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Old 12-04-2019, 04:27 AM   #21
Alex323Ci
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M54 engines like to rev, you wont hurt it.
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Old 12-04-2019, 07:28 AM   #22
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If he has a 323, it's a 2.5L M52tu engine. That's the engine to have if you like to run at high RPMs. It doesn't have the ring problems of the M54, or the crank harmonics of the 3.0L near redline.

The first thing to replace is the fan blades. They get brittle over time. If a crack forms, it will throw a blade into the fan shroud (not too expensive to replace) or even the hood (hella expensive if that happens on my Z3). I have a e39 that threw blades and was lucky that the shroud (barely) contained the projectiles.

While you are there you might as well replace the belt pulleys. INA brand is considered the best, and is barely more expensive than the generic ones. Note that you may not have the upper deflection pulley on a 323, and it's unpredictable if you have a "hydraulic" or hockey puck "mechanical" tensioner, so you'll need to look at the engine before ordering.
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Old 12-04-2019, 09:56 AM   #23
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Motor mounts or those new fan blades will still hit something they shouldn't resulting in the same end result of brittle fan blades.

Years ago I made a thread about this happening to my car after revving in park via my 150,000miles 325i at the time and we concluded the mounts let engine move and fan blades hit something (most likely fan shroud)

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Old 12-04-2019, 11:17 AM   #24
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No, its a fact. Does that mean you can run it to 6500rpm and hold it there for a. hour? No. But accelerating hard to redline doesn't hurt the engine. I mean my 330ci 5 speed runs at 3400rpm at 85mph. Thats high, but BMW designed it that way by putting a 1 to 1 ratio 5th gear and 2.93 rear diff.
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Old 12-04-2019, 12:34 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by DBecker View Post
The first thing to replace is the fan blades. They get brittle over time. If a crack forms, it will throw a blade into the fan shroud or even the hood.

Note that you may not have the upper deflection pulley on a 323, and it's unpredictable if you have a "hydraulic" or hockey puck "mechanical" tensioner, so you'll need to look at the engine before ordering.
All good advice but in his case he has a 323Ci manual. it has an electric fan. he doesn't have to worry about mechanical clutch fan blades and shroud issues from high revs.

323Ci manual has the hydraulic top tensioner. i'm a past original owner for many years of a 323Ci manual.

Quote:
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Motor mounts or those new fan blades will still hit something they shouldn't resulting in the same end result of brittle fan blades.
Years ago I made a thread about this happening to my car after revving in park...
see above. 2000 323Ci manual doesn't have mechanical clutch fan, has electric.
if motor mounts are needed it's never a bad thing to suggest to replace, although blades not affected by mounts in this case.
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Old 12-04-2019, 12:41 PM   #26
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6200 rpm is all you need to accelerate to, after that, all you're basically doing is making noise. Take a look at a dyno chart, m54's power band drops off immediately
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Old 12-04-2019, 12:42 PM   #27
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I regularly drive my 330cic with the auto tranny in manual mode and run the first 3 gears to redline plenty (and 4th on the open highway). Never a problem if the car is in decent shape mechanically.

In the OP's case, just want to clarify that 'redlining' is not the same as 'racing'... where you might be running at redline for extended periods. If your just looking to wind your motor frequently you should be fine. I'd look at making sure your tranny and clutch are in good shape and all the linkage, etc. is tight and fluids new (or relatively new and fairly clean looking). Fix any codes present (assuming you have any); make sure your intake filter is clean, exhaust is in good shape, use premium gas and a good synthetic oil and I would say "Go for it"
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Old 12-04-2019, 01:20 PM   #28
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No, its a fact. Does that mean you can run it to 6500rpm and hold it there for a. hour? No. But accelerating hard to redline doesn't hurt the engine. I mean my 330ci 5 speed runs at 3400rpm at 85mph. Thats high, but BMW designed it that way by putting a 1 to 1 ratio 5th gear and 2.93 rear diff.
first off his 2000 323Ci has an M52TU engine, not an M54. i stated this earlier in thread before your first post.

agreed it's ok to run to redline. not the best thing, but it can handle it.
i would not say 3400 rpm is high. maybe to you. and can't agree the M52TU/M54 is a high reving engine compared to most recent sport car engines. heck BMW's S54 is made as a High reving engine. produces 333 hp at 7,900 rpm and 262 lb-ft at 4,900 rpm, with a REDLINE of 8,000 rpm.
again as i stated the M52TU redline is 6,500 but it stops making more Hp at 5,500 rpm and the torque stops at early at 3,500 rpm. with it's double vanos i would say it's a free rev'ing engine but not an engine made to perform as a high Redline rev'ing engine.
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Old 12-04-2019, 01:38 PM   #29
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Lock down the oil pump nut and do regular oil changes. Wait till the oil is warm (via driving-- not idling) before revving her out.

