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Old 08-22-2010, 03:54 PM   #1
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Uncommon Codes - Need Some Comments

Autocrossed at Streets of Willowspring last weekend with the Los Angeles BMWCCA. Ambient temperature was >100F both days. Car never overheated. Car flawless on the track and all the way home. Parked the car in the garage for a week.

Today, took the car to the carwash. At this point car was still normal. There was nothing unusual that I could make out as I watched the car go through the wash. After carwash (those conveyored hand wash places), SES light came on after two blocks away from carwash. Car stuttered a bit while idling, but return to driving normal after restarting the car.

Also, a couple weeks before going to the track, I'd installed the M3 fuel pump baffle to reduce likelyhood of fuel starvation. The car had driven fine between then and track day.

After getting home I did a scan with Peake Scan Tool and this is what I got:

28AE = Torque limit
2774 = Engine cut off time
27CC = DMTL: leakage
2dc6 = Fuel tank level, plausibility
2882 = Mixture preparation bank 1

I could only find info on code 2882, which many think it is either a crack intake boot pipe or a failing DISA valve. There is almost no info on the other codes. Anyone know what is causing the other codes?
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:13 AM   #2
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There's got to be at one BMW tech here famailar with some of these codes.
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:23 AM   #3
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Looking up the codes for you now.. give me a sec to see what i can find out.,..

Hmm, my mech didnt know about most off them, except that the fuel plausibility could be a fault lever sensor, DMTL , check ur fuel filler cap

short explanation: DMTL is a diagnosis pump that will pressurize the fuel tank to check for leaks. It could be faulty, or it could be a loose gas gap

and the torque limit seems to be an internal error in the DME. But should reset with a code reset So as the guy below me says: clear codes. then check if any comes back!

Last edited by SweetBMW; 08-23-2010 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:29 AM   #4
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Hi -

The first thing I'd do is clear (erase) the codes, drive normally, and see what returns. This will eliminate confusion between what codes might be current and what might be historical.

Once you've gather that info, start your plan of attack.

Best of luck - and thanks for using our tool!

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Old 08-24-2010, 12:16 AM   #5
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Thanks for chiming in.
Got a chance to reset the codes and drove the car around a bit. So far everything is normal again. Still makes me nervous whether this is a first sign of something failing. Well, one more things to keep an eye on.
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