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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:21 PM   #21
furlan
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Help

That's exactly what I was needing. Thank you very much.
I have this problem when I position the gearbox in position P or change too fast. On the scanner it has = gearbox (P0705)
But I have a question. When I mount the switch, do I need to grease the contacts with grease? Or just cleaning with WD40 and I can keep the contacts dry?
Thanks
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:22 PM   #22
jjrichar
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The switch comes with grease, so I put a little more in. Also, the switches on my cars aren't like the one I pulled apart for the project. They have a couple of thin brass arms that slide along a brass strip. I bent the brass arms so they put a bit more pressure where they contact.

Last edited by jjrichar; 06-20-2019 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:44 AM   #23
furlan
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Perfect.
I'll check it out tomorrow. I think it may be water too because the car was very clean when I bought it, I believe the old owner washed underneath.
thanks for the agility in the response
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:57 PM   #24
furlan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
The switch comes with grease, so I put a little more in. Also, the switches on my cars aren't like the one I pulled apart for the project. They have a couple of thin brass arms that slide along a brass strip. I bent the brass arms so they put a bit more pressure where they contact.
One more doubt.
After performing the repair on the switch, did you need to pass the scanner?
or there is no need?
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:59 PM   #25
jjrichar
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If the switch works OK then the transmission will work fine. The code will be kept in memory, but the transmission will perform without a problem.
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:06 PM   #26
roshman5000
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Interesting. I recently replaced original g.box at 200k slippy miles with a 50K mile "off insurance claimer") the car runs and shifts strong.., but not always. I'm uncertain if my ZF5HP installer bothered replacing or rebuilding this selector switch. I gather he didn't since I occasionally get the COG Wheel of Death and the limping begins. Is weird becuase the car can be fine for 2 weeks, then the cog reappears one morning and may be fine the next day or not. Since this is a new swap, and I can't be sure if the replacement trans came with a new switch or if the machanic used my old one.....shouldn't I just install a new one instead of taking it apart for piece of mind?
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Old 06-24-2019, 07:35 PM   #27
furlan
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I repaired my switch and so far the gear has not appeared. I hope it does not show up any more.
but I've heard some people saying that there is a lack of battery voltage. these cases seemed to be when the car was going stoped long time.
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Old 06-24-2019, 08:16 PM   #28
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Roshman, your call on whether you replace or fix the old one. Fixing will cost you close to nothing and is a pretty simple DIY. Getting it off is most of the battle, and you have to do this for both methods. It will be like new once you are done.

Furlan, regards the low voltage battery. I suspect when voltage is low, a failing switch is going to show up earlier. Removing and cleaning is always going to be required rather than just replacing the battery.
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Old 06-24-2019, 09:17 PM   #29
furlan
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My e46 has 85,000km, it's in 2001. The switch was new on the inside, but I think one of the contacts is not correct at the end. What is it eventually created to crash.
Thanks
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Old 06-25-2019, 12:12 AM   #30
roshman5000
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ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
Roshman, your call on whether you replace or fix the old one. Fixing will cost you close to nothing and is a pretty simple DIY. Getting it off is most of the battle, and you have to do this for both methods. It will be like new once you are done.

Furlan, regards the low voltage battery. I suspect when voltage is low, a failing switch is going to show up earlier. Removing and cleaning is always going to be required rather than just replacing the battery.
Et - jjrichar
Thank you for the feedback. I've had one heck of a time with the transition to this new gear box. It can be a bit frustrating when communicating to various shops or tech in the area, and the trans installer seems to have grown an attitude when I addressed this bs with him. Sometimes I find great work, or can manage the little stuff on my own. My biggest issue is I do not have a lift to get the exaust out of the way to perform this labor. However, my exhaust guy is very reasonable and may be able to lend a hand getting this switch pulled off. I also have a neighbor who knows the e46 well that does have a short lift in his flat. So, I'm not throwing in the towel just yet. I'm a computer guy by trade and fairly new restoring the 46. This forum has been a lifesaver and a great learning tool.
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Old 06-25-2019, 04:08 AM   #31
jjrichar
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Originally Posted by roshman5000 View Post
Et - jjrichar
Thank you for the feedback. I've had one heck of a time with the transition to this new gear box. It can be a bit frustrating when communicating to various shops or tech in the area, and the trans installer seems to have grown an attitude when I addressed this bs with him. Sometimes I find great work, or can manage the little stuff on my own. My biggest issue is I do not have a lift to get the exaust out of the way to perform this labor. However, my exhaust guy is very reasonable and may be able to lend a hand getting this switch pulled off. I also have a neighbor who knows the e46 well that does have a short lift in his flat. So, I'm not throwing in the towel just yet. I'm a computer guy by trade and fairly new restoring the 46. This forum has been a lifesaver and a great learning tool.
Why are you removing the exhaust? The switch is on the left side of the transmission and the exhaust runs down the right. All you need to do to remove the switch is put the car on jack stands, remove a couple of nuts for the shift cable, and then remove the switch. Very simple.
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:29 AM   #32
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I'll start over with this issue here. Please excuse the length, and not to hi-jack this thread. Thanks.

