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Definitive E46 Tensioner Pulley Guide For 323/328/325/330/M3

163K views 286 replies 88 participants last post by  Mango 
#1 ·
This thread will help you decide what pulleys you have and what to buy based on the setup of your particular car.
Begin!

For complete up to date write up of this exact blog as well as other amusing and funny blog postings and other bonus info, see my page here: Mango Definitive E46 Pulley Guide DIY - So you wanna replace your pulleys huh?

Your M5X and S54 engines have three belt-driven tensioner pulleys. The role of the tensioner is either to provide belt-spacing/traction and to quell crankshaft vibrations due to irregular accelerations from the crankshaft. This is done to prolong the life of belt-driven accessories and likely to quiet engine operation.

When should you replace your pulleys?
  • If your pulleys are original: replace them.
  • If you don't know how old they are: replace them.
  • If they are noisy or have excess play: replace them.
  • If they have 60,000 or more miles: replace them.
This is a crude diagram of the front of an M5X engine:



(Other engines such as the S50/S52 and S54 are same/similar. Even some Mercedes/Volvo engines use identical belt routing.)

Pulley 1:

There is only ONE part number that all E46s share (E36 S50 and S52 as well). There are some rare instances where some people have reported their car doesn't have this pulley. Always check before you buy!!

Notice the big nub sticking out of it:



Pulley 2: Main tensioner pulley. Your non-M E46 could have either a hydraulic tensioner or mechanical tensioner.

Look at your engine bay with a flash light and/or feel around the tensioner.

If you have this mechanical ROUND tensioner with HEX-shaped NUT sticking out of it like this:



You need the following: Dayco 89133 purchased at either Amazonian or your local Autozone. It may be under a different part number or name, but if you ask for an a/c tensioner for your E46, it will be the correct part.

This is how the Mechanical Tensioner Dayco 89133 pulley looks:




Pulley 3: A/C pulley.

If your A/C pulley uses a MECHANICAL tensioner as well, you'll again use the Dayco 89133 pulley:



This is the pulley all the way at the bottom. It's usually mechanical (haven't seen a hydraulic setup yet on the E46.) Just check yours to make sure by feeling with your hands or using a flashlight.

Remember: if the tensioner is round and has a hex-shaped nut sticking out of it, it's mechanical and you NEED the Dayco pulley.


Both types of tensioners use different pulleys.

Install tips:

If mechanical, you can use a 16mm or 5/8" socket turned clockwise to ease tension on the tensioner for purposes of removing the belt. Use an extension on your ratchet for extra leverage. Safely remove belt. Then insert appropriate torx or allen-head socket into actual tensioner bolt and turn counter-clockwise to remove bolt that holds the tensioner in.

If hydraulic, you use the bolt that goes through the tensioner to both relieve tension and remove the pulley.

BONUS:

If you want to change the ACTUAL tensioners themselves:

Hydraulic:




Mechanical:



OEM/Ina:

11287512758 (9/02+)
11281433571-1 (up to 9/02)

Common E46 setups: One alternator deflector pulley aka idler pulley, one hydraulic pulley for the main belt, one mechanical pulley for the a/c. (That's how my setup is on my 2002 330i)

Another setup I've seen is: One alternator deflector pulley aka idler pulley, and TWO mechanical pulleys (aka Dayco 89133 pulley) I've seen this on a 2004 330ci.

Your particular setup may vary!

If this has helped you, click on the star-rating at the top of the thread and rate it!
👏
 

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#276 ·
Torque, tensioners, and one time use bolts


I'm planning on replacing the AC tensioner, the alternator tensioner, and the idler pulley on my recently purchased 2004 530i with 200K plus miles. In addition, I'm also changing the water pump, the thermostat, and the upper radiator hose because they are all original! I was wondering what are the torque specs for the bolts holding the tensioners in place, and which of these bolts should be replaced.
Thanks.
 
#11 ·
Does everyone see the irony that when we do DIY's for our own, they seemingly always exceed the instructions put forth in TIS or Bentley, or even the bavauto youtube variety? We do better pictures and more detailed instructions, and add all the possible mistakes that others have made before in order to add real world experience to the mix. Our home brew advice is the best.
 
#13 ·
Stupid dealer told me there was no replacement pully for the AC pulley, ended up doing the tensioner to get the pulley. Thank you for the part number, will use in the future. Again, thanks for your comprehensive work providing those of us that are as nutty as you the part numbers to do the job correctly the first time.
 
#14 ·
In defense of the dealer, BMW does not supply the pulley separately, so if you were the dealer, it would be off limits to go off the ranch to purchase aftermarket parts. The dealer pledges to maintain your vehicle with only genuine BMW parts, and many would accuse them of all sorts of things if they started off the slippery slope of aftermarket parts. Next on the slope would be Chinese parts.
Personally I'd choose to keep the dealer doing just what they do.
 
#18 ·
Yes, tommy d.

As far as adding water pump pulley, no. this is just the tensioner pulleys. i'll modify the thread title.

Also i want you all to notice the "haters" downrating this thread. I think they're mad :rofl:

Why on earth would you rate a helpful thread 1-star? If you think you can do better, step up. :hi: this thread is to help people. apparently, you aren't. you know who you are. If this has been helpful, please rate it 5 stars. The stars doesn't matter to me, but i'd want to counter any moves by hateful/jealous people. :facepalm:

Moving on :)
 
#21 ·
Great thread Mango, now only if people stop making threads about "what pulley I have", the purpose will be fulfilled.

Only thing you should add are belts and part numbers. Since one will be removing the belts anyway, for additional $30 replace the belts as well. New pulleys and old belts or vice versa dont mix well.

I am not sure about the torque values but I will check the TIS and see if I can find them.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Yeah I noticed that the M3 uses the same stuff. I'll edit the post with new info.

to other suggestions from TRJ: As far as belts. no. this is a tensioner pulley only thread. the more crap i add, the more confusing it will be to noobies. all that other info (including this pulley info) is already in my cooling thread.

no other parts will be added to this thread
 
#30 ·
Thanks for the helpful info once again Mango, I swear I sub'd to almost all your threads lol.
 
#33 ·
Personally, I think it's dangerous to say any car has anything in particular...but since it seems like such work for some to see what they have before getting pulleys for the repair, I'd just get two of each and return the set you don't use. I think we've had every combination here in non-Ms...no reason why Ms wouldn't be the same now--many have touched our cars before!
 
#34 ·
I was going to order everything from BMA, but since they don't carry Dayco 89133, just ordered everything from Rockauto.

1. Dayco 89089 - idler pulley, BMW #11287841228
2. Dayco 89046 - hydraulic tensioner pulley, BMW #11281748131
3. Dayco 89133 - AC mechanical tensioner pulley, no individual BMW part.
4. Main belt
5. AC belt

Everything was about $95 shipped.
Thanks to Mango and DMAX for this thread. :D
 
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