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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-04-2008, 04:24 PM   #61
sillieidiot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_big_1 View Post
Yep! You are all getting my thoughts now.
A simple way of seeing it, without part numbers is this.

A pre 2003/2002 none memory, none power fold have a 6 way conector on the mirrors and an adjusting switch.

A pre 2003/2002 with power fold none memory have 12 way connector, module in the door and an adjust switch.

A pre 2003/2002 with memory and no power fold have 12 way connector, module in the door and an adjust switch.

A pre 2003/2002 with memory and power fold have 12 way connector, module in the door, fold module behind glovebox and an adjust switch.

A post 2003/2002 none memory, none power fold have a 2 x 3 way conectors (Ribbon)on the mirrors and an adjusting switch.

A post 2003/2002 with power fold none memory have 12 way connector, module in the door and an adjust switch.

A post 2003/2002 with memory and no power fold have 2 x 3 way connector, (Ribbon) module in the mirror motor and an adjust switch.

A post 2003/2002 with memory and power fold have 2x3 way connector (Ribbon), module in the mirror motor, and an adjust switch.


I think thats the way it is done.

Like I siad, if you have memory seats on a post 2003 like me, I think all that is needed is the correct mirrors with the memory module built in to the mirror motor, the correct purple back adjust switch. I think the car has to be codded one all the bits are fitted.
there are a lot of cars i've worked on that would not fall into one of those categories/conditions.
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:59 PM   #62
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Terry from TMK responded to my email questions and here is what he has to say
in bold print below;
Quote:
Sorry to bother you, but I'm currently attempting the same
> modification for my 2001 330i and was wondering when you ordered the
> power-folding mirrors and switch were they anything else you needed to
> order for the function to work?


You need a car that can support folding mirrors (see below), the folding
mirror housings, and the mirror control switch with the extra folding but-
ton. I got all of these parts at my local dealer. They had the button and
passenger-side mirror housing in stock and had to order the driver's side
mirror housing.



> Also did the mirrors "plug in and play"? Like your car, my BMW also
> has the Mirror/Seat Memory Function and I've heard rumors that on
> BMWs with Memory the DIY for the Power Folding Mirrors w/ Memory
> should be as simple as plug and play.
> If you can list any key steps that would be helpful I will be very grateful.


Yes. If the car has the seat/mirror memory option, it should just work.
The hardest part is getting the door apart.

I did a write-up some years ago. It can be found here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39558

Terry Kennedy http://www.tmk.com
terry@tmk.com New York, NY USA
I have not got a chance to check his link out yet, but I believe his BMW is a 2003 325xiT Wagon.

EDIT:
Here is the complete DIY written by Terry Kennedy on BFest.com way back in 9/2003
Quote:
E46 wagon folding mirrors (non-M3)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A number of people have asked me about this, so I figured I'd post some details. This isn't a full DIY as I didn't take pictures while the car was apart, and it isn't for the faint of heart anyway.

All that is needed are 3 parts available at your BMW dealer (left mirror assembly, right mirror assembly, and switch). No painting is needed - you re-use your old mirror housings.

Here is a PDF file http://www.tmk.com/transient/folding-mirrors.pdf of the ETK page for the mirrors. This will give you the part numbers for the left and right mirrors (item #2) for cars with and without "high gloss shadow line". You also need a replacement mirror control switch. On my car it was 61 31 6 901 383 which is the switch for folding mirrors and seat memory. Part number 61 31 8 373 732 is for folding mirrors without seat memory. The mirror housings list for about $250 each and the switch for about $50.

Before I started I made sure that I had a fuse in position 57 (folding mirrors).

You'll want to disconnect the battery, as the doors have airbags in them and you don't want any accidents. Roll down both the driver and passenger side front windows first.

These instructions are for cars with the HK option - some steps will likely be different for non-HK cars.

I would also suggest leaving one door untouched while you do the other one - you will run into a bunch of "how the heck does this go back together" situations, and having another door for comparison is very useful.

First, I removed the mirror glass (see the split mirror DIY for instructions). Once the glass was removed, 4 small tabs are visible near the corners of the housing. Gently releasing these tabs (they can easily break, particularly the one that is recessed more than the others) will let you remove the painted cover from the leading edge of the mirror housing. What you have left is the part you will replace.

