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-   -   P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B (https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=383739)

captain bimmer 07-16-2006 10:08 PM

P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B
I did a search, and all the posts say this is an easy DIY, however I have yet to find an actual post with this simple DIY. I did find one for the intake sensor, but since my code says "B" its for the exhaust camshaft sensor. That is the DIY I need, and cant find. Any help guys? Thanks =)

gfhanson 07-17-2006 12:58 PM

Here's one I found. Replacing the exhaust sensor is easy - its on the front passenger side of the engine as the thread below shows. This thread has photos. Good luck


captain bimmer 07-17-2006 01:12 PM

THANKS SO MUCH!!! How come I couldnt find that post? LOL All I found were people posting how easy the fix is.

captain bimmer 07-17-2006 10:59 PM

I tried tugging/pulling at the harness, pushing on boths sides on what appears to be clips? but the thing wont budge at all from the sensor. Any suggestions?

gfhanson 07-18-2006 01:27 PM

While squeezing both sides of the plug (you'll see the plastic clips), wiggle it back and forth and it should come loose. I just tried it on my '00 323i to make sure I remembered how! Squeeze hard and wiggle it while squeezing. It should come off OK!

Demon Eyes Kyo 02-17-2007 03:45 AM

DIY - Replace Exhaust Camshaft Sensor
I've been driving with the P0365 error code until it was time for my smog inspection that I finally changed the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor

This took me 35 minutes to replace cuz I did not have the proper right angle hex / allen driver to work in the tight engine space.

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Demon Eyes Kyo 02-17-2007 04:00 AM

1. Allow car to cool down (overnight if possible), since you will be sticking your hands into hot compartments of the engine bay.

2. Open hood and on passanger side, locate Exhaust Camshaft Sensor. Squeeze Left / Right tabs and wiggle plastic connector with wire off.


3. The tabs can be stuck on making pulling the connector off very difficult. I found it was best not to stand in front of the car to do this but to stand along the passenger side of the car and use your left hand to reach in and feel the tabs (as you won't be able to see from the angle that you're standing). Squeeze with your left thumb and forefinger and the connector should just wiggle off easily.


4. Push the cable out of the way and it may help to get a
sandwich bag over this to keep dirt out while working.


Demon Eyes Kyo 02-17-2007 08:49 PM

5. This is where if you have the correct garage tools, it will be very easy. But all I used were my old bike 5mm hex / allen key (see pic below) to remove the bolt. There is Loctite on it so you will some strength to initially loosen the bolt.


Demon Eyes Kyo 02-17-2007 08:54 PM

6. Here is the old Exhaust Camshaft Position Sensor - note position of the orig O-ring so you put the new O-ring in the same spot. Put some motor oil on the new O-ring before sliding it on the sensor.


Demon Eyes Kyo 02-18-2007 02:38 AM

7. Insert sensor circle side into the big hole opening (circled in red)


8. Apply a dab of Blue Loctite to the bolt and tighten the bolt down. Make sure the sensor is not loose as oil will leak out if the bolt is not tight.

9. Plug back in the old sensor cable

10. To see if you did this correctly and for 2001 and newer cars, to reset the Service Engine Soon (SES) light:
a. Insert key into ignition and allow the diagnostic to complete before starting the engine.
b. Drive a little bit, stop and shut off engine.
c. Do this twice and on the 3rd time you start the car, the SES light should turn off.
d. If the SES light is still on, you may have to manually RESET the SES light.

Hope this helps y'all with this DIY

idoc330ci 02-24-2007 11:38 AM

awesome diy bro. :thumbup:

vert 03-27-2007 12:09 PM

To confirm, the bolt is regular thread i.e. standing in front of the engine I would be turning left (toward the windshield fluid box) to loosen, correct? I tried last night but it would not budge. I need to get a better hex key though because the one i have is small with not enough leverage. I do understand there is loctite on the bolt, but wanted to check just to make sure before i start putting some pressure on it.

Also maybe someone can shed some light here. My CEL went on, I went to Autozone and read code P0369, asked them to reset then drove around. After a day CEL went on again. Went to Autozone and they read the same code again. Asked them NOT to reset the light. OK, at this point i confirmed the exhaust camshaft sensor so I went to the dealer and picked up the new sensor. Shortly after that while driving the CEL went OFF. I drove today it is still off. I am assuming i still need to replace the sensor, but wondering why would it go off.


bmwstephen 04-07-2007 11:35 PM

what are symptoms of a faulty exhaust cam sensor? Mine isn't throwing any codes, but when the car is in gear at idle, there is a slight vibration and the whole exhaust tends to shake at a stop.

bmwstephen 04-08-2007 05:01 PM


Joelc532 06-07-2007 07:17 PM

after u replace the CPS, does anyone know how to get rid of the SES light, i reset it with my OBD II reader, but the next time i start the car, it comes back on.... the car is running great

garodgers 06-14-2007 11:02 PM

what code was it reading? I had the P0369, replaced CPS, reset the light and it never came back on. If you bought a FEBI CPS, you might have gotten a defective one. Lots of people on here complaining about the high failure rate of those!

Spyder_Venom 06-15-2007 09:51 AM

a CPS code will usually reset itself once you replace the sensor.

Joelc532 06-16-2007 09:15 PM

i replaced mine with an after market sensor and when i first started the car, the light went out, but after that first time, the car spits the same codes, but the car runs fine. How do I fix this? should i get an OEM BMW sensor? codes are p0365 and p1620

b1st 07-01-2007 12:48 PM

Thanks for the great write up, Demon Eyes! I just did this on my car and I think I feel about 20hp difference. I'm not sure if other people experienced about the same or my sensor was exceptionally bad.

One thing I'd add to this is I removed the air intake assembly thing and the radiator fan (VERY easy on manual cars) and it gave me much more room to work with. That bolt was on really tight, I don't know how you removed it just with an allen key. I used an allen bit with a wrench.

dasha877 07-11-2007 01:53 AM

Worked for me
I used this diy procedure and all went well. I'm little concerned about the bolt though. It took a beating while I tightened it, and I think it's a bit stripped. It bugged me enough that I tried to lossen it to make sure it could be done, and it did give way, but now I'm concerned about over tightening it and stripping it further. It's tightened only a quarter turn right now, snug, but not super tight...is this enough to prevent a leak?

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