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Old 03-26-2020, 10:16 PM   #1
mjbrox
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Replacing PCV but having problems

my 2006 325 Vert has had the oil pressure light stay on for about 30 seconds especially when cold so I thought I would change the PCV but HOLY ****, it is way too tight in there.

I cant seem to find a relevant DIY on this

Is this really that hard of a job? i cant even see the crankcase vent valve
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Old 03-26-2020, 11:15 PM   #2
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Search for "ccv system" or "ccv" to find more info and troubleshooting. Pcv won't yield much results. Its a challenge if you've never done it before but it's very doable. Also you'll want to replace all the ccv system hoses as well if they are original since they will be quite brittle and ready to fall apart by now. If the ofhg needs changing also do that as well since removing the oil filter housing creates more room to do the ccv system. 50s kid has a good video showing what's involved:

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Old 03-27-2020, 06:55 AM   #3
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Its not too bad, and if the age of the CCV is uncertain, or more than 7 yrs old, I would change it.

Use an OEM CCV, you can use cheap ebay CCV pipes, but the CCV itself should be OEM..The best deal is the Genuine BMW winter version with a couple of pipes, then buy the other pipes you need or even a whole cheap kit from amazon or Ebay. Then take the foam off the CCV (not needed) for easier installation

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...on-11617534237
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:58 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by mjbrox View Post
my 2006 325 Vert has had the oil pressure light stay on for about 30 seconds especially when cold so I thought I would change the PCV but HOLY ****, it is way too tight in there.

I cant seem to find a relevant DIY on this

Is this really that hard of a job? i cant even see the crankcase vent valve
If my E46 was showing an oil light on for 30 seconds I wouldn't be looking at the CCV. Was the light red (bad) or yellow (oil level sensor)?
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:59 AM   #5
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I did this a few months ago and like you I at first thought the job daunting. The you tube video diy's are very helpful and should give you the confidence to do the job. It's not hard once you see someone else do it. Everyone here is far more experienced with this than I am, but Ill throw my opinion:

You should buy the special fuel hose clip removal tools, the variety pack at harbor freight worked fine for me.

You should buy the hose pinchers so you can clamp the fuel line at the end of the filter before you remove the fuel rail.

You should replace the coolant hard pipes when you have the intake manifold off/out of the car.

Dont forget to buy a new dipstick tube O ring.

Replace the intake manifold gaskets too.

Spend the $100 for a smoke tester, it will verify that you did the job correctly after re assembly.

Lube the new ccv hoses/o rings before you snap them together, they're very tight.

The worst part of the job for me was forcing my paws into tight spaces to get at fittings and nuts. There are a lot of threads in this forum that will outline everything you should do when replacing the ccv system, spend the time to read them, especially the info from the last couple of years.
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Old 03-27-2020, 07:51 AM   #6
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Also, remember that you learn to put stuff in by taking it out.

CCV was a pitb, made more daunting by so many conflicting views.

You do not need to remove the intake manifold, I'll tell you that. Only issue is connecting the vent tube to the valve itself...but have a beer and plan 2 hours just for that--might take you 30 mins and 2 beers.
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Old 03-27-2020, 08:00 AM   #7
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I haven't watched the video as we've been replacing the CCV system for years.
The first few we struggled, as we were trying to be neat and removing the crumbly parts carefully. Hogwash and a waste of time.

For the uninitiated:
Take photos of where everything goes. Maybe layout the new on the ground correctly for reference and take a photo also.
Then when removing, the plastic is brittle, go with the flow and crumble it up. As long as you don't damage anything else the smaller the pieces are, the easier it comes out.

The new parts are supple and a small amount of grease or petroleum jelly make snapping the bits together easy.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:11 AM   #8
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I'm doing this right now but due to Corona made the job bigger by also doing VCG, OFHG, water pump, belts, etc. Just remove the whole intake manifold, it's not that much more difficult and you can clean way more stuff that way. You'll only need to add in the intake manifold gasket and you'll thank yourself for how much easier it is to replace all the vacuum hoses.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:21 AM   #9
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I'm doing this right now but due to Corona made the job bigger by also doing VCG, OFHG, water pump, belts, etc. Just remove the whole intake manifold, it's not that much more difficult and you can clean way more stuff that way. You'll only need to add in the intake manifold gasket and you'll thank yourself for how much easier it is to replace all the vacuum hoses.
I just did my CCV when I did my OFHG. With the alternator and OFH out of the way, it is a breeze.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:10 PM   #10
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i'll just have to 3rd it to leave doubt out. like dmax and Overboost mentioned. NO NEED TO REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
one thing i can add is, I practiced removal/installation of hoses, click in or twist on while off the car
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:23 PM   #11
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Just to complicate matters, I did the CCV w/ intake in place. Not impossible.

Miles later, I am now getting ready to pull the intake due to insufficient air flow errors. So I will replace CCV again while in there, and hard lines, and crank sensor, and OFHG.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
Also, remember that you learn to put stuff in by taking it out.

CCV was a pitb, made more daunting by so many conflicting views.

You do not need to remove the intake manifold, I'll tell you that. Only issue is connecting the vent tube to the valve itself...but have a beer and plan 2 hours just for that--might take you 30 mins and 2 beers.
Yeah, I was thinking that the coolant lines on the block were of unknown age, along with everything else, so I kind of assumed that the intake would be coming off. Should have been more clear. When I serviced mine I knew that those hard lines were original to the car because the PO told me.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:40 PM   #13
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Thank you everyone! I see now that I need to remove that throttle body so I can do that tonight/tomorrow. I really dont want to remove the intake

I wear an xl-xxl glove so you can only imagine how banged up my hands are going to be after this
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:41 PM   #14
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i'll just have to 3rd it to leave doubt out. like dmax and Overboost mentioned. NO NEED TO REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
one thing i can add is, I practiced removal/installation of hoses, click in or twist on while off the car
practicing the install is a great idea
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:43 PM   #15
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If my E46 was showing an oil light on for 30 seconds I wouldn't be looking at the CCV. Was the light red (bad) or yellow (oil level sensor)?
Now you have me worried. It is yellow and I understand that it may not be the CCV but since I have 120k miles, it was due anyway.