First - jjrichar.. You are correct about the exhaust. I am mistaken about mentioning having to remove it to get to the switch. My bad.
I did this much yesterday... Returned the car to the local BMW dealer to confirm the issue is the switch. Another reason I went there is because they have a new switch in stock that is supposed to work on my gear box. As a courtesy, the dealer took the car back in to run the SW scan. At that time, and throughout the day, the car was operating normal for the most part. I did notice a couple of times the dash indication may not have been "indicating" correctly..yet the car ran issue free.

Instead of returning home and back, while the dealer was looking at the car, I test drove 3 slightly used goodies they had on the lot under 30 Gs. They had a sharp aqua-marine looking 440? or 435? coupe 8 speed with a 6.. I really liked. I didnt buy it though, cuz they won't come off the 28.5 asking. A customer also has the extact same car as mine in the shop there that looks brand spanking. I asked the advisor to ask the owner if he/she wants to sell it and at whatever cost.

Back to my minor dilemma. The BMW shop paged me back to the serve desk. They seemed to appear that my 46 may be ready to be set to pasture and that the Olympus aka Oh-Limp-Us ....or whatever the new Software system is that they use.... seems to point to internal issues and external issues cleary with this new-to-me gearbox. Codes " 03C / 072 " TRANSMISSION SWITCH & STEPTRONIC SWITCH. I was skeptical, because I know the SW still reads 2 internal and 2 external codes. They also seem to think I may need to attend to the valve body or EKG? Regardless, I have the snapshot of the diag screen and will post it shortly. I see now, that I will go ahead and attempt to resolve this myself. It appears the 3 places I have taken it to may be scared to touch anything and open up liability.

My question to these shops, including the dealer, is.. why wouldn't you just install the switch and charge me the hour or two, have me initial a "we aren't liable" if this doesn't resolve your issue clause, and then send me on my merry way? At this point I will proceed with doing this myself, as advised. Instead of worrying about the condition of the vavle body and the other end of the shift cable...let's proceed with the easy stuff coming up on the Software Prog and see if another flash clears these other codes. The young lad at the dealer does believe it's an EKG or internal issue as well...and we shall see if we prove him incorrect. I'll give him 4 stars, since he did seem intelligent and concerned. He also showed me how to access the other end of the cable at the shift lever. He mentioned nothing appears out of the norm there. I won't debate the lad. I left the shop with a fresh wash and a $0 bill, so I can't complain. And, I really didn't notice a continuing indicator issue. Maybe slightly, such as a slow response in change from P to D.

This new dealership has regained my trust now. I had major issues with the head service Honcho early on when they first opened for business. He was canned along with other Advisors recently. My gearbox installer also tells me he's keeping my trans core since he already rebuilt it. He can kiss my A double SS. As a footnote... I sometimes get pushback as to why don't I just fix stuff myself? Some of this stuff I can do myself, some of it I need help because two of my four fingers were cut pretty bad when I was a youngster and they don't want to operate or grip so well. I also need to invest in a couple of decent ramps.
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Last edited by roshman5000; 06-26-2019 at 03:19 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:01 AM   #33
jjrichar
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That sounds like the dealership doesn't understand the transmission. This is pretty typical of most dealerships, as they never actually work on the transmissions. In the 6 speed transmissions that followed in the years after ours, the TCM was inside the transmission, so you could have 'internal' codes as they describe. The 5HP19 has only basic electronics on the inside. If it's working normally most of the time and then having a glitch that throws a code, it isn't going to be anything to do with the valve body. It's some electrical short or something like that creating the problem. If you have switch codes, fixing the switch or cleaning the contacts on the plugs to the transmission will fix the problem 99 times out of a hundred.

Personal opinion. If a dealership says the solution to fixing a problem they don't know how to solve is for me to buy another car from them, I will give them the forks and tell them to FO. To me this behaviour is unconscionable, but seems to be commonplace around the world these days.
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Old 06-26-2019, 04:02 AM   #34
roshman5000
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jjrichar
I got the new switch in hand now, and will install it when I get the time. For now, the issue has gone away. Not sure if this is from flashing the system again.
I appreciate your feedback here. Plus, I agree with you about the inner workings of the dealership game. I'm sure they would rather sell me a newer unit. I took it upon myself to kick some tires while waiting, just to get a better feel of some models I have either rented or that might be in my price range.. should I hope to upgrade one day.

Last edited by roshman5000; 07-02-2019 at 05:17 AM. Reason: add
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Old 07-05-2019, 01:05 PM   #35
lhendrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEADF15H View Post
Be careful with the large nut that holds the linkage to the switch. I stripped the Post
Make sure the threads are clean.
So DEADFISH and anyone else reading, minutes after reading this post, I went out and tried to remove my switch to replace and actually snapped off the last 1/4 inch of the post with the nut attached, Nut was badly corroded and I should have heated it in addition to using penetrating oil.

