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Lets solve the folding ribbon mirror mystery

149K views 131 replies 29 participants last post by  OURMANDAN 
#1 ·
Okay, here is a picture of my ribbon connector mirror motor installed in the aftermarket folding mirror housings. Everything is connected like stock. The stock ribbon mirror adjust motor has two extra ribbon wires (circled in red). The wires circled in blue are for the fold motor. I'm wondering if these extra ribbon connections are to connect to the fold motor. I have tested them for voltage/ground. and I got nothing. Is there a chance I need to activate the feature in the software? Where do the fold motor wires normally connect to control the folding by the factory fold button? I'm hoping this can be solved once and for all..

Thanks, Will

 
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#58 ·
Yep! You are all getting my thoughts now.
A simple way of seeing it, without part numbers is this.

A pre 2003/2002 none memory, none power fold have a 6 way conector on the mirrors and an adjusting switch.

A pre 2003/2002 with power fold none memory have 12 way connector, module in the door and an adjust switch.

A pre 2003/2002 with memory and no power fold have 12 way connector, module in the door and an adjust switch.

A pre 2003/2002 with memory and power fold have 12 way connector, module in the door, fold module behind glovebox and an adjust switch.

A post 2003/2002 none memory, none power fold have a 2 x 3 way conectors (Ribbon)on the mirrors and an adjusting switch.

A post 2003/2002 with power fold none memory have 12 way connector, module in the door and an adjust switch.

A post 2003/2002 with memory and no power fold have 2 x 3 way connector, (Ribbon) module in the mirror motor and an adjust switch.

A post 2003/2002 with memory and power fold have 2x3 way connector (Ribbon), module in the mirror motor, and an adjust switch.


I think thats the way it is done.

Like I siad, if you have memory seats on a post 2003 like me, I think all that is needed is the correct mirrors with the memory module built in to the mirror motor, the correct purple back adjust switch. I think the car has to be codded one all the bits are fitted.
 
#61 · (Edited)
Terry from TMK responded to my email questions and here is what he has to say
in bold print below;
Sorry to bother you, but I'm currently attempting the same
> modification for my 2001 330i and was wondering when you ordered the
> power-folding mirrors and switch were they anything else you needed to
> order for the function to work?


You need a car that can support folding mirrors (see below), the folding
mirror housings, and the mirror control switch with the extra folding but-
ton. I got all of these parts at my local dealer. They had the button and
passenger-side mirror housing in stock and had to order the driver's side
mirror housing.



> Also did the mirrors "plug in and play"? Like your car, my BMW also
> has the Mirror/Seat Memory Function and I've heard rumors that on
> BMWs with Memory the DIY for the Power Folding Mirrors w/ Memory
> should be as simple as plug and play.
> If you can list any key steps that would be helpful I will be very grateful.


Yes. If the car has the seat/mirror memory option, it should just work.
The hardest part is getting the door apart.

I did a write-up some years ago. It can be found here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39558

Terry Kennedy http://www.tmk.com
terry@tmk.com New York, NY USA
I have not got a chance to check his link out yet, but I believe his BMW is a 2003 325xiT Wagon.

EDIT:
Here is the complete DIY written by Terry Kennedy on BFest.com way back in 9/2003
E46 wagon folding mirrors (non-M3)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A number of people have asked me about this, so I figured I'd post some details. This isn't a full DIY as I didn't take pictures while the car was apart, and it isn't for the faint of heart anyway.

All that is needed are 3 parts available at your BMW dealer (left mirror assembly, right mirror assembly, and switch). No painting is needed - you re-use your old mirror housings.

Here is a PDF file http://www.tmk.com/transient/folding-mirrors.pdf of the ETK page for the mirrors. This will give you the part numbers for the left and right mirrors (item #2) for cars with and without "high gloss shadow line". You also need a replacement mirror control switch. On my car it was 61 31 6 901 383 which is the switch for folding mirrors and seat memory. Part number 61 31 8 373 732 is for folding mirrors without seat memory. The mirror housings list for about $250 each and the switch for about $50.

