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Any one changed a PVC valve on your e46?

76K views 29 replies 18 participants last post by  milbogo 
#1 · (Edited)
So I took my car to BMW for diagnosis a few days ago, as I had this problem with the car idling rough when the engine was cold then stopping when it was warm its not a major issue but it was annoying originally I suspected the vannos seals, I even bought new vannos seals from the USA and was going to install them lol.

Apparently according to BMW its deffiantly not this which is causing the problem yet its the "PVC valve" which is partially blocked.

I rang up my e46 BMW specialist they quoted me $650-700 to replace this part including labor, did not really bother asking BMW as i know it would be like $2000+ quote.

My question is, Is this job really hard to do?? I can source the part OEM from the USA for like $60-70, I also have read you need to change the hoses too..

Done the e46 thermostat on the car and that was a easy job...

Only real DIY I could find was this guys -

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323335

Any input, thank you.
 
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#3 ·
The job is not hard at all. Take it slow and take regards to the following tips I give you:

- When working on removing the intake boots, there is a small intake elbow that extends to the very front of your PVC/ICV. Be careful not to bend these at all as they might already be broken and brittle.

- Observe the intake boots carefully, especially around the bends and observe for cracks or brittleness. If damage or brittleness is apparent, replace immediately as these can cause vacuum leaks.

- When you remove the DISA Adjuster Unit, ensure that is thoroughly clean. A proper, working DISA Adjuster Unit will have a flap that does not move freely. Only with a fair bit of pressure will the flap move, but quickly followed by a retraction to its original position.

- Both the DISA Adjuster Unit and the Idle Control Valve should be cleaned thoroughly once taken out. Use a cleaner that does not leave any residue and you will be fine.

- Your best bet is to clean both parts mentioned above as thoroughly as possible. If idling does not improve, then proceed to replace. But again, before you replace check the rest of these parts to ensure they are in fine working order first:
1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition coils
3. Crankcase ventilation valve
4. Intake boots
5. VANOS seals
6. pre-cat and post-cat Oxygen sensors
7. Adjuster Unit (DISA)
8. Idle Control Valve (what BMW call PVC)
These are very common culprits for rough idling. Trust me, I've been through this already and I've helped fixed a fair number of cars with similar symptoms.

Talking about symptoms: Do you notice power loss? Can you possibly describe the symptoms a little more? Do you have a CEL appearing? What codes are showing up?
 
#23 ·
The job is not hard at all. Take it slow and take regards to the following tips I give you:

- When working on removing the intake boots, there is a small intake elbow that extends to the very front of your PVC/ICV. Be careful not to bend these at all as they might already be broken and brittle.

- Observe the intake boots carefully, especially around the bends and observe for cracks or brittleness. If damage or brittleness is apparent, replace immediately as these can cause vacuum leaks.

- When you remove the DISA Adjuster Unit, ensure that is thoroughly clean. A proper, working DISA Adjuster Unit will have a flap that does not move freely. Only with a fair bit of pressure will the flap move, but quickly followed by a retraction to its original position.

- Both the DISA Adjuster Unit and the Idle Control Valve should be cleaned thoroughly once taken out. Use a cleaner that does not leave any residue and you will be fine.

I have bmw 318 2003 facelift saloon. Read your post and yes my car does show symptoms of power loss, power is there for a second and then its not for 2 seconds and then back again. Today when I pulled over to park and stopped, the car stalled. The thing is that sometimes the car will drive normal and the other times it wont.

- Your best bet is to clean both parts mentioned above as thoroughly as possible. If idling does not improve, then proceed to replace. But again, before you replace check the rest of these parts to ensure they are in fine working order first:
1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition coils
3. Crankcase ventilation valve
4. Intake boots
5. VANOS seals
6. pre-cat and post-cat Oxygen sensors
7. Adjuster Unit (DISA)
8. Idle Control Valve (what BMW call PVC)
These are very common culprits for rough idling. Trust me, I've been through this already and I've helped fixed a fair number of cars with similar symptoms.