I still have enough post to protrude through the replacement switch but probably not enough to fasten a new nut to hold it all together.

Any suggestions?

Maybe I can weld on a treaded rod and clean it up with a die set.....

I looked at the parts fiche and the post is not sold as an individual part, it comes with the whole housing....$$$$$

I'm going to put the replacement switch on with a new nut on what's left of the broken off post and see what happens... will report.

Last edited by lhendrick; 07-05-2019 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 07-05-2019, 05:46 PM   #36
jjrichar
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lhendrick, can you post a photo of the problem. On the project transmission the switch is bolted to the transmission housing with screws. It isn't nuts that fasten to threaded post. Are you saying that your transmission is different? The parts list has screws.
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Old 07-06-2019, 09:18 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhendrick View Post
So DEADFISH and anyone else reading, minutes after reading this post, I went out and tried to remove my switch to replace and actually snapped off the last 1/4 inch of the post with the nut attached, Nut was badly corroded and I should have heated it in addition to using penetrating oil.

I still have enough post to protrude through the replacement switch but probably not enough to fasten a new nut to hold it all together.

Any suggestions?

Maybe I can weld on a treaded rod and clean it up with a die set.....

I looked at the parts fiche and the post is not sold as an individual part, it comes with the whole housing....$$$$$

I'm going to put the replacement switch on with a new nut on what's left of the broken off post and see what happens... will report.
I misspoke, the nut I stripped was part of the linkage, not part of the selector switch.

I've attached the RealOEM.com page so you can point out your issue. BTW, jjrichar is the resident transmission expert. The guy takes apart transmissions for the fun of it.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:14 AM   #38
lhendrick
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Originally Posted by DEADF15H View Post
I misspoke, the nut I stripped was part of the linkage, not part of the selector switch.

I've attached the RealOEM.com page so you can point out your issue. BTW, jjrichar is the resident transmission expert. The guy takes apart transmissions for the fun of it.
Thanks. It's the rod (one of the many parts listed as "x") that goes from the transmission right through the position switch (part #9), next to seal, part #2.

At the right end of that rod you can see it is threaded for a nut that locks the connection rod that comes from the shifter.

That nut was rusted to the end of the rod and it snapped off the last 1/2 inch of the rod when I ham-fisted it. This left me without enough thread protruding to get a nut on it.


I was able to connect the shifter rod, but it pops off if I shift a few times since it is not fastened with a nut anymore. When it pops off I can no longer shift to any gear. The car is now stuck in Neutral and in my garage.

Ironically, the replacement (used) position switch I installed during this disaster is actually working fine.

If JJrichar the OP or anyone else has any ideas please post. Thanks.
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Old 07-08-2019, 05:38 PM   #39
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Can you confirm the bit that has broken off is what I call the 'shaft' in the first photo at the start of this thread?

If so, I'm not going to sugar coat it. What has happened isn't good, but the transmission definitely doesn't have to come out to fix. It will take a bit of work. Take a look at the link below. It shows what the shaft connects to inside the transmission and how to remove. You will have to drain the fluid and drop the pan, but I don't think you will have to remove the valve body or filter, which saves you some work. The photos in that thread don't have the valve body there, but I think you might be able to knock out the pin that holds it in place with the valve body installed. You will then have to replace the shaft. I'd replace the shaft seal while there as it is dead simple with the shaft removed and this often leaks.

You can definitely buy the shaft as a separate part, but not from BMW. Find your local ZF parts dealer and purchase there. I've put an image from the ZF parts catalog below to confirm this is that part you are talking about.

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...0#post14551480

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Old 07-08-2019, 08:15 PM   #40
lhendrick
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JJrichar: Bingo, you are spot on with the part I broke. While it looks like a lot of work, its great to know there is a way out of this mess. You are an incredible resource. Thanks for your time and expertise. I'll post here when I move forward. Again, thank you.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
Can you confirm the bit that has broken off is what I call the 'shaft' in the first photo at the start of this thread?

If so, I'm not going to sugar coat it. What has happened isn't good, but the transmission definitely doesn't have to come out to fix. It will take a bit of work. Take a look at the link below. It shows what the shaft connects to inside the transmission and how to remove. You will have to drain the fluid and drop the pan, but I don't think you will have to remove the valve body or filter, which saves you some work. The photos in that thread don't have the valve body there, but I think you might be able to knock out the pin that holds it in place with the valve body installed. You will then have to replace the shaft. I'd replace the shaft seal while there as it is dead simple with the shaft removed and this often leaks.

You can definitely buy the shaft as a separate part, but not from BMW. Find your local ZF parts dealer and purchase there. I've put an image from the ZF parts catalog below to confirm this is that part you are talking about.

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...0#post14551480

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