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1M views 3K replies 571 participants last post by  se93 
#1 ·
I just received my BMW Scanner 1.4 (PA Soft) and love it! It installed easily and the scanner had no issues connecting and reading codes. I was also able to code the car to automatically roll the windows up by pressing and holding the lock button. Everything else was set the way I wanted, though I still might play around with the various features I can change.

I was disappointed that there is no manual ANYWHERE to explain how to use all the functions. This doesn't seem like something you want to play around with by trial and error. But it IS cool looking into the system to see what is going on.

I did the scan function when I hooked it up. It took a few minutes to go through and test every system and to identify what I had on the car, what wasn't on the car, what had a code and what didn't. Up til now I was reliant on AutoZone to read a code when I had issues. The only codes that were ever read were one for the CPS and another for the thermostat. Both were replaced and the engine light has never come back on. So I was a little puzzled when I saw all the codes below come up. The engine was cold. (Been turned off for at least 3 hours.) These codes came out of the log it created.

DME -> Shadow-memory:
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative

SRS -> 50/A0 - Power supply, undervoltage

LCM -> Shadow-memory:
34/01 - Brake light, left
3E/01 - Rear fog light faulty
3F/01 - Turn indicator, rear left
40/01 - Turn indicator, rear right
46/01 - Sidelight 3, rear left

ZKE -> Shadow-memory:
8F/21 - Alarm memory: Panic modus was activated

BMBT -> 01/01 - Watchdog reset

XENL -> 2A/01 - Terminal 15 < 7,5 Volt

XENR -> 2A/01 - Terminal 15 < 7,5 Volt

Okay... I know that the alarm code came from either the dealer activating it for me after I installed the OEM system (Before I bought the scanner!) or from me activating the panic feature to test it when I picked it up. I figure the brake light faults were there either when I used to have issues with the ground before I fixed it or when I tested the new bulbs and lenses I installed a few weeks ago. I am assuming that the undervolt issues were caused when the battery died and I swapped in a new one. Anyway... I tried deleting all codes. They all went away except the ones below...

DME -> Shadow-memory:
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative

SRS -> Shadow-memory:
50/20 - Power supply, undervoltage

I am wondering if the DME codes were thrown because I did this when the engine was cold. I have no idea why the SRS code keeps coimg back. I know that some cars will throw codes just because or at least have a tendency to throw them easily and are nothing to worry about overall. But I do have a few questions...

The CEL doesn't come on to tell me I have thrown a code and the car runs great. But I am curious to learn more about.
1. What do these codes actually mean?
2. Is there a PDF manual somewhere to explain the full functionality of the scanner?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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#661 ·
I ordered mine on may 5th. I checked HK post optio for free shipping. Waited 2 1/2 weeks with no shipping confirmation. I sent an email enquiry and they replied that day saying they were just going to ship it. I'm guessing my order wasn't processed until I emailed. A few more weeks and I might have it.
 
#667 ·
I placed my order with Xcar360 a couple of weeks ago and of course they were out of stock. BTW, you need to email them to find that out, they ain't telling you that themselves. I emailed again, requesting my money back. They asked for a week to obtain the device. I said ok. Nothing from them a week later. I emailed again saying I'm opening the PayPal claim. They shipped the scanner the next day.

The moral of the story: if you place an order with them, you need to press on them until they ship it. Threats motivate them.

Good luck.
 
#673 ·
Yellow codes are the shadow codes which are not currently present in your system. Do not worry about them. Just take care of the red codes first.
Some yellow/shadow codes can be erased but some will be stay there as the fault was there at some point of time.
 
#669 ·
How do you check the emissions readiness with PA SOFT 1.4? I went to try to get an inspection twice and failed twice because the monitors weren't ready. I don't want to go back until I know for sure. I have just started using the software and it is very useful for changing options and diagnosis (and turning off...) problems.
 
#680 ·
I too have BMW Scanner 1.4.0 from Xcar360. It came with 2008 version of software. Little sticker on the cable/module says not to use any software but the one that came on their mini CD.

I checked Official PA Soft website and they have 2011 version available. Does anyone know if it's OK to use it with Xcar360/Chinese module?
 
#681 ·
I too have BMW Scanner 1.4.0 from Xcar360. It came with 2008 version of software. Little sticker on the cable/module says not to use any software but the one that came on their mini CD.

I checked Official PA Soft website and they have 2011 version available. Does anyone know if it's OK to use it with Xcar360/Chinese module?
 
