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Old 12-03-2009, 05:42 PM   #1
Hunt323
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Question Water Pump and Thermostat Changed...Now No Heat

I had my water pump and thermostat changed today. My water pump was going bad and my thermostat was stuck open. Now my heater is not working. It was working when I took it to the shop today. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Hunter
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:15 PM   #2
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Hmm I wonder if they bled it properly. Maybe u should have them recheck their work! I'm no expert, but I wonder if this could be a result of the heater core not being opened up when they bled the coolant, so now maybe theres an airpocket there. Just an uneducated guess.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:17 PM   #3
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You should take it back to the shop. They probably need to bleed the system. There is a bleed screw next to the filler on the expansion tank.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:21 PM   #4
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^^ yup have them bleed the cooling system.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:22 PM   #5
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Make em do it while you wait :-) Shouldn't take long... That's something I would do myself though, it's not hard. Just need tdo turn heat all the way up with the fan all the way down lowest setting to open the heater core. They also say to have the engine running to help force air out. I bet they didn't do that with the heat when they bled the system, forgetful ppl. I would never trust a shop that doesn't take my cooling system seriously -- thats where they shouldn't mess up or they could cost you a new engine.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:30 PM   #6
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I know the guy pretty well. He said that i need to check the coolant level again after i drive it. I know how to bleed the system with the screw and the expansion tank. He got done with it right before they closed and did not have a chance to drive it. I will check it after the drive home from work tonight and see how it goes then. I think it is something simple like that because it was working before i took it there.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunt323 View Post
I know the guy pretty well. He said that i need to check the coolant level again after i drive it. I know how to bleed the system with the screw and the expansion tank. He got done with it right before they closed and did not have a chance to drive it. I will check it after the drive home from work tonight and see how it goes then. I think it is something simple like that because it was working before i took it there.
I think I'm right. I think he forgot to open the heater core when he filled her up. :-P
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:38 PM   #8
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is there anyway you could tell me how to do that....sounds simple enough.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:43 PM   #9
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I thought I did?
Turn heat as high as it goes (don't forget the dial between the 2 middle vents all teh way to red), it's like 90F or something like that.
Turn the Fan to the lowest setting
Open your coolant cap.
Take off the bleed screw next to it.
Turn the car so the air blows (Most diys say don't start the car, but some ppl I hear say start the car to help get all the air forced out)
Watch the bubbles :-P add coolant during.

This is what I've read so far.. I'm doing this for my car next week.

If he didn' have the car on like that and the heat settings like that, the heater core is closed up. I havn't heard, but I'd take a wild guess the symptom cou'd be no heat. I bet you could be in for a longer then normal bleed if that cuased some decent air bubbles :-P If that doesn' twork, then take it back, he might have to take the coolant out and start over.. or just spend a lot of time bleeding all the air out.
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Last edited by Xeek; 12-03-2009 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:51 PM   #10
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Thanks alot man. I will try when i get home.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:57 PM   #11
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http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=721376
Read this... so I think I'm right! :-)
Def probably will fix you right up. YOu can probalby do this without taking it back to that guy, rebleed, engine on. I don't think u have to rev it like they say.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:03 PM   #12
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I am sorry i missed a post. you did tell me how to do it twice.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:07 PM   #13
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It's cool, I was more concise the second time anyway :-) do it with engine running, that'l help. Keep peeking at your temp guage though make sure it stays in the good zone.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:14 PM   #14
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Apparently it worked it self out on the ride home. I got the rpm up high and all of a sudden hot air! Then I let off the gas and it went cold again, so I put it in fourth for a while down the highway and hot air again. Shortly after the coolant light came on, but the air never went cold again. I am going to put some more coolant in it in the morning and I think everything will be ok from now on.

Thanks for the help.

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Old 12-03-2009, 09:59 PM   #15
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Turn the Fan to the lowest setting
Just curious, why on low? I always thought it was high?

When doing this procedure, if the car has not been used for days before this, while doing this bleeding procedure, does it matter that no hot air is blowing out of the vents while bleeding? Would this be any indication that I am not getting any air out? Does it have to blow out hot air? The last time I tried this, I actually turned on the car, bleeder screw loose, cap off and the coolant just came dribbling out of the bleeder screw creating a mess as it dribbled out of that area all around.

Also, what does it mean when I get heat out of the vents below the windshield and also below the foot well, but all the vents at chest level blow cool? I had the temp setting up to like 85 F and it also read "AUTO" on the screen. Additionally, the "AUTO" button right next to the colder/hotter rocker was also lit with the green LED. While I had the temperature setting like that, the ambient was reading in the 40's.

Does anyone know how what extent is this "automatic" climate control is "automatic?" Is it just as smart as only maintaining the temp setting which you set with varying the blower speed, freon release or heating amount? Can it override my setting for say wanting it to be in the 80's inside even though it is say in the 70's outside?
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xeek View Post
I thought I did?
Turn heat as high as it goes (don't forget the dial between the 2 middle vents all teh way to red), it's like 90F or something like that.
Turn the Fan to the lowest setting
Open your coolant cap.
Take off the bleed screw next to it.
Turn the car so the air blows (Most diys say don't start the car, but some ppl I hear say start the car to help get all the air forced out)
Watch the bubbles :-P add coolant during.

This is what I've read so far.. I'm doing this for my car next week.

If he didn' have the car on like that and the heat settings like that, the heater core is closed up. I havn't heard, but I'd take a wild guess the symptom cou'd be no heat. I bet you could be in for a longer then normal bleed if that cuased some decent air bubbles :-P If that doesn' twork, then take it back, he might have to take the coolant out and start over.. or just spend a lot of time bleeding all the air out.
This is incorrect. You must let the system pressurize before you open the bleed screw. For this, you MUST have the expansion tank fill cap closed. You cannot bleed a system that can not be pressurized. The point is to get the pressure built, and have the air pockets rise to the highest point in the cooling system, which would be the bleed screw.
Also, I always turn the fan to max. Seems to help.
Regards.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:46 AM   #17
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The proper procedure should be as follows:

Fill coolant in the expansion tank.
Keep bleed screw closed
Turn car on, turn it to max heat and full fan speed
Let the engine temps increase.
Once temps reach normal operating range, open the bleed screw, keep it open until stream of coolant starts to pour from the bleed screw. Initially it will be just air, then air bubbles in the coolant and then coolant only.
Wait for car too cool down and then top off coolant in expansion tank.
Sometimes, it helps driving the car to get the last bit of bubbles out.

Regards.
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