Before I started I made sure that I had a fuse in position 57 (folding mirrors).

You'll want to disconnect the battery, as the doors have airbags in them and you don't want any accidents. Roll down both the driver and passenger side front windows first.

These instructions are for cars with the HK option - some steps will likely be different for non-HK cars.

I would also suggest leaving one door untouched while you do the other one - you will run into a bunch of "how the heck does this go back together" situations, and having another door for comparison is very useful.

First, I removed the mirror glass (see the split mirror DIY for instructions). Once the glass was removed, 4 small tabs are visible near the corners of the housing. Gently releasing these tabs (they can easily break, particularly the one that is recessed more than the others) will let you remove the painted cover from the leading edge of the mirror housing. What you have left is the part you will replace.

You now have to pretty much gut the doors - remove the mirror switch by pulling up and disconnecting the cable (driver's side) or the blank trim piece (passenger's side) and 2 plastic caps on the underside of the armrest. Unscrew the 3 Torx screws exposed by this. Gently remove the wood or plastic trim, starting at the rear edge of the door and working toward the handle. Remove the Torx screws you have exposed (the one that is longer is the one closest to the handle).

Gently pop the door liner off the door frame. It is secured by a large number of round clips around the side and bottom edges of the door frame and a number of rectangular clips at the top edge of the door frame. Carefully lift it over the door locking pin at the rear. At this point it will still be attached via the handle linkage and a speaker wire. Carefully undo the clip at the rear of the handle and pivot out the linkage cable and white plastic piece.

The speaker wire is attached by a push-in clamp, and then connectors on the backs of the speakers. The woofer is easy - just pinch the clip to release. The midrange is the usual AMP captive-catch connector. I used my usual trick of pushing on the captive catch with a dental pick to depress it, and then pulling the connector halves apart. I haven't found a good way to remove the cable clamp from the back of the door liner other than by giving it a good yank.

At this point you can set the door liner aside. Take a look at the door frame and the general vicinity. If you see any thin felt rings, take them and put them back on the catch pins on the door liner.

You now have to remove a piece of plastic trim which runs from the bottom front edge of the door up to the top of the window frame. Pry out the two plastic pins on the leading edge of the door frame and work this trim piece loose. Take particular care near the door hinge - the trim is split behind the hinge so it can be removed, but it can be easily bent.

Continue working upward, loosening this trim. It will expand out to the grill of the HK tweeter and up into the window frame, where it contains the "anti-trapping" tape-switch (to prevent people from being caught in a closing window). You don't have to remove it completely (and it would be a pain to put it back on) - just release it enough to uncover the HK tweeter. You'll see a 2-pin white cable for the anti-trapping switch there. You should just be able to let this trim piece hang without needing to disconnect the cable.

At this point you need to get into the sound deadening foam glued to the door. This is fragile, gooey, and a general pain. The idea is to undo as little as possible. You'll see a bunch of wires coming out of the bottom of the HK tweeter. Two are for the tweeter; the rest are the mirror controls. These will duck under the sound deadening foam, loop around, and come back out at a lower level. They then run over the front of the foam to a control box near the front of the door, about 2/3 of the way down. That is the mirror control box. Once you have an idea of the scope of the work, carefully peel the foam back without ripping it to expose the mirror cable. The foam is held on with a sticky rubber compound (be careful not to get it on any other parts of the car). Once you have the foam peeled back, you should see the complete path of the mirror wiring harness. Undo the clip holding the mirror harness to the mirror control box and work the cable free. Parts of it will be covered with the rubber goop, and in two places there will be clamps holding it to the door frame. You can repeat the speaker clamp trick with this - your new mirrors come with new clamps pre-attached to the harness.

