Replacing ABS Pump

Hi guys:

I was curious to ask something regading my ABS pump on my 2000 328Ci with DSC. The tech told me that its the ABS controller (black box connected to the pump) that normally goes bad and can be replaced by itself without changing the entire unit. Is this true? A used parts shop told me i would have to replace both the pump and controller. Another place told me i could replace just the controller. What is the truth in reality? I understand that the vehicle would have to be reprogrammed if i change the controller, which if needed can be done since my mechanic has the electronic equipment to do so. For example, if i get a good, known working unit, can i just remove the controller and install it to my ABS pump?

By the way, i jotted down all the part information off of the pump and controller to source a compatible unit.

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Yes you can change just the controller, and no reprogramming is even necessary. Now the dealer and most junk yards will force you to buy the entire pump unit to get the controller, so you will probably end up with an extra pump.

Also, if you want you can try module masters. You take off the controller and send it to them and they repair it and send it back. I sent them my ASC controller but they weren't able to fix it so they refunded me. But if they are able to fix your current controller it may be cheaper and they might have a lifetime warranty (if not lifetime at least a couple years, better than you would get from a junkyard.)

Originally Posted by thefrog1394

Yes you can change just the controller, and no reprogramming is even necessary. Now the dealer and most junk yards will force you to buy the entire pump unit to get the controller, so you will probably end up with an extra pump.

Also, if you want you can try module masters. You take off the controller and send it to them and they repair it and send it back. I sent them my ASC controller but they weren't able to fix it so they refunded me. But if they are able to fix your current controller it may be cheaper and they might have a lifetime warranty (if not lifetime at least a couple years, better than you would get from a junkyard.)

Hi there

Thanks for your reply. I verified my controller with Module Masters and it is unrepairable. I even called them and gave them the part numbers of the controller unit/ABS pump and they said it was one of the unrepairable models. I am checking with a reputable used parts shop that will sell me a used and properly working unit with 3 months warranty. So, indeed i would rather pickup that unit and just remove the controller and install it onto my ABS pump, which i assume should be working perfectly. My car only has 63,000 miles on it and my tech told me that 99% of the time its the controller that goes bad when that annoying yellow triangle lights up on the dash. I thought the vehicle had to be reprogrammed when changing this electrical component? To a few techs i have spoken with they have said that, but if its not necessary, then its a pretty simple thing to do.

If you haven't had the codes read either an independent mechanic who can read the DSC unit codes or by a dealer definitely do that first. It could very easily be one of the wheel speed sensors which is much cheaper to replace. This is not a system to throw parts at, its just too expensive. The code will tell you exactly what is wrong.

If your speedometer is still working I would guess its not the controller.

Originally Posted by thefrog1394

If you haven't had the codes read either an independent mechanic who can read the DSC unit codes or by a dealer definitely do that first. It could very easily be one of the wheel speed sensors which is much cheaper to replace. This is not a system to throw parts at, its just too expensive. The code will tell you exactly what is wrong.

If your speedometer is still working I would guess its not the controller.

Well, you know i am considering rechecking the ABS sensors on all 4 sides. Now, what really confuses me is that checking the realoemparts website, entering the last 7 of my cars VIN, the ABS sensors it says are used on my vehicle are the part numbers for the non DSC application (the front ones as the rears are the same for both DSC and non DSC) My car has the DSC button and the ABS pump and controller have the DSC stamped on them. I am very confused. Any input will be appreciated to ease my aching headache regarding this situation and the annoying triangular yellowish nasty light that comes on when it pleases.

The speedometer is working well and i have noticed when i start up the car to warm up the engine (as its stored in a garage) i sometimes see that the light comes on when its warm, but not always the case. It will turn on as well when the temperature is not overly warm. I am also considering having it scanned by another tech and see what he tells me and then work from there. I have been trying to get some information to see if i could resolve this without having to shell out more cash on another diagnosis, but from the looks of it, i am gong to have to do so.

The information on the ABS Pump is as follows
34.51.6.750.536
DSC
10.0204.0240.4

On the ABS controller it says:
ATE controller
DSC3-ES
0FU9L01A82*
10.0941-08053 3X6846

Last 7 of VIN are: JN93863
Production date: 12/99

If the controller says DSC on it then you have DSC. Not sure how that effects the speed sensors since I have ASC personally, but if there are clearly specific sensors for the DSC application and specific ones for ASC then realOEM is probably just wrong.

On the issue of DIYing reading codes: I can't speak personally to carsoft, as I have never used it. But if I were you I would just go the INPA route if you have the computer ability to figure it out (and don't mind the dubious legality). I went that route and its great, I can access diagnostic codes from every part of the system. Carsoft I know has trouble with certain modules (was it ASC/DSC or the airbag that it can't do? Certain versions can do certain things, etc).