You now have to pretty much gut the doors - remove the mirror switch by pulling up and disconnecting the cable (driver's side) or the blank trim piece (passenger's side) and 2 plastic caps on the underside of the armrest. Unscrew the 3 Torx screws exposed by this. Gently remove the wood or plastic trim, starting at the rear edge of the door and working toward the handle. Remove the Torx screws you have exposed (the one that is longer is the one closest to the handle).

Gently pop the door liner off the door frame. It is secured by a large number of round clips around the side and bottom edges of the door frame and a number of rectangular clips at the top edge of the door frame. Carefully lift it over the door locking pin at the rear. At this point it will still be attached via the handle linkage and a speaker wire. Carefully undo the clip at the rear of the handle and pivot out the linkage cable and white plastic piece.

The speaker wire is attached by a push-in clamp, and then connectors on the backs of the speakers. The woofer is easy - just pinch the clip to release. The midrange is the usual AMP captive-catch connector. I used my usual trick of pushing on the captive catch with a dental pick to depress it, and then pulling the connector halves apart. I haven't found a good way to remove the cable clamp from the back of the door liner other than by giving it a good yank.

At this point you can set the door liner aside. Take a look at the door frame and the general vicinity. If you see any thin felt rings, take them and put them back on the catch pins on the door liner.

You now have to remove a piece of plastic trim which runs from the bottom front edge of the door up to the top of the window frame. Pry out the two plastic pins on the leading edge of the door frame and work this trim piece loose. Take particular care near the door hinge - the trim is split behind the hinge so it can be removed, but it can be easily bent.

Continue working upward, loosening this trim. It will expand out to the grill of the HK tweeter and up into the window frame, where it contains the "anti-trapping" tape-switch (to prevent people from being caught in a closing window). You don't have to remove it completely (and it would be a pain to put it back on) - just release it enough to uncover the HK tweeter. You'll see a 2-pin white cable for the anti-trapping switch there. You should just be able to let this trim piece hang without needing to disconnect the cable.

At this point you need to get into the sound deadening foam glued to the door. This is fragile, gooey, and a general pain. The idea is to undo as little as possible. You'll see a bunch of wires coming out of the bottom of the HK tweeter. Two are for the tweeter; the rest are the mirror controls. These will duck under the sound deadening foam, loop around, and come back out at a lower level. They then run over the front of the foam to a control box near the front of the door, about 2/3 of the way down. That is the mirror control box. Once you have an idea of the scope of the work, carefully peel the foam back without ripping it to expose the mirror cable. The foam is held on with a sticky rubber compound (be careful not to get it on any other parts of the car). Once you have the foam peeled back, you should see the complete path of the mirror wiring harness. Undo the clip holding the mirror harness to the mirror control box and work the cable free. Parts of it will be covered with the rubber goop, and in two places there will be clamps holding it to the door frame. You can repeat the speaker clamp trick with this - your new mirrors come with new clamps pre-attached to the harness.

Now, look at the HK tweeter. You'll see it is held in by a screw at the top and slides onto another screw on the bottom. Remove the top screw and slide the tweeter off. You can just let it dangle - it isn't heavy enough to damage its cable. You will now see two more identical screws below the one you removed (they form a triangle). Support the mirror by reaching out through the open window and remove both screws. You can now work the mirror free. It will probably be stuck to the rubber window gasket, and there is a foam gasket below it. Work it free and gently feed the mirror wiring harness out the hold. Set the mirror aside and unpack your new mirror.

The new mirror also has a foam gasket dangling on the mirror harness. Feed the connector end of the new mirror's harness through the hole in the door and let the harness dangle inside. Position the new foam gasket inside the door frame cavity, taking care to align the holes in the gasket with the mounting holes in the door frame. This will take a couple attempts to get it right. Now, move the new mirror frame up to the door frame and get a feel for how it should attach. Once you have done a few test fittings and have a working plan, support the mirror with one hand while you look through the door frame holes from the inside. You should see the mirror mounting holes lining up with the door frame. Insert one of the 3 mirror mounting screws you removed and tighten loosely. The mirror mounting plate holes are not tapped, so you'll be cutting threads in the casting. When the mirror starts to snug down, stop and repeat with the other two screws. Take a look at the mirror from a number of angles to see how it sits on the rubber gasket at the top of the door as well as at the front of the door and the seam between the lower edge of the mirror bracket and the outside door trim. Wiggle it around to make it look like the other side. You may need to remove it and try again in extreme cases. Pay particular attention to the rubber weatherstripping above the mirror - it flares out near its lower end, but it is easy to bump this and misalign it. Once you have the mirror adjusted properly, tighten the screws all the way (you'll feel a definite increase in resistance once they're fully seated). Check the outside fit and finish one more time. If it is good, remove the top screw, re-attach the HK tweeter, and re-install the screw.

