Where do you support the engine with a jack once you've lowered the engine brace onto a stand or jack? (I do not have access to an engine lift/cherry picker) The only place that makes sense to me is on the ac compressor. Is there anything else holding the engine in place at this time besides the torque converter?
you need an engine hoist if you are removing the oil pan since the oil pan is usually the only place to jack the engine if you want to lift it without a hoist
BMW has a special tool that basically stradles the engine compartment and is support by both shock towers. The engine is then hung/support from this cross beam.
The engine is supported from above with a brace that attaches at the lift eye by the VANOS. The BMW brace is $$$ - +$1k. I've done this a few times. It's risky and a bit dangerous supporting the motor from below with the front subframe removed. Harbor Freight has a relatively cheap solution, although I have no personal experience with their tool.
i just did this like 3 months ago and i jacked it up from the tranny pan, just make sure u get smthn between the jack and trany pan like a piece of wood. gl
I know you should use a brace, but I also know several people have done it using only a jack from underneath like you did. Weren't you afraid of the engine giving way from the uneven weight distribution with nothing supporting it from beyond the transmission? My local Indy quoted me 4.5 hours of labor even though he'll have my cross-brace and control arms/bushings off anyway for other work. That sickens me.
PS... If you're taking the pan off, secure the oil pump nut while you're in there. It's a lousy $10 for a nut that is pre-drilled with security wire. :thumbsup:
Is the eyelet or engine lift ring by the vanos enough to hold the engine in place with the engine cross brace off? Do you need other lift points to do the job. I plan to use the HF engine brace mentioned in this post to hold up the engine while doing the oil pan gasket replacement.
after reading this thread I worked the oil pan around a bit and got it off without removing the oil pump. It helps to remove the small bracket at the front of the oil pan on the driver's side, it gives a little more room.
The last one I did at work. I test drove after I completed the job and it drove straight and the steering wheel was straight. However I did check the toe and found it was slightly out of spec.
I always include an alignment for any quote that involves removing/replacing any suspension parts. Even though there may be no immediate symptoms, over the course of few thousand miles, a minor toe issue can eat up tires pretty bad.
Okay...just my 2 cents. Repair times are APPROXIMATE not EXACT, true mechanics are faster than techs. Login, no offense but about half of what you say adds to repair time is BS, you're padding the bill sir. Oil fill? You drained it, fill it back up. Road test? That's on you, checking to see if you messed up or not. Lift and verify? You should know if you did it right or not. Cleaning up after yourself? That's on you brother.
I suppose the clock is still running if you run to the john or getting tools before you start or washing your hands(you forgot that one). I hate using the book for repair times because it's mostly inaccurate...1hr billed is more like 20min actual work time.
Just saying.
1) Discover the BMW mommy gave me has an oil pan leak.
2) Search google for a how-to to fix it myself.
3) Find a thread on E46F where grown men are talking.
4) Realize I can't do it myself because I'm 16.
5) Realize there's no way I can pay 4.5 hrs labor on my McDonalds salary.
6) Sign up for E46F and make a single post displaying my ignorance.
7) Ask mommy for a loan.
Yep, pretty much!
Some of these people on here are so dumb and ignorant!
Don't wanna pay then do it yourself, judging by the idiot speaking it will take him 10 hours before he has the car towed to a shop to fix his mess!:excited:
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