Now, look at the HK tweeter. You'll see it is held in by a screw at the top and slides onto another screw on the bottom. Remove the top screw and slide the tweeter off. You can just let it dangle - it isn't heavy enough to damage its cable. You will now see two more identical screws below the one you removed (they form a triangle). Support the mirror by reaching out through the open window and remove both screws. You can now work the mirror free. It will probably be stuck to the rubber window gasket, and there is a foam gasket below it. Work it free and gently feed the mirror wiring harness out the hold. Set the mirror aside and unpack your new mirror.

The new mirror also has a foam gasket dangling on the mirror harness. Feed the connector end of the new mirror's harness through the hole in the door and let the harness dangle inside. Position the new foam gasket inside the door frame cavity, taking care to align the holes in the gasket with the mounting holes in the door frame. This will take a couple attempts to get it right. Now, move the new mirror frame up to the door frame and get a feel for how it should attach. Once you have done a few test fittings and have a working plan, support the mirror with one hand while you look through the door frame holes from the inside. You should see the mirror mounting holes lining up with the door frame. Insert one of the 3 mirror mounting screws you removed and tighten loosely. The mirror mounting plate holes are not tapped, so you'll be cutting threads in the casting. When the mirror starts to snug down, stop and repeat with the other two screws. Take a look at the mirror from a number of angles to see how it sits on the rubber gasket at the top of the door as well as at the front of the door and the seam between the lower edge of the mirror bracket and the outside door trim. Wiggle it around to make it look like the other side. You may need to remove it and try again in extreme cases. Pay particular attention to the rubber weatherstripping above the mirror - it flares out near its lower end, but it is easy to bump this and misalign it. Once you have the mirror adjusted properly, tighten the screws all the way (you'll feel a definite increase in resistance once they're fully seated). Check the outside fit and finish one more time. If it is good, remove the top screw, re-attach the HK tweeter, and re-install the screw.

Now, work the mirror harness into the door foam using the same path as the old harness. Once you are sure you have the correct route, pop the clamps into the holes in the door frame and plug the connector into the control unit in the door frame.

At this point, you might want to temporarily install the new window switch on the driver's side and re-connect the battery to test out your new mirror. You can do this with only one side done. Make sure you have full function (normal tilt/pan, folding function, and reverse tilt if you're working on the passenger side).

You now have to make some repairs to the door foam to prevent rattles and leaks. You'll need 3M "Windo Weld" - the TIS calls for 1/4" which is impossible to find around here. I used the next size up (5/16"). This is the rubber goop that holds the foam to the frame. If your car has door/speaker rattles, you'll also want some silicone goop.

First, use the silicone goop (if needed) and put a dollop over the connectors that connect the HK tweeter and the window anti-trapping switch to the door harness (these are under the foam you'll be re-attaching next). Let dry. Take some short pieces of Windo Weld and put them on the door frame at the edges of the foam. Now press the foam down solidly to seat it.

While that is drying, look at your door liner. You'll see that the woofer is held in by 3 Philips screws and the midrange by a threaded collar. Make sure all screws are tight on the woofer and the collar is tight on the midrange. Tighten as necessary. Also, look at the back of the midrange. You'll see a clip that holds the connectors for this speaker. In my car, this is where the HK rattles come from. Save this thought for later.

Now, work the window anti-trapping switch / HK tweeter grill piece back into position. It needs to pop into place around the door frame near the HK tweeter. Make sure you have the anti-trapping switch seated properly as well - you don't want the window to roll up and go "crunch", or worse, "crack". Again, comparing with the other side is very useful. Once you're sure you have the anti-trapping and HK grill parts done, re-position it at the leading edge of the door, again taking care around the hinge area. The edge of this trim will slide under the foam weatherstripping in the middle of the leading edge of the door. Re-insert the two plastic pins (the holes should be well lined up between the trim and the door frame if the trim is properly aligned).

At this point you might want to make sure your window still operates properly. In any event, if you re-connected the battery you'll want to disconnect it again now - you'll be pounding on the door near the airbag shortly.

