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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:44 PM   #1
GenDisarray83
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Crankcase vent valve replacement

During the PPI for my '04 330ci, the shop told me that I should replace the crankcase vent valve and hoses soon. I see a couple of kits available on fcpeuro:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11617501566kt1
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-m54b30coldkit

I assume that I'd want to go with the cold climate version since I live in New York. However, is that kit overkill? I see that ECS tuning has some more basic kits:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...oemm54oslv1kt/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1/e46m5411_61/

Presumably I'd avoid the second product from ECS since it does not appear to be OEM. However, the ECS level 1 cold climate kit comes with a lot less than FCP Euro's kit.
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:59 PM   #2
GenDisarray83
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Also found this one:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=
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Old 08-19-2019, 07:02 PM   #3
GenDisarray83
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Actually, this might be my best bet:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...617533400~2kt/
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:18 AM   #4
markusmarkus
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The “cold climate” version is BS. The manufacturer merely wraps the CCV body with 2 pieces of foam insulation. All that does is make it longer for the CCV body to get up to temperature. Plus it’s a real PITA to install it.

To prevent the CCV from clogging up drive the car at highway+ speeds for at least 20 miles on a weekly basis. Btw, the engineer who designed the CCV had been fired by Audi before coming to BMW.
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:39 AM   #5
GenDisarray83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
The "cold climate" version is BS. The manufacturer merely wraps the CCV body with 2 pieces of foam insulation. All that does is make it longer for the CCV body to get up to temperature. Plus it's a real PITA to install it.

To prevent the CCV from clogging up drive the car at highway+ speeds for at least 20 miles on a weekly basis. Btw, the engineer who designed the CCV had been fired by Audi before coming to BMW.
I had planned on removing the intake manifold as per 50sKid in order to get better access. Do you think still not worth installing the cold climate version because it does more harm than good? Is the insulation useless for the hoses as well?
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:16 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by GenDisarray83 View Post
I had planned on removing the intake manifold as per 50sKid in order to get better access. Do you think still not worth installing the cold climate version because it does more harm than good? Is the insulation useless for the hoses as well?


You don’t need to remove the intake to replace the CCV. I replaced the CCV on my old 2001 330I three times. The hard part was getting the hose that runs from the intake manifold’s air distribution manifold connected to the CCV body. The connector isn’t a click to connect like the other hoses! The trick is to rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that it’s bottom if facing the engine. Then use a long screwdriver to force the bottom connector of the hose against its mate on the CCV body. Then rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that it’s bottom is pointing down.

Removing the intake manifold can end up being a “while I’m in there” job whereby you start replacing parts just because the manifold is off.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:36 AM   #7
GenDisarray83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GenDisarray83 View Post
I had planned on removing the intake manifold as per 50sKid in order to get better access. Do you think still not worth installing the cold climate version because it does more harm than good? Is the insulation useless for the hoses as well?



You don't need to remove the intake to replace the CCV. I replaced the CCV on my old 2001 330I three times. The hard part was getting the hose that runs from the intake manifold's air distribution manifold connected to the CCV body. The connector isn't a click to connect like the other hoses! The trick is to rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that it's bottom if facing the engine. Then use a long screwdriver to force the bottom connector of the hose against its mate on the CCV body. Then rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that it's bottom is pointing down.

Removing the intake manifold can end up being a "while I'm in there" job whereby you start replacing parts just because the manifold is off.
Can I replace all four hoses (three breather hoses and one oil separator hose) without removing the manifold?
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Old 08-22-2019, 08:02 AM   #8
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Yup! As I have written above, the hard part is getting the hose that runs from the intake manifold air distribution manifold attached to the CCV body. The air distribution manifold is part 5 in the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2879

It sits on top of the actual intake manifold. Here’s the procedure:
- get a 2 foot long piece of string
- tie to the top of the hose connector
- slide the hose down between the intake runners
- push the hose down until the top connector is even with the intake runners
- tie the other end of the string around the oil fill cap
- position the CCV body so that its bottom is facing the engine and not the floor
- use a large flat blade screwdriver to force the bottom end of the hose into the CCV body connector
- rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that its bottom is facing the floor.
- use the string to pull the hose up
- connect the hose to the air distribution manifold.
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:09 PM   #9
GenDisarray83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
Yup! As I have written above, the hard part is getting the hose that runs from the intake manifold air distribution manifold attached to the CCV body. The air distribution manifold is part 5 in the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2879

