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Old 07-11-2009, 03:53 AM   #1
Connections
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Any one changed a PVC valve on your e46?

So I took my car to BMW for diagnosis a few days ago, as I had this problem with the car idling rough when the engine was cold then stopping when it was warm its not a major issue but it was annoying originally I suspected the vannos seals, I even bought new vannos seals from the USA and was going to install them lol.

Apparently according to BMW its deffiantly not this which is causing the problem yet its the "PVC valve" which is partially blocked.

I rang up my e46 BMW specialist they quoted me $650-700 to replace this part including labor, did not really bother asking BMW as i know it would be like $2000+ quote.

My question is, Is this job really hard to do?? I can source the part OEM from the USA for like $60-70, I also have read you need to change the hoses too..

Done the e46 thermostat on the car and that was a easy job...

Only real DIY I could find was this guys -

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=323335

Any input, thank you.
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Old 07-11-2009, 04:18 AM   #2
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How hard would you rate taking the intake manifold off?
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Old 07-11-2009, 10:24 PM   #3
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The job is not hard at all. Take it slow and take regards to the following tips I give you:

- When working on removing the intake boots, there is a small intake elbow that extends to the very front of your PVC/ICV. Be careful not to bend these at all as they might already be broken and brittle.

- Observe the intake boots carefully, especially around the bends and observe for cracks or brittleness. If damage or brittleness is apparent, replace immediately as these can cause vacuum leaks.

- When you remove the DISA Adjuster Unit, ensure that is thoroughly clean. A proper, working DISA Adjuster Unit will have a flap that does not move freely. Only with a fair bit of pressure will the flap move, but quickly followed by a retraction to its original position.

- Both the DISA Adjuster Unit and the Idle Control Valve should be cleaned thoroughly once taken out. Use a cleaner that does not leave any residue and you will be fine.

- Your best bet is to clean both parts mentioned above as thoroughly as possible. If idling does not improve, then proceed to replace. But again, before you replace check the rest of these parts to ensure they are in fine working order first:
1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition coils
3. Crankcase ventilation valve
4. Intake boots
5. VANOS seals
6. pre-cat and post-cat Oxygen sensors
7. Adjuster Unit (DISA)
8. Idle Control Valve (what BMW call PVC)
These are very common culprits for rough idling. Trust me, I've been through this already and I've helped fixed a fair number of cars with similar symptoms.

Talking about symptoms: Do you notice power loss? Can you possibly describe the symptoms a little more? Do you have a CEL appearing? What codes are showing up?
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:46 AM   #4
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I don't know man I took it to BMW and got a diagnosis they read the codes for me and they diagnosed it.

The things that need fixing are

Oil sensor - I know that was stuffed, but its a very easy fix and I can source a new one for 60 USD =)

and it says partially blocked PVC valve..
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Old 07-12-2009, 03:11 AM   #5
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Not going to tread on toes here but the PVC or Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is not to control idle.

Its to vent the crankcase from gases that are able to leak past the piston and cylinder. Mine was made evident due to high pitched whistle after approximately 30 minutes of driving, Crack the oil filler cap and whistle disappears.

For your 320i, I believe the P/N for the valve is 11617501566. Tischer in US have them for about $46.10 US. $650-700 is a rip job. Part from BMW in Aus would be about $100 - $140 and if they are charging $100 an hour labor then they just quoted you 5 hours labor... Whats he doing removing the engine ?

You have to remove the Cabin Micro filter to get to it in the 4 cylinders, not sure about the 6's. Was the first repair I did to my car. Took me about 45 minutes.
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Old 07-12-2009, 03:31 AM   #6
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^Hmmm I definitely got names mixed up. If BMW don't call the ICV, the ICV, what else do they call it?
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Old 07-12-2009, 03:44 AM   #7
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Untštiges Steuerventil ?
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Old 07-12-2009, 04:11 AM   #8
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Oh **** my mistake its the "PCV Valve"

Diagnosis report says,

Rough Idle PCV valve partly blocked which pressurizing engine.

This is the part which I need its called the PCV valve



PVC valve is this and its not what needs to be changed



sorry for the error
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Old 07-12-2009, 05:59 AM   #9
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Ive never heard of the PVC valve, Ive always known it as the PCV or Crankcase Vent Valve. I was just making a joke when i said PVC valve lol. Its your PCV dude and what I wrote is what you need to replace. Ill grab a picture off ETK.
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:26 AM   #10
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^ I've heard of Crankcase Ventilation Valve CVV or CCV. But never PCV. I'm so sure someone at BMW Canterbury referred the ICV to as a PCV.

By the way Jamie, how much are you getting the replacement PCV for and where from?
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Old 07-18-2009, 12:57 AM   #11
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Took me 20 min to change it, bit tricky fingerwork involved though.Got it from Imparts.
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:19 AM   #12
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not a overly easy thing to change but you can do it
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Old 07-19-2009, 06:15 AM   #13
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Will give this a shot installing then, if too hard will take it to the BMW mech.

Any advice on changing this part CAPTSPARROW.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:48 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Connections View Post
Will give this a shot installing then, if too hard will take it to the BMW mech.

Any advice on changing this part CAPTSPARROW.
There is no possible way to change the CCV(PCV) valve on a six cylinder M54 in 20 minutes. That's why your quote was what it was.

Not an overly hard DIY but a long and painfully annoying DIY.

Edit: not paying attention to the date.
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Old 10-03-2009, 06:40 PM   #15
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hmmm this sounds like something i might need.....
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:03 AM   #16
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I did this job without removing the manifold, but it was pain in the ass working ander the manifold, sence no space, and you cant see every thing very will. I thing the easest way is to remove the intake manifold, and change the gaskit. That will give you chance to see if there is any other crap things.
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Old 10-31-2009, 05:51 AM   #17
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pcv is used to vent crankcase gasses back through the intake so as not to pressurise the engine.

icv/iac/iscv idle control valve/idle air valve/idle speed control valve is used on cold start and sudden throttle closure.
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Old 10-31-2009, 04:28 PM   #18
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Hey did this DIY like 1-2 months ago....

I took the car to bmw for diagnosis which said the PCV which is the oil/ fuel separator was blocked and the whole unit needed to be changed along with all the hoses too...but really it was just a hose on the unit which was worn away which was a real pain the ass because it left me changing the - whole unit and all the hoses...

Oh well, and this job was a ***** took me and my dad like 10 hours haha, but yeh guess it would take a mechanic like 4 hours probly...

Havn't really had any more early start issues...Hopefully it fixes the problem this is the shittest thing about e46's but all the dam hoses that waste away after only 8 years...
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Old 10-31-2009, 06:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I took the car to bmw for diagnosis which said the PCV which is the oil/ fuel separator..
oil/air separator, not oil/fuel.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:12 PM   #20
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copy and paste this into the search section on the front page and it will show you everything you need to do, i done mine a few weeks ago, didnt take that long at all, abit fiddly but worth it!
CCV, DISA, ICV, Oil Separator. STEP BY STEP - PICTURES
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