coupler and the new coupler just exasperated the problem.

Also, another way to do this is to put the coupler on the power steering rack assembly first and then have someone slowly rotate the steering wheel until the shaft lines up with the coupler's slot. I have done both of these methods.
It's not that we are messing it up, it's that it's difficult to get any leverage pushing the coupler down over the second set of splines. I had no problem getting it to line up with the guide or to go over the first set of splines. In fact, I got it partially on the 2nd set of splines. It was getting it all the way down the 2nd set so that the screw hole in the guide tab lined up with the wholes in the coupler.
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:23 PM   #44
angstadt530
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I figured out the solution! I had the same problem today: couldn't slide the coupler down the last 1/4 to 1/2 of the grooved side.

1. Once the coupler is on about halfway (so you don't mess up the alignment), unlock the steering wheel.
2. Go back underneath the car and rotate the coupler 180 degrees with you hand so you can see the black tab part running along the grooved side that the coupler mates with.
3. Inspect the tab. If it's slightly bent to one side at the top, you're not lined up along the correct grooves. Slide the coupler back up, rotate it just a hair so that the tab sits straight, then slide back down.

Also, on the bar that the top of the coupler mates with, there's a notch where the top screw passes through. The bar telescopes, so if it got moved while replacing the coupler, the notch won't be in the correct position for the screw. Just rotate the coupler so you can see the notch and adjust.
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:37 PM   #45
markslc1
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resurrection!

Bringing back the dead thread to see if I could request some help on the same issue. My steering quibo fits my old rack, but I cant slide it on the new rack more than 1/4 inch until it binds up. I'm talking about trying to slide it on with the rack outside of the car. I couldn't do it hooked up so I pulled the rack out to see what was going on.

The threads look ok overall, but cant figure out why the guibo wont slide on the splines since I can at least get it started. I tried some lube, but have not tried using a hammer since that seems extreme. Could the rebuilt rack just have a slightly larger shaft? As this replacement guibo slides onto the original rack just fine.

Anyone else experience this difficulty when installing a new rack?
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