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Old 10-07-2017, 10:45 AM   #1
Vantri
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CCV Hose Insulation

While cleaning the engine of my son's "new" 325i, I was using compressed air to clean out all the leaves and debris which collected as it sat for months. Unfortunately, the compressed air ripped apart the dry rotted CCV hose insulation.

Upon some research I learned how brittle the CCV components are and what a major PIA the system is to replace therefore I am very hesitant to disturb anything.

Are we ok running the vehicle without the insulation?

Also wondering whether the impending failure should be corrected via a CCV replacement kit or oil catch can?
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:49 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Vantri View Post
While cleaning the engine of my son's "new" 325i, I was using compressed air to clean out all the leaves and debris which collected as it sat for months. Unfortunately, the compressed air ripped apart the dry rotted CCV hose insulation.

Upon some research I learned how brittle the CCV components are and what a major PIA the system is to replace therefore I am very hesitant to disturb anything.

Are we ok running the vehicle without the insulation?

Also wondering whether the impending failure should be corrected via a CCV replacement kit or oil catch can?
That’s just the insulation, you’re ok. That said, the CCV and related components are probably getting up there in age and miles. Replacing it now depends on whether you’re a PM or wait-until-it-breaks kind of guy.
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Old 10-07-2017, 11:47 AM   #3
orb
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Honestly it's not a hard DIY at all. I'd rather do that than any cooling system or suspension work. You also get to clean several intake components that'll restore performance.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:35 PM   #4
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It's not a hard DIY. I'd recommend removing the intake manifold. Makes the job 100x easier and you can do some other stuff while it's off. Changing my CCV solved all my lean codes and the car ran much better.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:50 PM   #5
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If you remove the intake manifold you kinda open pandora's box since inaccessible parts are now well within reach and would be silly to not replace at the time of manifold removal.

The CCV is not hard really, but it will take you quite a bit of time, and there's no reason to pull the manifold. I would recommend you do it very soon, especially if it hasn't been replaced.

Check out my maintenance thread in my signature (page 3) and you can see the work involved in doing mine.
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:28 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies and votes of confidence. From my reading and viewing videos, the CCV components seem to break if you even look at them wrong. The oil pan gasket needs replacing and by the looks of #6 spark plug the VC gasket is in the near future. Couple more months to get these done before my son gets his license.

So far the car's had the following sorted out: Power steering canister, coolant expansion tank, MAF sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter with hoses, spark plugs, oil filter canister gasket, and engine/trans/diff fluids.
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:37 PM   #7
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You don't need to do the insulation...nor do anything with the ccv until you see evidence it's failing.

Instead, just put new pulleys and belts on...maybe flush the cooling system and do Water Pump and thermostat?

Removing the intake mani isn't easy if you've never done it before and is a pain anyway if you have...and you do not need to remove it for the CCV replacement if it ever comes up...and you don't need the cold weather kit CCV either.

Have fun!
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Old 10-08-2017, 08:42 AM   #8
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Changing the CCV isn’t a fun job but it’s very doable if you know a few tricks.
- label all connectors
- have a long blade screwdriver for the hose clamps

The hardest part is getting the hose that runs from the air distribution manifold connected to the CCV body. Why? Unlike the other hoses that click into position, this hose requires a 90 degree rotation to lock onto the CCV body! Here’s how to do that:
- tie a 2’ piece of string to the top of the hose
- tie the other end of the string around the oil fill cap
- shove the hose down between the intake runners
- push the top of the hose down so that the top is even with the runners
- rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that the bottom of the CCV body is facing the engine block
- use a screwdriver to force the hose connector towards the CCV body
- rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that the bottom is facing down
- pull the string to pull the top of the hose back into position.

The CCV, imho, was designed by an engineer who’d been fired by Audi. I went with an oil catch can in my recently departed 2001 330Ci. Stopped burning oil.

The oil pan gasket is a bit of a bear to change as the subframe has to come out. The subframe supports the engine. The pan gasket isn’t a common failure on these engines. More likely you have an oil leak from the oil filter housing gasket and/or the VANOS hose. Replacing both while replacing the CCV system makes all three tasks (gasket, hose, CCV) much easier. The gasket is less than $10 from the dealer. The hose is about $30 from fcpeuro.
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:04 AM   #9
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Thanks for the CCV tip Markus!

