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Old 04-14-2018, 08:28 AM   #3601
mpvue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbn74 View Post
I am having some issues replacing my expansiontank and upper radiator hose. First attemt resulted in a leak where the hose attaches to the ex.tank. Thought it was a bad hose (FEBI) so I bought a new one from another brand. It is leaking from the exact same spot :-(

So I am thinking it must be the ex.tank (FEBI), also brand new. The o-ring should be part of the hose or am I missing an o-ring on the ex.tank?

The hoses snaps in as they should and when I am pulling hard om them they don´t move.
the problem with leaking from new parts is the O-RINGS ARE DRY. they really should be removed and greased, with vacuum grease.
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Old 04-14-2018, 08:45 AM   #3602
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I just started this refresh and the top and bottom aluminium plates of the radiator are slightly wider on the new radiator core. This means the mounting plate doesn't line up quite properly. It looks as though cutting the bottom plate back about 5mm will enable the mounting plate to fit, but I don't know if it will fit back in the car. Has anyone done this? Don't want to take to it with the grinder until I know it'll work as otherwise I'll send it back for a refund. Problem there is all the replacement radiators I've seen look the same ...... ???????? HELP ME
What brand is it.

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Old 04-14-2018, 09:18 AM   #3603
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I coat the O-rings in coolant when installing new parts. As said above you need either that or a suitable grease otherwise they will bind.
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:15 PM   #3604
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So my 2005 330i has 205,000 mi on it. I bought it used about 50k mi ago and is the only Beamer I've owned. As far as I know the thermostat was never changed, but could be wrong on that. I noticed the dash gauge runs cool in the winter (just between C and midway) and right in the middle in the warmer months. Is this normal for Beamers bc it's not for all the other vehicles I've owned where the needle stays static unless there is a failure.
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:51 PM   #3605
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Originally Posted by mbittenbender View Post
So my 2005 330i has 205,000 mi on it. I bought it used about 50k mi ago and is the only Beamer I've owned. As far as I know the thermostat was never changed, but could be wrong on that. I noticed the dash gauge runs cool in the winter (just between C and midway) and right in the middle in the warmer months. Is this normal for Beamers bc it's not for all the other vehicles I've owned where the needle stays static unless there is a failure.


soft fail, mine was doing the same thing and was sticking open, causing overcooling.
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Old 05-01-2018, 10:27 PM   #3606
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Originally Posted by das_autobahn View Post
soft fail, mine was doing the same thing and was sticking open, causing overcooling.
Did you have it replaced or was the unit fixable? It's been running like this for me for at least a year now.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:13 AM   #3607
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Originally Posted by mbittenbender View Post
Did you have it replaced or was the unit fixable? It's been running like this for me for at least a year now.
Mine did this for the second time this past winter. It's a disposable part and simple to replace, (BUUUT while your in there it's best to do more cooling system maintenance. Flush, upper and lower hoses, water pump, tank). Go with Behr like I did on my second one. I did the Gates the 1st time around... Lasted a few months.
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:29 AM   #3608
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You could get away with just doing the thermostat, but I agree, while you're in there, having drained the rad, etc., might as well do the pump and hoses if they appear original, and prob expansion tank (get a BMW tank).
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:08 AM   #3609
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Originally Posted by mbittenbender View Post
Did you have it replaced or was the unit fixable? It's been running like this for me for at least a year now.


i replaced it and the upper hoses along with the water pump and a flush.

been working perfect since
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:16 AM   #3610
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Did you fill until dipstick float is even with neck?
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:50 PM   #3611
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E46 COOLING SYSTEM GUIDE - overheating/coolant/etc

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Originally Posted by RRRM8E View Post
Did you fill until dipstick float is even with neck?


when i bled the system i got the system hot and while running with the ex tank cap ON i slightly unscrewed the bleed screw to evacuate all remaining air in the system. then tightened the screw back down.

once the engine cooled and not running i opened the ex tank cap and filled to where the top or the float stick was even with the lip of the opening.

repeat this until it stays the same.

fill cold bleed hot.

i have has zero issue with this procedure.

queue the naysayers.

Last edited by das_autobahn; 05-02-2018 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 05-02-2018, 04:12 PM   #3612
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que the naysayers.
Que?

"Queue"...
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:02 PM   #3613
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Que?



"Queue"...


thank you for taking your time out to correct that
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:46 AM   #3614
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader View Post
Mine did this for the second time this past winter. It's a disposable part and simple to replace, (BUUUT while your in there it's best to do more cooling system maintenance. Flush, upper and lower hoses, water pump, tank). Go with Behr like I did on my second one. I did the Gates the 1st time around... Lasted a few months.
Had you noticed if the heater started to feel less warm in either of these cases?
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:51 AM   #3615
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Originally Posted by mbittenbender View Post
Had you noticed if the heater started to feel less warm in either of these cases?
But of course. Engine was never getting to full temp.
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Old 05-10-2018, 03:25 PM   #3616
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But of course. Engine was never getting to full temp.
Now I might sound like a cheap bastard by saying this, but can that valve be "unstuck" or is it just as much work to do that as to replace?
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Old 05-10-2018, 03:54 PM   #3617
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Originally Posted by mbittenbender View Post
Now I might sound like a cheap bastard by saying this, but can that valve be "unstuck" or is it just as much work to do that as to replace?
Thermostats are cheap.

Engine replacements are expensive...
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Old 05-10-2018, 04:14 PM   #3618
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Originally Posted by mbittenbender View Post
Now I might sound like a cheap bastard by saying this, but can that valve be "unstuck" or is it just as much work to do that as to replace?
I've been talking about the thermostat, not the heater control valve.
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Old 05-10-2018, 05:11 PM   #3619
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I wouldn't screw around with a thermostat. It id too critical to engine health. They're not expensive, and easy to change.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:07 AM   #3620
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looking for the oring part number that goes on the expansion tank mount plate interface point to the radiator. From what I can tell it comes with the mount plate ? (2003 BMW 325CI convertible/automatic).
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bleeding, coolant, cooling system, diy cooling, expansion tank, lower hose sensor, overheat, radiator, radiator hose, temp sensor, temperature sensor, thermostat, water pump

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