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Old 07-03-2009, 03:28 PM   #1
packrat555
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replaced crankshaft sensor now DME needs to be reprogrammed???

This morning the car started rough and appeared to be in Limp mode. Check engine light was P0339 which indicates crankshaft sensor intermittent.

Oddly the DSC triangle light is on together with the BRAKE light and the DSC button has no effect.

I replaced the crankshaft sensor (Siemens VDO EM part) and cleared the code but the problem is still there and the P0339 code keeps coming back.

There are a couple older post on this subject and it seems the DME needed to be reprogrammed by the dealer. When I spoke with the service writer at the dealer he indicated that upon replacing some sensors reprogramming the DMW was required though is wasn't totally convincing and perhaps just agreeing with me.

Anyone have a similar experience regarding reprogramming the DME?
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:49 PM   #2
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AFAIK you don't need any kind of ECU reprogramming for the sensors. Should be plug and play. Have you checked for shorted wirings? Corroded plugs?
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:55 AM   #3
gfactor
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I went through the same exact process when mine went out. I ended up taking it to a Bosch authorized BMW repair shop and had the DME reset for about $43. That did the trick.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:30 AM   #4
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Unhook your negative battery cable for about 30 minutes and see if that does anything. Make sure your connections are all good too.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:10 AM   #5
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what you probably need is your DME adaptations cleared. Try unhooking your battery for a while as suggested above first. This may clear them so the new sensor can be learned.
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Cheat Sheet:

GT1/ISIS/MoDiC = Factory authorized diagnostic system used by BMW dealerships across the world.

NCS Expert = BMW Factory R&D programming tool available on the internet (not intended for the public and not available to the dealership network)

OEM = Genuine BMW part only available from a franchised BMW dealership.

DME = Engine Management Computer
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:00 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Len013091 View Post
Unhook your negative battery cable for about 30 minutes and see if that does anything. Make sure your connections are all good too.
Always disconnect the positive cable first.
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:20 PM   #7
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Always disconnect the positive cable first.
Um, that's never a good idea as the body is grounded via the negative cable. If you lay the positive cable down anywhere on the car, you run the risk of welding the terminal to the car.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:11 PM   #8
packrat555
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disconnecting the battery did not work. It reset the radio and the mpg display but the check engine light is still on and the car starts and idles rough.

From other post I am convinced a proper reset will fix the car and expect a trip to the dealer and $120 will be all that is needed.

Do you think the Peake R5/FCX-III will do the same job? I'd rather spend a little more on it and have something to show for my money.

O know there are things like turning off the DRL that only the dealer and their computer can do and wonder if this is one of them too.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:26 PM   #9
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Is (Siemens VDO EM part) an OEM part? If not, some non-OEM CPS's have been known to be defective right out of the box. Good luck.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:35 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Len013091 View Post
Um, that's never a good idea as the body is grounded via the negative cable. If you lay the positive cable down anywhere on the car, you run the risk of welding the terminal to the car.

If you disconnect the positive cable from the battery, there won't be any power anywhere.

Edit: Apparently the recommended procedure now is to remove the negative cable first, because people keep making sparks and blowing themselves up.

I've been doing it wrong for 30+ years.

Last edited by Lair; 07-05-2009 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:07 PM   #11
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i've just had a crankshaft sensor replaced on my car...thh dealer told me they had to reprogram the DME (which also shows up on my invoice)...so i think you should probably just bring it to the dealer and have them do that for your new sensor to work properly

all the best, L
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:10 PM   #12
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Do you think the Peake R5/FCX-III will do the same job? I'd rather spend a little more on it and have something to show for my money.
Before I explain the uses and applications of the Peake tools we use, recommend, and carry, please note that I am not a mechanic. I have no real experience with the type of repairs you may need to go through, so I may be limited in what I can help with from a mechanical aspect.

That out of the way, it is important to understand the types of fault codes you can read on your BMW. All cars (all makes and models) built after '96 maintain a generic, government mandated set of emissions related codes called OBDII. The primary purpose for these codes is to let state inspection facilities know if there is a problem with the car. They are sometimes used by domestic manufacturers for diagnostic purposes as well. Since 1987, all BMWs have maintained a chassis-specific diagnostic code system. This is completely separate from the OBDII protocols. Because BMWs must maintain the generic system as well, when a fault is detected, the diagnostic module stores the factory-programmed code and generates the closest generic OBDII code as well. Sometimes the two are very similar, most often they are not. It is also quite possible that the OBDII code is not at all related to the actual problem the factory code is reporting. Moreso, there may be a complete lack of a near-equivalent generic code, resulting in an 'unknown code' situation.