You are now ready to re-attach the door liner. Make sure everything else is done properly first - you don't want to go back in here if you don't have to. Plug in the woofer cable, then the midrange cable. Tap the speaker cable clamp back into the hole in the door liner that it came out of. Drop another blob of silicone on the back of the midrange, getting both halves of the connector, the bracket, and the back of the tweeter. Support the door panel on something (I used a 5 gallon bucket) to let the silicone set up for a bit.

Once the silicone is set, re-attach the door latch to the door liner and make sure the clip catches. Carefully align the door liner with the door locking pin. Now wiggle the door liner up and down and left and right until the rectangular clips at the top of the door frame line up, and tap the door back onto the clips. You now have to align the many round pins sticking out of the door liner with the matching holes in the door frame. I found it useful to lie on the garage floor, looking upward, with a flashlight and a dental pick to move the pins around as needed. When they are all aligned, pop the door liner back onto the door frame (I used the palm of my hand). Check for fit & finish all around - if there is a bulge between the edge of the liner and the door frame, you either have a misaligned pin or one that isn't popped back in. Repeat as neccessary.

Re-install the Torx screws (in the armrest and under the trim to the rear of the handle). Remember, the longest one goes near the door handle. Again, if you did this right these should all line up.

Re-install the window switch (driver's side) or filler (passenger's side), the two covers under the armrest, and the wood or plastic trim.

Re-install the painted mirror housing, again being careful of the 4 clips. Make sure the clips are completely engaged before the next step.

Re-install the mirror glass, being sure to re-connect the heater wires.

Repeat on the other side.

When you are done, you will need to re-set your mirror memory.
 
#63 · (Edited)
I solved it. It was in front of my face the whole time. It has nothing do with Mirror memory or type of switch or what ECU you have.
I did some more anoraking again tonight on REALOEM and the BMW ETK codes and founf this out;

If your BMW has a production date of 3/2003 or later then your Parts Numbers for the FOLD IN MIRROR is as follows

FOR VEHICLES WITH FOLD-IN OUTSIDE MIRROR
02 HEATED OUTSIDE MIRROR, MEMORY BUS, LEFT 1 FROM 03/2003 51167153087 $282.35
02 HEATED OUTSIDE MIRROR, MEMORY BUS, RIGHT 1 FROM 03/2003 51167153088 $282.35

These mirrors are indeed different than pre 3/2003 ones. I assume this difference refers to the "ribbon".

Post 2003 E46 BMWs w/ memory also do not have the Glove Box ECU or the In-Door Memory ECU. This has to do with the ribbons on post 3/2003
which should go somewhere that I haven't figured out yet.

The switches from 1998 to 2005 all share the same parts numbers and should be the same. If your Power Fold Mirrors have memory then the back is purple is your Power Fold Mirrors do not have memory then the back of the switch is yellow and there is an extra pin input for the folding function. If you have the normal ass boring USA-spec non-Power Fold Mirrors the your switch will have a Turquiose back.

That said, it is far easier to modify pre-3/2003 E46s than post ones.
 
#65 ·
The module above is not fitted on cars arround 2005 with mirror memory, I know because I have that car and had all the door off and have the BMW wiring diagrams and it is not there. As said before, cars with ribbon type memory mirrors, the fold part of the system is built in to the mirror motor its self so if retro fitting folding mirrors on this type of vehicle, if keeping total OEM, you must fit folding mirrors, with memory, OEM type. Then the Purple backed adjust switch. There is no wiring on the vehicle for folding mirrors and none is require. Just fit the above parts and have the vehicle coded.
 
#68 · (Edited)
Is the 12 pin the ribbon or not?
When you guys say ribbon are you just refering to the cable that goes from the mirror to the switch? or another cable?