Re the suspected oil pan leak ... the oil filter housing seal, camshaft timing control supply line, and oil pressure switch were all just replaced within 10,000 miles.
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Old 10-08-2017, 01:13 PM   #10
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I think people are over simplifying the ease of a complete CCV job. Sure, it's not painstakingly hard.... but saying it is "easy" is a bit of a stretch. It's straightforward, just incredibly involved. For starters, doing this job for example will make you very much aware of your back and how much it hurts. No one has mentioned that
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Old 10-08-2017, 01:32 PM   #11
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Like others said it's not a big deal that some of that insulation crumbled away. Assuming the ccv is original it wouldn't hurt to do it but if you not having symptoms of needing to do it it's not particularly necessary.

If you end up doing it is up to you. If it were me I probably would because you said it's a few more months until your son gets his license. So I'm guessing it's not being driven right now? So if you do it you can take your time, label all connections as you unplug them and maybe even go crazy replacing a bunch of relatively cheap rubber parts in the process.

If you end up doing it whether now or sometime in the future, have your son help with it. Maybe he'll like working on the car and then he'll have a new hobby!
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Old 10-08-2017, 01:43 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TR4G- View Post
I think people are over simplifying the ease of a complete CCV job. Sure, it's not painstakingly hard.... but saying it is "easy" is a bit of a stretch. It's straightforward, just incredibly involved. For starters, doing this job for example will make you very much aware of your back and how much it hurts. No one has mentioned that
Yes, jack the front end up. I'm 6'3" and mine was KILLING me.

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Old 10-08-2017, 01:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TR4G- View Post
I think people are over simplifying the ease of a complete CCV job. Sure, it's not painstakingly hard.... but saying it is "easy" is a bit of a stretch. It's straightforward, just incredibly involved. For starters, doing this job for example will make you very much aware of your back and how much it hurts. No one has mentioned that
+1 the stupid metal clips that hold the wiring harness on the injectors are pretty tricky to get off but even worse trying to get them back on again unless there is some trick I haven't heard about yet.. double check all hoses for leaks when reinstalling everything. I just did this and now I have an Evap leak somewhere....

It also kills your back like tr4g said. Putting it on stands isn't necessary but your vertebrae will thank you later.
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:05 PM   #14
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..... If you end up doing it whether now or sometime in the future, have your son help with it. Maybe he'll like working on the car and then he'll have a new hobby!
Absolutely! He's with me every step of the way. Really enjoying this experience thus far. I just don't want to get too ambitious and then have an unnecessary project backfire. Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2017, 11:21 AM   #15
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Yeah that's completely understandable haha
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:20 AM   #16
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did mine without taking off manifold , too many worms to deal with that route


and it was a fkn pia

that said, i'd do it same way again

the front control arms were worse, but this is an easy second


took me a damn half hour to get valve with hose on it up and under , it has to be just right and you're doing it blind, but it can be done

and fyi, put the dipstick o ring in the hole first , not on the stick , it's tight and you should feel a pop when the stick fits in properly

this and the valve are usually the two places you'll have a leak when done


and replace the air sep o rings as well
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:50 PM   #17
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If you haven't seen it yet BavAuto.com has a great step by step 3 part video that I used.

https://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-vi...lation-system/
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:09 PM   #18
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Since no one else addressed this I will. I’m a believer in getting rid of that plastic crap. I would do a ccv delete and go with a catch can or even better m56 aluminum valve cover.

The m56 aluminum cover has a built in ccv chamber. Much more reliable and the bonus of not having to worry about valve cover warping or anything. Good luck. I’ve done both and have videos and pics if you need advice.


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Old 10-11-2017, 04:03 AM   #19
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50s Kid ccv video is the BEST guide!



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Old 10-11-2017, 07:48 AM   #20
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You don’t need to remove the intake manifold to replace the CCV! Removing the CCV has 3 issues:
- you could end up inadvertently damaging a vacuum hose or the cooling system plastic pipe
- you could screw up the installation of the intake
- scope creep whereby by you justify additional “work” with the “while I’m in there” meme.

Replacing the CCV without removing the intake isn’t that hard. I did it 3x in my recently departed E46. Ultimately, the CCV isn’t the real solution. The real solution is an oil catch can. The CCV was designed by an engineer who’d been fired by Audi. IMHO


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