There are actually 7 bushings back there... 6 of them are for the differential/rear axle carrier assembly, and 1 connects to a tab on the backside of the differential itself.
The bushing you found on pelican parts is the bushing that attaches to the backside of the differential.
The number that you quoted from realoem is for the TWO rear-most carrier bushings.
If you look at the drawing you'll see:
a bushing identified as "7" on the drawing... there are two of these, they are called rubber mounting front.
a bushing identified as "2" on the drawing... there are two of these, they are the rubber mounting front.
a bushing identified as "4" on the drawing... there are two of these, they are the rubber mounting rear. (carrier)
and one bushing identified as "9" on the drawing... this is also called the rubber mounting rear, but it is directly attached to the differential, while the other pairs attach to the carrier assembly.
As you can see, BMW uses similar descriptions for the bushings, so you need to figure out which bushing or bushings you want.
I know that Meyle makes an HD version of bushing "9", and I'm sure Ruben could help you with that item.
There are actually 7 bushings back there... 6 of them are for the differential/rear axle carrier assembly, and 1 connects to a tab on the backside of the differential itself.
The bushing you found on pelican parts is the bushing that attaches to the backside of the differential.
The number that you quoted from realoem is for the TWO rear-most carrier bushings.
If you look at the drawing you'll see:
a bushing identified as "7" on the drawing... there are two of these, they are called rubber mounting front.
a bushing identified as "2" on the drawing... there are two of these, they are the rubber mounting front.
a bushing identified as "4" on the drawing... there are two of these, they are the rubber mounting rear. (carrier)
and one bushing identified as "9" on the drawing... this is also called the rubber mounting rear, but it is directly attached to the differential, while the other pairs attach to the carrier assembly.
As you can see, BMW uses similar descriptions for the bushings, so you need to figure out which bushing or bushings you want.
I know that Meyle makes an HD version of bushing "9", and I'm sure Ruben could help you with that item.
There are no bushings that attach to the diff unit itself on the E46 (E30, E36 yes). The rear bushing is pressed into the diff carrier. A large bolt goes through it and to the diff cover. It's a pita to replace because you have to drop the diff and press it out/in. rear bushing part number #33176751808.
^as he stated above. There are 7 bushings in the diff carrier/subframe.
But three of these are used to connect/buffer the diff unit to the carrier(the other four connect the carrier/subframe to the rear floorpan). Of the three used for the differential, the single rear one is often the one that goes out. You can probably crawl under the car and look with a flashlight to view the rear bushing's quality. The other two of the differential connect the front of the diff to the front of the carrier. Those don't go out often, and are hard to view with the diff mounted. Several aftermarket kits have the three diff mounting bushings in the kit. Some are solid and semi-solid. If Ruben from DMW has a HD version of the rear alone, that might be the way to go.
Does anyone know which bushing normally needs to be replaced when there is a "thud" noise when letting go of the gas or depressing the clutch?
Or will i have to purchase a set of jackstands and go under my car and have a look? Someone has to have done this before and I think normally its one bushing that fails.
Yeah, I do all me work myself also... Its hard to see paying someone to replace a part thats sitting right in front of my face. Did you get it done at the dealer? How much was the labor charge?
If you are a frequent DIYer and have the proper tool to extract & install the diff bushings it isnt that bad. You NEED either the BMW special tool, the one from bimmertools.com, or a homemade version. There is a very good DIY on here, read it several times beforehand. It may be a good idea to pick up replacement torx bolt which mount the drive axles to the diff flanges since they are torqued to about 70 ' lbs and tricky to get off w/out a little rounding. Best of luck and DIY!
FYI: The labor rate for the rear only is ~3.5 hours according to alldata but I got quoted something like $750 from dan martins' in gaithersburg. I ended doing it in 5 hours w/a frame lift, hand tools and a homemade press tool. I'm about to purchase to proper tool from bimmertools.com and for a very small fee you can use it if you like. DIY!
too bad you don't live in tx, or i'd give you my diff bushing removal tool. its not really a super easy job, but its not super complicated either. you have to remove your rear diff, which you'll need a E12 torx socket to do, as well as a 21mm wrench and socket, a 18mm socket, a 13mm socket(for removing the crossmember thats in front of the rear diff), and the bushing removal tool.
this thread links to the diff bushing installation/removal tool, but i modified mine, hence posting that thread. although i doubt its necissary to go with the thicker threaded rod for regular bushings, i did for my aluminum ones.
$23.50!!!??? I paid $40 shipped for mine from another sponser here (not to mention names). I got jacked!!!! :banghead:
I guess I'll know better next time.
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