The code readers used by Autozone only read the generic codes. They may tell you they read the "Manufacturer's Specific Codes", but these are simply an extended range of generic codes set aside for use by vehicle manufacturers who use OBDII for diagnostics. BMW does not (though you may find examples of these codes overlapping...).

Peake tools ONLY read the BMW codes, not OBDII.

So, with that basic introduction to fault codes, there are several possibilities, including but not limited to:

1. The generic code you are reading with the OBDII tool at Autozone has nothing to do with a crankshaft sensor, and the problem still exists.
2. The sensor you purchased is faulty.
3. The sensor was not installed properly.
4. There is a larger problem that is only being reported as that sensor by the OBDII tool.

Also, please realize that just because a particular part is named in the code definition - whether BMW specific or generic - does NOT automatically mean that part is bad. Sensors detect and report data to the vehicle's computer. When the data is odd, or missing, the car will generate a fault code. It is entirely possible that the sensor is working properly, but the system it is monitoring actually has a problem. This is very common with O2 sensors - people replace them when they see a code that mentions that part, but the problem and fault continues to present itself.

So, whether or not the Peake tool will give you the answer to this particular mystery is something I cannot predict. I can tell you that the Peake tools will provide you with the most accurate fault codes for your car.

Quote:
O know there are things like turning off the DRL that only the dealer and their computer can do and wonder if this is one of them too.
Peake tools are read-only. They do not offer any form of bi-directional communication or programming capabilities.

Please have a look at the article linked in my signature - click the line that says "Is your check engine light on?" There is more information there.

We offer Peake tools well below retail. The tool includes a code and instruction manual, as well as a storage case. They are in stock and ship free to domestic addresses.

Please let me know if you have any further questions - ken@bimmertools.com

Good luck,

Ken
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:21 PM   #13
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similar thing happened 2 me, read here. not what i expected tho.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ght=dsc+button
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:45 PM   #14
packrat555
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took it to BMW dealer in Fort Worth. Not sure they actually reloaded or programmed anything, seemed more like just clearing the codes. They said there were lots of old codes to be cleared and came back and said:

DSC / Brake light was the Steering Angle Sensor $190 parts $379 labor = declined
Check engine light was Secondary Air Valve and Hose $240 parts $205 labor = declined

All I paid was $60 for the diagnostic and clearing the faults and $60 to turn off the DRL. The car runs fine, no lights on. If the above mentioned problems are still present I would have expected the light to be back on by now but I have been running errands all afternoon with no problems experienced. I am beginning to wonder if the original crankshaft sensor was bad or not. Seems like maybe a system glitch resulting in numerous false codes that only needed to be reset.

I also wonder if the Peake device would have seen the old codes and cleared all the faults.
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:15 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by packrat555 View Post

I also wonder if the Peake device would have seen the old codes and cleared all the faults.
Quite possible. As mentioned, the generic code may have been misleading, and other historical codes (which the Peake tool definitely reads) may have simply been not represented by OBDII codes.

Glad to see it's worked out for now.

Good luck!

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Old 08-24-2010, 05:19 PM   #16
the_curry_man
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i got a new crankshaft sensor....cuz my old one had broken in half....i replaced it...then started the car....it still is in safe/limp mode with the dsc, brake, and service engine light on....i didnt have the chance to clear the codes before i drove it and when i go to autozone and reset it, it does nothing....and the code is saying the "circuit intermitent" does that mean that the sensor is broken cuz i just bought one! should i go to the dealer and reset the dme?
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:20 AM   #17
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Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I thought it prudent to tell everyone that has this problem. I had this very same issue. SES light (P0335 on generic OBDII), DSC, and amber BRAKE light were all tripped at the same time and the car was in limp. I replaced the CKP sensor and both camshaft sensors to be safe. Drove for 50 miles, no adaptions cleared, unhooked the battery for 30mins, adaptions remained.

Bottom line, you have to get the adaption cleared by resetting the DME after some new sensors are replaced, mine did not clear on their own.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:38 AM   #18
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Get a BMW scanner cable and software instead of useless things like Peake.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:14 AM   #19
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Get a BMW scanner cable and software instead of useless things like Peake.
Agreed
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