#688 ·
I'm so glad to read and hear about people whom have had so much fun with this obd reader. It's so easy to down load the drivers and the whole thing is just a piece of cake. It's a piece of **** is what it is. I can't get it to load the drivers no matter what I do. Windows xp mode ? That's what I've been trying to do. That and everything else I know. I guess I must be computer stupid because I've been trying to do this now for about 2 weeks. Using 4 different pc's and three techs along with myself. I'm sure some of you have no problem what so ever. I'm not having such luck and I'm done with it.
 
#690 ·
Hi guys,

New member here. I have owned my E46 compact for about 8 months now. I have been reading this thread about the BMW Scanner 1.4.0 and all the interesting things you do with it, so I went out and got one yesterday.

I've managed to work out how to code things like indicators flash on lock/unlock etc, all the basics.

However, I have noticed some odd. When I go to Car Ident menu, it displays my IKE odometer as 164,861, and my LCM odometer as 164,800.

My EGS menu displays 164,860.

My EWS menu displays 164,855 (which is the same reading displayed on my dashboard).

I cant figure out why I have four different odometer readings (all fairly close readings) in these menus, or how to fix it. There is no tamper dot. The car hasn't been mucked around with and is in immaculate condition. I purchased it from the lady who owned it since new.
 
#691 · (Edited)
I read somewhere that the LCM only updates every 100 km. Not sure why the EGS and EWS would be different.

I'm guessing this:

164861 km ago your car came to life and started keeping track of mileage. (kilometerage? lol)

The car traveled a km or a fraction of a km before the transmission or its control unit was installed / initialized.

Then it traveled another 5 km before the anti-theft EWS system was initialized/activated.

I'm not sure how the manufacturing process worked but this might explain it.

When you get to 164,900 your LCM will match.

BTW I just looked these up for anybody else who doesn't know:

LCM = Light Control Module
IKE = Instrument Cluster Electronics (German translation = Kluster?)
EGS = Transmission Control Unit (German is Getriebe-Steuergerät)
EWS = Electronic Immobilization System
 
#692 ·
Thanks Schlag96. You were right, my IKE and LCM updated when I hit 164,900km. Many thanks for your explanation, very interesting how it all works.

One other thing. I have cleared all the faults, but one keeps reappearing. Its under the ABS menu, and it always yellow (currently not present)- 5DF7 [24055] Vehicle power > 18 volt

Does anyone know what this is, and should I be worried?
 
#693 ·
Well I got a new set of cables from xcar360 via airmail. I guess paypal disputes are a more effective motivator than an email to customer service.

We'll see how it works when I get a chance to hook it up. Looking forward to having a clean instrument cluster for the first time since I bought her. Freakin airbag light. Or should I say Alfred Hitchcock light :rofl:
 
#698 ·
I have successfully re-coded my instrument cluster Service Interval. I change my oil every 10000 miles, so I set it this way. The way it comes from the factory is pretty useless to me since i do not wait until the car tells to change oil between 15K and 20K. I also set the value of liters of gas counted to "0". So now instead of counting 2450 liters of gas and showing 15K left to go before oil change or inspection my cluster shows 10000 and counts backwards actual miles and NOT liters of gas.
I think that's great because now I know exactly the number of miles before oil change and do not need to write it down anymore. After I changed these values I also reset EEPROM to get rid of the error that popped up after the change. No errors in cluster now.
 
#699 · (Edited)
This is step by step the way I changed Service Interval in Instrument Cluster:

1. Go to IKE module:
2. Choose "Coding Data"



3. go to "Recoding"



4. Change your Service Interval values to your liking. I change oil every 10K, so instead of 25000 km I entered 16100 km (=10000miles). I do not want the computer to count liters of gas to determine the interval, so I put "0" instead of 2450 liters.



5. After you do this you will get an error, something like "EEPROM checksum is invalid". I have no idea what this means, but I found a way to get rid of this error.

6. Go to "reprogramming" and hit "Recalculate EEPROM checksum". Rescan. No more error.




It worked for me. It looks like the computer is counting miles now and not liters. I hope!! After driving around 25 miles it reads 9975 before inspection. We'll see how accurate it will be after I drive more miles.

Good luck!


P.S Hmm, I tried to reset the interval and it would not allow me to now. I wonder if more miles need to be driven before I can do this. I'll try to reset with the key and see if I can do that.
 
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