Now, work the mirror harness into the door foam using the same path as the old harness. Once you are sure you have the correct route, pop the clamps into the holes in the door frame and plug the connector into the control unit in the door frame.

At this point, you might want to temporarily install the new window switch on the driver's side and re-connect the battery to test out your new mirror. You can do this with only one side done. Make sure you have full function (normal tilt/pan, folding function, and reverse tilt if you're working on the passenger side).

You now have to make some repairs to the door foam to prevent rattles and leaks. You'll need 3M "Windo Weld" - the TIS calls for 1/4" which is impossible to find around here. I used the next size up (5/16"). This is the rubber goop that holds the foam to the frame. If your car has door/speaker rattles, you'll also want some silicone goop.

First, use the silicone goop (if needed) and put a dollop over the connectors that connect the HK tweeter and the window anti-trapping switch to the door harness (these are under the foam you'll be re-attaching next). Let dry. Take some short pieces of Windo Weld and put them on the door frame at the edges of the foam. Now press the foam down solidly to seat it.

While that is drying, look at your door liner. You'll see that the woofer is held in by 3 Philips screws and the midrange by a threaded collar. Make sure all screws are tight on the woofer and the collar is tight on the midrange. Tighten as necessary. Also, look at the back of the midrange. You'll see a clip that holds the connectors for this speaker. In my car, this is where the HK rattles come from. Save this thought for later.

Now, work the window anti-trapping switch / HK tweeter grill piece back into position. It needs to pop into place around the door frame near the HK tweeter. Make sure you have the anti-trapping switch seated properly as well - you don't want the window to roll up and go "crunch", or worse, "crack". Again, comparing with the other side is very useful. Once you're sure you have the anti-trapping and HK grill parts done, re-position it at the leading edge of the door, again taking care around the hinge area. The edge of this trim will slide under the foam weatherstripping in the middle of the leading edge of the door. Re-insert the two plastic pins (the holes should be well lined up between the trim and the door frame if the trim is properly aligned).

At this point you might want to make sure your window still operates properly. In any event, if you re-connected the battery you'll want to disconnect it again now - you'll be pounding on the door near the airbag shortly.

You are now ready to re-attach the door liner. Make sure everything else is done properly first - you don't want to go back in here if you don't have to. Plug in the woofer cable, then the midrange cable. Tap the speaker cable clamp back into the hole in the door liner that it came out of. Drop another blob of silicone on the back of the midrange, getting both halves of the connector, the bracket, and the back of the tweeter. Support the door panel on something (I used a 5 gallon bucket) to let the silicone set up for a bit.

Once the silicone is set, re-attach the door latch to the door liner and make sure the clip catches. Carefully align the door liner with the door locking pin. Now wiggle the door liner up and down and left and right until the rectangular clips at the top of the door frame line up, and tap the door back onto the clips. You now have to align the many round pins sticking out of the door liner with the matching holes in the door frame. I found it useful to lie on the garage floor, looking upward, with a flashlight and a dental pick to move the pins around as needed. When they are all aligned, pop the door liner back onto the door frame (I used the palm of my hand). Check for fit & finish all around - if there is a bulge between the edge of the liner and the door frame, you either have a misaligned pin or one that isn't popped back in. Repeat as neccessary.

Re-install the Torx screws (in the armrest and under the trim to the rear of the handle). Remember, the longest one goes near the door handle. Again, if you did this right these should all line up.

Re-install the window switch (driver's side) or filler (passenger's side), the two covers under the armrest, and the wood or plastic trim.

Re-install the painted mirror housing, again being careful of the 4 clips. Make sure the clips are completely engaged before the next step.

Re-install the mirror glass, being sure to re-connect the heater wires.

Repeat on the other side.