Quick explanation of INPA. I was going to write a DIY on this but never got around to it, post up if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer. If you have the round diagnostic connector under your hood, connecting with INPA is pretty straightforward, you don't even need to modify any cables. Since you have a 99 you should still have the round connector, it is in the "drug bin compartment" on the passenger side. You need a USB VAG COM KKl interface off ebay (i.e. this). And then you need an adaptor from the standard OBDII computer plug to the round plug, i.e. this. That adapter there is the piece that allows us to use the VAG-COM without modification, the correct pins are wired together.

To actually install the INPA software and get it to work, you first install the drivers for the VAG-COM interface. Use the correct driver for your operating system from here. You have to set some options on the serial port in device manager. (right click my computer, properties, hardware tab, device manager, find the newly added COM port under serial ports I think?, right click, properties). You need to I think set the latency timer from 16 to 2. Not 100% sure on this, I will check next time I reboot into windows. Also, you must change the USB com port to com1. You will probably already have a com1 port associated with a physical serial port on your computer. Change this com port to something like com3, and then change the adaptor you just added to com1.

Then you need to adjust EDIABAS settings (the way INPA communicates with the car). In C:\EDIABAS\bin edit ediabas.ini (note the path to the EDIABAS folder may be different, i.e. it might be in some other subfolder. Wherever you installed it.). The following line should be present and not commented out (; before a line means its commented out, meaning it isnt even read by the computer).

Interface=STD:OBD

And then INPA should work

This sounds really confusing, its not as bad as it sounds, especially since I am just going by memory. I pieced together how to do this from threads on bimmerforums and the like. If you end up going this route let me know if you need help in certain areas and I am happy to give it, as I will probably end up turning this into a DIY post at some point so I don't mind writing out steps.

Originally Posted by thefrog1394

If the controller says DSC on it then you have DSC. Not sure how that effects the speed sensors since I have ASC personally, but if there are clearly specific sensors for the DSC application and specific ones for ASC then realOEM is probably just wrong.

On the issue of DIYing reading codes: I can't speak personally to carsoft, as I have never used it. But if I were you I would just go the INPA route if you have the computer ability to figure it out (and don't mind the dubious legality). I went that route and its great, I can access diagnostic codes from every part of the system. Carsoft I know has trouble with certain modules (was it ASC/DSC or the airbag that it can't do? Certain versions can do certain things, etc).

Quick explanation of INPA. I was going to write a DIY on this but never got around to it, post up if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer. If you have the round diagnostic connector under your hood, connecting with INPA is pretty straightforward, you don't even need to modify any cables. Since you have a 99 you should still have the round connector, it is in the "drug bin compartment" on the passenger side. You need a USB VAG COM KKl interface off ebay (i.e. this). And then you need an adaptor from the standard OBDII computer plug to the round plug, i.e. this. That adapter there is the piece that allows us to use the VAG-COM without modification, the correct pins are wired together.

To actually install the INPA software and get it to work, you first install the drivers for the VAG-COM interface. Use the correct driver for your operating system from here. You have to set some options on the serial port in device manager. (right click my computer, properties, hardware tab, device manager, find the newly added COM port under serial ports I think?, right click, properties). You need to I think set the latency timer from 16 to 2. Not 100% sure on this, I will check next time I reboot into windows. Also, you must change the USB com port to com1. You will probably already have a com1 port associated with a physical serial port on your computer. Change this com port to something like com3, and then change the adaptor you just added to com1.

Then you need to adjust EDIABAS settings (the way INPA communicates with the car). In C:\EDIABAS\bin edit ediabas.ini (note the path to the EDIABAS folder may be different, i.e. it might be in some other subfolder. Wherever you installed it.). The following line should be present and not commented out (; before a line means its commented out, meaning it isnt even read by the computer).


And then INPA should work

This sounds really confusing, its not as bad as it sounds, especially since I am just going by memory. I pieced together how to do this from threads on bimmerforums and the like. If you end up going this route let me know if you need help in certain areas and I am happy to give it, as I will probably end up turning this into a DIY post at some point so I don't mind writing out steps.

Thanks for the information. Sounds really interesting. My 00 328CI has the round plug in the passengers side of the engine bay. I will let you know on my findings.

thefrog1394.

Doing some research i came across something interesting regarding the Vagcom KKl interface. I contacted a very knowledgeable individual who mentioned this regarding the Vagcom:

"When purchasing your Vagcom KKL interface, try and get one based on Ft232R rather than the FT232B chip as the R chip can have signals inverted via programming whereas as the B chip will need to be modified by physically solderinng connections. This is a sensible place to start as it establishes the necessary baseline to allow you to graduate to NCS, DIS and SSS as you become more proficient."

What should i do with this?

Let me know