By the way I did a search on this forums and found this old DIY a couple of pages back that seem to clear up a few mysteries concerning the switches and wiring;

Part 1

I told everyone I would get around to it, and well I finally have, so here it is. OEM way of autofolding mirrors with Reverse Tilt. I am sure this retrofit is possible for 6 pin mirrors as well just probably a slightly different wiring configuration.

1 - A set of Autofolding mirrors (This DIY is for 12 pin mirrors)
1 - Autfolding switch (6 pin) - P/N # 61316901383
2 - Memory Modules - P/N # 61356916054 (You need 2 of these , and they run around $60-70 each)
12 - Pinouts for the 12 pin plugs - P/N # 61130006663
2 - 12 pin plugs - Consists of 2 - P/N# 61131383650, and 2 - P/N# 61131383736
6 - Door Harness male pinouts - P/N # 61130006664
1 - Fuse connector - P/N# 61138377731
3 - Ground and K-bus connectors - P/N # 61131387144
5 - t-taps
1 - 5 Amp fuse
Assortment of different colored 6 gauge wiring









Old Switch:





New Switch:





Tools need:

Wire crimpers/soldering iron
1/4" Drive Ratchet with 8mm socket
Philips Head Screwdriver
Assortment of Torx Bits

Step 1:

Disconnect the battery

Step 2:

Remove Front the door panels, instrument clustor, knee bolster, and hood release lever trim panel.



Remove these 2 top torx bolts to remove clustor:



Step 3:

Working at the drivers side start but disconnecting the door harness, this is accomplished by removing the one 8mm bolt securing the rubber gasket for the harness. Once removed, tilt back and remove just enough to lift p the locking mchanism that secures the 2 connectors together (Similar to the seat connectors)









Step 4:

Next what I did was installed 3 male pins P/N # 61130006664 into vacant slots Pins 23, 24, and 25 (Behind the hood release panel)

Pin 23 <---> Run wire Fuse positon 57
Pin 24 <---> Run wire to Pinout 14 at the Instrument Clustor and tap pinout 14 (Red/White/Yellow wire this is the K-bus signal)
Pin 25 <---> Ground

and installed on the female side 3 pins (The harness that comes from the door) P/N # 61130006663 to pins 23, 24, and 25 at the door harness itelf

Pin 23 <---> Pin 1 @ White Plug
Pin 24 <---> Pin 2 @ White Plug
Pin 25 <---> Pns 7 and 8 @ White Plug

Before I go any further here's a breif schematic of how the memory module is setup:

To the White plug on the module:

Switch <---> White Module

Pin 2 <---> Pin 4
Pin 3 <---> Pin 11
Pin 4 <---> Pin 10
Pin 1 <---> Pin 5

Ground Pins 7, and 8 on the white plug (What I did was spliced them together and connected them to Pin 25 on the door harness connector, then I grounded the interior door harness connector at Pin 25

Door Harness Connector <---> White Module (Drivers Side Memory Module)

Pin 23 <---> Pin 1 (12V from Fuse 57 (5 amp fuse)
Pin 24 <---> Pin 2 (K-bus signal)

To Black plug on the module:

Just connect the 12 pin harness from the mirror to the black plug on the module.

Step 5:

In order for the car to distinguish what signals what, I decided to it was best to disconnect all 6 pins at the switch that went to the door harness. Now since the new autofolding switch only uses 4 pins I simply tapped 4 of the wires at the switch and ran my new wires like I mentioned above.

Switch <---> White Module

Pin 2 <---> Pin 4
Pin 3 <---> Pin 11
Pin 4 <---> Pin 10
Pin 1 <---> Pin 5

I taped off the ones I disconnected and tucked them away.













K-Bus Signal @ Clustor:
Part 2


Running wires through rubber boots and installing pins:









Pins 23 - 25 installed:





Grounding Pin 25 here under carpet:



Getting ready to plug harness back together:



Plug in Both 12 pin Plugs to Drivers Side Module:



Step 6:

Remove Glovebox (Only held in by 6 philips head screws)



Step 7:

After doing the drivers side, the passengers side will be much easier, once again remove the 8mm bolts and the trim panel that covers the harness in the cabin.