When you are done, you will need to re-set your mirror memory.
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Last edited by delmarco; 12-04-2008 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:29 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
there's a module shown in the bentley manual for seats with memory. but no mention of ribbons anywhere. i still think there is a module required to make it work. as the fold up can be part of the key or car memory when you lock the car and it folds up by itself without using the button.
Thia is the module that you are refering to

BMW 3 series e46 mirror memory module 61 31 6913364

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Old 12-04-2008, 11:55 PM   #64
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I solved it. It was in front of my face the whole time. It has nothing do with Mirror memory or type of switch or what ECU you have.
I did some more anoraking again tonight on REALOEM and the BMW ETK codes and founf this out;

If your BMW has a production date of 3/2003 or later then your Parts Numbers for the FOLD IN MIRROR is as follows

FOR VEHICLES WITH FOLD-IN OUTSIDE MIRROR
02 HEATED OUTSIDE MIRROR, MEMORY BUS, LEFT 1 FROM 03/2003 51167153087 $282.35
02 HEATED OUTSIDE MIRROR, MEMORY BUS, RIGHT 1 FROM 03/2003 51167153088 $282.35

These mirrors are indeed different than pre 3/2003 ones. I assume this difference refers to the "ribbon".

Post 2003 E46 BMWs w/ memory also do not have the Glove Box ECU or the In-Door Memory ECU. This has to do with the ribbons on post 3/2003
which should go somewhere that I haven't figured out yet.

The switches from 1998 to 2005 all share the same parts numbers and should be the same. If your Power Fold Mirrors have memory then the back is purple is your Power Fold Mirrors do not have memory then the back of the switch is yellow and there is an extra pin input for the folding function. If you have the normal ass boring USA-spec non-Power Fold Mirrors the your switch will have a Turquiose back.

That said, it is far easier to modify pre-3/2003 E46s than post ones.
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:58 AM   #65
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True but here in the UK, some late 02, early 04 have ribbon. Best thing to do is check which you have first.
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:04 AM   #66
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The module above is not fitted on cars arround 2005 with mirror memory, I know because I have that car and had all the door off and have the BMW wiring diagrams and it is not there. As said before, cars with ribbon type memory mirrors, the fold part of the system is built in to the mirror motor its self so if retro fitting folding mirrors on this type of vehicle, if keeping total OEM, you must fit folding mirrors, with memory, OEM type. Then the Purple backed adjust switch. There is no wiring on the vehicle for folding mirrors and none is require. Just fit the above parts and have the vehicle coded.
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:51 AM   #67
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Hey Delmarco, I emailed Terry Kennedy. He had 12 pin mirrors with memory, so it was plug and play. I think the_big_1 is right on this. Just need to have it turned on in the software.
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:53 AM   #68
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Get it done! Dying to know if thats all thats needed then I can look for some correct mirrors. I do have a simple, cheepish way of fitting the 12 pin type, folding mirrors on ribbon type that keeps the operation the same.
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:10 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notslow View Post
Hey Delmarco, I emailed Terry Kennedy. He had 12 pin mirrors with memory, so it was plug and play. I think the_big_1 is right on this. Just need to have it turned on in the software.
Is the 12 pin the ribbon or not?
When you guys say ribbon are you just refering to the cable that goes from the mirror to the switch? or another cable?

By the way I did a search on this forums and found this old DIY a couple of pages back that seem to clear up a few mysteries concerning the switches and wiring;

Part 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivegotissues666 View Post
I told everyone I would get around to it, and well I finally have, so here it is. OEM way of autofolding mirrors with Reverse Tilt. I am sure this retrofit is possible for 6 pin mirrors as well just probably a slightly different wiring configuration.

1 - A set of Autofolding mirrors (This DIY is for 12 pin mirrors)
1 - Autfolding switch (6 pin) - P/N # 61316901383
2 - Memory Modules - P/N # 61356916054 (You need 2 of these , and they run around $60-70 each)
12 - Pinouts for the 12 pin plugs - P/N # 61130006663
2 - 12 pin plugs - Consists of 2 - P/N# 61131383650, and 2 - P/N# 61131383736
6 - Door Harness male pinouts - P/N # 61130006664
1 - Fuse connector - P/N# 61138377731
3 - Ground and K-bus connectors - P/N # 61131387144
5 - t-taps
1 - 5 Amp fuse
Assortment of different colored 6 gauge wiring









Old Switch:





New Switch:





Tools need:

Wire crimpers/soldering iron
1/4" Drive Ratchet with 8mm socket
Philips Head Screwdriver
Assortment of Torx Bits

Step 1:

Disconnect the battery

Step 2:

Remove Front the door panels, instrument clustor, knee bolster, and hood release lever trim panel.