Im not in a huge rush since its more of a fair weather car and the snow is currently falling, but i would like to get this all straight so I can get it out of the garage.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:51 PM   #16
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Now you have me worried. It is yellow and I understand that it may not be the CCV but since I have 120k miles, it was due anyway.

Im not in a huge rush since its more of a fair weather car and the snow is currently falling, but i would like to get this all straight so I can get it out of the garage.
That is good info. The yellow light indicates you need to replace your oil level sensor in the bottom of the oil pan (providing your engine has the correct level of oil). 3 small bolts hold it in place and an easy replacement if you are already changing the oil. You will need to pull the reinforcement plate underneath to get to it but very easy.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 89325iguy View Post
I did this a few months ago and like you I at first thought the job daunting. The you tube video diy's are very helpful and should give you the confidence to do the job. It's not hard once you see someone else do it. Everyone here is far more experienced with this than I am, but Ill throw my opinion:

You should buy the special fuel hose clip removal tools, the variety pack at harbor freight worked fine for me.

You should buy the hose pinchers so you can clamp the fuel line at the end of the filter before you remove the fuel rail.

You should replace the coolant hard pipes when you have the intake manifold off/out of the car.

Dont forget to buy a new dipstick tube O ring.

Replace the intake manifold gaskets too.

Spend the $100 for a smoke tester, it will verify that you did the job correctly after re assembly.

Lube the new ccv hoses/o rings before you snap them together, they're very tight.

The worst part of the job for me was forcing my paws into tight spaces to get at fittings and nuts. There are a lot of threads in this forum that will outline everything you should do when replacing the ccv system, spend the time to read them, especially the info from the last couple of years.
Yes to all this (though I don't think you will need smoke tester). Remove the manifold and do all the stuff under there. You will be glad you did.

If you remove the manifold, you will need the gasket, but also new o-rings for the injectors (only the top, though you can do the bottom, it is cheap).

As for the fuel line, either unplug the pump under the back seat or remove the pump fuse and start the car. It will draw all the gas out of the line and remove the pressure, then you can press the shrader valve with a rag at the ready to release any remaining pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbrox View Post
Thank you everyone! I see now that I need to remove that throttle body so I can do that tonight/tomorrow. I really dont want to remove the intake

I wear an xl-xxl glove so you can only imagine how banged up my hands are going to be after this
Don't be afraid to remove the intake. It seems challenging, and it is scary removing all the plugs, but it is not hard at all, and if you are worried put a label on each connector with masking tape. You will learn a ton, and you will likely find one or two things to fix that will be dead easy with the intake off.

I do a routine on 125k+ cars that is pre-cat O2, cooling, CCV, starter, crankshaft/oil pressure/oil temp sensor, OFHG, intake gasket, all intake rings, and all intake boots and hoses. It is not that expensive ($1k-$1.5k) relative to the huge leap forward in reliability and the avoidance of hassle. Most folks piece it out over time, which is totally rational (especially if you have a tight budget).

I also have lengths of various gauge split-wire loom, and I clean connectors and replace the loom while I have the harness opened up. It is always cracked to hell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMCar View Post
I haven't watched the video as we've been replacing the CCV system for years.
The first few we struggled, as we were trying to be neat and removing the crumbly parts carefully. Hogwash and a waste of time.

For the uninitiated:
Take photos of where everything goes. Maybe layout the new on the ground correctly for reference and take a photo also.
Then when removing, the plastic is brittle, go with the flow and crumble it up. As long as you don't damage anything else the smaller the pieces are, the easier it comes out.

The new parts are supple and a small amount of grease or petroleum jelly make snapping the bits together easy.
Use oil to make it slippery - always a good idea to lubricate with the fluid that will be going through it.

Last edited by Archbid; 03-27-2020 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:18 PM   #18
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That is good info. The yellow light indicates you need to replace your oil level sensor in the bottom of the oil pan (providing your engine has the correct level of oil). 3 small bolts hold it in place and an easy replacement if you are already changing the oil. You will need to pull the reinforcement plate underneath to get to it but very easy.

okay, im due for an oil change anyway. Ill order that from FCP today
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:35 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
That is good info. The yellow light indicates you need to replace your oil level sensor in the bottom of the oil pan (providing your engine has the correct level of oil). 3 small bolts hold it in place and an easy replacement if you are already changing the oil. You will need to pull the reinforcement plate underneath to get to it but very easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbrox View Post
okay, im due for an oil change anyway. Ill order that from FCP today
Have you checked oil level? That may be why yellow light is on..
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Old 03-31-2020, 07:50 PM   #20
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@mjbrox

I replaced my CCV with the CCV DIY that replaces the CCV with a traditional PCV setup.

The setup was used on two e46's and I have never regretted it. The newer e46 when acquired needed some TLC and it had the usual yellow goop in the pipes. Once I replaced with the CCV/PCV DIY smells gone, goop gone and car runs awesome. Some may disagree but IMHO its the right approach for the e46. Search for E46 DIY CCV or see link below.

thanks,
Mike

Link to the DIY: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...c-Heavy)/page1
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