Once you have both ends of the harness exposed, the wiring goes as follows:

From Door Harness <---> White Plug (Memory Module Pass Side)

Pin 23 <---> Pin 1 (12V from Fuse 57 (5 amp fuse)
Pin 24 <---> Pin 2 (K-bus signal)
Pin 25 <---> Pin 7 ONLY Ground

From the body harness on the interior:

Pin 23 <---> Run to Fuse Position 57 and splice with wire ran from drivers side
Pin 24 <---> Run to K-bus terminal behind glovebox
Pin 25 <---> Ground







Running wires of Passenger Side Door:



12 pin Plug Completed on Passenger Side:



Step 8:

Working at the fuse panel:

Connect wires you ran from the passenger and drivers side, splice together and connect to Fuse 57 using this connector:



Notice F57 is Vacant:



Now it's not:




Now Connect the K-bus wire for the Passenger side on top of the fuse panel were the K-bus terminal is located (All the Red/White/Yellow dotted thin 18 guage wires).


Step 9:

Clean up and assemble everything back together, everything is the reverse of removal.


I know it seems a bit confusing but it's really simple, and now you will have Reverse Tilt Functions as well as Autofolding mirrors. Anyways enjoy!

And Heres a small video I made of the autofolding in action:



Jared
 
#79 ·
I believe the original poster is using the Ribbon-based post 3/2003 motor on a pre 3/2003 pin type Aftermarket housing. So he is finding it difficult to fit the ribbon type connector into his car, basically the reverse of your problem.

I suggest you two swap motors his ribbon motor for your 12 pin motor and both of you will be happy.

:str8pimpi
 
#81 ·
I put my stock ribbon motors in the aftermarket folding mirrors. There is no known way to adapt 6 or 12 pin mirrors to the ribbon mirror cars, which I have.
It won't matter if they are aftermarket or stock as either one just has a 12 volt motor to fold with. It is the mirror adjust motor that has all of the special electronics in it.
The question has always been where do you connect this fold motor to on the ribbon mirror cars. I believe we have answered it(into the ribbon mirror adjust motor). I just need to try and have it coded.

As far as 12 pin cars, the thread by Ivegotissues666 covered it very well. I read that a few times while trying to figure this out.

Freedom1, last time I checked no one made aftermarket autofold mirrors for the ribbon cars. There are a few threads about how to install your stock motors, but it is not a direct bolt in. If your not comfortable with DIY projects I wouldn't take this one on. If you do decide to, feel free to email me. I can give you some advise and pics on the swap.

Will
 
#85 · (Edited)
I found this interesting...

here is a quick DIY :)

here is how to hook up a SPDT relay to activate your mirrors. i used my door locks as the trigger. the trigger will be something which will go from 0v to 12V when you lock or unlock your car. this trigger will be used to fold up or fold down your mirrors. this DIY is intended to help guide you. i dont take any responsibilty if your car goes Kaboom. :thumbsup: please read it, understand it and ask any questions if your confused. now lets begin.

1) remove your dirver side door panel. tap into the door lock connector wire loom on the driver side door. this wire loom runs directly in the middle of the door right under the black foam cover. the wire loom has 10wires. you only need 2 of these wires as triggers. white wire is trigger for door lock. blue wire is trigger for door unlock. tap into these wires and then double check with a volt meter. verify that each wires goes from 0V to 12V as you lock or unlock the doors. white wires goes from 0v to 12v and back to 0v when doors are locked. blue wires goes from 0v to 2v and back to 0v when doors are unlocked.


2) now lets put some protection diodes inline with each trigger wire. these are required because each trigger wire will actually be going to one relay input. so.. when one is at 12V the other will be at 0V. to isolate these, a diode is used. just make sure that the cathod side is the side thats closest to the relay. the anode side connects dirrectly to your trigger wires. these diodes only allow current flow in one direction.