Remove these 2 top torx bolts to remove clustor:



Step 3:

Working at the drivers side start but disconnecting the door harness, this is accomplished by removing the one 8mm bolt securing the rubber gasket for the harness. Once removed, tilt back and remove just enough to lift p the locking mchanism that secures the 2 connectors together (Similar to the seat connectors)









Step 4:

Next what I did was installed 3 male pins P/N # 61130006664 into vacant slots Pins 23, 24, and 25 (Behind the hood release panel)

Pin 23 <---> Run wire Fuse positon 57
Pin 24 <---> Run wire to Pinout 14 at the Instrument Clustor and tap pinout 14 (Red/White/Yellow wire this is the K-bus signal)
Pin 25 <---> Ground

and installed on the female side 3 pins (The harness that comes from the door) P/N # 61130006663 to pins 23, 24, and 25 at the door harness itelf

Pin 23 <---> Pin 1 @ White Plug
Pin 24 <---> Pin 2 @ White Plug
Pin 25 <---> Pns 7 and 8 @ White Plug

Before I go any further here's a breif schematic of how the memory module is setup:

To the White plug on the module:

Switch <---> White Module

Pin 2 <---> Pin 4
Pin 3 <---> Pin 11
Pin 4 <---> Pin 10
Pin 1 <---> Pin 5

Ground Pins 7, and 8 on the white plug (What I did was spliced them together and connected them to Pin 25 on the door harness connector, then I grounded the interior door harness connector at Pin 25

Door Harness Connector <---> White Module (Drivers Side Memory Module)

Pin 23 <---> Pin 1 (12V from Fuse 57 (5 amp fuse)
Pin 24 <---> Pin 2 (K-bus signal)

To Black plug on the module:

Just connect the 12 pin harness from the mirror to the black plug on the module.

Step 5:

In order for the car to distinguish what signals what, I decided to it was best to disconnect all 6 pins at the switch that went to the door harness. Now since the new autofolding switch only uses 4 pins I simply tapped 4 of the wires at the switch and ran my new wires like I mentioned above.

Switch <---> White Module

Pin 2 <---> Pin 4
Pin 3 <---> Pin 11
Pin 4 <---> Pin 10
Pin 1 <---> Pin 5

I taped off the ones I disconnected and tucked them away.













K-Bus Signal @ Clustor:
Part 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivegotissues666 View Post


Running wires through rubber boots and installing pins:









Pins 23 - 25 installed:





Grounding Pin 25 here under carpet:



Getting ready to plug harness back together:



Plug in Both 12 pin Plugs to Drivers Side Module:



Step 6:

Remove Glovebox (Only held in by 6 philips head screws)



Step 7:

After doing the drivers side, the passengers side will be much easier, once again remove the 8mm bolts and the trim panel that covers the harness in the cabin.

Once you have both ends of the harness exposed, the wiring goes as follows:

From Door Harness <---> White Plug (Memory Module Pass Side)

Pin 23 <---> Pin 1 (12V from Fuse 57 (5 amp fuse)
Pin 24 <---> Pin 2 (K-bus signal)
Pin 25 <---> Pin 7 ONLY Ground

From the body harness on the interior:

Pin 23 <---> Run to Fuse Position 57 and splice with wire ran from drivers side
Pin 24 <---> Run to K-bus terminal behind glovebox
Pin 25 <---> Ground







Running wires of Passenger Side Door:



12 pin Plug Completed on Passenger Side:



Step 8:

Working at the fuse panel:

Connect wires you ran from the passenger and drivers side, splice together and connect to Fuse 57 using this connector:



Notice F57 is Vacant:



Now it's not:




Now Connect the K-bus wire for the Passenger side on top of the fuse panel were the K-bus terminal is located (All the Red/White/Yellow dotted thin 18 guage wires).


Step 9:

Clean up and assemble everything back together, everything is the reverse of removal.


I know it seems a bit confusing but it's really simple, and now you will have Reverse Tilt Functions as well as Autofolding mirrors. Anyways enjoy!