It sits on top of the actual intake manifold. Here's the procedure:
- get a 2 foot long piece of string
- tie to the top of the hose connector
- slide the hose down between the intake runners
- push the hose down until the top connector is even with the intake runners
- tie the other end of the string around the oil fill cap
- position the CCV body so that its bottom is facing the engine and not the floor
- use a large flat blade screwdriver to force the bottom end of the hose into the CCV body connector
- rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that its bottom is facing the floor.
- use the string to pull the hose up
- connect the hose to the air distribution manifold.
Thanks, I will try!
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Old 08-24-2019, 07:58 PM   #10
GenDisarray83
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Today I did the first half- Pulled out everything to give me access to valve plus hoses and pulled out the hoses. Tomorrow I will unbolt the valve itself and try to install the new valves and hoses and close up. I have a feeling that tomorrow is going to be a lot more difficult than today was, and today wasn't easy...
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:22 PM   #11
GenDisarray83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
Yup! As I have written above, the hard part is getting the hose that runs from the intake manifold air distribution manifold attached to the CCV body. The air distribution manifold is part 5 in the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2879

It sits on top of the actual intake manifold. Here's the procedure:
- get a 2 foot long piece of string
- tie to the top of the hose connector
- slide the hose down between the intake runners
- push the hose down until the top connector is even with the intake runners
- tie the other end of the string around the oil fill cap
- position the CCV body so that its bottom is facing the engine and not the floor
- use a large flat blade screwdriver to force the bottom end of the hose into the CCV body connector
- rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that its bottom is facing the floor.
- use the string to pull the hose up
- connect the hose to the air distribution manifold.
Spent most of the day trying this. Wasn't able to connect CCV and twist CCV 90 degrees. However, it appears that while the connecting line twist off from the CCV valve, it can be connected by snapping it in. Is it possible that I should be snapping it in to connect? Did I misunderstand the instructions?

Ended up stupidly breaking the other end of the connecting line (broke the plastic ring), so I need to order another.
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Old 08-30-2019, 04:07 AM   #12
Matias
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Hi . I have the e46 330d with same problem. It is similar process for this car as well ? Thanks
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Old 08-30-2019, 09:09 AM   #13
markusmarkus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenDisarray83 View Post
Spent most of the day trying this. Wasn't able to connect CCV and twist CCV 90 degrees. However, it appears that while the connecting line twist off from the CCV valve, it can be connected by snapping it in. Is it possible that I should be snapping it in to connect? Did I misunderstand the instructions?

Ended up stupidly breaking the other end of the connecting line (broke the plastic ring), so I need to order another.


Place the CCV body approximately where it will be after you’ve completed this project. Then, rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that the CCV bottom is facing the engine. The CCV body’s connector needs to line up with the “hole” through which the hose from the air distribution manifold will come. Then use a long flat blade screwdriver to push the bottom end of the hose from the air distribution manifold towards the CCV body so that its connector and that of the CCV body are aligned and joined together. Then rotate the CCV body 90 degrees so that its bottom is facing the ground.
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Old 09-13-2019, 06:21 AM   #14
wfx32
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Model: 330XI 08/2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
The “cold climate” version is BS. The manufacturer merely wraps the CCV body with 2 pieces of foam insulation. All that does is make it longer for the CCV body to get up to temperature. Plus it’s a real PITA to install it.

To prevent the CCV from clogging up drive the car at highway+ speeds for at least 20 miles on a weekly basis. Btw, the engineer who designed the CCV had been fired by Audi before coming to BMW.
yeah i have the cold climate version on the 04 but i don't think it makes a difference. the only real solutions are the O2pilot mod or to replace the CCV with an oil catch can?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wfx32 View Post
files/m54x5.pdf
https://drive.google.com/open?id=18v...QPAH6Lsho5ozkV

nice document with lots of good info on the M54. my favorite so far is p4 "NEW PISTONS ... the piston rings have been modified to reduce friction" (!)
or go after the source of the problem .. the excessive "blowby" from these modified rings? i'm thinking about tackling this but it requires a mix of rings from M54 and M52tu.
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