I don't know what the people above me are thinking. I've red lined every car I own many times a day, bounce it off the redline while drifting, and held high RPM over a long distance doing high speed long distance driving-- including in my M52 (300,000 miles) and M54 (225,000 miles) powered e39s (not to mention the M cars). The M3 coupe has >20,000 track miles on it, and they're all between 5500 and 8200 rpm, WOT >half the time. Plus 16 years and 150,000 miles of driving it like an ass on the street, year round/

No issues with any of them. 100% fine to do.

Lock down that oil pump nut and have fun. If you haven't done the belts/tensioners/idlers, probably them too.

If I wasn't driving like this, I wouldn't own a BMW... and I wouldn't own a BMW if I wasn't going to drive like this. Chevy makes nice engines for trundling around at low RPM.
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Old 12-04-2019, 01:39 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oomlot View Post
I guess some people aren't familiar the ever popular " money shift"!!!!
That's not redlining-- that's over revving. Completely separate conversation.
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Old 12-04-2019, 04:56 PM   #31
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first off his 2000 323Ci has an M52TU engine, not an M54. i stated this earlier in thread before your first post.

agreed it's ok to run to redline. not the best thing, but it can handle it.
i would not say 3400 rpm is high. maybe to you. and can't agree the M52TU/M54 is a high reving engine compared to most recent sport car engines. heck BMW's S54 is made as a High reving engine. produces 333 hp at 7,900 rpm and 262 lb-ft at 4,900 rpm, with a REDLINE of 8,000 rpm.
again as i stated the M52TU redline is 6,500 but it stops making more Hp at 5,500 rpm and the torque stops at early at 3,500 rpm. with it's double vanos i would say it's a free rev'ing engine but not an engine made to perform as a high Redline rev'ing engine.
What i said was these engines like to rev, you made the face to that comment which I took to mean you disagree. I did not say they were high revving race engines like the s54 and other purpose built engines like it, nor did I compare them to any modern engines implying they are high revving compared to XYZ brand.

But to say 6500rpm is in anyway dangerous to an E46 is simply untrue. Just because it stops making power doesnt mean revving it out to redline is bad for it, it helps keep you in the meat of the powerband for the next gear.

My first E46 was a 323i and I beat the ever loving crap outta that car and it never cared (and unlike my m54's, never used any oil) It lived happily this way through 255k miles and then moved on to another car as an engine swap.

I treat the M54 cars this way too, and again, well into the 200k mile range and they never blow up. That was all I was trying to say.
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Last edited by smolck; 12-04-2019 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 12-04-2019, 06:44 PM   #32
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Hey guys ive had my e46 coupe manual for a while. But recently ive been broke until now. Been fixing basic things such as thermostat, coolant, etc. I know this question might sound stupid to some of you, but what should i replace if i want to redline often? I know some of you guys might think why would you wanna do that. Well im young just turned 20, i wanna enjoy my bmw. I love the sound. And just because i can as an American citizen lol. Money is not an issue. So obviously oil change first... What else? Thank you.
Money is not an issue... riiiighttt... It's not AN issue until all of a sudden it becomes THE issue.

Strongly recommend you zero-time the cooling system - EVERYTHING - including all belts, all hoses, water pump, idler pulley, thermostat housing, radiator, pressure cap, header tank and associated mounting plate, temperature sensor, and especially the two plastic water pipes under the intake manifold that rot from the inside out. These engines have no tolerance for being overheated. If you're going to work yours hard, you'll be working the cooling system hard, and it may let go on you suddenly, massively, and expen$ively. If you do the work yourself, this will cost you on the order of $850 or so in parts and materials. If a shop does the work for you, you're talking twice that.
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