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Old 04-07-2016, 03:18 PM   #1
Knight
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Compression Test - Best Practice & Next Steps?

My cooling system blew up last week, which is very irritating considering I replaced the entire system with OE BMW and OEM parts 2 years ago. Briefly went into the red, but I'm hoping that the early warming from my re-coded temp gauge and the fact that I pulled over immediately saved the head gasket.

Anyway, before I tear into the system, I wanted to make sure the engine was not toast and ordered a compression test kit.

The following steps were followed:

1. Removed all coil packs and spark plugs.
2. Removed DME relay.
3. Removed Fuel Pump fuse.

I ran the test on a cold engine. I understand a warm engine is ideal, but considering the volume of coolant that leaked out when I moved the car into the garage after being towed, I didn't want to mess around with starting/warming the engine up.

Tests were conducted with the accelerator pedal to the floor and 5-6 cranks per cylinder. End results were 180 across the board after the final crank.

That said, I have the following questions:

1. Is this sufficient verification to move onto addressing the cooling system issue and performing the leakdown test?

2. Is a followup wet compression test needed?
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:21 PM   #2
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To be thorough yes I would do a leak down test as well as a test for exhaust gases in the coolant (stores sell them). If it only went into the red for a second, my guess is you're fine.

Do we know what failed exactly? Was it a plumbing issue or an air issue?

Some people say they replaced the entire system but didn't do the aux fan.

Wouldn't want to put in a brand new system only to fail again. What were the conditions? Idling? Freeway? An hour of driving?
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:22 PM   #3
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Your figures sound pretty good.

Sometimes, but I doubt in your case, problems may not show up until the engine warms up again.

Just look for excessive pressure in the cooling system and excessive mayo in under the oil fill cap and a loss of coolant.

What do you think failed in your cooling systems that caused a loose of coolant and the partial overheat?
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:29 PM   #4
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To be thorough yes I would do a leak down test as well as a test for exhaust gases in the coolant (stores sell them). If it only went into the red for a second, my guess is you're fine.

Do we know what failed exactly? Was it a plumbing issue or an air issue?

Some people say they replaced the entire system but didn't do the aux fan.

Wouldn't want to put in a brand new system only to fail again. What were the conditions? Idling? Freeway? An hour of driving?
Not sure of the root cause yet. Probably going to start taking the cooling system apart this weekend.

The car overheated while cruising on some back roads. Short trips, maybe 45 minutes of driving in total.

When I overhauled the system, I converted to an electric fan setup and went with a brand new Bosch unit.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:32 PM   #5
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Your figures sound pretty good.

Sometimes, but I doubt in your case, problems may not show up until the engine warms up again.

Just look for excessive pressure in the cooling system and excessive mayo in under the oil fill cap and a loss of coolant.

What do you think failed in your cooling systems that caused a loose of coolant and the partial overheat?
There was some mayo on the underside of the oil cap, but that could be attributed to a tired CCV and the fact that the last few trips with the car were short ones.

It was a sudden and bad leak. Maybe the ET or a hose? I hope it's not the hard coolant lines...
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:32 PM   #6
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Not sure of the root cause yet. Probably going to start taking the cooling system apart this weekend.

The car overheated while cruising on some back roads. Short trips, maybe 45 minutes of driving in total.

When I overhauled the system, I converted to an electric fan setup and went with a brand new Bosch unit.
How often do you check your coolant? No coolant lights before the overheat? Some E46s require a coolant top off. Wonder if yours had a slow leak where it pulled air into the system.

Your belts and pulleys check fine? Let us know what you find
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:33 PM   #7
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fix the leak, warm up the engine and do a wet and dry test.. your numbers are higher, when i did mine a few years back all i got is 170 across 6 cylinders.. i used a rental tester though from autozone.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #8
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There was some mayo on the underside of the oil cap, but that could be attributed to a tired CCV and the fact that the last few trips with the car were short ones.

It was a sudden and bad leak. Maybe the ET or a hose? I hope it's not the hard coolant lines...
How about that hose that connects to the bottom of the expansion tank? Very common for it to be overlooked.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:35 PM   #9
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fix the leak, warm up the engine and do a wet and dry test.. your numbers are higher, when i did mine a few years back all i got is 170 across 6 cylinders.. i used a rental tester though from autozone.
Compression test wont tell you much, IMO. That just tells you instantaneous compression. If you cracked a head or hg, you'll get a slow leak over time and under pressure/heat. This is where a leak down comes in. But for the sake of being thorough why not i guess.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:55 PM   #10
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Fix the cooling system problem and drive the car.

You will know very quickly if there is a problem once the engine warms up and you start driving.

Misfiring, temp increasing, too much pressure in the cooling system, hard radiator hoses when cold, loose of coolant, coolant smell and smoke out the exhaust.

Drive it like you stole it, if it has no problems, move on!
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Old 04-11-2016, 03:08 PM   #11
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I appreciate everyone's input/responses.

