E46 Tie Rod Replacement DIY

missamo80 thanks very much for this post. I did my suspension two years ago but avoided replacing the tie rods because they seemed fine. This year I noticed the steering wobbling a bit at high speed on the highway if I gave a little gas on a curve or hit some rough spots. Put it up on jack stands to check the suspension and found the tie rods were worn.

The steps here were great, used a tie rod puller to pop the joint off. Just having a break right now to charge my grinder to cut the old rod and get the boot off. I was able to loosen the bolt on the old tie rod but still couldn't twist the old tie rod end off.

Still need to find the torque spec on the bolt but I guess that will be done by the alignment shop.

Originally Posted by littlegti

missamo80 thanks very much for this post. I did my suspension two years ago but avoided replacing the tie rods because they seemed fine. This year I noticed the steering wobbling a bit at high speed on the highway if I gave a little gas on a curve or hit some rough spots. Put it up on jack stands to check the suspension and found the tie rods were worn.

The steps here were great, used a tie rod puller to pop the joint off. Just having a break right now to charge my grinder to cut the old rod and get the boot off. I was able to loosen the bolt on the old tie rod but still couldn't twist the old tie rod end off.

Still need to find the torque spec on the bolt but I guess that will be done by the alignment shop.

The shop should take care of it, but 45Nm FYI - http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...rms/page_3935/.

Luke

Thanks to this DIY a 17 year old was capable of doing this and the pipe wrench work very well

This is a great DIY, thank you. A suggestion if you're going to do this: Don't mess with a hammer and pickle fork to break loose the outer tie rod bolt. I soaked it with PB Blaster, let it sit overnight, and used a tie rod end remover tool borrowed from Pep Boys. About three turns of my wrench and bang the bolt was free. Could not have been easier.

Agree on a tie rod end removal tool, and places like O'Reilly/Napa/etc. will likely rent you one for free!

Neil

2000 323ci:

• Tie Rod on the DS, came off with little to no force with puller, PS, exploded like a gunshot.
• Was an 18mm nut attaching the outer tie rod to the wheel.
• Pipe wrench was perfect, no crows foot needed.
• Locking ring on the inner tie rod was 23?24mm? in size. (didn't have an open-end past 22mm).
• Of Course new Lemforder arms were the correct sizes (19mm outer tie rod, 22mm inner locking nut).
• Zip-ties sealed it up fine, 11 5/8" were plenty long.
• Dust boot didn't have a spacer like in video.
• There was some murky? oily stuff in the DS virgin cavity.
• Car feels so much more stable while driving and turning.

Originally Posted by Nicker

2000 323ci:

• Tie Rod on the DS, came off with little to no force with puller, PS, exploded like a gunshot.
• Was an 18mm nut attaching the outer tie rod to the wheel.
• Pipe wrench was perfect, no crows foot needed.
  

how did you do the correct torque without the crowsfoot wrench?

Originally Posted by Alex323Ci

how did you do the correct torque without the crowsfoot wrench?

I grabbed my 24mm front stabilizer bar with one hand and the pipe wrench with the other, and applied the correct amount of torque measured from my internal torque meter.

I've owned this car for 10 years and put 100k on it, so far my methods have worked and never once have failed me.

How hard is it just to replace the boots? Mine are both torn. What do I have to disconnect just to put new boots on?

I am not an expert but I think you still have to disconnect the outer tie rod end. At that point you might as well put on fresh tie rods. They do wear out.

Just did this. Harbor freight makes an inner tie rod tool that I used to properly torque the new tie rod (with a 1/2" torque wrench). The set comes with 7 different crows feet sizes.

https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-69619.html

I used a 12" adjustable wrench with a cheater bar to get the old inner tie rod off.

For the outer tie rod ball joint, I used the harbor freight ball joint separator that I used on the control arm outer ball joint. Worked like a charm.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html

I don't know why anyone would think they couldn't get a torque wrench on the outer tie rod ball joint nut. There was nothing obstructing it on either side if the wheel was turned properly.

The only thing I haven't torqued to spec is the tie rod nut in the middle, which will be torqued by the alignment shop.

what is a good brand for outer tie rods?

Originally Posted by Brenda325

what is a good brand for outer tie rods?

I used Meyle.

Originally Posted by Brenda325

what is a good brand for outer tie rods?

Lemforder

Ok thanks.. i like the mayle or how ever you spell it too and its at a good price on ecs tuning.. what is a good web site you find parts?

Originally Posted by Brenda325

Ok thanks.. i like the mayle or how ever you spell it too and its at a good price on ecs tuning.. what is a good web site you find parts?

buy your parts from FCP Euro! they will match same online prices as other sites offering same perks. they have free shipping (over $50??), but more importantly is their added "no hassle" Lifetime Warranty they attach to the parts they sell. no brainer if you ask me.

Nice thinks i will look in to that ***55357;***56832;

This video includes tie rod removal, as part of the control arm R&R

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1100117

Sent from my fireproof Samsung Note 4

Originally Posted by Kubs

You have a point but the rack sees loads in tension and compression, not torsion while street driving. I have a friend who works for TRW and they have destroyed several racks by tightening in the inner tie rods without holding the rack from turning. I just want to know if anyone has any long term effects from using the method by the OP.

Totally overthinking here- perhaps if they are rusted fast & you need 150 lb/ft of torque to remove, maybe. Normal replacement you're fine. Good write up by O.P. I have this job & control arms to do tomorrow.

I have good torque wrenches and crows feet, but I have never seen a torque spec such as this, "74 + 7 ft-lb". I asked Bentley the same question, they had no explanation. Can anyone explain what this means. Thanks.