3) here is what a SPDT relay looks like from the back.



4) you can wire your SPDT like this.
pin 85 - trigger from door lock (white wire, blue wire. both with isolation diodes)
pin 86 - ground
pin 30 - goes to pin 2 on your auto fold mirror switch (0v from car which is ground and can be connected with pin 86 of relay)
pin 87 - goes to pin 4 on your auto fold mirror switch (5v from car)
pin 87a - this pin is not used. its the position the relay stays in when not in use (not energized)


5) when the relay is OFF (pin 85 is 0v when off), pin 87a contacts with pin 30. pin 87a is normally closed with pin 30.

Relay OFF



6) when the relay is ON(pin 85 is 12v when on), pin 87 contacts with pin 30. this will close pin2 and pin4 of the euro switch closed.

Relay ON



7) pics of the euro mirror switch




8) when your door locks or unlocks (pin 85 will go to 12v for 1sec and then back to 0v), the trigger will go to 12V and energize the coil and close the relay. this will close the circuit to make pin 87 contact with pin 30. in effect, this will short pin 2 and pin 4 of your auto fold mirror switch.



so basicly.. your using the SPDT relay to short pins 2 and 4 of your euro mirror switch. these only will short together when the trigger goes to 12v on pin 85 on the SPDT relay. note that the trigger which you use on pin 85 should only go to 12v and then returns to 0v. it does that every time you lock your car. it does it again when you unlock your car. if pin 85 is held constant to 12v, it only moves the relay to the other position once each time you lock or unlock your car. so.. that means that the mirror will fold up when you lock and fold down when you unlock. the important thing is to find the proper 12v during the lock mode and also during the unlock mode. also, it may be wise to put some type of protection diode on pin 85 for each trigger. if both triggers are used on pin 85, if one goes to 12v the other will be at 0v.. so yes.. an isolation diode is a must.
here are some pics to help out with the DIY :) also.. the blue wire used for the unlock trigger is actually greenish.. but it kinda looks blue.




 
#83 ·
lol.
The basics of the thread is to fit a ribon type motor, that has the fold output on to 12 pin type mirrors. The theroy should work as the fold motor is just a motor on ribbon type and 12 pin type. The issue is getting the ribbon type mirror putting the power out. We are thinking that once the car is coded, fitted with the correct adjust switch, the mirror motor will put out the 12v when requested to. If it does, then it is possibly to fit ribbon mirror motors with auto fold, to be fitted on any auto fold base. That could be 12 pin or even M3!
 
#86 ·
Quick question about the Power Fold Mirrors without the ribbon.
Do both Memory and Non Memory Power Folding mirror come with the same wire connector that goes into the door module.

Power Fold (assuming this picture shows the version without memory); But where does the extra pin wire go? assuming you have the mirror module in your door already and all your module holes are filled.



Manual Fold (I'm also assuming this picture shows the version without memory)
 
#88 · (Edited)
Okay I have a 6/2001 E46 Sedan that originally came with Memory and 12 pin Manual Folding mirrors.

According to TMK, who modified his 9/2002 E46 Wagon that originally came with Memory and 12 pin Manual Folding Mirrors, he just needed the two R and L Folding Mirror Units and the European Power Folding Mirror Control Switch. In his DIY he didn't say there was an extra module needed. REALOEM also doesn't have an ECU module listed for the 1998 to 3/2003 E46 that come w/ Memory.
So I assume all pre 3/2003 E46 that came with memory seats already have the module in the door that supports both Memory and Folding.

When you say I need this ECU glovebox module for the folding feature are you assuming that my car doesn't have Memory? Since it seems that only cars that didn't have Memory would need the extra ECU glovebox module to compensate for the folding feature.