For the leakdown test, do I need to have coolant in the system?

(Trying to gauge if this is something worth doing prior to taking apart the cooling system.)
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:01 AM   #12
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To follow up on this thread, the root cause was a sudden failure of the water pump. I went with a Hepu unit (German made, well reviewed) at the time of overhaul and the flimsy welds on the impeller failed after 40K miles, separating it into 2 pieces and causing a massive and rapid loss of coolant.

After getting her back on the road, the car was driven 15K+ miles without incident.

I am, however, observing a slow loss of coolant over time, although nothing shows up when I pressurize the system and let it sit. Due to change the coolant this summer in any case, so I will give it a thorough check at that time.
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:43 AM   #13
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If you have not replaced the O-ring on temperature sensor in the lower radiator hose in the last 5 years, replace it. No tools required, remove sensor on a cold engine with the cooling system sealed and you should loose less than 1 cup of coolant while you remove the sensor and change the O-ring and reinstall.

You WILL feel the difference when you go to reinstall the sensor and you WILL feel resistance that you did not feel when you removed the sensor.

These O-ring seep coolant ONLY when the engine is cold and it will not leak on the ground. You may see some staining on the lower engine cover and if there is ANY moisture in the sensor pocket before you remove the sensor the O-ring is leaking.

O-ring part number is the last item in my signature.
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:48 AM   #14
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Knight... I'm due for a new water pump within the next 10k. When you say the impeller failed and then caused a massive coolant loss, can you elaborate? Did the pump itself fracture and externally blow out coolant?
Ps. Love the sig picture, I alaways think it's my car.
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Old 07-10-2017, 01:20 PM   #15
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Knight... I'm due for a new water pump within the next 10k. When you say the impeller failed and then caused a massive coolant loss, can you elaborate? Did the pump itself fracture and externally blow out coolant?
Ps. Love the sig picture, I alaways think it's my car.
What style rims are those?
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Old 07-10-2017, 01:51 PM   #16
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What style rims are those?
Most likely answering the question for myself here....The impeller broke apart which led to little or no coolant circulation which led to the overheat.

The wheels are Style 68.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:28 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
If you have not replaced the O-ring on temperature sensor in the lower radiator hose in the last 5 years, replace it. No tools required, remove sensor on a cold engine with the cooling system sealed and you should loose less than 1 cup of coolant while you remove the sensor and change the O-ring and reinstall.

You WILL feel the difference when you go to reinstall the sensor and you WILL feel resistance that you did not feel when you removed the sensor.

These O-ring seep coolant ONLY when the engine is cold and it will not leak on the ground. You may see some staining on the lower engine cover and if there is ANY moisture in the sensor pocket before you remove the sensor the O-ring is leaking.

O-ring part number is the last item in my signature.
Added to my list, thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05SMG View Post
Knight... I'm due for a new water pump within the next 10k. When you say the impeller failed and then caused a massive coolant loss, can you elaborate? Did the pump itself fracture and externally blow out coolant?
Ps. Love the sig picture, I alaways think it's my car.
Thank you! It's a great color.

The metal impeller on the Hepu pump broke into 2 pieces. The shaft itself did not separate from the pump, but the tack-welded bladed piece came undone.

When I pulled over, there was a massive pool of coolant mix forming under the car.

Go with Saleri (OEM) or re-manufactured OE BMW. The composite material is so much stronger than the flimsy metal on the Hepu pump. The impeller on my 120K mile OE unit looked newer coming out than the one on the replacement pump that went in. Even took it out of my spare parts bin and put it back on the car at the time as a temporary band-aid fix without issue.
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Old 07-11-2017, 10:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight View Post
To follow up on this thread, the root cause was a sudden failure of the water pump. I went with a Hepu unit (German made, well reviewed) at the time of overhaul and the flimsy welds on the impeller failed after 40K miles, separating it into 2 pieces and causing a massive and rapid loss of coolant.

After getting her back on the road, the car was driven 15K+ miles without incident.

I am, however, observing a slow loss of coolant over time, although nothing shows up when I pressurize the system and let it sit. Due to change the coolant this summer in any case, so I will give it a thorough check at that time.
I've seen other similar reports of the Hepu pump failing at the metal impeller. I think the OE composite impeller is superior. Which pump did you install afterward?

Check the temp sensor o-ring in the lower radiator hose for seepage.
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:31 AM   #19
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I've seen other similar reports of the Hepu pump failing at the metal impeller. I think the OE composite impeller is superior. Which pump did you install afterward?

Check the temp sensor o-ring in the lower radiator hose for seepage.
I should probably create a warning thread with photos. Funny thing is, my first impression was that it looked flimsy next to the factory-original BMW pump that came out, but I trusted online reviews and being "German-made" over my gut instinct.

Usually water pump failures have been gradual and resorted in a slow leak, but quite rare to suddenly incapacitate the system.

As for the replacement, I bought a Stewart pump.
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