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Old 01-04-2009, 05:39 PM   #1
donkiman
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pads rusted to rotors?

Didn't drive me car for nearly 2 weeks. It was sitting in an un-heated garage. The car turned on fine but I cant back up or drive forward. The car is stuck as if the E-brake were on, but its not. I looked at the rotors and they are very rusted. I fear that the rotors are rusted to the pads. How should I go about fixing this? WD40/flathead for prying?

I have AAA, but having my car towed is the last resort.

thanks
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:54 PM   #2
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i dont know how good it is for the brakes but PB Blaster is awesome at getting rusted bolts and such unstuck, id wait for someone else to chime in about that idea though
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:werd: Adhesive-ionized propulsion FTW
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:03 PM   #3
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Manual or Auto?

If it's a manual, your e-brake may be suck some how(I assume you'd have parked the car with it on). I'd say just try and drive the car, you should be able to break it free.
If it's an auto, i doubt the brakes could be stuck unless you set the e-brake. You may be screwed.

PB blaster? Why not! what's the worst that could happen Just don't try and stop fast afterward.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:16 PM   #4
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its a manual. and it was parked with the e-brake on. I have made the mistake of backing out of the garage with the e-brake on 1 time before and it did not have this much resistance.

What is PB Blaster? is it like WD40?
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:18 PM   #5
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Same thing happened to me. The e-brake got stuck. I just rocked the car back and forth and it freed itself. I try not to engage the e-brake for long periods of time as it tends to get stuck.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:19 PM   #6
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Pads won't be rusted stuck, your pads would have to be pressed on for them to be against the rotors while parked. Ebrake shoes are inside the rear rotors hub. If anything it'd be your ebrake. Put in neutral and rock it loose if you are that afraid. But sounds like it's an automatic and the gear selector sensor isn't catching.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #7
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hmm using oil on brakes is not a good idea! You can go from the inner side and tap the caliper with a hammer it should unseize it. Your problem is ebrake is stuck together. You could also just rock it back and forth from 1st to reverse until it releases.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:47 PM   #8
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e-brake is stuck, give it some power to get out of its sticky situation.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:56 PM   #9
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Pads won't be rusted stuck, your pads would have to be pressed on for them to be against the rotors while parked. Ebrake shoes are inside the rear rotors hub. If anything it'd be your ebrake. Put in neutral and rock it loose if you are that afraid. But sounds like it's an automatic and the gear selector sensor isn't catching.
It's manual.
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:03 PM   #10
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Manual or Auto?

If it's a manual, your e-brake may be suck some how(I assume you'd have parked the car with it on). I'd say just try and drive the car, you should be able to break it free.
If it's an auto, i doubt the brakes could be stuck unless you set the e-brake. You may be screwed.

PB blaster? Why not! what's the worst that could happen Just don't try and stop fast afterward.

So if the E-brake is stuck, when it brakes free will it be fine? Or will it require a recalibration?
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:04 PM   #11
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It's manual.
Then rock it in neutral with ebrake off. If the back is locked you'll see it lift/dip. I'd also pull the ebrake on/off a few times and also push the brakes while engine running.
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:20 PM   #12
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PB Blaster is like mega god in a can, it pretty much melts/dissolves rust and unsticks stuck bolts.....but i agree with everyone else just pull and release the ebrake a couple times, and give it some juice....my pads stick to the rotors sometimes after ive washed the car a little bit on the go pedal and it unsticks.
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:werd: Adhesive-ionized propulsion FTW
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:43 PM   #13
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how cold did it get? never leave your ebrake on for long periods of undriving time in the cold, the pads freeze to the rotor.............if you dont wana chance pad damage, heat the rotors up slightly with one if those plumbing propane torches, not too much tho, youll warp them, or , put a heater in there for while.................rust doesnt do this =)
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:50 PM   #14
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how cold did it get? never leave your ebrake on for long periods of undriving time in the cold, the pads freeze to the rotor.............if you dont wana chance pad damage, heat the rotors up slightly with one if those plumbing propane torches, not too much tho, youll warp them, or , put a heater in there for while.................rust doesnt do this =)
The ebrake works by pressing brake shoes inside the rear hub out. It does not work by clamping the caliper pads to the rotor.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:35 PM   #15
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I had same problem. Here is my story:

1. Drove car to airport in heavy rain on Dec 25 and temp was about +6oC

2. I always use E-Brake since, I already got a speech from mech that when not used, it causes problems (don't remember if it was rusted brake line???)

3. One weeks later (Jan 1st), I come back from trip, and temp was at -20oC, and car was not touched for 1 full week, and parked in outside parking lot.

4. When, I arrived to car, first think I did was clean snow and start motor

5. Since I had a new battery, no problem with start, but engine was really idling rough, I was afraid it was going to stall. I revved it a few times to help, but after 5 minutes no luck

6. At this point, I'm ready to drive car, and my only way out was in reverse. Car was parked in front of me.

7. Car was not moving, and back starting to lift. I also starting to notice a burning smell

8. I waited a few more minutes to think my options, I analyse free space in front of car, and I only had 3 inches

9. Tried reverse again, and still no luck, and back of car was lifting

10. At this point, I had no clue how I was going to drive wife + 3 kids home, not much support on Jan 1st, 600pm.

11. I decided to try anything, played with brake pedal a few times, and also played with e-brake a few times, and still no luck with reverse

12. I take a chance and put car in 1st gear, and was very careful and was able to hear a click and fortunately it moved only 2 inches

13. Put her back in reverse and care started to roll

14. Car was still rough

15. After 15min on highway, rough idle was gone and car started to feel normal again....

What an experience this was....

Good luck!
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
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The ebrake works by pressing brake shoes inside the rear hub out. It does not work by clamping the caliper pads to the rotor.
whaaaaaaaaaat? theres mini brake shoes inside the hub? if so, then they are the ones frozen, same concept
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:58 PM   #17
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whaaaaaaaaaat? theres mini brake shoes inside the hub? if so, then they are the ones frozen, same concept
Yes there is.

http://bmwfans.info/original/E46/Lim...4/ill-34_0768/

I don't think it is frozen but rusted stuck because I live in a tropical climate and the same thing happens to me if I leave the parking brake engaged for more than a week.
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:06 PM   #18
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i swear, the little things i learn about these cars never seems to end...............thats crazy, why didnt they just use the reg pads ?
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:08 PM   #19
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two weeks.. no way your pads are stuck to your rotors..it has to be something else... the only way thats possible is if your pads had continuous contact to the rotors.. and once its in P or N and you apply the e brake your pads are no longer in use the e brake is separate system inside your rear hubs.. if anythings stuck its your e-brake...just release your e-brake and give it some gas it'll come undone..
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
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i swear, the little things i learn about these cars never seems to end...............thats crazy, why didnt they just use the reg pads ?
because if you ever take apart ur brakes you'll see why..and if they did that would kind of defeat the idea if a EMERGENCY BRAKE dont you think??
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