Talking about symptoms: Do you notice power loss? Can you possibly describe the symptoms a little more? Do you have a CEL appearing? What codes are showing up?

I have bmw 318 2003 facelift saloon. Read your post and yes my car does show symptoms of power loss, power is there for a second and then its not for 2 seconds and then back again. Today when I pulled over to park and stopped, the car stalled. The thing is that sometimes the car will drive normal and the other times it wont. I have no warnig lights. Codes didnt come up on the diagnostic machine. What could it be? And is it an expensive fix?
 
#4 ·
I don't know man I took it to BMW and got a diagnosis they read the codes for me and they diagnosed it.

The things that need fixing are

Oil sensor - I know that was stuffed, but its a very easy fix and I can source a new one for 60 USD =)

and it says partially blocked PVC valve..
 
#5 · (Edited)
Not going to tread on toes here but the PVC or Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is not to control idle.

Its to vent the crankcase from gases that are able to leak past the piston and cylinder. Mine was made evident due to high pitched whistle after approximately 30 minutes of driving, Crack the oil filler cap and whistle disappears.

For your 320i, I believe the P/N for the valve is 11617501566. Tischer in US have them for about $46.10 US. $650-700 is a rip job. Part from BMW in Aus would be about $100 - $140 and if they are charging $100 an hour labor then they just quoted you 5 hours labor... Whats he doing removing the engine ?

You have to remove the Cabin Micro filter to get to it in the 4 cylinders, not sure about the 6's. Was the first repair I did to my car. Took me about 45 minutes.
 
#16 ·
I did this job without removing the manifold, but it was pain in the ass working ander the manifold, sence no space, and you cant see every thing very will. I thing the easest way is to remove the intake manifold, and change the gaskit. That will give you chance to see if there is any other crap things.
 
#18 ·
Hey did this DIY like 1-2 months ago....

I took the car to bmw for diagnosis which said the PCV which is the oil/ fuel separator was blocked and the whole unit needed to be changed along with all the hoses too...but really it was just a hose on the unit which was worn away which was a real pain the ass because it left me changing the - whole unit and all the hoses...

Oh well, and this job was a ***** took me and my dad like 10 hours haha, but yeh guess it would take a mechanic like 4 hours probly...

Havn't really had any more early start issues...Hopefully it fixes the problem this is the shittest thing about e46's but all the dam hoses that waste away after only 8 years...
 
#21 ·
that sucks about it being a tough job. The pvc on my last car was a small one way valve about 2 cm in length and 6mm wide. Easily in plain sight and takes about 30secs to unscrew and replace.
 
#22 ·
hi i have a bmw e46 318i and i have idle problem i have had idle problems when my fuel tank is half way or just under the first bar i dont know why only then and just now i have a vacum leak somewhere as i turn the car on it will turn off sometimes and then i pop the bonnet and i can hear vacum i can hear like air leaking somewhere and i took some of the covers off idk wat ther called and i have noticed my pcv hose had a hole the one from the pcv into the engine so i swapped it and car worked fine for one day and then i noticed more air noise and took it all off and its coming from where my pcv is located but a few of the mechanics said it is not that it could be some idle model thingy i dont know what they meant but they wanted me to leave my car there for them to diagnose and charge but i didnt i called up a few bmw mechanics and they all said its the pcv from the sound of it as when i turn of the car air blows out and it sounds like its from there so now i baught a new pcv valve for $25 and mechanics want around $200 to change it and i have the little valve for 318i e46 its just a circle and small nothing else so i found that abit shocking so now im going to go try and change it and see if it stops but any1 any ideas what caused it or if it could be something else
 
#24 ·
From my own experience changing out my PCV valve and hoses on my 318i N42B20 engine if I was to be charged $200 to change it out I would have paid it gladly.

There's a fair bit of work involved, in addition to removing the cabin filter plenum you have to remove the air intake manifold which is held in by two wonderful Torx screws generally only accessed from under the car after removing the cover plate that's there. On top of that the fuel injector assembly also needs to come out too.

I got my air intake manifold removed from the top but it was arduous to do in the garage and took several hours to do.
 
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