And Heres a small video I made of the autofolding in action:



Jared
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Last edited by delmarco; 12-05-2008 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:29 PM   #70
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Hi,

12 pin connector is not ribbon. Ribbon is 2 x 3 pin connectors that are on flat cable that goes to the mirror motor. Normal wire to the adjust switch etc. Ribbon type work off resistance changes on the adjust switch and CAN system, 12 pin is conventional type.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:38 PM   #71
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well we know that 12pin can be done. what we are trying to figure out is for the ribbons.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:54 PM   #72
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Yep, All we need to know now is if having the car coded will allow the parts fitted as they have been, will allow them to work. Once he has it we will know.
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:19 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot View Post
well we know that 12pin can be done. what we are trying to figure out is for the ribbons.
When you guys say 12 pin vs 6 pin vs ribbon do you mean the connection to the switch itself or the connection to the ECU/Memory module found inside the door?
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:10 AM   #74
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Its the connection between the mirror and the door.
If you look at the wiring as it exsist the mirror mount, you will see the connection(s)
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:41 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by notslow View Post
Hi,
Thanks for the input. The wires to heat the glass are actually below in the picture with the larger black connectors. Have the switch and fuse 57. The thing is, there is nowhere in the door to hook up the extra fold motor wires. The only place I can imaging they would connect is to these extra ribbon wires. If anyone has a stock auto fold mirror from an 03-05 they could verify in 30 seconds. But so far, I guess nobody has them. Thanks again for contributing.
This is a late model E46 Power Fold Mirror w/ the ribbons similar to your mirror.



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Old 12-06-2008, 04:17 PM   #76
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Hi,

Thats not a power fold mirror. The pic ashowing the back does not have the motor in it. But that is the ribbon type mirror
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:46 PM   #77
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Del Marco, Are the part numbers all for ribbon mirrors? I am just wondering if the different mirrors all have ribbons. Seems like ribbon mirrors could always have memory unless they have different processors in them. If you get them and actually loose the memory function, I would try replacing the adjust motor with the one from your old mirrors. They should bolt in the same.
Its funny that I finally actually understand the question now. The ribbons won't have different part numbers but the mirror unit itself have different part numbers between non ribbon (pre 3/2003) and ribbon (post/2003) mirrors.

What you have done is put the post-3/2003 ribbon motor inside an aftermarket mirror unit on a pre-3/2003 car (correct me if I have that wrong) which is why there is no real answer for what you have unless you go into the dealership and see if you can get that Frankenstein-of-a-mirror properly programmed to auto-fold.

By the way, what switch did you have for it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by the_big_1 View Post
Hi,

Thats not a power fold mirror. The pic ashowing the back does not have the motor in it. But that is the ribbon type mirror
LOL. Really? Because someone is selling them on eBay as Auto-Folding mirrors. LOL! Someone is about to get scammed on those.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-BMW-E4...1%7C240%3A1318
Quote:





YOU ARE BUYING A GENUINE BMW E36 OFFSIDE / DRIVERS SIDE COMPLETE WING MIRROR UNIT. IT COMES IN GLOSS BLACK. ITS GOT TWO MULTIPLUGS SOME I'M LEAD TO BELIEVE ITS A FOLDING MIRROR, PLEASE DO YOUR OWN HOMEWORK.

IT IS USED BUT IN GOOD CONDITION. THIS ITEM WAS INHERITED SO IT COMES UNTRIED AND UNTESTED THIS MEANS WE DID NOT REMOVE IT FROM THE VEHICLE, WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET.
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Last edited by delmarco; 12-06-2008 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:43 PM   #78
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http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=231313

another helpful link
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:19 PM   #79
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im comming up against this problem as i recently bought rep m3 mirrors that are the 12 pin type... does anyone sell a m3 rep mirror that used the ribbons?
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:52 PM   #80
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im comming up against this problem as i recently bought rep m3 mirrors that are the 12 pin type... does anyone sell a m3 rep mirror that used the ribbons?
I believe the original poster is using the Ribbon-based post 3/2003 motor on a pre 3/2003 pin type Aftermarket housing. So he is finding it difficult to fit the ribbon type connector into his car, basically the reverse of your problem.

I suggest you two swap motors his ribbon motor for your 12 pin motor and both of you will be happy.

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