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DIY: Fitting a SAC clutch

113K views 52 replies 24 participants last post by  Stevo417 
#1 ·
Ok, so certain of the e46's have a Self Adusting Clutch
According to the Bentley manual, this requires several special (read expensive) tools to fit. Fortunatley i have found it's possible with some more common ones.

The SAC works by having a rotary plate inside the cover plate assembly that is pushed clockwise by springs. As the clutch wears, this rotary plate slowly moves clockwise to take up the wear.

NB. It seems that new clutches come with this SAC pre-reset in the anti-clockwise position with a shipping plate. But if you want to refit an existing clutch you need to reset it.

To reset the SAC you will need a large 3 legged bearing puller as in the picture (these are relatively cheap, i picked up a set of 4 for about $30).
Before the SAC can be reset the diaphram spring must be compressed. I made a cylindrical block on a lathe which just sits inside the spring fingers. If you dont have a lathe, some improvisation could be done.

1. Insert the puller as shown & compress the spring. Note that the silver SAC plate underneath can be freely moved now.
Auto part Metal

Auto part Clutch

2. Fit the clutch disc on to the flywheel with the normal centering tool.

3. With the spring still compressed (puller attached) fit the cover plate to the flywheel & tighten all the cover bolts.
Auto part Engine Clutch Transmission part Wheel

4. Using a screwdriver or similar, rotate the silver SAC plate fully anti-clockwise. Note there are alignment marks near the small springs to show this.
Auto part Clutch part Clutch Automotive wheel system Wheel

5. Keep the SAC plate in the anti-clockwise position with the screwdriver while removing the pressure on the diaphram spring, and remove the puller.

6. Remove the centering tool.
 
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#6 ·
Well if you want to replace your clutch than maybe it is also better to replace the pressure plate the SAC system self. If you buy a clutch set than you will get a new clutch with the pressure plate already setup. Only you have to do is remove the new diaphram when the installation is complete. This D.I.Y is great really but, its only comming handy if the installer want to re-use the pressure plate.
 
#9 ·
This is great, I'm just hoping that it'll work for me. I'm converting my 740iL from an auto to a 6spd that I picked up from an M5 w/ 24k on the odo. I'm curious though, so bear w/ me and tell me if I understanding this correctly.

It seems that the SAC is a wheel that slowly spins clockwise as the clutch surface wears, so use that puller to just press the fingers, turn the wheel counterclockwise back to zero, then release the fingers and it'd lock the spinning wheel? I realize that I need to bolt on the flywheel, then the put up the clutch and pressure plate, but then how am I getting the alignment tool in there if the puller is in the way holding the fingers down on the pressure plate?
 
#10 ·
Exactly.
For the centering tool, i made a short one that would go under the puller. but i guess you could also cut the top off of the plastic one.

It seems that the SAC is a wheel that slowly spins clockwise as the clutch surface wears, so use that puller to just press the fingers, turn the wheel counterclockwise back to zero, then release the fingers and it'd lock the spinning wheel? I realize that I need to bolt on the flywheel, then the put up the clutch and pressure plate, but then how am I getting the alignment tool in there if the puller is in the way holding the fingers down on the pressure plate?
 
#16 ·
Exactly...why replace my clutch w/ a brand new one when the one I have now only has 24k on it.

I'm still curious as to if I can just reset the clutch w/ the need to be installing it in the car at the same time. Can I just reset it on the bench and remove the clamp and it'll stay reset? I got a 3 finger puller set from Harbor Freight and we able to push the fingers of the pressure plate down, but I couldn't get anything to spin or find anything moveable. :confused:
 
#17 ·
I'm still curious as to if I can just reset the clutch w/ the need to be installing it in the car at the same time. Can I just reset it on the bench and remove the clamp and it'll stay reset?
Maybe, but you would have to find some way to lock the mechanism in place while you fit it (like the transit lock the new clutch comes with)
Is it not easier to do in-situ as my photo's?
 
#18 ·
I have no issue doing it the same way you did, I was just hoping to not have to go re-purchase the puller again. I stripped the 1st set I purchased trying to remove the CV Joint in my X5, so I returned them. I'll just buy them again when the time comes to install the clutch into the 7. Thanks Hoss.
 
#23 ·
If you dont reset the springs properly, then as the clutch wears, it will not self-adjust - i.e. more & more pedal travel until (possibly) clutch slipping even when there is still life in the friction plate.

But there's no reason not to reset the springs properly if you follow this procedure, it really is easy.

PM me - i'll give you the address for the check ;)
 
#28 ·
Since this is a DIY and will help someone in the future, I'm going to be a necromancer and bring this thread back from the dead to share my experience.

Get a 1/2" pipe flange like the one pictured along with a 1/2" pipe plug like the second picture. centers the puller nicely and worked great for me to compress the springs. About $4 at my local Menards. YMMV.



 
#33 ·
RE bump. Had to swap M54 2.5 in my 2001 Touring. After looking at this thread (THE best that I found) I bought an 8" 3 jaw puller at Harbor Freight and used a plate out of a bushing driver set I own. Worked perfectly. The existing clutch disc had less than .2mm wear, so I saved plenty on a new clutch kit. To the OP (from 2008 !!!), thanks for posting and sharing the pictures.
 
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