So going by this you would say these statements are true;

Statement A. If my pre 3/2003 E46 came with memory and 12 pin memory manual folding mirrors and Non-Power Folding Mirror Control Switch w/ MEMORY (turquiose back), then my E46 already has the R and L Memory Module inside the doors that supports the Power Folding motor. So to get MEMORY Power Folding all I need are;
1. R and L MEMORY Power Folding Mirror Units
2. European Power Folding Mirror Control Switch w/ MEMORY (purple back)

Statement B. If my pre 3/2003 E46 did NOT come with memory and ONLY came with the 6 pin NON-MEMORY manual folding mirrors and NON-MEMORY, Non-Power Folding, Mirror Control Switch (black back), then my E46 does not have a Memory Module. So to get NON-MEMORY Power Folding I would need;
1. R and L NON-MEMORY Power Folding Units
2. NON-MEMORY European Power Folding Mirror Control Switch (yellow back)
3. The ECU (Power Folding Mirror) Control Module that goes behind the glovebox.
4. AND I would have to get this ECU Control Module programmed at the dealership.

Statement C. If my pre 3/2003 E46 did NOT come with memory and ONLY came with the 6 pin NON-MEMORY manual folding mirrors and NON-MEMORY, Non-Power Folding, Mirror Control Switch (black back), then my E46 does not have a Memory Module. So to get MEMORY Power Folding I would need;
1. R and L MEMORY Power Folding Units
2. European Power Folding Mirror Control Switch w/ MEMORY (purple back)
3. The R and L MEMORY Modules that goes inside the doors
4. AND I would have to get the MEMORY Modules programmed at the dealership.

Here are some pictures for reference

If your pre-3/2003 E46 BMW has NO Memory and Manual Folding Mirrors. This is ALL you will find on your car for Mirror Control;



And If you want to upgrade your Non-Memory/Manual Folding Mirrors to Non-Memory/Power Folding Mirrors then you need to buy Non-Memory type/Power Folding Mirrors and these things then you will have to get your car programmed at the dealership;
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But if you want to upgrade your Non-Memory/Manual Folding Mirrors to Memory Power Folding Mirrors then you need to buy the Memory Power Folding Mirrors (even if they are Aftermarket M3-Spec) and these things and you may need do a 6 pin to 12 pin conversion and/or get your car programmed at the dealership;
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two of these needed; one for each door.



If your pre-3/2003 E46 BMW has Memory and Manual Folding Mirrors then these are what should be on your car;
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or it may be more of a lighter turquiose color




And if you want to upgrade from your Memory Manual Fold Mirrors to Memory Power Folding Mirrors then you simply need the Memory Power Folding Mirrors and this switch. Everything will be plug and play.
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#89 ·
So I paid my car a visit today after work and decide to open some cavities up to see what I have and test my theory.
As you all know I have 2001 330i Sedan wth Memory and Manual Folding Mirrors and I intend to upgrade to the power folding mirrors.

My Car:


My Memory Seat Buttons:


My Door Panel Mirror Adjust Switch (just pry the top and botton end with a butter knife and it easily pops off):



The underside of the switch revealing that it is indeed the blue/turquiose color that it should be to indicate I have a manual folding memory set up:


So that means I have the correct switch and also the in-door Mirror Memory Modules already so I would only need to buy the Power Fold Switch and the R and L power Fold Mirror Units.
 
#93 · (Edited)
Only the M3 Spec mirrors. There is a DIYs from the UK where someone swapped the motors between M3 Spec mirrors to make the unit compatible between post-3/2003 ribbon & pre-3/2003 12 pin wiring on the car.

Also JDM/Honda/Acura makes aftermarket motors where you can just buy the motor unit and switch, but those I've only seen sold in Asia.
 
#96 ·
Your car is having a better Christmas than my car. My car is getting a tank of gas and a hand wash.

My only Christmas plans are the power fold mirror upgrade-which won't probably happen until next year, new rubber OEM mats and the OEM Alarm installation.

I wanted to get new rims, but i'm still indecisive and my money is tied up on getting X-mas stuff for family.
 
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