Hi all:
Just finished installing Powerflex control arm bushings in my '00 323iT.
I did NOT replace the control arms themselves. I ordered the CABs from Bimmerworld already pressed into new aluminum housings, and the job was a breeze with BIG payoff in terms of improvement of the car's driving characteristics.
I had been experiencing the steering wheel shimmy and jerking (upon stabbing the brakes) that I had learned are characteristic of bad CABs from my e30.
This was a very very easy job. Took me less than one hour, including time spent jacking the car up etc. Hardly got dirty.
1) Jack up the car and support it securely with jackstands. I placed my stands on the frame rails just aft of the point where the CAB housings are bolted on. Remove the wheels (break the lugnuts before jacking ... )
2) Loosen but do not remove the six phillips head screws from the undertray. Remove the three black plastic "christmas tree" fasteners that hold the undertray to the bumper cover (at least on my car ... but mine has a 330i fascia and that might be different than some others).
3) Remove the four 16 mm bolts that hold the triangular crossbrace to the car.
Note: My car has self-leveling Xenon headlights. I did not unbolt the leveling sensor arm from the control arms. It was suggested that I should have done so and that I was lucky to not have damaged the sensors. I dunno ... My self levelers still work fine.
4) Unbolt the two 16 mm bolts that attach the CAB housing to the frame. Carefully work the housing loose from its attachment points; the arm should dangle down several inches from the frame rail.
5) Using a 3- or 4-inch C-clamp, pull the old bushing carefully from the control arm. It's pressed on, and it needs to be pulled off with a tool; you can't do it by hand. Be careful not to damage the aluminum control arm. You'll have to work the clamp on one side, then undo and switch sides. Be patient. It works; takes five to 10 minutes max.
6) Lubricate the purple Powerflex cab insert and shove it ALL THE WAY into the delrin part that was pressed into the CAB housing. I didn't get the first insert in all the way, and it was deceptive. It looked right. But the purple part should depress so that it is flush with the face of the black delrin part.
7) Shove the new CAB onto the control arm by hand. Yes, you can. It's that easy. Then shove the arm and housing back to its attachment points on the frame rail and bolt it back down. Bentley recommends torquing those bolts to 44 ft-lb.
8) Repeat steps 4 through 7 on the passenger side.
9) Reinstall the cross brace, undertray and wheels. Remove the jackstands and lower the car.
That's it. Woohoo!!! No more shimmy, no more jerky wheel when I stab the brakes. MUCH sharper turn in. It's a happy Bimmer again.
Right on, Powerflex!
d.hitchcock
Just finished installing Powerflex control arm bushings in my '00 323iT.
I did NOT replace the control arms themselves. I ordered the CABs from Bimmerworld already pressed into new aluminum housings, and the job was a breeze with BIG payoff in terms of improvement of the car's driving characteristics.
I had been experiencing the steering wheel shimmy and jerking (upon stabbing the brakes) that I had learned are characteristic of bad CABs from my e30.
This was a very very easy job. Took me less than one hour, including time spent jacking the car up etc. Hardly got dirty.
1) Jack up the car and support it securely with jackstands. I placed my stands on the frame rails just aft of the point where the CAB housings are bolted on. Remove the wheels (break the lugnuts before jacking ... )
2) Loosen but do not remove the six phillips head screws from the undertray. Remove the three black plastic "christmas tree" fasteners that hold the undertray to the bumper cover (at least on my car ... but mine has a 330i fascia and that might be different than some others).
3) Remove the four 16 mm bolts that hold the triangular crossbrace to the car.
Note: My car has self-leveling Xenon headlights. I did not unbolt the leveling sensor arm from the control arms. It was suggested that I should have done so and that I was lucky to not have damaged the sensors. I dunno ... My self levelers still work fine.
4) Unbolt the two 16 mm bolts that attach the CAB housing to the frame. Carefully work the housing loose from its attachment points; the arm should dangle down several inches from the frame rail.
5) Using a 3- or 4-inch C-clamp, pull the old bushing carefully from the control arm. It's pressed on, and it needs to be pulled off with a tool; you can't do it by hand. Be careful not to damage the aluminum control arm. You'll have to work the clamp on one side, then undo and switch sides. Be patient. It works; takes five to 10 minutes max.
6) Lubricate the purple Powerflex cab insert and shove it ALL THE WAY into the delrin part that was pressed into the CAB housing. I didn't get the first insert in all the way, and it was deceptive. It looked right. But the purple part should depress so that it is flush with the face of the black delrin part.
7) Shove the new CAB onto the control arm by hand. Yes, you can. It's that easy. Then shove the arm and housing back to its attachment points on the frame rail and bolt it back down. Bentley recommends torquing those bolts to 44 ft-lb.
8) Repeat steps 4 through 7 on the passenger side.
9) Reinstall the cross brace, undertray and wheels. Remove the jackstands and lower the car.
That's it. Woohoo!!! No more shimmy, no more jerky wheel when I stab the brakes. MUCH sharper turn in. It's a happy Bimmer again.
Right on, Powerflex!
d.hitchcock